I just replaced the alternator with a new one and my blue top ultima is good, but the thing keeps discharging. I took it back today and it said the low pass reg is bad. What the heck is that? I thought the reg is internal? I have checked the lights and cant find anything left on. Whoever wired in the remote system, must have put a timer in the fan cuz it runs for 2 minutes after shutdown. This problem has just started though.
Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect a test light between the cable and the negative battery post.
If you have everything off and the light is on, you have a drain.
Take all the wires off the positive battery cable side of the starter relay. The light should go out.
Put the battery cable back on the starter relay. The light should stay out. If not the problem is with the starter relay.
Touch each wire one at a time to the starter relay terminal to see which one lights the light.
Let us know what you find.
dang. I have a lite on when I jumper the neg lead. Fun part is, I routed the starter solenoid stuff under the fender.
softtouch...the large yellow wire is making the light stay on. Thats the main to the fuse box isnt it?
I am using an 87 EVTM so there may be some differances.
The green wire (fuse link) goes to the ignition switch and the fuse box. The alternator, regulator and the rear window defroster.
The yellow wire goes to 6 fuse links.
Link A: The under the hood light. The EEC keepalive voltage
Link B&C: Anti-lock brake relays.
Link D: Programmed ride control relays.
Link F&J: Integrated Controller Module.
The integrated Control Module is a black box under the hood.
It has 2 fan control relays, EEC power relay, fuel pump relay and the A/C clutch control inside.
Can you unplug the connector on it?
I think I found it. I went to the ignition switch to see if there was a short and one of the wire had pulled out of the socket and was probably shorting out. I rewired the plug a couple months ago and this particular wire was in a melted mess from the old switch. I think I damaged the locks getting it out. As soon as I hooked it back up the light on the negative lead went out. Thanks for the help...i didnt think about using the light like that!
BTW...Do you know which wire on the ignition module controls the TEVES? Both the Brake and ABS are lit up and the brakes are like a rock. I have tried the troubleshooting tree on NATO, but this is odd. If I drive it long enough the lights go out, and I will get one good, full shot of brakes, then the lights immediatly come back on and the brakes go back to rocks. Someone spliced in a remote control system, so I think it may be a short.
I don't know anything about ABS. Don't know what TEVES stands for.
The ABS light is turned on by the ABS Electronic Control Module and the brake light is turned on by the brake fluid level sensor.
What is the "remote control system" supposed to do?
These symptoms sound an awful lot like a bad accumulator on the TEVES system .
The TEVESII is the great big lump of a brake booster with the gallon jug on top.
The remote control...basically someone wired in one of those keychain remote starter with remote lock/unlock of the doors and trunk. It is pretty cool, but EVERYTHING is spliced. LOL
hypo...can I remove that without taking out the whole system?
Sure can , it takes about 30 seconds to swap one literally
Just make sure you pump the snot out of the pedal before you loosen it .
I'm going to try and find a link with instructions for you
Here ya go
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/documents/tech/brakeAccumulator.pdf
Interesting read here.
http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/abs-system.html
sweet, thanks. WTH did people do before the internet!?
hey, question. I have 2 complete systems on the shelf. They wouldn't be pressurized still would they?
uh-oh..the battery draining gremlin is back. I disconnected the negative battery cable and hooked my test light in between the battery post and cable...sure enuff it lights up bright when i touch it to the positive side of the solenoid, and it is the same lead...the one with 2 yellow wires. However, I was doing this at dusk and happened to notice that the green wire w/fusible link going to the 2 small yellow wires is putting out a very faint light when i touch it to the positive terminal of the solenoid. The green wire has almost all the insulation melted off but the fusible link looks good. I unplugged the ignition switch and that didnt help. I then unplugged, one by one, the VAM, control module, fans and alternator. I aint sure what's up now! I think the battery is getting low, but for a while I could hear a solenoid clicking when I touched the green wire to the solenoid. Also, my brake/abs lights are on and you said one of the fusible links goes to the ABS computer right? I wonder if thats bad?
OK, I "found" the problem again. Going by softtouch's post, the underhood light was shorting to ground somewhere. As soon as I unplugged it..the light went out. I hope this is the last gremlin!