Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Technical => Suspension/Steering => Topic started by: dw85745 on February 10, 2010, 11:58:09 AM

Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: dw85745 on February 10, 2010, 11:58:09 AM
Rack is leaking at the bellows.  Never did one before.  Shop manual instructions seems straight forward but have a couple of questions.

1)  Looking at a picture of the Rack where intersects with the steering column, it appears the steering column slides over the rack spline.  Anything I need to do to in regard to getting the rack spline out from the column or re-alignment when inserting new rack spline into steering column shaft?

2)  Manual says to drop rack and support to get at high pressure hose and other rack fittings.  Did the high pressure hose not long ago.    Can't recall if high pressure hose has an "O" ring or nylon sleeve as prefer to these rather than hose.  OK to replace these or another new hose?

3)  Looking at a Reman "CarDone" rack.  Anybody had any problems with these "CarDones"  leaking after install?

4)  MOOG outer tie rods seem expensive.  Worth the price or are other OEM (e.g. TRW) just a good?

Any "WATCHOUTS" or suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
David
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: 88turbo on February 10, 2010, 12:01:16 PM
1. steering column to rack.  shaft on rack has a flat spot and really only goes together one way.

4. I have been using the orielly brand tie rods with no problems

the watchouts, make sure all of your seals are in place ;)
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: jandmmustangs on February 10, 2010, 01:25:46 PM
Dont test for leaks with your finger.  Hydraulic poisioning is serious
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: CoogarXR on February 10, 2010, 03:57:08 PM
Quote from: 88turbo;309813
4. I have been using the orielly brand tie rods with no problems



Orly? O'reilly!

Sorry, I had to do it...
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: vinnietbird on February 10, 2010, 04:03:09 PM
Get a new rack,install it,get an alignment done,and enjoy.It's also a good time to swap the pressure line if it's an old one,and the return hose.
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: dw85745 on February 10, 2010, 04:12:12 PM
Thanks for input all. 
Special Thanks to vinnietbird for easiest way to access steering column pinch bolt
and info on flat on shaft.
Following from Manual and common sense.
Will supplement with comments so may help next guy.


Quote

84 Cougar
Rack Removal and Tie Rod Ends

Parts Needed
Rack
Bushing (Qty 2)  << These differ so check vehicle before purchasing rack
Teflon “O” Rings for High Pressure and Return Line (Qty 2 – large and small)
Outer Tie Rod Ends (Qty 2)
New Cotter Pins for Tie Rods (Qty: 2)
New Castle Nuts for Tie Rods (Qty 2)
New Jam Nuts (22mm wrench)  (Qty 2)
Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid

Items Needed
Plastic Sheeting
Two plastic bags or plastic plugs for High Pressure and Return Line.
Two or more twist ties to hold plastic bags.
Drain Pan.
Roll Paper Towel
Rubber Gloves
Safety Glasses

Speciality Tools
11/16 Stubby Open End and/or Crowsfoot for flare nuts on rack
Pickle Fork and/or Tie Rod Puller

Torque Specs
Rack to Frame bolts (80–100)  ft lbs
Tie Rod End Castle Nut – (35-47) ft lbs
Tie Rod Jam Nut ((35-50) ft lbs.
Pinch Bolt -- Rack Spline to Steering column shaft (20-30) ft lbs.
High Pressure Line Fitting at Rack (10-15) ft lbs.

Checks

Ball Joints (see 14-01-4)  Measure from bottom of joint to bottom of center nipple in joint.  If distance greater than
1.2mm (.047 inch) joint OK otherwise replace.  (Note:  1/32 = .03125; 1/16 = .0625). -  The ball joint and lower suspension arm bushings are not separately serviced and must be replaced as an assembly.

Tie Rod Ends (13-32-3) Install hook end of pull scale tool through hole in the tie rod end stud.  Effort to move
the tie rod should be 1-5 pounds.  Replace if outside this range.

Steering Gear –  Mercury used two types of other than performance steering gears – Ford and TRW.  Look at the Pressure and Return line locations to ID type.  Ford gear appears to be more cylindrical near steering column shaft in appearance.

Removal
1)  Lay down plastic to catch any fluids.

2)  Disconnect negative battery cable.
    Raise vehicle, place jacks both sides.
    Turn ignition key to on Position.
    Removal of Oil Filter “may” provide easier access to the flare fittings  (Pressure Line and Return) on Rack

3)  CRITICAL - Measure distance from outer tie rod center line to outer tie rod center line.
     
                Distance is:  ___________________________________

3)  Loosen and REMOVE  Pinch bolt that holds Rack Spline to Steering column shaft.
    Access pinch bolt by turning steering wheel toward passenger side.  Bolt access is best from underneath vehicle.
    Tool :  Pinch bolt requires a 12 point, 7/16 inch box end wrench or socket
    Install:  Shaft on rack has a flat spot that fits into steering column and really only goes together one way.

4)  Drain steering pump by removing return line.
    Plug/Cover return line to stop dirt entry.

5)  Remove Outer Tie Rods from Wheel Spindle 
      - CRITICAL --  SAFETY GLASSES REQUIRED
                                  Also make it a practice never to get under vehicle even with jacks
                                without wheel secured in place.  JACKS CAN FAIL!
      - Grip the Inner tie rod (some have a flat), but NOT ON THREADS with locking pliers
              and loosen tie rod jam nut (22 mm).  If you don’t hold inner tie rod end, jam nut will
                spin inner tie rod inside of rack – damage?
      - Remove Wheel
      - Remove cotter pin and castle nut (3/4 inch socket)
      - Disconnect tie rod from steering spindle by using either:
        a)  Puller  (recommend turn castle nut upside down if tie rod is to be reused)
        b)  A Pickle Fork
        c)  Hammering end of of tie rod where castle nut attaches.  (This is method of last resort).
            It is suggested the castle nut be turned upside down and partially reinstalled or another
            nut used if tie rod is not being replaced.
      CRITICAL -- Put Wheel back on then do other  side. 

      INSTALL – When installing Castle Nut do NOT loosen nut to align to cotter pin hole.
                          ONLY TIGHTEN.

6) Remove Steering Rack
    CRITICAL: Note location of high pressure and return line hole position on rack.
                          Also note which lines are above/below sway bar.
                          Mine (Ford type), bottom right is high pressure, top right is return – looking to back of vehicle.
    Remove bolt securing high pressure line to inside driver side quarter panel below coolant bottle
    Remove rack mounting bolt nuts and metal washers.  Do not remove bolts.
    Tools:  15/16 (6 point, deep - impact best) for nut and 21mm (6 Point, deep) for bolt head.
    Pull rack toward front about ½ inch to partially disengage from steering column.
    Now note where flat area on rack spindle enters steering column and mark steering column
          to ID where flat area location is on column near pinch bolt (makes for easier install)
    Support the steering rack in center with a Jack
    Remove mounting bolts from rack.
    Lower rack to permit access to high pressure and return line flare fittings.
    Tools:  11/16 open end wrench (stubby) or crowsfoot only thing that works (flare nut wrench will Not work)
      Disconnect each line, and let drain.
      Plug/cover each line to stop dirt entry (plastic bag, twist tie works well)..
      Remove rack from vehicle.
      Measure length of old spline shaft against new.
      Count splines between flat and compare with new rack.
      Compare rubber mounting bushings with new rack.

    INSTALL
    - The rubber insulators must be pushed completely inside the rack  before the rack is installed
        on the cross member..
        No gap is allowed between the insulator and the face of the gear boss.
        Use a rubber lubricant (Silicone Spray works well – do not use WD40) to facilitate insulator
        installation.
 
7)  Remove Outer Tie Rods from Inner
      CRITICAL:
            Count number of turns (to ¼ turn) that it takes to remove outer tie rod from inner.
            BUT FIRST - Grip the Inner tie rod (some have a flat), but NOT ON THREADS with locking pliers
                                    If you don’t hold inner tie rod end, inner rod may spin inside of rack.
          
            Note # turns HERE:    Left ___________            Right _________________

8)  Get WHEEL ALIGNMENT IMMEDIATELY AFTER INSTALL


Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: bike70ride on February 26, 2010, 02:36:03 PM
Would this procedure be essentially the same for an '87?  Thinking about doing mine this Spring since I need to get a new PS pump...
 
Thx!
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: Chuck W on February 26, 2010, 02:39:55 PM
Quote from: bike70ride;311648
Would this procedure be essentially the same for an '87?  Thinking about doing mine this Spring since I need to get a new PS pump...
 
Thx!



yes
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: 88turbo on February 26, 2010, 02:53:27 PM
I would like to add that beating on the nut/shaft to remove tie rods is just plain stupid.  there is a better easier way to do this.

1. loosen the nut to about the last threads

2. with a big hammer beat on the side of the spindle housing where the shaft comes through.  when his hard enough the tie rod will drop. and no harm done.
Title: 84 Cougar Rack Replacement
Post by: dw85745 on March 03, 2010, 01:05:19 PM
88 tubro

Your suggestion appears to be a better way to "Hammer".
I'm personally NOT a fan of hammering anything.
This why list Last!