Or, what happens when you drink and DON'T drive.. *
Yay! So we do a yard sale today, and invite a friend and his wife over to sell some of their stuff so we have more stuff to offer. Friend's wife leaves after awhile, friend stays behind. No more than about ten or twenty bucks in sales between us for the whole day. We go to wrap things up and drive my friend home, which my fiance does because I had had a few beers, and as she's pulling out of his yard, she hangs my '86 up on a stump that rips the exhaust apart at my little patch from last November. (at the end of the Y-pipe, before the catalytic's old location)
My '86 now has that complete beater sound to it.. and I have to find a way to fix it, and soon. Thinking of ripping the fake-dual exhaust off the '88 and using it, or running a pair of 2" pipes and cheap turbo lers with exits in front of the rear tires.
* This does not mean I, in any way, endorse drinking and driving. If you drink and drive, you deserve whatever consequence may befall you.. whether it means ending up half-dead in a ditch or facing the murder trial of some family you slide into.. or whatever. If you make it home without incident, you should not consider it a sign that it's OK to do so again.. you just got lucky.
Anyway.. looks like it's time to do a little junkyard/cheap-shiznit tinkering with the '86. 5.0 CFI TB, cheap dual exhaust, maybe that dual-snorkel air cleaner, etc.
OK, this is one I need a quick answer on, since we've got the cars in the air and everything..
Should the H-pipe from the LSC bolt up to the exhaust manifolds on the V6? I'm thinking no, since it has the factory headers and all, (the LSC) but I can't seem to convince my friend here that we shouldn't trash the LSC's exhaust to get my '86 back on the road again.
Nope, it won't. Will bolt up to V6 headers with some caressing, but not manny-folds.
Here's a pic of the damage, so far. There are also a few dents on the underside, the ler has been damaged, and the e-brake cable/rod that crosses under the driveshaft has been bent up.
Hah.. we rigged up a new exhaust with 2 1/2" pipe, thanks to an adapter. Got a cherry bomb turbo ler on there, a few pieces of straight pipe, a 90 degree bend, and a turndown that's just behind the passenger door. It's a lot more solid than it sounds.. but I need to unbolt a couple of the clamps again, and turn them 90 degrees so the tips don't hang down.
With the windows up, it also does not sound any louder to me than it used to, inside the car.. but we've only run it at idle for a moment to test it.
Sounds like the exhaust on my first car, except X2 - It was a '78 Trans Am, the Y-pipe had rotted, so I made up a dual exhaust out of various bits and pieces and a pair of cherry bombs. It exited jjst ahead of each rear wheel. Sounded pretty mean, too :D
OK, the whole exhaust cost us just under $70, but it's on.
Even though there's only one new hanger, and the only other support is the two bolts into the on the back of the Y-pipe, there's less than a quarter inch of play with the ler. It's surprisingly solid.. especially for exhaust built entirely out of slip-fit connections and clamps.
Next I'm going to take those two rear clamps and spin them 90 degrees so the bolts don't hang. I'm also going to spin the turndown up a little bit, and try to bend the pipe a little bit straighter so it doesn't exit so low. It just barely ses when I come into the driveway, and that's a drop of at least 3 inches.
We got the old tailpipe out with a pipe cut on the ascending leg over the axle.. so I can put it back together with a simple slip fitting and a couple pipe clamps, and use it on another car or whatever.
It's noticeably louder, but not obnoxiously so. I manually shifted it on the test drive to hold it in low gear as much as possible to make as much racket as I could, and it was fine. There's a lot more popping as you let off the pedal, though.. and it now finally competes with the obnoxious roar of that oversized flex fan, at higher revs.. but I don't think it's going to piss anyone off. Not bad for a bunch of 2' pipe sections and a 14" long cherry bomb turbo.
EDIT: http://www.supremeperformance.com/DisplayPart.aspx?pid=222 That's the one. Nothing special. $25 and change at AutoHole.
thats funny.... cause thats the exact same setup i have on my 87 now....its prolly much louder than yours tho.... but yeah it pops like a mofookieokie doesnt it? grrrrr leaky exhaust
If it's leaks that do that, I may just seal up the joints with Quik-Steel or something. (it worked on the last exhaust patch for several months, until this weekend)
whats your remedy for a whole piece missing outta it?
:hick: :hick: :hick: :hick:
How big a piece?
Oh yeah.. hahahahahaha.. now the car won't start.. sounds like the alt or voltage reg. has finally shiznit the bed on me, from what I'm told. I turn the key to start, my voltmeter pegs to the lowest setting, my radio starts buzzing and loses all its presets, the key chime doubles in speed, and the digi-dash odometer starts spitting out random garbage.
I'm thinking I need to hit up one of these junkyard-search parts services online, to get a price on a 95A alternator from JeremyB's spreadsheet. I'm tired of this . This battery is less than a year old, and it s out regularly. AutoHole wants like $100+ (plus a core, which I would eat because I want to keep the old alt and rebuild it for the practice) for a reman version of this 95A I'm after. UGH.
All that, and I still need to fix the rattle in the front end, and I still need to see a doctor about this AS thing. I've been in pain for almost 3 weeks straight.
id say about a foot or so, enough that the remaning exhaust and the tail pipe assembly arent connected.
2" ID pipe, right?
You can get a 2' section of pipe with either one flared end or two, and just slip-fit it after you trim out the middle of the old pipe, around the break.. that's IF your problem is on a relatively straight section of pipe. You'll need a pair of pipe clamps to match.
If it's on a bend, or some other awkward section, (like when I replaced my main cat with pipe due to a breaking) they sell 18" sections of flexible pipe at AutoHole in several diameters. I bought 2 1/8" ID flex pipe and slipped it over the cleaned-up ends of my old pipe. Then I clamped it down with 2 1/8" pipe clamps on each end, and just to be buttstuff (since this flex pipe is kinda funky) I put a seal at each end of the flex pipe using Quik-Steel. It didn't leak the whole time I had the patch in place, which was from just before Thanksgiving (I think) until this weekend. The flex pipe was starting to rust by this weekend, but it still held up. Should function as a decent patch until you can get a more permanent solution.
that doesnt clear a speed bump does it? it looks real real real low!!
It might, it might not. With the voltage reg dead, I can't take it anywhere to test it. I should be able to go pick up a new reg. this afternoon.
Anyway, I'm about to go out there now, loosen up the two rear clamps before the 90 degree bend, and try to re-position all this so that that pipe sits a little lower and brings up the tip a little higher. Also rotating the clamps 90 degrees so that the bolts sticking down aim sideways instead.
EDIT: Readjusted it. I have just over 3" clearance at the seams of the ler, and I have about 3 3/4" clearance at the tip. (which is the only part that sed when we were coming back into my driveway yesterday, before the reg. died.. there's a significant dropoff into my driveway)
Yay me.. got a new voltage reg. in there, car started right up. Took it for a test drive. Voltmeter pulled a lot stronger toward 14v than it ever has before, but the AMP idiot light was on the entire time. The higher I revved it, the more the AMP light glowed.. but it was showing good voltage the entire time. What gives?
12.76v at the terminals w/o the key on.
12.76v at the terminals w/ the key on, engine running @ idle, everything else off.
"Idiot light" is right.. because I feel like an idiot when it comes on and I have no idea why.
EDIT: Back to the exhaust thing, since this is what started the thread. My tweaking of it worked, because now I can get back into the driveway with no sing at all.
EDIT #2: Took it for another test drive of about 3-5 miles.
12.93v at the terminals w/ the key on, engine running @ idle, everything else off.
12.82v at the terminals w/o the key on.
Still getting the AMP light whenever the engine is running.
Almost looks like I'm talking to myself at this point. I suppose I'm fine, as long as I don't start answering myself! :D
Any-hoo, I decided to loosen up a few more clamps and put a jack underneath one of the shorter pipes, and raise it up until the body *just* started to move, and then tighten the clamps down with a socket and long extension. Got almost another whole inch of clearance that way, and I'm still not smacking floorpan. Although, unfortunately, I'm still getting the oil blowing off the leaky rear main onto the underside of the car, and it's dripping onto the back of the ler. YAY, burning oil stink!
Oh well, I'm just glad to have the exhaust fixed. It still barely ses the largest speed bump I can find, but I think it's now an issue of sag/wear/etc. in the suspension. We noticed that this car sits about an inch lower all around compared to my '88, and the '88 even has several hundred pounds of parts and tools in it. This car also fails the bounce test on the front struts. (we also noticed that the exhaust will hit smaller speed bumps if you go fast enough that the suspension travel smacks the ler into the speed bump on the down stroke)
Still having problems with the idiot light being lit faintly whenever the car's running. Getting voltage readings varying between 12.56v and 12.93v, running or not, every time I come back from another test drive. Don't know what to make of it, but it looks like the car is able to hold some amount of charge now. *shrug*