this seems odd:dunce::
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2010-11-24161549.jpg)
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2010-11-24161654.jpg)
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2010-11-24161707.jpg)
This is the PS... DS fits wonderfully.
I'm not to sure how I'm looking at it? If you turn the would it work?
do you know what pie-cutting is? if so, that's your best solution.. even if you cut and rotate the , your exhaust is going to be very close to the unibody.. meaning if the motor shakes at any given time, your exhaust is likely to start bouncing off the unibody and start driving you up the wall with all the banging
do you know what pie-cutting is? if so, that's your best solution.. even if you cut and rotate the , your exhaust is going to be very close to the unibody.. meaning if the motor shakes at any given time, your exhaust is likely to start bouncing off the unibody and start driving you up the wall with all the banging
Thats the ps looking up at it from the ground. Was the best shot i could get.
no I dont know what piecutting is. I was thinking at first of cutting the chassis bit i dont think structural integrity will allow me to do that.
If i can, i want to avoid modifying the header too. If i cant get tgese to fit reasonably then im just going to go with a set of LT's. I planned on them anyway, i just have had these lying around forever and decided to see if they would work.
basically, you're cutting a piece out of the tube like you're cutting a piece of pie, in order to change the angle and weld it back together.. annnnnnd a paint tutorial.. lol
What were those headers originally made for? It could be that way because the engines in the Fox cars are offset closer to the passenger side for steering shaft clearance.
factory mustang headers. I think it odd just because all headers for 3.8 are made for mustangs and I've read more than once, I think even on CoolCats that if you ditch the column shift you can use mustang headers....
Um, yeah. I figured that was what you meant. Nope, no modifying. I'll just run wide open till I can get my hands on a set of LT's.;)
okay, Im having a brain fart... LTs?
Long tubes I assume.
Yes...LT's being longtubes. I decided not to waste my money on LT's though since I'm going to be going with the turbo setup later on and I have no guarantee of them fitting anyway.
Today I received my 94-98 headers, the same ones as on the 96/97 3.8 Tbirds. These come with 2-1/2" collectors instead of the 1-5/8" collectors on the split port headers above. What's better, they fit like they're supposed too. I don't know why the split port headers are so weird, but they're all like that. These are far superior. Also, they are nowhere near the steering shaft for anyone who was wondering. It looks like it in the picture but they do a great job of purposely dodging it.
Observe:
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2011-03-31194544.jpg)
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2011-03-31194451.jpg)
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2011-03-31170103.jpg)
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n567/sarjxxx/2011-03-31170043.jpg)
Those headers look really nice. They are Mustang ones?
I like them. One problem.......maybe you noticed....each one is missing a tube.
94-98 mustang v6 headers. I did say that in my post lol.
Vincent, if they had another tube I don't think they would fit right:hick:
I suppose so. LOL. I was comparing them to the ones on my car.LOL. I'm glad you got them. Every little bit to help the 3.8. Are you going to get a new cam? I wonder what the cam options are. What's next for the engine?
Nice, so no moding right?
I'm not going to bother camming it until I go the full turbo route. And that's a loooooong way out. What's next for the engine will be to of course finish the exhaust and then a set of roller rockers. At some point in the relatively near future I'm going to attempt a MAF conversion also. I want to get it out of the way since I have to do it for the turbos later and hopefully I can squeeze a few extra horses out of it while still N/A also. Perhaps after that some shiny new valve covers and/or intake and then its going to sit there and look pretty for a few months (years) while I work on getting the rest of the car up to date.
Then I've got the twin turbo setup to figure out. I'm considering c00ching up a TC turbo and setting it for very low boost, (5-8 psi), and running it through there. It is a very cheap way (~$500) for me to have some boosted fun until I can afford to build the engine and get the turbos and everything situated later on for the real project. Of course, I'll probably just let it go N/A until I pull the trigger on the final setup. Idk, it depends on how well I like it after I get it on the road again, and how much money I can afford to throw at it in the next year or so.
I can't believe you're saying that....:beatyoass: lol You know you're gonna love it when you get it back on the road:evilgrin:
Whew, I love my car! Er, my car loves twisty roads! The tires stick great and she's got a great blance in the corners! I really need to get the EFI back on there though, as she only returned about 15MPG for the last week of VERY spirited driving! Of course. If I installed the Wideband, that would probably help by telling me when to keep my foot out of it.
You realize you'll have to build a forged block for twin turbos, right? The max boost you can safely put through the stocker is about 9Psi, and at that you have to make sure the motor is completely at temperature before getting on it.
P.S. I too, thought you would be getting LT's. But I'm glad you found SOMETHING that actually fit.
Ok that's not what I meant LOL! Of course I'm going to love it whenI get back on the road, I just meant how I feel a bout the acceleration, which on the 3.8 is going to be....well ya know..... But we'll see cause it was pretty decent before, so maybe it'll feel good.
Yes, I know I will need a forged block! I wouldn't even put more that 8 psi through the stock motor.
My plan, and this is why this is so far out, is to pick up a stock SC short block (completely rebuilt of course), and install a Split-port top end on it, complete with roller rockers and ported heads and windstar intakes. It will also be receiving a Morana forged 4.2 crank, and a custom cam to help bring out the turbo power. So just building the motor alone, depending on whether or not I do it myself or have my SC building buddy do it, could cost me anywhere from $500-$1500 easy so that's part of why this is for much much later on. Then on top of that I have to buy turbos and have the pipes fabbed since I have neither a welder nor a bending machine.
I have heard that stock 5.0 shorties can be modified to just use the tc turbo's bolted right to them. Looks like yours should be close enough to do the same.
interesting... this could be true, although I think these may be better suited for the project:
(http://images.craigslist.org/3k93m33oc5T25S15R2b3ecba480236f3f1f7b.jpg)
Anyone know if there would be the same problem on an '84 Engine/Bay? (I assume so, But doesn't hurt to ask)
I am 99% sure it would be the same. That is the reason I am trying to give them to you for basically free. The only difference may be that your mounts may be different so it could be slightly different from what I had.
Do you think you still need to ditch the colum shifter with the 94-98 headers?