For those of you who have done the swap from AOD to T-5 (excluding the Turbo Coupes...). Here are a few tips on a T56 swap.
There are three styles of tail shafts on a T56. GM, Mustang Cobra (from a modular motor) and Ford Motorsport/Hurst Driveline Conversions (3 3/4" bolt spacing).
The crossmember seems to be a big question for most: Crossmembers are available through AJE (Anthony Jones Engineering). The cost was $159 plus shipping. Please note: there are other options, particularly if you have welding skills or access to someone who does. The crossmember brackets can be moved rearward and rewelded to use the original double hump unit (supposedly 96-98 Mustang Cobra's had bolt on crossmember brackets which could be used, but I was unable locate any to confrim it.) If you choose to move the brackets or use the Cobra one's, sub frame connectors may be in the way (if you have them installed). Or there is a complete kit from D&D (including trans).
The crossmember must match the tail shaft, so it's important to know which one you have.
The crossmember offered by AJE is a solid mount (the trans bolts directly to the crossmember).
AJE is in the process of coming up with a universal unit to work with all style tail shafts, but as of last month, they still had three separate ones (all the same part number, so it can confuse the warehouse and you may receive the wrong one, but it'll be quickly and courtously taken care of).
Should your T56 be a 10 spline unit (rated at 450 lbs of torque), the swap is very simple. Pull the T-5 (75 lbs), get a trans jack and load up the T56 (120 lbs). Mount the bell housing, jack the trans into place, install the crossmember.
A modular motored piece will need a windsor style bell housing. These are pretty hard to find. Quick Time makes one, but it adds about $500 to the swap.
If you have the heavy duty version with the 26 spline input, a new clutch disc is required.
I have the Ford Motorsport/Hurst Driveline Conversion unit (these are available through Summit). It was 1 3/8" longer than the T-5. It ran $130 to shorten and balance my driveshaft.
Wiring for the speedo will have to be lengthened, due to the pick location on the opposite side of the trans.
A T56 has an electric solenoid for the reverse lock out. In a late model car, this is activated by the computer when the vehicle is moving at 5 MPH and below. It can be addressed in a number of ways: 1. Purchase a connector (about $12 on e-Bay) and wire it to your brake light switch. 2. Pull the solenoid and pull the guts out or make a plug to fill the hole. 3. Force it past the solenoid when you want to get reverse (I hear it takes two hands and maybe a knee...).
I pulled the guts on the solenoid. You have to be carefull engaging 5th gear, too far and it grinds into reverse. Update: I do not recommend pulling the guts on the selenoid! It is an absolute PITA to engage 5th without hitting reverse. A simple alternate is to pull the sping, cut 1.5 coils and reinstall. The greatly reduces the amount of effort to engage reverse, but provides enough resistance to never hit reverse when slamming into 5th!
The T56 is a much tighter trans than a T-5 (I had the Z-Spec). Shifting is very precise, much harder to miss third gear. It's a very nice piece!
The extra gear is nice for those "intermediate" cruising speeds, but the biggest benefit is the greater torque rating for those who's power level is above the T-5's rating.
Mark
Mark,
Thanks for the write up. You answered a lot of questions that I had but wasn't at a place where I needed to answer it yet.
I'm not sure if I asked you this, but do you know how long your drive shaft is U-joint to U-joint?
Thanks again
Jeff
Jeff,
The driveshaft is 47 3/4" center to center of the u-joints.
Another update on the position of the crossmember: It raised the tail shaft pretty high in my car, which caused the driveline angle to be thrown off, resulting in a vibration. I will drill new holes in the mounting brackets, to lower it about 1/2" and see if it takes care of it.
I should have realized it may be a problem as when I attempted to install the driveshaft with the trans up in place, I could not slide the yolk into the transmission. It had to be dropped to achieve an angle which allowed it to slide in.
This may or may not be a problem on another car. I have Chuck W.'s poly mounts. They have dropped the engine a bit compared to the stockers (don't know how much, didn't measure before & after, just noticed on the fitment of the headers and the greater distance of the intake & strut tower brace). Different K-members may also have an affect on this issue.
Just something to be aware of as you get your's together.
Did you get a crown vic intercepter DS? They're aluminum and 48" long weld to weld and are around $50 at junkyards.
I wasn't aware of the Crown Vic driveshaft dimensions, certainly an option.
At 48" you might get lucky and not have to cut it. The only way to tell is try it. The cost to have mine cut & balanced was $130.
I suspect you'll have to find a hybrid U-joint to mate the 31 spline yolk to the Crown Vic shaft.
I have a heavy duty 3 1/2" custom unit w/1330 U-joints, which I purchased from a former board member.
I have heard that the T-56 is much larger in diameter in comparison to the T-5. Did you notice this and were there any challenges with regards to this on the installation. I currently have a Tremec TKO in my '83 and have always thought about installing a T-56 for the OD with the 4.10 gears.
Darren
There is no doubt the T56 is bigger dimensionally in every way, but it fits in the trans tunnel with no issues.
There are a couple different gear ratios for a T56. Running a 4.10 or larger ring gear, you may want the .50 sixth gear. I am running the roughly the same sixth gear as the Z spec T5 5th gear (.63). It keeps the gear spacing a bit tighter from 4th to 5th (.80).
Was just making sure. We just bought a Magnum T-56 to put in my father's '69 Mustang FB and you have to cut up the trans tunnel to do it which is pretty easy in those older cars. Its not something I would want to do in a street car like my Bird.
Darren
What ratio are you running in the rear? Does it seem suitable?
I've swaped to a 3.55, which I find to be great combination. I had run a 3.73 with the T5 and found myself wanting to upshift to 5th in town driving (35-40 MPH) = BOG! The 3.55 keeps it comfortable at those speeds in 4th gear. The T56 the upshift to the .80 5th gear is still an option without the huge rpm drop of the Z spec T5. The slight RPM drop on the highway was also a plus.
The first gear 2.97 with the 3.55 rear, still gives a 10.54 launch ratio. Something gear heads in the 60's & 70's would have died for!
The Viper spec T56 which has .74 fifth and .50 Sixth has a 2.66 first gear. Running a 4.10+ rear gear with that trans makes sense to keep the launch ratio above 10.0 (as well as keeping 6th gear from being pretty worthless).
The new magnums have changed the ratio's to 2.97 first w/.74 fifth and .50 sixth and 2.66 first w/.80 fifth and .63 sixth.
Looks like the current Hurst and the D&D T56 trannies are the same.
2.97/2.07/1.43/1.00/0.74/0.50 - TUET-11011
2.66/1.78/1.30/1.00/0.80/0.62 - TUET-11010
Stifflers offers a T56 crossmember that isn't hard mounted. You can move it back/forward a decent bit. Wonder if it works for all three tailshaft housings? http://buystifflers.com/1982-1993MustangTransmissionCrossmemberT45andT56Tremec.aspx
As of a year ago, the D&D crossmember was only available as a part of their install kit. You couldn't buy it separately.
If the Crown Vic driveshafts are 31 splines (which may be the case from a quick search), would it fit the output shaft w/o issue (assuming the length was okay)?
Mark, what ratios are in your T56? You have a dyno plot of your engine before your current project? Would like to throw it in my wheel force vs speed spreadsheet.
Hey Jeremy! Hope to see you at Greg's on 4th of July weekend.
I've purchased the Stifler crossmember (ck my thread "a few upgrades" for pics).
I now have the AJE unit & the hard to find SBF bell housing available.
The first four ratios in my trans are the same as in the first part number listed and 5th & 6th are what's in the second one. (The current ratios seem whacky to me)
I am not aware the Crown Vic drive shafts have a 31 spline input, and am suspect of that information.
I do have a plot from the Dyno run at Greg's from the fall of 2011. PM me your email address, I'll sent it to you tomorrow.
Yes, looking forward to ThunderCat day!
A bit more googling assures me they (Crown Vics) have 28 splines, not 31.