Just kidding folks. But at a perfect time for a major swap/swaps, nothing of the kind is taking place. I have begun tearing down the nose of the red car for the purpose of patching some rot I found in the subframe just above the spring bucket on the driver's side. Everything has to come out, K-member included of course. While Im at it, I'll scrub the living hell out of the entire bay and touch up a few spots that just have surface rust. And, the same goes for the engine. Whole thing will be cleaned up. I want to open the hood and see something as close to, say, thunderjet's car as possible LOL.
So rest assured that I'll probably be freaking out once I get the remaining stickers from 50resto that need to be replaced (fan shroud, maybe the A/C one), as I did when I got the one for the airbox :rollin:
Tranny is out, low oil sending unit has to be removed and then the engine is ready! Probably borrowing my friend's motor crane this weekend. He's actually the individual that will be fabricating and welding in the frame patch as well. I saved some pics from Jerry's thread awhile back of when he did his subframe just in case they might come in handy.
Something else sure to get you laughing: this summer on craigslist I found a Snap-On ACT-3000 R-12 machine, with 17 lbs of R-12 included for $300. And it's even got a perfect user guide and VHS TRAINING VIDEO!!!! :hick: And a week later found a guy asking $70 for 3 12-oz cans of it and a hose to hook it up. Brough $50 cash with me lol. Guy took it! SO...yup I think I might have enough to charge the system. Cross your fingers....
You want it to look like this?
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/clean%20T-bird/DSCN1913.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/clean%20T-bird/DSCN1912.jpg)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/clean%20T-bird/DSCN1914.jpg)
Just a tip. While you have the inner fender liners off paint the outside of the strut towers. It makes the wheel well look better;)
(http://i198.photobucket.com/albums/aa33/thunderjet302/clean%20T-bird/DSCN1922.jpg)
You are an ass. I hate you. DIE DIE DIE DIE :flame: lol
if there was such a thing as too clean, that would be a prime example hahahah
Oh man, the drool nearly escaped my mouth that time looking at your photos thunderjet. Maybe sometime get my cat looking like that.
I'm trying to inspire you to clean the Cougar up;)
Oh dont't worry I'm not skimping on anything I wanna be proud when I flip the hood up....
UPDATE TIME!!!!! yay!!
Today got the K-member out. Broken off bottom coil on the passenger side, naturally lol. This is it. Everything's exposed now. Just a matter of when Kevin The Bodyman (very original unique sounding superhero name I know!!! :hick:) can cmon down and we'll get the frame done. Passenger side I'm not sure about. I should take pictures of the bolts. Wow. All four shock tower bolts were rusted away almost 1/4 of their thickness. :mad: Sometimes I feel like I want to burn this thing. I know we've all been there. But then I remember Jerry's car and I roll my eyes and think how unreasonable I'm being LOL. Still just angering to think about. The passenger side rail looks great but I can feel with my finger the one bolt tube inside is crumbling apart. :rolleyes: I guess we'll cut that side apart too. Maybe just from the inside of the rail to inspect it or something. Either way, once the metalwork is done it's cleaning cleaning and more cleaning. Can't wait to be there!
I gotta do the same with my convertible GT and im soooo not looking forward to that. Good luck with yours though and thunderjet your engine bay is B-E-A-uuuuutiful lol.
California=awesome :D
That's not that bad. I've seen much, much worse. It's a simple, easy fix.
Recent progress....
Here's a picture of random cleaned-up parts LOL. I'd show the painted sway bar but that's wrapped in tissue paper as well like the front fender. :D
I have the pass. side splash apr0n out, and have to get the fuel lines out of the way and the brake hose mount, etc so that rail is open to access as well, then I just have to say the word and the subframe on both sides can be fixed. Just got a nice set of GT40's today, probably sending out my intake to TMoss tomorrow. So pretty soon the top end will be swapped once again, with blockoff plates all over *everything* so I can degrease and sandblast the block outside. Then it will be ready to just drop in.
It's funny as this was supposed to be a fall/winter project but I'm trying to get more done before it gets really cold because my mom won't allow me to buy a propane or kero heater for the garage. (I think I've bitched about this before? :rollin:) It seems like as time goes on I get less and less tolerant of the cold. I dread working out there once again in just over 50 degrees with ice-cold tools in my hands. Maybe if I land the job I'm waiting to hear back on, I might "bust outta this joint". But that's another story for another day.
That master cylinder is pretty gnarly lookin :flame:
Yeah the master is stained by something that simple green won't take off. ;)
Zonda are those GT40s going to work with stock SO pistons? I think you might be clsoe to hitting a valve....
You didn't smooth out the mold line on your intake... It keeps Vinnie from getting a good night sleep...lol
Jerry isn't joking. I WILL stay up late worrying about the mold line.I'm already freaking out.
yay pretty painted parts:D
I did that when I dropped in the new engine last year. Problem is, I didn't take (or have, more literally) the time to paint the chassis while I was at it. The other problem is that I've removed so much junk outta there since then that now I have to repaint everything where stuff's missing :toilet:
Oh yeah, and speaking from experience: DON'T PAINT BOLT THREADS :dunce:
Unless their the ones that stick out the back of a bracket or something, then in that case only paint as much as will be sticking out.
And make sure you use at least 3 coats of paint (1 being primer I guess) or it WILL come off. I cleaned, primed, and coated (twice) my intake with high temp paint, and its still chipping a little.
Well if Vinnie wants to come over and remove my intake to fix it he can. Other wise it's staying the way it is;)
Time and energy to get work done!!!
Pressure washed and sandblasted the engine this week. Just did the blasting earlier today. I still have to take a pic of the upper intake, never took pics when I got em back from TMoss. And of course now the lower is covered by masking tape then duct tape to seal it off for this whole process. But it's AWESOME. If anyone wants to, like me, keep the look of the stock H.O/S.O. intake, and have it flow like a GT-40, send it his way. Cost me a little over $300 to have both upper and lower ported, everything cleaned with solvent, and the whole thing blasted and painted with clear 500 degree ceramic engine enamel. AND get it shipped back ;) LOL.
Enjoy the progression! Mocked up and sealed....cleaned...blasted. Notice the grey Ford block paint near the oil filter port in the third pic. Idk why the order messed up. I was so happy though LOL. That settles it once and for all. So next I can do the heads and block that color and keep the timing cover as is, I don't think any aluminum other than the intakes was painted? Probably do Eastwood rust encapsulator on the heads and block first just to take care of any specks of rust remaning so the paint stays the hell on.
Obviously the best picture. Cobra heads that nice would be like.....frickin....400 MEEEEEEEELION DOLLARS right? :rollin:
Good work so far. What color are you painting it?
Looks gray on my monitor:burnout:
I think that's just bare blasted iron.
Could be ..(I was being a wise guy)
Re-read the post!!! :P Haha it's gonna be grey. I found remains of the original finish after degreasing it. What a brilliant archaeological find, I know. Might need to carbon date it, it's over 15 years old LOL.
But the whole desired end result is an ALMOST stock looking engine bay. It wont be 100% because of the mustang shorty headers. They'll be either just bare blasted or painted black or a dary grey or something that won't stand out very well. Ideally if I could find some cast manifold that flowed really well like something out of a '60s SBF, that would get me as close to stock appearing as possible. But as long as the engine itself leads no one to believe it has ~270 ponies instead of 150, great. So everything will be painted as it was from the factory.
I retain all of the accessories. I want the A/C to *work* and not only work but have R-12 in it, which is period correct. (see how crazy I am yet?) The smog pump is there, pumping air into the air. I may even attach the tubing with the diverter valves in it just so it sits there above the headers, and MAYBE even extend the vac lines I accidentally snapped off way back so they reach those valves just to have it all there for show. I would really do that lol.
AFAIK the engine blocks and heads were natural cast iron and never painted. However gray would be pretty close to natural cast iron. If you're looking to do a factory look thing (since I'm gathering that you're running a ported TMOSS factory HO intake) then you'd want the engine painted as follows:
block and heads: gray or cast iron
intake manifold: silver (upper and lower)
oil pan: black (since SO 5.0s had black oil pans and HO 5.0s had gray oil pans)
valve covers: SO covers painted black
timing cover: silver or natural cast aluminum
headers: gray
I like your idea for a sleeper build. I'd like to try the same thing but with GT40 aluminum heads on another car ;)
They were painted , just not with very much care at all , it actually looked like a drunken third grader with a spray bomb was let loose on them :).....( I worked at a Ford dealership service dept. from early 85 till July 92)
The rest of your color observations are 100% accurate
Yeah the only thing I'd have to contest is that. Again as you'll see in the picture, SOMEHOW about 2 square inches of grey paint remained among the surface rust all over the block once I washed it off. I couldn't believe it but sure enough it was there and I was so happy to see it!
There is an article about the history of Ford engine painting on mustangs unlimited or super duper mustangs or some name like that :hick: whatever the site is. Google it and you'll find it. They say that it was grey in the 80s but at "some point" they stopped painting them. I'm guessing early 90's or maybe with the introduction of the 4.6 V8. Probably the latter as it's aluminum.
The pan as you can see is black which is good, it was actually replaced when I first started driving. The pan had rusted through and leaked bad. My mom ponied up $1000 to have a shop do that pan because I was already kind of attached to the car just because it was my dads. God bless her even though we don't agree on everything. :D
As for aluminum heads, once paint is on you'll never know! Unless you had a really keen eye and maybe the surface came through a little and looked too smooth. And you could still use one of those "cast finish" paints to make it look rough.
ok
Conflict on my 20th then because I also have haze gray paint on my block ,,and my oil pan is gray.
unmolested from all my historical paper trail from the previous 2 owners.
Noooo shiznit! See the crown vic had/has (I guess I can say has because the title is mine once again but the car is physically not near me ;) ) a black pan, that's an S.O. Maybe it differed from car to car. Sure wouldn't surprise me. THANKS Ford!!!!!! :mad::rollin:
And I just realized I never say Lou's question among his massive pictures lol. IIRC vinnie has an S.O. bottom end with his setup. I'll definitely spin the thing over and hopefully not feel it get stuck LOL. Definitely wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if I had to pull it apart again at this point in the game. And if it's alright, well, from the day it's done and henceforth, this car will be seeing the exact opposite of what it saw last summer and fall. That is, meeting up with my buddy Friday and Saturday nights, handing him the keys and going for a ride out to the hot rod hangout then proceeding to haul ass through back roads, around town, peeling out through 1st and 2nd gear at six grand...doing burnouts at 6 grand....this thing didn't flinch once through all our hellraising, and did it make power up there with the cobra intake!!! Valves and cylinders sure are clean too hahaha. But that's what the silver car is for now. This will have the power but it won't be used like that.
The one on the vert is now brown....lol
The Sport has a Mountaineer GT40-P engine with ported and nicely worked "P" heads. Other stuff as well to give a few extra horsepower.
As far as the smog setup. Install a smog delete pulley,paint it black to match the others,and most people will never notice as long as the rest of the stuff is gone as well.
I'm just leaving the pump.... not actually connected to anything of course
I've just never seen gray paint on the 5.0 blocks, probably because it was so poorly done that it didn't last much more than a year ;)
One coat of self-etch primer, two coats of Dupli-Color "Ford Gray". I kiiiiiinda feel like it's a little darker than the remains I found degreasing it LOL. I'm just too OCD, nuttin's ever good enough! As if it's ever gonna be in a 400 point AACA show :rollin:. I mean I'd really LIKE it to....but EGR parts and the like missing make it non-original.
SO!!!! Looks great, even better in person, no runs or anything, I thought I sprayed it kinda thick, but I'm jsut so worried it's gonna come off with the heat of the engine. I suppose it'll help that the usage will be very very low and of course the car will never have a drop of water touch it anywhere anytime.
I'll start reassembling the motor in it's entirety soon, THAT I can't wait to see.
Other pics.
The paint will stay on fine. When the engine heats up the paint will bake onto the block and heads. After 3 years the duplicolor Ford blue on mine has held up fine. If you're going to do what I do with mine (not drive the car in rain or snow/salt) the paint on the block will last forever.
Its always reassuring that taking something apart that isnt broken basically says its going to start up fine when you put it in. I totally get what your doing but I couldnt be so close to where you are without doing a rebuild.
I love when you forget to look back for awhile and notice new posts you had no idea were there :hick:. Lou that's exactly what usage the car will see haha. And as far as a rebuild, absolutely this goes against common sense when have I ever exhibited that? :rollin:
But, onward with some good news! (FINALLY!!) Completed the piston cutting process today, worked so well with the drill and shop vac adapter to the spark plug hole. I bought sticky sandpaper and cut out circles, had just enough plus an extra so that each relief used it's own piece of sandpaper, which was necessary, it did wear each one right down. But I love the way the "eyebrows" look, a very clean cut in each case and now PLENTY of clearance. To beat the dead horse AGAIN, this car won't get beaten.....buuuuut if I need to strut my stuff and be an asshole by doing a rev limiter burnout, I can just as before and worry not. :evilgrin: Which is handy because boy do these sound good up there.....
Definitely the highlight of the day being my decision to go ahead and re-assemble it to where I had it before I realized I had an issue, including an alternator with the CORRECT awesome-looking fan that these came with, thanks to Anthony aka Kingcars. :D There ya go ya I know you'd bitch if the credit wasn't included HAHAHA :P So that picture is of course included as well because I've been waiting to be able to post that kind of pic too as many others have!!!!
Yum!!!!!!!
Nice progress. I am surprised you're not going with a 3G after everything going on. Either way,sweet looking engine. When is it going in the car?
3G is not factory correct ;) And yes I'm sure it would do even better but surprisingly I haven't once had a single electrical *power supply* worry with this car. In fact, the Autocraft Titatnium battery that my dad bought for it, and he couldn't have bought it any more recently than late 2002 is still like new in it's cranking delivery and ability to sit and hold a charge as well. But it clearly must be being charged well while in use. And lights never dim or anything like that.
I'm focusing on the engine now because it's something to get done LOL. Still waiting on my friend's dad to come weld my frame up. He WILL do that, he's as dependable and honest as the day is long. But I told him no rush, and he needs money and refuses to charge me for this. So as of now he's busy bringing cash-making jobs into his garage.
I will be powerwashing, maybe sandblasting the transmission soon as well as getting the very minor front leak fixed. It has to be either the input shaft seal (which I already replaced last spring) or the pump casing gasket. I have to ask around, I don't know if that can just unbolt and slide out or if anything has to be taken apart in the valve body first. I think I will just thoroughly clean the case and around it in the bellhousing and goop Permatex Super High Tack on the joint as a backup plan.
You're going for a restored appearance? Factory fresh.
Yup, factory appearing but sure as hell not factory muscle! I'll keep my trusty 5.0 LITER EFI plaque atop the intake, and aside from headers (which will be a flat dark grey so as not to draw much attention to themselves) you'll never know by looking at it what it's got packing. I keep thinking maybe I'll get some Flowmaster 50 or 70 series and actually put TAILPIPES on the thing so it's not much louder than your average pickup truck. That would go well with the whole thing and it would be truer to the car itself....these were luxury or semi-luxury cars, it ought to be quiet. Powerful but delivering that with class. The silver car has an E cam and that's the car to keep totally obnoxious. But I dunno...I don't think I can make myself do it. No it won't be driven a lot, but when I do drive it I'm still gonna be aggravated that I can't hear the thing! By "hear the thing" I of course mean setting off nearby car alarms. But that's just obvious (right). LOL
Do you have a Tmoss ported stock HO intake?
Hell yeah! I'm amazed at his (their) work. I say their because it's him and his brother Matt that run the "whole operation". They gave me a list of options and I said I wanted everything with everything on it. Porting it to flow like a GT40, cleaning it in a solvent tank, bead blasting everything and then coating it with clear ceramic enamel good to 500 degrees F. Took 'em a few days and that's it. Really impressed.
How much does that service generally cost ?
Can't imagine much has changed in about a month or so...it's $150 to have a lower ported. Another 30 and you get it cleaned, blasted, and painted. Another 100 and he'll clean, port, blast and paint your upper. To send your lower back to you it's 25-30ish depending on where you live, sending back an upper and lower is 40-45ish, same deal. It's well worth it. Came out to right about $360 I spent all said and done, including getting the thing to them! They're in MO just fyi. If you do send them an intake and want it cleaned, be sure you do them the courtesy of taking it to a DIY carwash and blasting the hell out of it to get the caked on gunk inside/under the lower off, that helps them get it done quicker and guarantees that it'll come back to you like mine did, literally spotless, like a brand new piece. I mean not ONE speck of dirt/oil anywhere. Period.
My friend and his dad have been goin' full bore since the day they moved into their house. The planets aligned and he got time off from helping at his BIL's shop. And now...he will focus his energy towards this. I can't express how excited I am. :D
What a sight it was to see it OUTSIDE lol. My friend will be sure to take as many pictures as possible during the transformation, which includes a couple holes in the passenger side floor I found not too long ago as well, hidden right up above that brace that sits there behind the splash guard.
I cannot wait to be chirping tires and lookin' good all over creation come spring time.
looking good Paul, I am glad to see those headers are gonna get some use. What year is the panther in the picture? Is it a slicktop? 87 or 88?
Pics like that actually make me miss the days I was swapping EVERYTHING on the Sport. I enjoyed it.
This should look factory correct (i.e. no sloppy "patch job") when it's done correct? If so it should be awesome.
While it was apart you didn't happen to find any factory paint or inspection marks did you?
Dude....I've been meaning to take a picture of this one thing for about since you MADE that thread. :hick:
I think it goes perpendicular to the length of the vehicle, on the driver's shock tower, there is a faint yellow printing, stencil I guess, painted on that says "4 21". The door jamb says 4/87 as the build date. So I concluded that it's birthday is April 21st 1987. :D I make a note of it every year!! Lol.
Your first statement is why it's going to who it's going to. He knows exactly how I am and will do his best to blend it in with everything that's there. I'm really excited. I'll have to post pictures of my lower quarters that he patched. The 1-inch flat feature right around the wheel opening and their slight kick-out, the whole shebang, they look how they should. He will do the black car as well, unless I decide I want to practice welding some more and try. That car I'm not nearly as worried about. Don't want it looking awful, but this car is the one that calls for this type of attention.
Where's the picture ;)?
I'm glad the guy you're using is going to make it look factory. if you want "originality" it has to look original.
That's awsome! I'm glad to see after all this time they're going to get it done for you. Being that you know them I'm sure they'll do a good job for you.
Just some cell phone pics I took tonight while I was up there. I'll have all his detailed pictures of every step of the process once it's all said 'n' done. But he's movin' right along. No rush on his part or mine, I'm happy to have the middle stall my mom allows me to use, to now park the vic in instead of being jammed up by an immobile vehicle. That and I was able to replace a GONE control arm bushing.
Notice the notch he cut to match the factory rail LOL :D
Looking good. It looks like he's going to do a hell of a job.
I forgot to mention that the top cover piece is actually real solid so he said let's re-use it!! :D
Those tubes...they're from an old garage door torsion bar spring shaft. Hopefully a nice one like a Wayne Dalton or something LOL. And that's an optical illusion, no a Tidy Cats tub is not holding this car up. Unfortunately.
You're going to re-shoot the entire bay when he's done right?
Noooooo no no way too much good original paint. :D
He's gonna use gray sealer just like what they used and try to match the light covering the factory did. About half that engine bay is grey and half is red. Pretty sad but that's the way it was, and he maintains he can continue the pattern where he worked. If he has to scuff off some more in the surrounding area to give him room to blend, that's fine with me. That will be interesting, to see if he can pull it off, and I can't see why not ;)
The factory really did a half ass job painting the engine bay on these cars. I have seen some that are pretty much fully covered and some that are really splotchy. Most of the time the paint does not extend below the pinch weld between the firewall and cowl. Mine looked to be fairly well covered before I re-painted it but that could have been because the car had a silver engine bay, which blends well with the gray primer.
Huh. I don't remember you saying you were painting the bay!!! LOL wow. *goes and digs up thread*
Makes you wish you could be a fly on the wall in the assembly line back then. Of course then you would just be even more pissed off, watching it happen, powerless to change it...
Oh I painted the engine bay 6 years ago. I pulled everything off if the inner fenders and the cowl and re-shot it. I made it better than factory as everything got a nice, even coat.
I'm amazed at how bad the paint can be that isn't on exterior surfaces. I've pulled off trunk panels and found py paint coverage under them. On my Focus the paint doesn't cover the entire engine bay. Now on the Mustang the whole thing is covered. Maybe the guy painting the Mustang liked grabber blue so he made sure to do a good job.
Here's a fun thing to do while you have the engine out. Refinish all the brackets under the hood. If they are rust colored they were probably plain steel. I think Eastwood sells a paint that replicates the factory look pretty closely.
Looking much more like it was never messed with and someone just ground off the factory paint...
Other side isn't even worth taking pics of LOL. He popped off the cap, gutted the tubes and webbing between them, replaced that with something far stronger and threw the cap back on. After sandblasting, the outer structure and shock tower proved to indeed be real solid. Shocking. But great! From the outside, the passenger side frame is literally nothing but original pieces, which is kinda neat like REALLY EFFIN AWESOME lol
not looking forward to doing this to my white car LOL looks good!
That looks really good. Once it's painted/blended in it will be invisible.
Unreal.........
wow, looks great!
on a side note, if a non-fox bird guy looked at the first pic, he'd be scratching a hole in his scalp, trying to figure out why it looks like swiss cheese lol
I know LOL...I can see why a lotta mustang people like to fill them in and smooth the engine bay over. I still can't figure out why those are there. The ones IN the frame rail sure aren't any good, they let in but there's no way for it to get out!!!! Then for some reason the rail just implodes with rust. Out of nowhere. I know CRAZY right!???
you know those little firewall plugs? buy a pack of them and stick them in the frame rail holes.. problem solved! i did that to my blue car, after a couple hours with superclean, soapy water, a power washer and blow gun to clean them out.. i like to think it's saving my ass in the future LOL
mustang guys aren't the only 1's who fill them in.. that's my first body mod planned for any fox i own(ed).. except for the holes i make good use of lol
I'd also be interested to know the purpose off the swiss cheese, if there is one.
some fox stang guy once told me it was to improve cooling.. i'm thinking he was full of lol
That was my thought....but plenty of engine bays have zero airflow like that, it comes in, goes through the radiator, and out the bottom. Same way it's been for more than a century LOL. Seems to work fine for everyone else.
Looks great :).
Why is the hood pinkish? Dust?
Yeah and it was up the whole time, and all of us hangin out in the garage leanin over the fenders those are perfectly clean LOL. My friend actually took his Zaino Z6 cleaner spray and spiffed it up for me haha. I should put up a pic of it sitting in MY garage now. . For a car with no fender or header on it, looks daaaaaamn slick.
When you put it back together maybe you can stick the wheel center caps back on, since it will be a nice weather only car ;).
Buuuuut I don't like them period!!!!! Waaaaah. I gotta just shoot the hub dust covers black as well as the rear axle shaft ends and get chrome or black lug nuts. The caps just look too "bubbly" for me I guess. Ruins the wheel, which is much more edgy-looking. I know, they're supposed to be there and it looks like something is missing LOL. Maybe I'll pull my head outta my ass someday.
"Dom DeLoiuse? He used to be a chef...on TV. But NOW he just sits at home...with his ass, up his ASS!!!!!" -Danny the Tourettes Guy
F*CK YOU KID, YOU'RE GROUNDED! (why dad?) BECAUSE YOU DON'T THINK THE GARBAGE DISPOSAL SOUNDS LIKE CHEWBACCA TAKING A SH*T
lmao.. tourettes guy is the MAN.. have you ever seen the video where they dub danny's voice into a billy mays commercial? if you like danny, you will die laughing
A billy mays commercial. Oh my god. I will definitely look that up when I get home today lol
Without the caps it is not "stock" appearing ;).
Yeeeeeaaaaah IIIIIII know. It's a struggle within. I am most certainly an automotive hypocrite from time to time. Nobody endorse me, the scandal will be on the news soon enough!!!
(metallica reference lol)
This is also coming from the guy who replaced the stock 14" wire wheels with Turbo Coupe wheels, because the wire wheels suck and I'm pretty sure the car would fry them off fairly easily. My car is not completely stock appearing on the outside, just close enough to fool people ;).
In all technicallity the holes were actually designed for a puropse other than aggrivating us. Theyre a ton of crumple zones. If you hit somthing hard enough it is sopposed to somewhat deflect the damage away from the cabin/firewall. They will buckle instead of force their way straight back.
Car is lookin' rather nice boss
Thanks kid :)
No you should put them back on and be like the Aussies http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru13iW4eajY build a 600 horse motor then put...like...emergency donuts on the back so the car whips around uncontrollably and burns them away in 2 seconds :rollin:
Geez, I hope I don't hit anything.... I'm crumple-less..
Nice Patch Pauly.
BAHH crumple zones. They're not old enough to escape that buzzword. Oh well.
Thanks for the kudos, I'm so happy with what he did. I like to think he's an Albany-area Jerry. LOL
I suppose a customary final pic of the engine bay before it gets re-united with its engine is necessary. Forgot to scrub up right by the passenger hood hinge. I got a lot cleaned in there, this stuff caked on is more like GLUED on. Straight Purple Power works but it sure doesn't just wipe off. Definitely an improvement over what it once was. Can't wait to see it full! Brake lines are back in, everything is set up, ready for the install. Wires and such organized and up out of the way. Kinda shocking how simple it all is compared with a NEW car...though you could make the same argument against a CFI car or late 70s carbed vehicle what with vacuum lines and hoses going EVERYwhere.
Heck yeah man, it cleaned up nice!!
My friend and his dad are on their way over to commence the re-animation....pics later! :)
And the excitement only gets worse from here lol
Wow, you don't play around!!
Hell no, not when everything's there ready to go! :) And especially when those two are there, if I'm slackin' they kick my ass into gear LOL.
The guy who was working the spray wand when your car went down the line did a good job of painting the firewall. It actually has paint all the way to the bottom, something I don's see on most of these cars.
If ya don't look at the TRANNY TUNNEL bwaahahaaha
Seriously though I guess I haven't seen enough empty bay pics. I felt like this thing was bad lol. The frame rails close to the front are pretty much just gray. Then again, my friend's dad saw many GM cars in his dealership work days come in looking far worse than mine!! Jeez....
Keep up tthe good progress!
Looking good!
I just noticed you're missing something. There should be a decal on the driver's side valve cover with info about the engine. My stock valve covers had one.
Yeeeahhh...I threw that the hell out. Was partly missing, real fragile, I just said eff it. Was kinda pissed off but can't win 'em all right? I still have to find a way to replicate the emissions diagram. That's all shiznitty. They're real specific and have a specific three or four digit alphanumeric in the corner based on year and stuff. And some cars have colors in the lines, etc. I could definitely photoshop something, but I need to see it exactly. And of course taking a picture straight on won't do well, the arc of the shroud would probably screw it up. I guess I could play around with it if someone took a good picture.
You can use this for your emissions decal: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/OS-DF1115/1987-Mustang-50L-Emission-Decal . I used the one for an 88 Mustang on my T-bird. It has the HO firing order, but that's correct for both of our cars now ;).
This *might* work for your valve cover: http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/OS-DF1415/1986-Mustang-Gt-Engine-Code-Decal-Aod
I could try taking a picture of the decal on my stock valve covers if you want. I think it's about 90% intact.
Wow. They have that thing!!!? LOL. I guess what I need to do is buy one of those mustang shroud stickers...or even the Tbird one on ebay (someone is making other 80s ford vehicle emissions stickers, I was looking through em one night) and scan it in, and change the bottom left corner code and anything else I can still read on my original. I think that would work.
That engine sticker could also be easily photoshopped. Take a picture or just post here what it says. The format is right there to see on their sticker.
here's the one from the parts bird.... just make one
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/parts%20bird/IMG_5647.jpg)
Exactly. Bam. Thanks a lot Jerry!!!
Got the trans in Friday night. Converter came in the mail and I couldn't resist. Sure funny looking at the thing, it looked lost in the bellhousing, and you can't help but say "I paid all that money for this y little thing?" :giggle:
No reason why I couldn't get it ready to fire next weekend, see how motivated I get LOL. I don't know why I'm not chomping at the bit more to drive it. Shouldn't have bought that black thing...
what did you get for it?
oh wait... is it in your sig?
Another Dirty Dog converter lol. This time direct from THEM, stalled to ironically, what my sig says or thereabouts. I was probably wasting torque in fact with a 3000 RPM stall, which is what the secondhand one I had turned out to do in my car. But this is a lightER 9.5" non-lockup that is reinforced and can withstand the 6200 redline of a 5.0. And there was evidence of ballooning on the other one, the flexplate bolt heads can be seen imprinted on the converter face slightly. That's really the only reason I bought this thing. $550 for 700 rpm, safely with no shrapnel. I guess it's worth it LMAO
That's why I bought a Precision Industries Billet 9.5" Stallion non-lockup converter. It has a billet front plate so I'm pretty sure that my engine doesn't make enough power to balloon it :hick:. I do know that with the 2800 stall it will blow the tires off at will :burnout:. You should have fun with the new converter.
It's not even the power it's just the speed. So DD says anyway. Apparently a non-billet one is good for 5500 rpm, that's it. I guess now it all makes sense, the low-rev gonvernors, useless shift points...not that the basic 5.0 makes more than 20 hp up there anyhow :hick:
You could probably spin the engine past 5500 rpm but I'm pretty sure that it will be past making peak power by that point ;). The other nice thing about a non-lockup is the one piece input shaft. You won't have to worry about snapping the 3-4 shaft with a non-lockup.