The machine shop gave me a call the other day to let me know that my engine is ready. Now I just got to find the spare time to get it swapped in.
Glad to hear it,but,how about a few more engine details....what was done? What is going to be done? Pics.....you know,the regular required stuff.Inquiring minds want to know.
No Vinnie...inquiring minds NEED to know! lol
C'mon man, we're like vultures...we feed off of this stuff...details, details, details!!!
Good luck!
-Don
And make sure you smooth the mold lines off everything for Vinnie.. lol
Or he'll loose sleep over it..
Hell with the details...pics or ban lol :hick:
Sorry for leaving you guys dangling. It's going to be a stock H.O. 5.0 with some porting and polishing to the E7 heads. I've got some Flowtech shorty headers. I'm going to have x pipe duals run with American Thunder cat backs. I'm going to be running stock 19lb injectors. I have already replaced the fuel pump with a BBK high volume 150lph pump. I'm also going to try using some of those new E3 spark plugs (don't know if any of you guys have tried those yet). I'll try to get some pics this week but it may be next weekend before I'm able to get around to doing the swap.
i'm using them in my 306.. i've heard a lot of good things about them.. supposedly, they perform better than most plugs with an upgraded ignition setup and MSD's
So,I lose a little sleep.........what about it?LOL.
About to take off to my buddy's house to start removing the S.O. engine. Pics coming soon!
Good luck.Work smart,and we'll be waiting for the pics.
All right I'm back from my buddy's house and it was slow going. We spent about four hours on it. I thought that we would be a little further along. We had some trouble spots where we couldn't reach certain bolt or they would be seized up. But I guess these are things to be expected.
Here some more pics.
cool.... BTW...Are those sandals steel toed? lol
Yea. it's amazing how a couple stubborn bolts will halt progress. I pretty much cut my motors out of the cars because of rusted bolts..
mandles!!! lol 4 hours and the upper is still on? holy jiminy crickets!
There will be cutting today. I had to go purchase some sawsall blades last night. I also bought some ratcheting wrenches that I think will really speed things up.
Spray everything down with penetrating oil a while before you start to work.Give the bolts a chance to soak a little up where they may be a little stuck or rusted. Watch where your fasteners go so you can re-install them if necessary. What are you cutting with a sawsall? I can only think exhaust.Are you keeping the a/c? if not,think twice before you get rid of those parts.I made the best decision ever for the Sport by re-installing it all. Good luck with the swap.
I cut my motor mounts off both cars (so far), exhaust, hoses, lines. Buffalo isn't real user friendly for bolt removal. Just make sure you can replace whatever you cut....
100% true. Luckily around here,rusty bolts isn't an issue. But some parts are specific to our cars,like the motor mounts.If you kill them,make sure you can replace them.I have a set of the 5.0 mounts for our cars (ours are different than the Stang) with new cushions about to hit the classifieds soon. remember that as a "just in case". Also,make sure you have everything you need for the swap...fluids,exhaust parts,gaskets,computer to run it all,etc.Your new timing chain IS a double roller......right?
those things are like god's greatest gift to man, aside from the cars we use them on :D
I do not use them much. I do not own a set in any size.
Don't forget the tunes and beverages...I prefer dr pepper, or tea when I'm tired of eating a sandwich every third can.
When I yanked mine, I'd already hauled out the aod and had a T5 in there, so when it came time for the SO to come out, they came together, in fact, just the first of the week, that's how I pulled the HO..with the T5 on still. Easier, but if you're staying auto, may be easier to leave it in.
Looks like you got a concrete floor to work on...lucky ass ;):bowdown::rollin:
You'll enjoy the HO stuff, and as Vinnie said, get a true double roller timing set, they cost more, but they're stronger, and last longer, and I'll also agree with his advice about the AC stuff. If mine wasn't the EATC setup, I would've left it in, but I was going to manual, and the engine I dropped in didn't have a compressor.
Oh, more pics or we'll all sneak in and hide your new wrenches lol
hide? i was going to take them so i have a set for home and the shop :D
Sounds like you might like doing some stuff the hard way..... MAybe it's time to grab some?? :hick: Ratcheting wrenches are the shiznit. I have a ton of them and use them almost more than a ratchet/socket set.
Alright guys we got a few things done today, but we were limited on time due to my little girl's birthday party. We have everything unhooked from the old engine and is ready to pull. We also went and picked up my new engine from the machine shop and went and borrowed a cherry picker from a friend.
We stopped and picked up a new water pump and an accessory for the cherry picker. We got part of the exhaust cut away because the nuts wouldn't break loose from the manifolds. I also talked my buddy into retiring the flip flops.
We got the engine stand put together and was going to unload the new engine onto the stand but.... we didn't have bolts long enough to run through the engine stand supports and into the engine. So we had to leave it hooked to the cherry picker. It will probably be Monday before we get anymore work done.
Great start.You should have it all done soon. Remember,the firing order is the 351W order,and,reverse rotation.
O.K. I knew about the different firing order but I didn't realize that it was in reverse rotation.
I purchased a Chilton's 79'-93' Mustang manual to use for setting the timing and stuff.
I used my T5 bellhousing-to-engine bolts, they're longer than the aod's bolts...depends on how thick the arms on your engine stand are mostly. You may try using main bolts (obviously not ones you'd want to use in an engine again) but my engine stand wasn't thick enough, they had too much shank for me to use.
Lookin' like a good start! Keep the pics comin' in lol
To answer some questions. I don't know if the machine shop installed a double roller timing chain or not, but I'm thinking yes. I have brand new motor mounts if you look at one of the first pics that I posted you will see them in between the valve covers and the headers. We are going to try to push my a/c compressor and hoses over to the side so that we don't have to disconnect it. And we are going to be pulling the motor only, leaving transmission in.
Install them counter clockwise,or it'll be a no go. Ask me how I know.Years ago I did my first H.O conversion,and everything went perfect.Then,when it came time to start,It was .I had support from Turbocoupe50 (Tom),and he figured out my mistake.I wired everything opposite of how I first did it,started up and ran smooth and tight.Now I know.I had to learn like everyone else.Good luck.We're all here if you need us.
what on earth are you talking about? lol i hope you're talking about the plug wires or else i'm completely lost hahah
no more steel toe mandles? lol
ok, good.. i'm a little less lost now :D lol
I am kind of cheap when it comes to tools. As long as they don't break, its what I use. I am not impressed with china ratcheting wrenches, especially for the price, and I will not pay $20 a wrench when a socket works just as good, if not better most of the time. I have a set of standard wrenches that have always gotten the job done when a socket wont.
To the OP, good luck with everything, and if you need any help or any questions, please come to us and ask. Nothing worse then a new motor that doesn't work. Take lots of pictures.
i didn't pay that much for mine and they're craftsmen
We got some more work done today!
I tried to tell my buddy not to wear those flip flops, then he stubbed his toe and bled out all over the place.
Some more pics.
Some pics of my new intake vs. my old one and my empty engine bay.
Just out of curiosity , why did you remove the engine with the converter attached ?
What converter are you talking about?
torque converter.
Lol.
I would replace your transmission input shaft seal or at least inspect it carefully. Can be done pretty easy. Sucks to do all that work and have a leaky trans when your done.
Yep bad move, if the engine didn't pull straight out, the hub on the converter likely damaged the front bushing in the transmission...
I wasn't aware that you could detach the torque converter from the fly wheel without removeing the engine first. How would you reach the bolts?
You remove the lower inspection plate and remove the nuts , you do have turn the engine over to get to all the all of them though.
It is a tight fit getting a wrench in there .
I hope you don't try putting it back in the opposite the way you took it out!, I think your goin to learn something?. Any chance you looked at a manual?, You caused more headaches for your self than you needed to do. You will learn. Your pics are good, Take some more on the redo. Ask some one, There's help here someone will guide you the right way.
O.K. this is where our lack of experience with automatic transmissions starts showing it's ugly nose. But this is also where having you guys to help out is a great resource.
I do have to ask,why is the engine being pulled? also where in the states do you live?
Swapping out the old S.O. engine for a H.O. engine. I live in North Carolina.
What part of NC? I'm near Charlotte and would love to come see the swap!
Asheboro.
Yeah, if you know where you can get another good AOD for cheap, I'd be grabbing it. Would've also avoided all the ATF everywhere by leaving the t/c.
I ruined a trans at the junkyard, I was separating a 3.0 and trans from a Taurus, took the fast, easy way, pulled the trans off and left the convertor...the boss wasn't happy. Neither was I, after the customer brought the car back that I swapped that same trans into...with a kick-ass front seal leak. The labor to replace said trans was free....meaning I didn't get paid to fix my f*ckup. :hick:
After that, I spent the extra 10 minutes and took out the 4 bolts, and left the converter on the input, lol
I'm not bustin' your balls, I've been there. Hopefully, you got lucky. :bowdown:
When you take the bolts out (or tighten them per reassembly) use a pry bar, wedged in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel (and engine) from turning as you tighten/loosen the bolts. You'll have to use a wrench, and there's not a lot of room, but it's the best way unless you love replacing your AOD. That, and you'll never get the converter seated correctly to drive the pump if you stab it all back in there opposite of how you pulled it. ;)
Got a little work done today. We ran into a snag with one of the torque converter nuts was almost stripped off. Had to take a chisel to it to get it off. I removed most of the brackets from the old engine so now I've got to get them cleaned up to go back on the new engine. We got the new engine on the engine stand and got the headers attached.
You're getting there......one piece at a time.That's how I did it.I mounted the short block on the stand and started building on it until I finally had a quality engine,that also looked pretty sweet.Keep it up. I went a completely different look,but,I have always liked the factory Ford gray.Odd but true.
Are you using the same torque converter? or upgrading?
I'm going to be using the same converter.
Ok guys since you been gone I have taken 2 steps forward, 3 steps back and then 4 steps forward again. We started to put the engine in and get married up to the transmission. We pushed, pulled, wiggled, cussed, spit, and shook our fists at it and could not get the engine to line up with the transmission.
We knew that something wasn't right so I got another friend that has more experience with automatic transmissions to help us out. He came and took a look at and seen that the machine shop had failed to remove the pilot bearing from the rear of the engine. So we had to pull the engine back out and get that pilot bearing removed. We was then able to put the engine back in and get it hooked up to the transmission. Unfortunately all this has eat up about two weeks of time.
At least it was just removing a pilot bearing and nothing bad. You lost some time,but now you're on your way. Nice looking engine. What kind of exhaust are you installing? Are those factory Mustang headers?
They are Flowtech headers. Had to remove the driver's side header so we would have more wiggle room during the installation. I am going to have 2 1/2 inch exhaust run with an x pipe.
Question. For those of you that have switched to headers, did you have to add extensions to your 02 sensor harness? I went ahead and ordered a set from Summit just in case.
Another question. Should the torque convertor nuts be torqued to a certain specification. I have them tight enough that it spins the flywheel when I try tighten them more.
I made extension harnesses for my O2 sensoors and there is an actual torque spec on the converter ....but I dont ever recall actually using it:hick: ....lol
"Secure the converter-to-flywheel attaching nuts and tighten them to 20-30 ft. lbs. (27-40 Nm)."
I usually put a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar on the crank pulley to stop the engine from turning. Sometimes I use a pair of vicegrips on the flexplate through the starter hole (when I am alone).
Get a login at Autozone for the repair guides. Or pick up a mustang or thunderbird book at a local halfprice books.
I also use threadlocker (Blue) on them because I really don't want those puppies coming loose.
Complete procedure:
Thanks!
I've got all my accessories back on and most of the wiring harness. I have run into a problem getting my header to fit on the driver's side. The header keeps bottoming out on the motor mount. I think I'm going to have to dimple the header to get clearance. I welcome advice with this.
Take a bigass pry bar and bend the $hiz out of the hoop for the mount. Bend it as close to the K-Member as you can. Mine clears great now.
I had to do the same on my old cougar - put a little dent in on the driver's side so the bolts would line up on the head. Do you have a floor shifter or is your car column shift? If it's column shift you will have to grind the horizontal linkage rod down a little bit to clear one of the bolts on the header.
And I will be the one to say it.......................
[SIZE="1"]What's with the Fram oil filter??? [/SIZE]
I used a BA hammer and bent the hoop out of the way as well.No need to bend up a good header.
Ummmm. Is there something wrong with Fram oil filters? Other than the ugly ass chevy motor orange color?
Oh and I do have the column shifter.
Fram works,but is by no means a great filter. I use Mobil 1 and Ford filters personally.
Do a quick search on headers and the shifter linkage. I was using stock Mustang shorties, and I had to grind the rod. Not sure about your Flowtech's but it would be a good idea to read up on it.
There's an easy way around grinding the column linkage. Just remove the stud on the header that interferes with the linkage and instead use a nut and bolt in it's place. It's worked fine for me. I have no leaks and can get the shifter to all gears (which is fun since my valve body allows for fully manual as well as automatic shifting).
Fram=suck. They used to have issues with coming apart, not sure if they still do. Motorcraft filters are made by Wix I believe, and are cheaper than Fram, at least by Wal Mart's prices. Plus they say Ford on 'em ;-)
We got a lot of little things done today. We got the starter back on, the transmission linkages hooked back up, radiator hoses hooked up, we had to dimple the driver's side header and remove the lower stud from the header and got it hooked up. I got the H.O. computer plugged in but not installed in the kick panel. I need to know if there is a trick to getting that computer back in there and hooked up. If I put the computer up in the kick panel first I can't get the plug lined up to fit in because there's so little slack in the harness that won't fit properly. I haven't tried getting the computer back in with hooking the harness up first because I just don't think it's going to fit. it just seems like I need more slack with the harness.
Oh I forgot to mention that I had to order my heater coil hoses because no one around here had them in stock. They will be here on Monday and hopefully we will then be able to complete the install. That is the only thing holding us up at this point. Hopefully we will be able to get her fired up Monday night.
The local parts store didn't have heater core hoses for the Sport either,so,I bought some for an '89 Mustang GT. They had those,.....and they are the same thing.
Had to order mine from Late Model Restoration Supply out of Texas.
Hey I was just sitting around thinking.... I'm not sure that have my starter solenoid wired up correctly. Can you guys send me a pic of your solenoid? And where does the little pig tail thing on negative cable go?
I know all the wires that have fuse links go on the positive side as well as the cable that runs to the starter. On mine, the only thing on the other side of the solenoid is the big ground wire.
Little pigtail on the negative battery cable? Can you post a picture?
If you are running a standard starter then you should have the 4 ga. cable from the Battery + and all of the other wires on one side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid should have the 4 ga. wire that goes to the starter itself.
If you are running a high torque mini-starter then you should have the 4 ga. cable from the Battery +, the large 4 ga. cable to the starter, and all the other wires on one side of the inner fender mounted starter solenoid. The other side of the solenoid will have the smaller (typically 10 ga.) wire that goes to the mini-starter. It is kind of redundant to have two solenoids but for our cars it is the easiest way to wire in a mini-starter.
There is usually a light blue with a red stripe wire that is connected to the solenoid which comes from the ignition module under the steering column. This is what energizes the solenoid when the key is turned to start the car.
On my '83 the pig tail was connected to the ground that wend to the EEC-III processor. I found this out when the car would not run and had to take it to a shop only to find out this connection had corroded so badly that it no longer provided a good connection. Two cuts and a butt splice and the car was running.
Darren
We got just about everything hooked up tonight. We got the hoses hooked back up, the fan on, the belt back on, the distributor set in, and the spark plug wires run. We had to stop because we were short two bolts for the upper intake because we bent a couple of them using them with the cherry picker. Not a big deal because I had a few extra back at my house. We also need a gasket for the throttle body, but all the auto parts stores are already closed.
Here are some photos of the negative wire pig tail that I was talking about. I think I have it hooked up right going to the fender and the starter cable going to the other side of the solenoid.
And does anyone know where this hose is supposed to connect to. Don't mind the silver paint on it. It runs to the underneath side of the upper intake,but I can't figure out where this end is suppose to go.
On my car it goes to the charcoal canister on the passenger frame rail
I'm not 100% where exactly it goes, but on my car, I have a vacuum hose the same size diameter that runs under the manifold towards the distributor, and goes down towards the smog pump area. I've never payed much attention to it to actually see exactly where it goes, but that gives you a general idea. I'm sure others will chime in.
Looks like it went together pretty good, nice work. Now you just gotta get that HO intake plate...
Just started following your swap. Your swap makes mine look pretty bad. I'll post pics eventually since I'm still ironing out the kinks (brakes and fuel). I'll be referring to this post as I have already seen some of the same questions I had being answered. Once again, nice job!
Too bad the stock 5.0 HO intake flows like poo. I think they look so cool.:D
The only one that looks better IMO is the tubular GT40, which I have been trying to find cheap for my car.
I think it looks like the rack of Brontosaurus ribs that flips over Fred Flintstones car
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOHS_4mqVZM&feature=related
I like the (no longer available) Vortech plenum. Good job so far. I have an entire Mustang that I am going to use to just swap everything over.
I had a GT40 intake for a week.I actually didn't like the looks at all.I went back to my polished Explorer upper and sold the GT40. No regrets. I think it's because I like something a little different,unique to the Sport.
It's allliiivvveee!!!.....But leaking! I finished getting everything attached and filled with fluids. Turned the key and she fired right up on the first try. We had two leaks though. One leak was coming from the top of the throttle body which turned out to be a simple fix by just tightening it down a little. The second leak has not turned out to be as simple. We are leaking at the goose neck where the thermostat goes. Not from any of the hoses but between the goose neck and intake manifold is where it's leaking. We tried tightening the bolts down, but that has not stopped the leaking. I had put a new thermostat, a new gasket and gasket sealer in so I'm not really sure why it's leaking.
Don't over tighten the thermostat housing. If the thermostat is not seated if the groove right it will leak and if you over tighten the housing it will crack.
Check to see if the thermostat is seated properly. It might be in backwards, or crooked. I believe the spring goes to the block side. Glue the thermostat in place before you put it in and take alot of time to make sure it is in right. One of the worst things to do on one of these cars.
The gooseneck has a machined surface that is lower than the gasket sealing surface that the T-Stat housing has to stay in or it will cause the goose neck to not seat on the lower intake properly and leak. Here is a pretty easy way to ensure that the T-Stat housing stays where it is supposed to while you install the goose neck.
(http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/Thermostat1a.jpg) (http://i786.photobucket.com/albums/yy142/dbrune_83/Thermostat2a.jpg)
Not saying this is it but its a good place to start. The goose neck can also get warped so if that is the case you can get a new one at O'Reillys under part number MRY-84884 and they are about $10.
Darren
Wow I have been wrenching on fords for about 30 years and have never seen this trick .....COOL !!
Thanks I'll be pulling it back off on Saturday and re-installing.
Well I wish I could take credit for that but one of the guys on the Corral posted those pics. I just copied them rather than linking the thread as it was a long one. Hope it helps some people out as it made my day a lot easier the last time I had to service that thing.
Darren
Leak fixed!!!! Next stop the exhaust shop. Aerocoupe I used the method showed in your comment and it worked perfectly. By the way I find myself hypnotized by your avatar.