I went out the other day to start the Cougar and it was completely dead. I pulled the bettery, quite confused by the battery's totally dead state after sitting for just a little over a week, and connected it to my battery charger - nothing, 0 volts, time for a new battery. I hauled the three year old Everstart to AutoZone and picked up a bohemoth, the Duralast Gold DLG-65 (850 CCA / 1000 CA). Decided to change the positive battery cable since it wasn't in the best of condition and bought a coated terminal for the negative side. I guess these cars came stock with 1 GA battery cable? After listening to the guy at the part store blabber on about how I didn't need the 1 GA and how 4 GA would work fine, I bought the 1 GA cable anyway, 15 bucks. Finally got everything nice and tight and sat down to crank her up! I cycled the key a few times and cranked her up, after it started the oil pressure gauge read the minimum. Turned it off and restarted it, again nothing. In the past I've had the oil pressure gauge do this, I just figured it was the sender because it obviously had plenty of oil pressure. Usually restarting the car would fix the gauge, but I tried that a few times and still got nothing. Since the car has been sitting for a short while I'm kind of anxious to just let her rip without any idea of how much oil pressure there is, even if I know there is plenty. I guess it's time for a new sender unless anyone else has any ideas and believe me when I say, I'm all ears!
I've read through some threads and I want to make sure I buy the right sender so I can get an accurate reading. I know most stock gauges are just dummy lights and give no real indication of value, I also know I'd be better off just picking up an aftermarket gauge. My plan for the car was to mount transmission pressure and transmission temp gauges where the stock equalizer was so if I can get away with using the stock gauge I'd rather do that since space for gauges is tight. I have the fully digital dash. What is the part number for the oil pressure sender I need? How big of a job is it to replace the sender?
While I've got this thread here I have a few more questions. I read alot about the power steering whine and how common it is. I also read that even replacement pumps sometimes make alot of racket. My pump makes a decent amount of noise and I'm just about fed up with it. I found out that you can use the early-90's Econoline saginaw pump on 5.0 Mustangs, but it requires fabrication of brackets. Instead of going that route, how many of you have replaced your pumps and what brand did you go with? Does it make any noise?
How do y'all usually clean your engine bays? Mines covered with dust, grime, dirt, oil, it's pretty bad looking and I've been wanting to clean it, but I'm worried about getting the wrong thing wet. I still have to fix a few wires under the hood with shrink wrap since the previous owner thought using wire nuts was a good idea, but other than that I've always worried about cleaning it up real nice and then it not starting afterwards. Also, what do you recommend for oxidation? The S.O. plate on the upper has seen better days and has some oxidation forming.
I also have a few questions about my transmission, I know this really isn't the right place for them, but I figure if I've got your attention maybe I can get all of my questions answered in one thread. It shifts fine now, but I was going to spend a few dollars to possibly increase it's lifespan. Since I'm unsure of the car's maintenance past, or mileage for that matter, I've been a little leery about changing the fluid. I do however want to add a good cooler, deep pan, and maybe replace the valve body. What type of cooler do you recommend? What size should I get? Should I disconnect the stock cooler (radiator) and run just the new cooler or run both? How many of you have swapped to the deep transmission pan? Is there a real difference in operating temperature? I'm eyeing the TCI pan which adds 3 quarts capacity and has cooling fins. I'm also looking at the TCI Streetfighter valve body. Would I be better off with the TransGo shift kit or getting the valve body? The way I'm looking at it is less wear and tear and firmer shifts never hurt anyone.
Alright. That about wraps up my questions. Sorry for the novel up there, once I get to movin' my fingers they dont want to stop.
Thanks in advance.
For the oil pressure sending unit, see here: http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=26435
It wouldn't hurt to by an actual tester so you know what the pressure is as well.
I found one on Advance Auto Parts website. I entered the Cougar and it was listed as a compatible part, atleast it was listed in the replacement parts. Would this one work?
ACDelco Oil Pressure Switch/Sender (http://"http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Oil-Pressure-Switch-Sender-ACDelco_18051341-P_2590_R%7CGRPSESWAMS_994463732___")
It says "ALL MAKES; W/ELECTRONIC INST CLUSTER 1 INCH DIA HOUSING" in the description.
When I had my 87 cougar, I mounted a small oil pressure gage in the right-lower piece below the steering wheel (where the Premium Fuel / Ride Control switches are on a TurboCoupe). A small gage fits there nice, and can be serviced with just 2 screws.
Couple of questions. If I were to go aftermarket.
What should I do about the stock gauge? Low oil pressure warning would be annoying.
Where on the motor should I hook the gauge up at? The stock sender's location? Where exactly is that? The manual I've got for the car doesn't show the location of the V8's oil pressure switch/sender, just the V6's as far as I can tell.
The sender is located just above the oil filter :D
I am probably shooting in the dark here but I wanted to mention an overlooked possibility. Not long ago I replaced the starter selenoid on the fenderwell and I inadvertantly left off one of the terminal eyelets that attached to one of the large posts since there were about four attached together. I was having gauge/idiot light problems suddenly after i replaced the selenoid switch and reattaching that loose connection fixed it.
I figured since you mentioned that you replaced the battery cable that it would be a good idea to check behind it just in case...
(http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/classic-tech/77964d1252191820-what-markings-original-66-70-mustang-oil-pressure-sending-unit-k_s-oil-sender.jpg)
Take the cable off of the sender and ground it. This will make the gage read max, and you'll never hear the warning again :)
I'd almost bet that it's a wiring issue. Intermittent function to begin with and then finally, after I mess with the cable, no function at all. It's very possible that it's wiring is made up of severals piece of wire and connected via conectors or some other stupid s#!t like that (thank the previous owner for that). I'll go clean the terminal and all connections and trace the wires and fix it.
Thanks V8Demon, that's a good picture for reference.
FWIW -- it IS tied into a couple of other things......Turning the heat on in my car for instance will make it read HIGHER......
It's always done that in the 12 years that I've owned the car.
Hopefully soon we'll see if it's the wiring. I went to the part store and picked up some 12GA and 14 GA wire, connectors, heat shrink wrap and a 16GA fusible link. I couldn't locate a 12GA fusible link to replace the one on the car. Any ideas? It's supposed to rain tomorrow so I may or may not get to fix it. If I end up fixing the wires and I still don't have oil pressure reading on the gauge I'll probably just ground out the stock gauge and buy an aftermarket one. I was thinking that these wires could possibly have something to do with the lights behind my gauges not functioning too. They've worked maybe 4-5 times in the past intermittently, but never consistantly. The radio has always had some kind of short too, you can hear the engine running through the speakers even when it's off. The volume also has a short. This car is full of electrical gremlins that I've never had time to track down. Maybe fixing these wires we'll yeild some good results. I'm thinking of grabbing a new starter solenoid for the hell out of so everything we'll have a clean connection, found one for 6 bucks.
I have spent a lot of time on the couple of clusters that I have been working with. One problem I have found is that with age, the copper contacts on the ribbon circuit where the gauge cluster wiring harness connector plugs in has a tendancy to seperate from the clear plastic ribbon material or get crinkled or bent away from the point of contact with the pins on the connector plug. I had to put super glue on quite a few to keep them in posotion and I gently sed the contacts so that the copper is shiney for a good connection. Doing this a couple of problems I was having with idiot lights and fuel gauge operation. I still have a problem with the BRAKE light working when it feels like it no matter which cluster was installed. It used to be on all the time when the parking brake was set. I have not isolated that problem yet.
Fixed the wires today and the oil pressure gauge is now functional! I'm trying to iron out few other problems now. The interior lights pulsate, I'm thinking it could be a ground so I'll be checking them tomorrow, if it doesn't rain. I noticed that when I hit the brake pedal they almost altogether quit pulsating. The alternator is remanuafactered, but it was on the car when I bought it a couple of years ago. I've also got a few vacuum lines to replace since one is totally missing on the passenger side right next to the firewall and one that connects to the upper intake manifold has come apart. Next will be possibly pulling the cluster to see if I can fix the lights because using a flashlight is getting old.
What???
I don't think that's normal as mine does not do that.
Kinda hard to explain it really -- only does it with the heat on HI.
An example -- depending on a few factors (temp., running time, etc.) my gauge may fluctuate between 5 and 6 bars on the digi dash. Turning the heat to HI will make it read a constant 6.....Turning it off will cause it to fluctuate again.
When I had the chime issue, it would sometimes alleviate it.
If the gauge is @ a steady 5 bars now it won't push it to 6......
I have more grounds in this car than I know what to do with as well.....They're all in good condition as well.
Hmm perhaps there is a problem with the gauge cluster in your car. Have you tried to swap in another cluster just for fun?
The interior lights pulsating stopped after I replaced one vacuum line. I'm guessing it was because I bumped the wiring for the alternator so I'll have to check all of that. I fixed one vacuum line that was coming off of the upper intake manifold and going to some kind of canister-like sensor that has a connector with two wires under the air box on the passenger side. What is that? It didn't have vacuum for a while and the car ran fine so I'm just curious as to what that is exactly. I got that vacuum line replaced and I have the one below temporarily fixed with some 3/16 fuel line (which is too big). Does anyone know what size ID vacuum line I need in the spot below?
(http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/9760/vacuumhose.jpg)
Cluster's been checked over 6 ways from Sunday. Carm explained a feasible reason as to why it most likely happens a while back.
I'm pretty sure Carm knows more than I could ever hope to know about electronics so if he says it's ok then it has to be:D
I know it's for the emissions control system. I pulled that stuff off of my car about 3 years ago (except the EGR and the canister purge for the gas vapors) so I'm going by memory but I think it's for the thermactor. Do you have a picture of what the lines connect to under the air box?
The canister under the air box is just that. It's your charcoal canister that connects to the canister purge solenoid. When the CP solenoid opens it removes the vapors that are stored in the charcoal canister (which are from the gas tank) and these vapors are sucked into the intake manifold.
It will open during warm cruise and deceleration.
Should look like this:
(http://img76.imageshack.us/img76/6558/dscn06431ub.jpg)
As far as your vacuum lines, I can't remember the exact size, but I DO know what works in a pinch.......fishtank airline tubing. It actually fits over the stock smaller lines and you can use it to connect 2 broken ends. I've used it in the past to troubleshoot vacuum issues concerning fluids in vacuum systems as well.....The stuff runs about $2 for an 8 foot length. The line that is circled and to the left in the picture you posted....does it run to the frame rail and go through it?
I just went and checked, I didn't notice it when I replaced the vacuum line, but the other side of the solenoid where the other line connects is broke off. Would it be alright to just cap this off or should I replace the solenoid?
It runs along the firewall and goes to either the upper intake or something under it. I can't really tell because of the lack of room between the firewall and the intake manifold.
I meant the picture's left; not the car's left. Just want to make sure we're talking about the same line.
As far as the solenoid -- Since it's open I would imagine it's throwing a code. The car will run perfectly fine with it. I'd replace it.
Which side is busted? From the canister or to the manifold?
I'll check that vacuum line in a few minutes. The side going from the purge solenoid to the canister is busted.
EDIT: Since it's about 35 outside I'll check the line tomorrow.
Few questions here.
First, the oil pressure issue doesn't seem to be as fixed as I previously thought. I hopped in today and the oil pressure is screwing with me. First start yeilded no pressure showing on the gauge, it started working a few seconds after the second start and then quit working again! I hit the cluster a few times and maybe that's been the problem the whole time. The lights for the cluster haven't hardly ever worked, the mileage doesn't show (it just says ERROR), and now with this problem I'm beginning to think I may just need to replace the cluster itself to fix everything! Thoughts? How hard is it to pull the cluster?
Second, the heat in my car hasn't worked since I bought it. Heater core? :(
Third, how big of a job is it to replace the valve cover gaskets? The Haynes manual doesn't even mention removing the intake manifold, throttle body, or anything like that. Is it really that easy of a job?
In one short answer yes and no.
Have you hooked up a real gauge to read the real oil pressure?
My cluster has never read error anywhere on it. The oil pressure sensor has also not worked correctly since I have owned the car. The lights and cluster can be replaced very easily. I would pull the cluster out and make sure that the factory plastic printed circuits are not broken or missing.
Intake manifold is not to hard, but make sure you know how all the vacuum lines hook up. You will need to pull the intake to get to the valve covers. I just did the valve covers on my car. On one side the gasket was doubled up and there was blue silicone everywhere. I spent quite a bit of time sing off old gasket material, and it was very hard to try to not let any get into the engine. I wish I would have had a shop vac. Took me about 3 hours overall.
Non-working heater can be alot of things. Have you checked your coolant level? is the core hooked up still? What does your tempeture gauge say when it is warmed up?
I haven't hooked up a real gauge, but I can tell you for a fact it has oil pressure. If not it wouldn't be running right now. I thought when I first bought the car that the bulbs were probably just blown, but seeing as they've worked a few times in the past, quite randomly, they could just not be making good contact or something. The mileage thing leads me to believe the cluster just needs to be replaced. If not the whole cluster atleast the speedo module in the center (speedo works fine, the mileage just reads ERROR).
The reason I really didn't want to fool with the intake/TB is the kickdown cable. I've never set one of those before, don't want to fry my AOD. I guess there is a first time for everything though. I'd rather pick up a transmission pressure gauge and have that hooked up so I can set the cable by pressure rather than by what feels or looks right. If I'm pulling that I'm just going to go ahead and pick up a H.O upper, EGR spacer, and TB. No sense in pulling it apart and not upgrading to some extent.
Coolant level is good. The core is still physically hooked up, I'll try to feel the lines to make sure they are getting warm this afternoon. The gauge read 3 bars during the end of a short trip down the road I took it on yesterday (few miles). The air works like it should, to me it almost feels like the air is running instead of the heat. The A/C compressor is kicking on and off, but alot of cars do that when the heat is running. The panel works for controlling the vents, blower speed, and all so I'm hesitant to believe that it's a control panel problem.
the throttle cable just pops off of the throttle body. It is one peice more or less with the tv cable. There shouldn't be any adjustment required. I also swapped on the H.O. upper/throttle body, and I could tell absolutely no difference. Vacuum lines sucked to swap over. Use the parts from the old intake and swap them onto the new one, if you choose to go that route. I ended up swapping my IAC, TPS, and all the threaded vacuum inserts from the old intake setup. With the IAC that was on the new intake, the car would rev to 1500RPM and stay there. Don't forget to get the "upper plenume" gasket before doing the swap.
Also, your heater sounds like the classic heater core problems. Gets clogged or just dosen't work. Leave it in there long enough, and it might blow antifreeze all over the inside of the car.
So if I just pop the cable off and don't really bother with it I won't have to adjust it when I reinstall it on the throttle body? If that's the case that'll make things alot easier. I'm thinking about just picking up an Explorer intake and throttle body. Swapping will be a bit more involved with the Explorer intake, but it should be worth a decent gain.
heater core. I'm about to get a dash cap, new carpet and floormats so I'll have to fix it. Wishful thinking, but there's not an off chance that it could be caused by something else?
Manual heater control or ATC?
The A/C should never run with the function selector in the vent or floor position. It will run in defrost or mix/Hi Low.
The temperature blend door is mechanically operated by a control cable from the temperature control lever. If it is stuck in the cool position, the air will bypass the heater core.
After a drive feel the heater hoses to see if they warm up.