As the title states, I'm looking for an AC Compressor eliminator pulley. Not one of the kit, where you relocated the power steering and such, just one of hte pulleys that bolt right where the AC compressor did. Does anyone know where I can get one? I'm not looking for one of the billet aluminum ones for $79.99. i know Summit has them, but they are 4-6 weeks away, I can't wait that long. Anyone know? Engine is an 87 Thunderbird 5.0
For that pulley,you'll need the Mustang brackets.They aren't made for our cars,they're made for the Stangs.
Is there one I can use straight for the thunderbirds? Or, can i get s shorter belt and just go right from the altenator to the power steering pump, and not tie into the ac compressor, like just leave it there, but bypass around it?
I don't think that you would have enough clearance to just skip the a/c to the power steering. You would either need to move the power steering up or change or add a belt tensioner or idler pulley.
Why don't you just get the Mustang steering pump bracket and the a/c eliminator that lifts the pump a little? You're trying to make this harder than it needs to be. When you get in a hurry,that's when things go wrong,and you end up spending more than planned through trial and error.I have a Stang bracket that I had planned on polishing,and the FRPP a/c eliminators are allover Ebay for about $40.00.
Mine does, but barely. I need about an inch shorter belt. The belt almost rubs itself at the fan/water pump location.
(yes I did remember to put the bolt in for the ALT. lol.)
Of course, this IS a HO engine, NOT the Tbird SO....
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l110/fordtruckfreeek/vehicle%20pics/1988%20Sport/102_0212.jpg)
The reason I want just an idler pulley for the ac compressor instead of relocating the power steering pump, is I know the pump is old, and I know if i disconnect the lines to move it, they are going to leak, at which point I'll have to buy new lines, or a new pump, and I'm really not interested in doing that right now. I'm hoping to just bolt the idler pulley where the AC compressor is, use the same factory length belt(or a shorter one, if needed) and call it a day. Seems much easier than trying to remove the power steering pump and moving it.
Is there a difference between the HO and the SO motor that would make this not work for the Thunderbird?
Brackets are different.
As far as removing the pump,you really don't have to,to swap brackets,all you have to do is remove the pulley (get a puller from Autozone on their loan-a-tool program),and then swap brackets.No lines have to be pulled.The Stang bracket and a/c delete are the best options,and,the least likely to have issues.Buying a shorter belt puts you at risk due to the clearance,or lack there of,at the water pump pulley.Really,to swap on the Stang parts,you're looking at 30 minutes,including pulling the pulley to swap everything.Here's my Stang pump bracket and the FRPP delete kit......
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc205/Vinnietbird/DSCF7970.jpg)
I'm not sure if this method will work on the SO engine...I sold mine after I yanked it from the Sport so I can't *test* that idea...
I will eventually get a ac-delete setup once I get the rest of the car to "daily driver" status...just moving it in and out of the shop and up and down the driveway it's good enough for now.
BTW, priced a coupla belts just for grits and shins.....wow...they're expensive. Like 55 pin bucks...:hick:
The a/c delete kit will work on SO engine if you use the stang bracket.
I would just leave it there if your not willing to remove it. Unplug the plug on it and call it a day. My ac hasn't worked in 2 or more years and I have never had a problem.
True.Wait until you can or are willing to do it right the first time.Getting in a hurry is going to cause you some headaches.
So what's wrong with leaving the A/C compressor in place??? Unless you are actually using the A/C, it's just a idler pulley...
I put one of the Brackets you are looking for on a 1985 LTD police and was disappointed to learn that you still had to buy a new belt. The pulley is smaller. I purchased mine from a guy on Craigslist so I'm not sure where he got it from.
The reason I removed it is to remove all the hoses going to it. In these years the hoses run right over the spark plugs and make it very hard to work on the engine.
I just sold the LTD for $1,000 and got all kinds of calls. Maybe I sold it too cheap?
TED
It makes noise from time to time. I keep spraying it with penetrating lubricant to make it go away, but I feel like its just a matter of time. I don't want to have to buy a new compressor when this one goes, I'm kind of preparing for the future.
The idler bearing can generally be replaced, but last one I bought was around $30...
Un-huh, if it was good running and clean, you could have probably gotten $2500 or more... Don't be surprised if you see it back on C'list at a higher price...
There was a clean, 47K mi, '80 Chevy Malibu 2Dr on the local C'list, for $2500, two weeks later the new owner had it resisted for $4500...
Well I paid $400 for it so the lady before me sold it too cheap first.
It was an okay car, no dents or rust but it was 25 years old and needed work. The guy got a good clean project car.
TED
Not to side track this thread too much, but I paid $1000 for a wagon crown vic with no back seats because I couldn't find any decent 4-door anything. I would have easily paid $1000 for that car in that condition if it were out my way.
So, any ideas on what direction you're going with the a/c at this point?
Not sure. Just finished the intake gasket last night, when accelerating I hear a squeak, I'm assuming it's the compressor again, I'll spray it with ZEP-45 again, because it seems to quiet it down.
Was there any difference between hte 86 thunderbird S.O 5.0 and the 87 Thunderbird S.O. 5.0? The reason I ask Is I found this :http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR3/34163.oap?year=1985&make=Ford&model=F-150&vi=1121588&pt=03861&ppt=C0328
That may work.The bolt holes appear to be right in the picture.