Don't misconstrue the title to this thread, I want to stiffen up the suspension on my Cougar. I have a modest budget so I'm really trying to find out what's out there.
I've done some searching and reading, but to be honest there is never a clear yes or no answer, just a bunch of debate. If I wanted to switch to a more performance oriented suspension what would be the best angle of attack? I've read that you can possibly use the SN95 springs, but are they the best choice? Lowering the car a couple of inches is fine. What choices are there for strut/shocks? Which end links should I get? I'm not looking to drop thousands of dollars into suspension alone nor am I looking for an autocross legend. I just want to car to feel a bit more agile because the car will mostly just be street driven.
It's the wrong section for it, but how much work does it take to install a Mustang 8.8 into one of these cars? I know the Mustangs axles are shorter, anyway to remedy this? Any other problems? The closest TC 8.8 is ~150 miles away and they want $400 so that's not really an option unless I can look a little harder find one locally.
If your looking to stiffen things up.. I would put subframe connectors on it
Agreed,then che adjustable rear control arms,energy poly front bushings,sn95 mach1 springs.
There is no real point in installing an 8.8 in your car unless your turning some serious hp or just want the shorter gears.
You can install the stang 8.8 and either get 1/2" wheel spacers with longer studs or custom offset rims.
then if your going that far.... Install a set of battle boxes.... No sense in having a handfull of spotwelds holding your rear end on after doing all that.
A rear swaybar too
here you go, everything listed above minus the adjustable arms.
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/paint%20and%20body/IMG_5466.jpg)
I've been looking at them. I'd rather have the ones that weld in so I'll have to find a place to weld 'em in since I don't have a welder. Any particular kind I should get?
I'm assuming the bushing kits sold for Mustangs work fine with our cars. What all bushings should I replace? What if I can't find Mach 1 springs? What would be a few good alternatives? I may stick with the 7.5 until I can locate a TC rear end. That would give me a more feasible reason, besides strength, to install an 8.8.
On the subject of springs would either M-5300-B (http://"http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=271") or M-5300-C (http://"http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=272") be good choices?
My 20th already has both a front and rear sway bar, they probably need new end links by now though. Which end links would you recommend?
You don't need anything expensive and fancy. 2x tubing will be your best bet. I used 2x2 and cut them through the floor. 2x 1-1/2 would probably fit without cutting the floor.
I still have stock end links. If your changing your bushings the poly type will squeak like mad. I got them on the vert. the noisiest things ever
(http://unchealthcare.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/puppies.jpg)
Now that's what I'm talkin' 'bout! That'll work great. I didn't know what it was until I clicked the picture and hit properties, puppies.jpg. :rollin:
here is extreme overkill.
I've got about 5000 pics, and I couldn't find one of them on the car.
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/IMG_3556.jpg)
I was thinking about what to with with my old Bird when I get into rebuilding the suspension and replacing worn parts. However, I just do not need to go to some of these extremes. I am thinking the right springs, struts, shocks, sway bars and bushings should do enough of what I would like to do. I am very spoiled by the way my 08 Mustang handles.
Don't worry about the rear swaybar, it mounts directly to the rear arms with NO bushings.
Do you want a softer ride, or a firmer, and some noise/squeaks?
You can go to a bigger front, but that's dependent on what you have on there now.
As for Energy Suspension, I'm putting the bushings, endlinks, and spring isolators in mine...I can post the part #'s if you'd like...
Look on the Corral for SN-95 springs...there's usually something up for sale.
Firmer no matter the cost. If I have to deal with a few squeaks I'm fine with it.
I'll probably pull both sway bars and paint them up nice and install new end links for the front. If you've got the part numbers handy by all means post 'em up. Would just regular ole' GT (SN95) springs offer much of an upgrade?
I'm trying to find some spindles locally right now so I can do the 11" brake upgrade. With the spindles and the aftermarket strut mounts I'll be able to use SN95 struts up front, right?
I have done to my car what you want to do to yours: the poly front bushings, CHE adjustabnle rears, TC front and rear say bar, 3.55 8.8" TC rear, 11" front brakes, subframe connectors, all new shocks and struts (stock type) and Mach 1 springs. I love the stance, I love the way it handles, but I hate the ride. I went too far with stiffening and made it way too rough (you can run over a dime and tell whether it's heads or tails). I will someday take the front end apart and install stock style busings in the control arms to get my ride back. I may try adding some sound deadener to see if that helps (I think most of the roughness is perceived through noise). Either that or I'll pray that they repave the road I live on.
But yeah, if you do all of what I've done you'll be AMAZED at the handling. The car corners perfectly flat and sticks to the road like it's glued down. It's hard to believe something so big and heavy can feel so "tossable". I just wish it didn't ride so rough. I can only imagine how well some other cars on this forum whose owners have gone a lot farther than I have handle...
Your right about the handling. The vert handles the same way. I can easily take a corner at 50+ mph like it's nothing. And I have the 17" cobra wheels that seem to stick like duct tape to the road. but like you say I can feel everything on the road. during fall time, leaves on the road seemed bumpy. :hick:
Yeah, poly front control arm bushings aren't for those with delicate "sensibities", or who like to preserve the ride feel. As mentioned, you will feel every hair on the road you run over.
The "B" & "C" kit rear springs have no place on a Tbird/Cougar, so don't use them. They are far too weak. The "C" kits fronts are a good choice, and I use them all the time. The "B"s belong in the trash. As discussed, Mach 1 or Bullitt springs are a good choice.
Jerry, SFCs are never overkill on a Fox.
To the OP, search around. We've discussed suspension stuff quite a bit here, so you're not covering new ground.
Some Mach 1 springs are going to be the next thing I acquire...I love to hear that it'll ride like a Stock Car....I give 2 shiznits less about ride quality. I have a Caprice that's like driving the couch to town, if I need a butt cushion with a steering wheel attached.... :hick:
FloridaCougar, stay tuned for those part #'s....I just woke up :hick:
(i work second shift)
Here's what I have.
End links: ES part # 98119
front lower arm: #43123
I'm looking for spring isolators, and since I was on their site, here's the page for '88 Tbirds:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Ford+Thunderbird+1988
Enjoy...and you're welcome! ;)
Daminc, I am new to this thread, but I am wondering where you got the subframe connectors you pictured in one of your previous posts. Were they custom made?
He made them himself.
yes, I made them. I also have the plans if you want them.
You can make simple sub-frame connectors that are cheap and easy.
I used a bar of 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch and some flat stock and welded it in. If I did it again I would use 2x1 or 1 1/2 and it would be a bit easier to line up.
These make a big improvement in stiffness. You can jack up the car on one corner and the doors still work great.
TED
Here you go edgar_g1
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_4101.jpg)
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_4102.jpg)
here's the weld along the entire frame and inner rocker and seat braces. I actually replacer the seat bolts with grade 8 bolts washers and nuts when I installed the seats. I also used larger diameter bolts on my seats. I think I used 5/8" or 3/4"
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_4098.jpg)
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_4099.jpg)
cut through the floor, welded and seam sealed
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_4096.jpg)
Here's the car being jacked up by the 1" outer rail under the rocker lip. (doors still worked fine)
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_3627.jpg)
I am pondering...is ride quality mostly determined by
springs or
bushings?
I am considering poly
GRAphite bushings, but I dont want harshness as bad as you have. My springs will be MOOG 8600 or 8598's with Tokico blues.
I'm thinking bushings are the major factor. My springs are stock Ford pieces (albeit for a Mach 1). I've also heard of others who have used bone stock springs with poly bushings and had noisy results.