I finally got mt 87 TC running, but it has a noise i fear the worst of, all though i don't think its bottom end. Anyway, I got a "ballpark" quote from a local rebuilder (cleveland, Ohio). It was $1200. I know i have no idea what was involved in what they quoted me but that does seem high to me. Anyone care to share the money the sepent on a rebuild?
You really need to know how they do rebuilds. Are they going to use all new parts or just replace what`s worn? Does that include labor to R&I the engine? How long is their guarantee? I`m a Ford dealer tech and we never do rebuilds like that. You`re always better off buying a rebuilt engine. Ford`s been offering a 3 year-36,000 mile warranty on their rebuilds. It`s unlikely a shop like that would give you more than a year guarantee. Also remember you get what you pay for. Hope this is useful.
Now that I think about it, you might want to look into a Jasper rebuild.
Be sure where ever you get the engine from/or have rebuild yours uses forged pistons. Correct, affordable pistons aren't available anymore, and some places are using the hyperutectic ones instead. They will not hold up to much punishment.
Thanks, the place i got a quote was Budget Engine Rebuilders, and they could be . I originally got the car as a parts car, put a half junk turbo on it and got it to run. I got swept up in tbird nostalgia as my first car was a 87 tbird sport. I'm bummed the engine is trashed but the rear sub-frame rails are toast. oh well.
Thanks jangus for the oil manifold by the way, if I forgot to do so before!
most all the crate rebuilders are using the the hyper pistons in there rebuilds....
you may be better off pulling the engine yourself and taking it apart and building it back yourself....
Well, what kind of noise? (since you never even described it)
Top end noise? 2.3T HLA (Hydraulic lash adjusters) can cause the valvetrain to tap a bit if they've been sitting or had a chance to bleed down a bit until they pump back up. Makes for all kinds of racket under the valve cover.
You claimed it wasn't a bottom-end noise, but didn't go into any more detail.
Kind of sounds like you just went, "OH no! It's making an odd noise. Must not be fixable, even though I don't know what's going on. Gues I'll just have it torn apart."
A badly worn cam can make more noise than two skeletons screwing on a tin roof, while using a tin can for a condom...
:rollin::rollin::rollin::rollin::rollin:
Hmm.. maybe mine isn't quite as bad as I thought then. oo; No funky noises from mine yet. *crosses fingers*
I just went the other day and got a quote on rebuilding a H.O. engine from a local machine shop that has a pretty good reputation in my area. Their quote was $1200 also. Thats rebuilding back to factory specs.
I just had my shortblock rebuilt and it cost 900...in addition the pistons cost me 600. Nothing fancy either, bored 030, align honed, re-sized rods new bolts. I had a knocking noise and it ended up being #3 piston slapping. I only had them screw the rods and crank together....everything else i still gotta do. If your block needs bored, plan on some bucks.
Lakenheath, sadly enough, a set of 8 small block (302) pistons costs LESS than a set of 4 for a 2.3. What brand piston was used in your motor? I plan on using Speed pro flat tops with a head that I'll open up the combustion chamber on to get the compression back down.
Jangus.
Believe me the thought crossed my mind! I got some forged .030 Weisco's from Racer Walsh. They were pretty though! I am taking this build slow, I have an HE-351 turbo I am building the motor around, so now that the shorty is done I am trying to figure out what, if anything, I need to do to the head. I am only wanting 325HP or so.
Honestly, for that kind of power, you just need a good 3 angle valve job and have the head surfaced flat. Having hardened exhaust seats put in while the head is off is a good idea.
Personally, if I have to pull a head off and have it redone, I'm opening the exhaust port up to 1.375" dia. on the exit side, only going into the port 1", hand blending the enlarged port into the bowl, work the short turn radius in the intake and exhaust ports, smooth the chambers and intake ports.