while I'm redoing my interior, I am also doing my stereo install..
Question... will 2 sets of 5X7's fit into the rear package tray?
My plan is to install 2 of the 5X7's in rear / 6.5 in rear quarters / 6.5 in doors... 10 sub mounted into rear seat fold down arm rest area..
I'm running all new speaker wires and cables... NOTHING from the stock radio will be used...
what I have:
2- JL Audio XR570-Csi speakers
2- JL Audio XR650-Csi speakers
1- JL Audio 10W3V3D2 sub
1- JL Audio 300/4 amp
1- JL Audio 500/1 mono amp
JL Audio 4 channel front/rear interconnect cable
JL Audio 2 channel sub interconnect cable
JL Audio #12 speaker wire
JL Audio #10 sub speaker wire
Kenwood KDC-X889 receiver
2- Kenwood KDC-CX87 10disc changers
Kenwood KTC-100TR HD Radio box
Kenwood KCA-220A media switch control
Kenwood KCA-IP500 Ipod control unit
Tsunami 2.0 farad cap
Tsunami 1/0 Batt/Ground cable
Tsunami #4 amp connect and ground wires
Tsunami Digital fuse block
Tsunami Dist Block 1/0 in - 4 #4's out
Are you planning to cut up the rear package tray? You could do that then use MDF and copy the carpeted cover. That way to can configure the speaker locations to the way you want too.
that sounds like an idea... I haven't looked under the tray yet to see what is actually there... thought that someone here has already done it and had some tips....
I'm still working on gutting the interior and haven't gotten to the back seat area yet.
I had 4x 8" woofers stuffed in the rear deck of my 87 cougar back in 1995. I bet a whole lot more would fit in a tbird's big ol' deck, heh. Here's a py old polaroid of my old setup.
Actually,the Bird's deck isn't much bigger.
well I just got finished gutting the trunk area... after pulling out all the panels it looks brand new in there... the sound damping is stapled to the floor along with being gluded down. Thats going to be fun getting all that stuff up. I'm doing DynaMat in the entire trunk.
next is pulling the back seat out so I can remove the Premium sound amp and wiring.. then the quarter interior panels and rear tray...
how does the rear seat come out anyway?? that will be tomorrow's task :D
The seat is rather easy to remove
Just push the lower half back and up at the same time.
the upper half bolts in with the seat belt bolts.
After you get the seat out, it is a couple push pins and the third brake lite cover and the deck pannel slides out. Then you can see what you have to work with. I have seen some gas strut conversions that can be done on the Mustang trunk lid to get rid of the twisty bars to assist on the trunk lift. I can't remember where I saw them though. That will give you no restriction on the rear deck even if you cut the whole thing out.
I tried to lift the rear seat bottom up before calling it a night. It would not come up... I didn't try to push it rearward at the same time when lifting at the front.... I worked at a Nissan dealer as a Lead Tech for 25yrs... the Nissan has little pull tabs to release the front of the seat... simply push ths seat down, pull the release and lift up and the seat will come right out.
I will try again tomorrow morning....
Push your knee into the center hump in the seat. After you move it back alittle bit it will pop up. After you get it out you will see what I mean.
Ok... I will try that in the morning.... THANKS
rear seats are out.... rear amp asy.. out
rear tray is out too.... 2 sets of 5X7's will fit nicely...
ok... another question... mounted to the rear seat body brace is a green relay... it's on the pass side facing the trunk area... what is it for.. I want to make all the wiring back there to go away...
my plan is to cut the bracing away and install 3/4 MDF with a cut out for the sub to mount right where the rear seat center arm rest folds down... I'll make that board the front of the sub box....
Fuel pump relay
ok... that will have to stay but get moved... :sawzall:
here is the back seat area with the seat removed / there is a sunshade in the back window...
notice the seat hooks that have to stay to hold the seat back in place..
(http://members.pen 15s.net/esadyankee/photo.jpg%204.gif)
The blue lines are where I'm going to cut the braces out...
the area in the center is where the rear center folddown armrest is..
(http://members.pen 15s.net/esadyankee/cut%20pic%201.JPG)
the black area is where the 3/4 MDF will be. all the way across. It will also be the front of the sub box (shown in yellow) The silver spots are the fastening points. I will have to rivit a L bracket at the bottom going all the way across for added support.
this will put the sub in the center of the armrest.
I'm going to cut out the middle of the tray area out and add MDF with 4 5X7 cut outs for the rear speakers..
this will put the sub in the center of the armrest.
there is a net type material that is in the opening when the arm rest is down... it will protect the sub from objects...
so, what do you think??
(http://members.pen 15s.net/esadyankee/sub%20box%202.JPG)
Thought about cutting out the 2 diagonal braces and using 2 12" subs?
Use free air subs, and seal off the trunk housing. A plus will be a little more "solidness" in the rear...(not the kind some Ex-Lax can cure lol)
I probably wouldn't cut out the center brace...but it's not my car..
My thoughts, exactly. That bracing adds a lot of "stability(?)" to the car's chassis. More than one might think.
I thought about that also, but the 3/4 MDF sheet going all the way across plus being fastened in multiple spots should take care of any lost support from that brace.
I already have the sub, so that's what I have to work with... I had this stereo in my 06 F250 and it sounded awesome.
Why not install the sub in the top of the deck firing up? And why install 5x7's in the deck if you're putting 6.5's in the rear quarters?
Other than that, looks like a good project. Installed 2 12's firing up through the deck earlier this summer, lot of work but worth it.
do have any pictures of your install....
I'm just using the speakers that I already have... they are 4ohm speakers and I plan to run 2 sets on the front channel and 2 sets on the rear channels which will give me the 2ohm's that I'm looking for.
can you have to many speakers??
You should have the sub fireing into the trunk area and drill for 2 3" ports at the arm rest. The you can folt the arm rest down and let the bass in. I did that along time ago with a set of 2 12" in a ported enclosure. I ran the ports up through the rear package tray. It had alot of bass.
No the correct way is to move the subs around in the location you want them firing all different directions, Then witch ever direction gives you the loudest bass, that is how you find the direction to point your subs. Here is something to think about when you do the port thing. Those ports are tuned to the box you put them into. So if you extend them or take them out of the box you just changed the tuning. The best way to get the most Bass in your ride would be to seal the front of the woofers to the cabin area. That would be sealing the trunk off from the front of the car. That way any sounds waves bouncing around the truck area don't cancel out the sound waves in the cabin.
Stuckman
ported box is out of the question.... I do not want the booming type bass.... I want TIGHT bass which means a sealed box... I don't listen to RAP music... Neil Young, Ted Nugent, etc (I'm 52yrs old)
when I had this system in my 2006 F-250 Crew Cab... I used the JL Stealthbox which fit inside the console between the bucket seats... there again, being a sealed box, firing down toward the carpet (this was a very nice design by JL ) it produced tight bass.. It was like being at a concert, in the front of the stage....
I think that my drawing showing a sealed box firing at the back seat through the bulkhead im installing is going to be ok...??
So then some 10" subs then for the tight bass.
you don't think (1) 10" is going to be enough??
been raining for the last couple days so the stereo install has been grounded... sucks not having a garage... anyways, while I had the dash out, I installed the speaker wires going through the body to the doors... very easy with the dash out.
Speaker wire is JL Audio 12ga
(http://members.pen 15s.net/esadyankee/t8.gif)
here is the left front speaker wires.... I also re-taped the entire harness...
(http://members.pen 15s.net/esadyankee/t7.gif)
Well you said you are an old man....LOL Kidding. One may be enough. Or you can go with 1 Kicker L7 10" square sub in the rear deck.