im having a idleing problem. it will idle up to about 1500 to 2000 sometimes. iv been trying to get it stright but i dont know what would cause it? if anyone has any tips that would be grate thanks
Vacuum lines, throttle position sensor, IAC... Run codes. The computer will tell you for us.
its not a vac line it would do it all the time. i replaced them and i pulled the codes and all i get is an egr and the stuff for the emeition.
next time it does it try pulling up on the gas pedal and see if it goes away.
Check your egr. Make sure its not stuck open.
iv tryed pulling on it and did nothing and i did not know that the egr could have anything to do with it?
Pulll the vac line off the top of the egr while the engine is running, see if that makes it go back to normal. If it does, check to make sure that line is fully intact, otherwise prolly time to replace the egr valve. If I know what I'm talking about anyway.
Mine runs pretty normal w/ or w/out it on, but the motor wont function if the line gets blocked, so if your egr valve is sticking or something to that effect, that should tell you.
i pulled the egr off and its not geting stuck.
This may sound silly, hae you checked your thermostat? I know not haing one or having one thats stuck open can cause a high idle problem in some cars
when i pulled the motorr out i put a brand new one in
What about your TPS and IAC?
it has a new tps. is the iac the same of the bypass on the side of the throtle?
I drove for almost 1 year with no thermostat. Well a lack of thermostat would be a better way to put it. Car never got over two bars on the digi dash. Old thermostat was rusted out and was dug out of the lower intake in pieces. The car would just always think its running cold, because it was. I don't see what that would do with high idle?
How were the emissions deleted? How far out is your idle screw? What is the voltage on the TPS? The IAC is right behind the throttle body on the front side of the motor.
To set idle, if your TPS voltage is good through all voltage ranges.
unplug battery for at least 10 minutes. start car, unplug IAC. set screw to desired RPM. If you cannot get it low enough, either the TPS is bad, or you have leaks(I have seen intake gaskets leak, spray carb cleaner or starting fluid to test for leaks.). Plug back in the IAC. If the motor dies, it is more likely then not the IAC.
it dose not idle up high all the time. sometimes it will and sometimes it wont. dose not matter if its cold or hot out or rain or not. just dose it when it wants to. and what dose iac mean?
idle air controler. The ECU can affect timing to control idle under certain situations. Every one here is trying to help. Your coming up with reasons why we shouldn't.
tell me how im comeing up with resones why you should not help im asking quitions on stuff i dont know and telling you stuff that iv done already?
if you think i am then dont bother to say anything then. your the only one so far that seems to have a problem.
wrong, not all vac lines are direct fed from the crank case. some are solenoid operated so therefore if the predetermined time in which the solenoid should/should not get power drives the fact if the vac line is either on line or not.
what are the codes?
what is the fuel presure while driving and during transmission shifts
is the inside of the FPR vac line damp?
a fuel pump acting up can also cause these symptoms and the only thing that may trigger a code is if for some reason you see various lean/rich codes on injectors.
get a couple cans of carb cleaner like mentioned and waste them along the vac lines and along the intake as well as underside.
it sounds like your not really familiar with this era of fords, takes some getting use to to realize they are not all that complicated.
the only codes it had when i pulled the coeds was for the map, egr, and 2 to do somthing with the emitions.
Next time it does it. Leave it running and give the IAC a firm thunk with the back of the screwdriver. If it drops back down to normal, you need to clean your IAC.
i have replace the iac in just the last few weeks. o and about the fpr thats good iv checked that a few months back when i had to put a new pump in.
If you un-plug it does it settle back down to the base idle?
i have not tryed it when it idles up high yet. but the car dose not idle high all the time dose it when it wants to
just so you know, the map sensor basically makes the car run. If the vacuum line is pulled off, your car thinks that it always has no vacuum and will throw all the gas at it that it can trying to keep the car running.
Either that vacuum line is bad, or your sensor is screwed or you have a broken wire. MAP=car running.
Run codes, write them down, then tell us what they are.
No, not to ~3000, but I have seen with my own eyes my bud's s-10 that would constantly idle ~8-900, and we could never figure out why. One day, he decides its time swap out a couple of nasty looking rad hoses, pops one off, no tstat! So, put one in, and now idles down where it should be.
We figured maybe it was because it always thought it was cold, so it was confused, running richer and causing rpm's to go up so it could warm up faster.
mine cuts off completely if I do that heh heh
but it was giving me problems too when I first got the car. I took it off and sprayed wd40 inside to clean it out (cause I was fresh outta carb cleaner) and that made all well again. course it only lasted a few weeks. did that about 3 more times, and just went out and bought a new one!
yeah, the line that runs to mine started to rot out about a year ago, took me forever what was causing it to act up, but when I found that, problem solved.
And if you detach it... oh boy.........