My power windows weren't working when I bought my car. I figured it was just the plastic pieces inside the motors, but apparently not, neither side will move when I press the switch. I checked the circuit breaker in the fuse box, and it was good. I swapped a known working window motor into the drivers side (havent dissected the pass. side yet but it makes a faint noise) and no movement or noise at all. I am not too sure how to check and see if the switches are getting power or if the fuse in the fusebox is getting power, I guess thats what I should check next?
Is there power at the motor in the door ?Or have you not checked that yet ?
I would check for power in the door when the switch is pressed, then move to the switch it's self if you can't find any power in the door, then move your way to the fuse panel if you can't find power at the switch.
I just double-checked, and it dosen't seem to be getting power. With the key turned on and pressing the window switch - nothing. Gonna check the switches now (which I know have been replaced because I found another switch panel in the trunk) just not sure which pins to check, so I will check them all I guess.
I have 11.20 volts at one pin on the switch, nothing on the rest.
I have my 88 EVTM here it says you should have power at R/LB wire at the switch.
I'm assuming you are working on your Mark VII
Yes you are correct, and that is the wire that is getting the 11.20 volts.
it says to make sure your black wire has a good ground
the actual ground is on the rocker panel driver side under the carpet
So I would have to follow the black wire from the switch to its grounding point?
[SIZE="1"]BTW, if you haven't noticed, I really SUCK at electrical stuff LOL[/SIZE]
Yes , but an easier way to check would be to take a jumper wire and ground the black wire from the switch to some spot under the console, then try your switch to see what happens
I'll wait here :D
oh yeah this too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1987-Ford-Lin-Continental-Mark-VII-EVTM-Diagrams-Manual-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c426fd62bQQitemZ190093186603QQptZMotorsQ5fManualsQ5fLiterature
Ok, grounded out both black wires on the drivers side switch, nothing. When I press and hold the switch for the passengers side with the key 'ON" all the warning lights that come on will dim, this does not happen with the drivers side when I hold it down.
And you did try the drivers switch in both positions ?
Both key positions? No
No,,, I mean up and down
Oh, duh, yeah I did that as well. Maybe I need to start tracing the wiring back from the motor connections to see if there is a break/cut ?
While you have the black wires grounded check the other wires on the switch to see if they are getting power while you move the switch up and down that will verify if the switch is good
Do that for both switches before you start to go else where
Going to check that right now (there are 2 black wires on each switch, should I ground both at the same time?)
I'm pretty confident the pass. side switch is good, I can hear the motor wanting to turn, it's prob. got bad brushes.
Yes ground them both, the switch should send power where it needs to go ...and I DO have switches that I can hook you up with if yours is in fact bad :D
And You are probably on track with the passenger side .
here's a silly question.. are you pressing the switch while checking the other wires for voltage?
that's why i asked LOL have to do the same when checking power at the motor
Yea, I had my son pressing the switch LOL
Alright, I grounded both wires on the drivers window switch, put a meter to all but the black wires, and the only one that had any voltage was the red/light blue that had voltage before. Did the same with the passenger side (excpept without the grounding) and the other 3 wires (other than the red/lb one was yellow, and one was solid red, I beleive) all had voltage while pressing the switch. I think I'm good on the pass. side, other than needing a new motor. I'm beginning to think that power is getting to the driver's side switch, and stopping there.
Sounds like you have a bad switch on the drivers side and motor issues on the passenger side,
I would like you to try one more thing please
Swap the switches and see what you have on the drivers side .
I'll wait right here again
I will do it. May take me a minute so hold on...
Wouldn't I have to swap wires from one to another since they are both connected to the same harness?
no the switch just pops out
hang on ill snap a pic of one
the switch panel in your trunk may have been a replacement for the 1 currently in the car
Oh, Ok I see, give me a few minutes, I'll let you know
Ok, swapped switches, on the drivers side, I had power to the red/lb wire(constant) and while switching I had power to the other two wires, And to the window motor connector, but still no motor movement, so I'm thinking I have 2 bad motors and one bad switch.
It appears that way , see now that wasn't so hard :D
I'll get you a switch in the mail early this week ;)
No, I just needed some direction LOL I usually do when it comes to electrical . Thanks for the help man, really. Now I just need to get the window back on its track.....:punchballs:
Anybody know what years/model window motors will work? I know some towncars will work, but not sure about any others. Motorcraft shows different part numbers for most of the ford/lincoln/mercury cars (Motorcraft P/N's on the rockauto site) They always look the same to me LOL I am hoping ones from an MN-12 will fit as there is an infestation of them at the local junkyard.
From 1973 to 1989 are mostly the same ( 87 /88 birds are an exception i know for sure )
Check Oreillyautoparts.com
You can look up your parts then they have a compatibility button you can click . it shows 677 Fords ,209 Mercurys, and 56 Lincolns :D
I do think the A1 cardone listing is reversed, but don't quote me on that
Cool, looks like I could grab one out of an '80's grand marquis/crown vic/towncar. They have plenty of those as well.
You should have no trouble at all ;)
Hopefully I can find something with the holes already drilled out. My dewalt ped out on me the other day.
this must be dewalt fail month.. my dewalt cordless sawzall took a dump on me today
Mine is just my (only :punchballs: ) battery - but those aren't cheap either. I hate using sawzalls, I use them a lot at work, and they about vibrate my arm off, but they are useful as hell, especially battery powered
mine is the trigger.. took it apart and thought i had it fixed.. got half way through cutting my exhaust off and it broke again.. want to buy a couple good batteries and a charger? :D hahahah
When my sawzall broke, I finished cutting my exhaust off with a hacksaw....... Dedication....LOL
that would be an option.. if i had 1 here at home LOL most of my tools are at the shop, 5 miles away
A hacksaw and a new blade cuts pretty quick through exhaust pipe.
one word.........
Lenox
you can cut a car in half in about 10min.
your gonna pay for them blades but you wont run them out of teeth any time soon...unless your cutting stainless.