I read somewhere on here about people using the b303 cam in the so to ho conversion instead of the stock ho cam.Can you use it without problems?What about any other cams?Doing the conversion and would rather do it now while I'm already doing the swap rather than wait and have to switch cams later.
valve springs are a definite, or else the valves will start 'floating'. otherwise, it's just a change in your firing order. all of the letter cams (B303, E303, etc) are HO firing order.. look for a cam that is compatible with the 5.0 and 5.8, as the 5.8's run the HO firing order
Definitely check piston-to-valve clearance, and for sure when using the SO pistons. (HO have valve reliefs..)
And am I wrong in thinking that the alphabet cams all require mass air to idle correctly..??
my SO in my tbird ran fine with an E303
Dont you have to change computers also for the injectors to fire in the HO order?
To run a B303 you would need:
MAF HO computer
19lb injectors
new valve springs for the E7 heads you're swapping in
Will it work with the SO pistons? Probably not. In reality you should stick with the stock HO cam over the B303. It will provide better response and driveability in a heavy car like a T-bird. The FRPP alphabet cams really suck.......
Cam meant for spinning to 6500 with heads that choke @ 5000 = NO
I would avoid it unless it's a stripped out 5-speed car with MAF, 3.73's or better and ported E7's....otherwise, don't go much more than an E-cam or equivalent.
If you do use it, you'll have the meanest sounding slow car around...lol.
Good luck,
Don
Since we're here, how would an E cam work with unported GT40 heads, explorer upper/lower/throttle body?
I know where one is for cheap...might grab it if it'll go with the other stuff.
with SO or HO pistons?
oh..yeah, it's an HO engine...all stock bottom end. My bad :punchballs::rollin:
just a simple throw together and go. it's only .498 lift.. i had a .529 lift in my F150 motor, which was an 89 HO with GT40P's.. as for the intake, it should be a simple bolt up, plug in and go.. but i'm not a factory EFI guy, i just take EFI parts off and throw them in my s pile in the corner :D
It would work very well...a few people here have E-cams and seem to be happy with them.
FWIW, I drove a B-cammed 85 GT....it had been converted to EFI with '89 MAF harness and ECU and had a '91 HO in it. The car was just under 2900lbs with driver had 3.73's and a T-5...it didn't feel bad...but add 600-800lbs and an AOD and it'll be a real slug. BTW, that car ran 12.70's....motor was all stock with LT headers and MT's. Car now runs 9.90's on a carb'ed 408.
because AOD's suck butt :D lol
Not my AOD. You be amazed what a worked over AOD can do;)
Agreed... Piss on shifting gears continually...
in my god honest opinion, if it weren't for the over drive, everyone would ditch the AOD for a C4/6.. i don't care about overdrive, so i spend half the money you spend on an AOD to work a C6 and have the added fun of a trans brake lol
i'm not going to knock anyone using an AOD, to each his own.. i just know i was 150% happier when i got rid of mine in my cougar for a stock C4
If I ever build another Tbird, it WILL have an AOD, one of each, ya know..
Mine has/would have a T5, and 3.55's in the rear...I really want an Explorer top end, gt40 heads and some better headers done over the winter.
I'm slowly working on it, impatience is high, and I'll be glad when November rolls around.
Course, then I won't have a warm dry place to wrench in.
One of these days though, I'll get there. :hick:
just sitting there on the shelf ;) lol
I had an E303 in my least engine with the flat top pistons.It was really close with PTV clearance.I wouldn't go any bigger,and new valve springs are a must.I also had ported E-7 heads.I was really pushing the limits.It worked great and made great power. BUT,just because it worked on mine doesn't mean it'll work with yours.Find some H.O pistons with valve reliefs,or,just use an H.O cam and good heads with 1.7 roller rockers.That will surprise you on what an H.O can can do for you.I think they are under rated by many people. If you can get the E-cam or B-cam for cheap,do it and shelve it until you have all the right parts.You really need Mass Air for either cam as well.Start collecting parts until you have what you need and do it right the first time.If you get in a hurry with this,you'll be worse off than think and hate it......a lot.
i highly recommend anyone using a B303 in an auto car to get 1.7 rockers, otherwise the cam won't do anything for you really..
but vinnie made the best point of all, HO pistons.. or even a set of aftermarket pistons with valve reliefs. the cheapest are sealed power/speed pro, but i don't suggest using them in a motor you plan on pushing more than 350hp out of. i've seen a lot of them break at the side skirt with around 400hp
There is more to PTV clearance then max camshaft lift.
(http://351winsor.com/joel/Engine_Diagrams_Pics/Overlap_Depict.jpg)
(http://sbftech.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=57.0;attach=3282;image)
(http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g124/Joel50_PR/Valve_Piston_Clearance2.gif)
As far as the AOD -- hardened input shaft, shift kit, tailshaft governor, and a torque converter matched to your combo and you'll be very happy.