Wassup everyone, my name is Tim(some call me Mike). Anyway..as u can see I'm new to the site. I currently own a 01 Acura CL-Type S as my everyday get around vehicle. I'm looking at a 87 Turbocoupe Tbird for sell. I might get it, this would be my first project car and turbo at that(noob). I wanted to get some insight on what are some key things to look at about this vehicle. I do have knowledge of cars and working with them but this is something different. Thanks in advanced...
Welcome. Good to have ya!
On top of the normal things you look for in a 20+ year old used car, for one thing see if its the stock turbo. Check for shaft play if you can, ask him if the seals have been replaced or if the stock turbo has been rebuilt. And also do a compression test :). Check the oil and oil leaks, under the hood look and see if the hoses and lines are worn/crack, check and see if the exhaust mani is cracked (they get pretty darn hot), check the brakes as best as you can visually, the idle shouldn't be surging or super low probably should idle around 750 (I'm not sure I personally never drove a turbo coupe). When you drive the car and it bogs and sputters and falls on its face then you know something is wrong. I don't know much about the 2.3 but I heard they are pretty hardy motors. It should have some pep in its step once it goes into boost.
That's all I can think of at the moment being that its so late.
Good luck hun :)
Thanks mam :)
I will be sure to tell, once I check it out later on today.
Welcome!
Your welcome. I would come with you but I will be with my dad all day until he does better.
I understand, I will see if one of my friends will go along.
One thing I have found is useful is just judging the reaction of the person selling the car if you ask if it is okay if you have it inspected by a mechanic before you decide on purchasing. If they are hesitant or give excuses, it is usually because they're hiding something. Also, if they have owned the car for a while, just gauging how much knowledge the person has about the car they are selling can tell you a lot about the condition of it, especially the things you may not be able to visually inspect. Other than that, all of the things CobraGurl mentioned should be on any car shopper's check list.
If the engine looks well taken care of, and the transmission shifts fine, no noises etc (hopefully it'll have the T5, NOT the auto)
the things to look for will be rust in the strut towers, on the bottom edges of the doors, the underside of the trunk lip, and all the usual places you'd look on about any car for the stuff.
Then again...how much snow does Virginia get? :hick:
Welcome aboard...this place is like an online bible for Fox CatBirds :D
The 2.3L should idle smoothly around 800-1000 rpm. If it has the 5-speed, run the rpm up to around 3500 in second gear - the engine should sound tight with no goofy noises or lags. Get it up into 4th or 5th gear and them floor the accelerator - you should hear the turbocharger kick in (you should hear a LITTLE bit of whine as it spins up) and the turbo boost gauge should come up smoothly). Move the steering wheel just a LITTLE from side to side about 40mph - the car should respond immediately with no play in the steering wheel. Other than the rust spots to check about mentioned above, these should tell you what shape the engine and turbo are in. I own an '86 XR7 Turbo and have driven several over the years. If the car hasn't been cared for, the turbo is usually one of the first things that start acting up. Also, with a Turbo, I get the oil changed every 3,000 miles and use nothing but Castrol 20/50 in it year round and NEVER drive it until the engine has warmed up (especially in winter). Synthetic would probably be even better but it's pricey and my girl has over 233,000 on her so I'm REALLY careful about oil changes ;-)
It doesn't snow very heavy in our part of VA but it floods!
From my knowledge when it comes to fuel injected cars is that you don't have to wait for them to warm up to drive them. With boosted cars you can hop in and drive them but stay out of boost until its warm. Now when your getting out the car you should let it sit and idle before cutting it off but that's why we have turbo timers. But I could be wrong, I am only human.
Also the frame rails behind the towers, torque box area, and front gas tank mounting brackets.
Welcome
any other places there could be rust Jerry?
I forgot to mention that the transmission went out on this vehicle(about a week ago from what the owner says) but its adds to everything that has to be taken into consideration. I appreciate everyones insight, and will have some more questions/info once I check it out.
So it's an auto car? Bummer...I'd throw in a T5 if it was mine ;)
I'd also let the engine warm up a minute or 2 after starting regardless of turbo or not.
There's a guy I work with who revs the hell out of his engine on startup....just in the last few weeks, it's been smoking pretty hard when he starts it. I told him he's tearing it up, all he says "I don't care." Idiot. :D:punchballs:
He says when it blows up he'll put another 350 in it....yeah right. Can't even change his own oil or plugs! :hick:
If nothing else, let the oil pressure get built up before taking off ;)
I vote for the 5sp swap also.
I have a t-5 from my dads old 89 5.0 stang sitting in the garage if you need it. That's if it will work behind a 2.3 I also have a couple garret turbo's laying around you can have for the right price except the t-88's I don't think your ready for those yet.
Haha yeah its auto, at least for the moment. The tranny is done so it needs to be replaced. If I choose to get it, why not do a 5spd swap? Btw that guy sounds like an idiot lol.
I helped a buddy out with a 5sp swap in a mitsubishi and it was a PITA. Are these cars being that they are older easier to swap from auto to manual? Also, how about shift kits for the auto's?
The T5 from a V8 Mustang may not work, as I think there's a difference in the of the input shaft. That, and the gearing will leave a lot to be desired, as the 2.3t T5's had a deeper first..
Wish I still had the one I sold about a year ago...although shipping would be a beeyotch to where you are lol
The 2.3 bell bolt pattern is different from the V6/V8's, so if you can use a V8 T5, you'll need a TC bell.....since the '87-'88 used a hydraulic clutch, you'll probably have to swap in all that stuff.
you'll need:
pedals from '87-93 5 speed Mustang
clutch cable
pre-'87 TC T5 bell (XR7 will work too)
flywheel and blockplate from a 5 speed TC
obviously a clutch ;)
There's probably a couple things I'm forgetting, but that's the gist of it.
If you search for a4ld to t5 swap in the drivetrain section, I'm sure you'll come up with a lot more and better info :D
Luckily for Mike I'm sure "pick-n-pull" has a couple cougars and tbirds. Also there's a shop in Yorktown off of production drive that specializes in fox platform cars.
Also, is this the car you speak of? I assume so.
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1643496910.html
Have you seen these?
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1647582309.html
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1659785404.html
:)
Luckily for Mike I'm sure "pick-n-pull" has a couple cougars and tbirds. Also there's a shop in Yorktown off of production drive that specializes in foxbody cars.
Also, is this the car you speak of? I assume so.
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1643496910.html
Have you seen these?
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1647582309.html
http://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/1659785404.html
:)
Jayda your assumption is correct, that is the one I speak of. I have actually "hit up" the person about the first link of the second question you ask. I have to wait til I go to work, to see what was said back if anything. I haven't seen the second one. That swap is gonna take A LOT of work if I were to go thru with it. But we will see.
What?
Thanks for the info, something indeed to look into. With so little time I have right now, with a possible deployment. Well see how this goes though.