[FONT="Arial"][SIZE="2"][/SIZE][/FONT]I'm doing a chassis restoration on my '87 T-bird and looking for some subframes.
I've heard you can use Mustang frame connectors, if so;
Will Edelbrock Subframe #5291 fit on T-bird/Cougar?
Thanks!
T-Birds and Cougars don't need Mustang subframe connectors. It's a flat plane between the front and rear frame rails, and you can use rectangular tubing (I think it was 1" X 2" but not sure). The seat-support-cross-brace thingies aren't difficult to make either (Chuck W used to sell some I think, but not sure if he still does)
I used 2x2 and 1x1 for mine. cost about $70 to make
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/IMG_3556_1.jpg)
EDIT:
Yes, welding skills are a must if you make them yourself
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=122_124_234
Ive always had good luck with this company and their products. ( I cant weld)
I'd think Mustang connectors would be too short.
I copied this from Erics site, I wonder if you called Maxmotorsports if they could advise you?
Subframe Connectors
The steel bars known as subframe connectors are excellent for helping to keep your underside together. They connect the points in the unibody "framerail" that are severed in production. Weld-on types are the most effective (while also being race-legal) and should be the only types considered. Bolt-ons will only create elongated holes with time. Maximum Motorsports makes subframe connectors for the Fox Thunderbird/Cougar. People have also reported that Mustang units do indeed fit on the Fox Cougar, so you can probably use these as well. Or you can have custom pieces made for relatively cheap. After installation, you'll have to paint up all the welds so they don't rust.
I used the cheap Summit Mustang ones, but they needed to be bent a little straighter than how they came.
No need to buy Mustang SFCs, since they don't work properly on the Tbirds/Cougars anyway. Buy 10-12' of steel ($30-40) and make your own.
Is it "really" beneficial to do the seat crossbrace piece? Or just weld up the 2 subframes?
i have a set of kenny brown subfame conecters in my 87 5.0 tbird. they are longer than mustang ones and straighter. what kind did you want to do weld in or bolt in? its better to go with weld in but u have to have a drive on lift or a pit to use to put them on or you will weld in a twist. i wouldnt see any reason not to make them your self and the seat brace is there to get rid of flex by tieing into more parts of the car. if you did ones without seat bracese it would still flex a bit but not as much
Those are the nicest looking connectors Ive seen any chance of a set of plans? to copy those? :hick:
You'll have to cut the floor in the rear
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/secret%20plans/IMG_3944.jpg)
here's a pic while I was putting the fuel lines in, with Chucks seat supports
(http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy121/daminc-pics/puttin%20it%20back%20together/IMG_0087.jpg)
No, the KB ones are not longer than the Mustang ones. How do I know? I initiated the production of them, and I was limited on length by the racks we sent parts to the platers with. They are straight pieces of steel though, with no bends like the Mustang ones. If I'd had my way, they would've been at least 5' long, instead of 4'.
On the seat brace, fab something up. It's beneficial.
I see a on the back end that's not in the drawing is it self explanatory when mocking it up? And Chuck do you still make the seat reinforcements at 6'6" 310 lbs I'm gonna need help with the floor someday?
Thanks Again
they should have been longer i totaly agree and when i bought mine the guy had a set of mustang ones laying beside the tbird ones there idk what style stang or the brand of the conectors were but mine were like 3 inches longer i didnt ask questions i just got mine and left for all i know they could have been custom because they were blue so idk haha
If you do not want to fabricate a set I would recommend Global West's subframes. I have them on my 83 and the fit and finish was and still is very good. They are a full length subframe and the driver's side even has the bracket to relocate the e-brake cable. I also used their seat reinforcement for the Fox Mustang and it worked like a champ. The subframes on are this page (P/N 918):
http://www.globalwest.net/1980-88thunderbird.html
and the seat reinforcements are on this page (P/N 920):
http://www.globalwest.net/1979-93mustang.html
Darren
I'm so Confused I like the heavy duty ones but the lazy side of says get the global west one's. Whats the odds of twisting the car with slicks and 400 hp + 175 nitrous shot at the track withe the Global connectors?
How did you do that without modifying them? The seat studs on the TBirds are spaced at least 2" wider than those of the Mustangs.
I wonder what the weight difference is between the Global West connectors and the custom parts by daminc (which I think are works of art BTW). Just a thought since a lot of people are worried about their weight.
Thanks for the catch Chuck. I have them on both cars and yes the ones on the Bird are modified. Had to think about that one for a few as the car is not in the garage. My buddy Mike split them and welded them up to make them work. I had to call him to see if he remembered what he did to make them work and he said it would have been about as hard to make a set as it was to modify the Mustang units. Mike remembered installing the seat brackets before we went to the 1999 Mobil 1 World Ford Challenge. The subframes were installed before that but I could not remember when so I had to take a trip down memory lane otherwise known as the receipt file. I dug up the old receipt from GW and it was from 95 and the subframe connectors were $118 for the pair...I noticed they have gone up a little since then.
If you are really worried about tweaking the chassis then you should look at installing some of the upper subframes. I have the Griggs units on my car but they can be made for a lot less than I paid and I believe there is a thread on it here somewhere. If not here I know there are several on the Mustang websites and the only differece according to the folks at Griggs is that the T-Bird uppers are 2" longer. I patterned everything off of the T-Bird units and made a set for my Coupe and the only thing I did different was make the upper 2" square tube 2" shorter.
Darren