Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

Technical => Engine Tech => Topic started by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 06:20:02 PM

Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 06:20:02 PM
to start off with, this is the new 87 TC.  the car starts and runs fine but dies like its running out of fuel after about 4 blocks of driving and wont restart, if I let the car sit the cycle repeats.  I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and inspected the injectors.  not really sure where to go from here,  I know I am going to be asked to pull codes, the car came with a code reader but I havent had a chance to get it figured out to pull codes.  has anyone had a problem like this before?  also can a bad O2 or bap sensor cause a problem like this?  the FP never dies and keeps pressure so I am assuming that the problem is somewhere around the injectors or related parts. also, what tells the injectors to fire?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jangus on February 07, 2010, 07:44:47 PM
First, check codes, secondly, remove the TFI module and have it tested. I'd be willing to bet you have a bad one. While you're at it, go to the salvage yard and pull the remote TFI setup from the first Ford product you find with one. Your new TFI will appreciate it.
If the TFI checks out good, then I'd suspect the PIP inside the distributor.
Pulling the codes will take all the guess work out of it, so pull the codes first.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 07:55:37 PM
I forgot to add that I also installed a new distributor and had the tfi tested and it checked out good.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Ductape91 on February 07, 2010, 08:42:06 PM
did you have the tfi tested a few times to get it hot and it still passed?

i second on pulling codes.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: daminc on February 07, 2010, 08:51:29 PM
I always check the codes. Even when I don't think there's a problem, I'll still check the computer as regular maintenance  every couple months.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 09:08:50 PM
they tested the tfi I few times, how many would you reccomend? I have another TFI that I could try on it that I know is good.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jangus on February 07, 2010, 09:57:30 PM
Just because you installed a new/remaned distributor doesn't mean the PIP is good. Seen it happen before.
Pull codes first. Until then, everything is just a guess.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 10:12:00 PM
yes, but this distributor is doing the same thing the old one was doing. working on trying to pull codes...
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 10:54:39 PM
well I am unable to pull codes with my code reader for some odd reason...  is there another way that I can do this?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: daminc on February 07, 2010, 10:59:24 PM
here, look under the computer section on the left.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php (http://"http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index.php")
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 07, 2010, 11:21:49 PM
I'll see what I can figure out tomorrow when there is more light...
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Haystack on February 09, 2010, 12:33:30 AM
all you need is a paper clip and either a test light, or the check engine light.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: daminc on February 09, 2010, 07:45:27 AM
Quote from: Haystack;309692
all you need is a paper clip and either a test light, or the check engine light.


I use a cut piece of sheet metal the width if the connector slots to plug them together. It always stays in  my tool chest in a separate little box. I have to use my buttstuffog meter to see the pulses, as the check light doesn't flash codes in my cougars. (it did in my 88 E-250 though). I really should get a light to do this one day, and make it easier to count.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 09, 2010, 10:16:05 AM
I will see about getting an buttstuffog meter today, and try this.  am I going to be watching for the sweeps?  is that how I decipher the codes?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: BogusSVO on February 09, 2010, 11:14:35 AM
check the ineria switch, they will start to go bad and kill the FP and then cool down and the FP will work again....

I had this issue on a 85TC I had once,,,,,
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: CoogarXR on February 09, 2010, 01:39:46 PM
Sounds like the TFI to me. I don't bother with the testing, they almost always test good even if they are bad (at my local autozone anyway...).

Just buy a new one, slap it on, and if that wasn't it, keep it as a spare. Because some day it WILL be it, hehe.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: cougarman on February 09, 2010, 02:17:12 PM
Quote from: coogarxr;309718
sounds like the tfi to me. I don't bother with the testing, they almost always test good even if they are bad (at my local autozone anyway...).

Just buy a new one, slap it on, and if that wasn't it, keep it as a spare. Because some day it will be it, hehe.


x2.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: BogusSVO on February 09, 2010, 07:00:51 PM
and get the Motocraft one, I have seen timing isues with the cheap ones, wells BWD ect...
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 09, 2010, 08:10:03 PM
I have a motorcraft I keep as a spare, I will try it tomorrow.  sorry for no updates havent been feeling well.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Haystack on February 09, 2010, 09:33:42 PM
Quote from: 88turbo;309710
I will see about getting an buttstuffog meter today, and try this.  am I going to be watching for the sweeps?  is that how I decipher the codes?


Or you could use a test light. Or you could buy the $80 code scanner that does the same thing as a paper clip, or you could read the links that people give you, or you could do your own search.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 09, 2010, 11:09:27 PM
Quote from: Haystack;309760
Or you could use a test light. Or you could buy the $80 code scanner that does the same thing as a paper clip, or you could read the links that people give you, or you could do your own search.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html


thanks for your input :hick:
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Beau on February 09, 2010, 11:14:46 PM
Quote from: Haystack;309760
Or you could use a test light. Or you could buy the $80 code scanner that does the same thing as a paper clip, or you could read the links that people give you, or you could do your own search.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/OBD_I.html


Or you can post link and info someone else has already mentioned and not say a  thing helpful...thinkin' he gets the pulling codes already...:punchballs:


EDIT: Does AutoHole or Oripoffs still do free code testing...?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: softtouch on February 10, 2010, 12:52:37 AM
Quote from: daminc;309701
I use a cut piece of sheet metal the width if the connector slots to plug them together. It always stays in  my tool chest in a separate little box. I have to use my buttstuffog meter to see the pulses, as the check light doesn't flash codes in my cougars. (it did in my 88 E-250 though). I really should get a light to do this one day, and make it easier to count.


I just flip up the toggle switch next to the meter and don't even have to open the hood.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Kitz Kat on February 10, 2010, 04:10:05 AM
Quote from: softtouch;309781
I just flip up the toggle switch next to the meter and don't even have to open the hood.

Is that there just for codes?, or is it a voltmeter to?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: softtouch on February 10, 2010, 02:56:25 PM
Quote from: Kitz Kat;309788
Is that there just for codes?, or is it a voltmeter to?

Voltmeter with the toggle off.
Codes with the toggle on.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jcassity on February 11, 2010, 11:40:26 PM
Quote from: daminc;309701
I use a cut piece of sheet metal the width if the connector slots to plug them together. It always stays in  my tool chest in a separate little box. I have to use my buttstuffog meter to see the pulses, as the check light doesn't flash codes in my cougars. (it did in my 88 E-250 though). I really should get a light to do this one day, and make it easier to count.


or a 12v buzzer from some old toy / appliance or something.  that way you can focus on writting the codes instead of looking back and forth missing one blink second guessing yourself.  mine came out of a microwave iirc.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jcassity on February 12, 2010, 12:04:35 AM
Quote from: 88turbo;309551
to start off with, this is the new 87 TC.  the car starts and runs fine but dies like its running out of fuel after about 4 blocks of driving and wont restart, if I let the car sit the cycle repeats.

ok,, something is getting warm and then finally killing the eec's ability to supply ref grounds to produce signals on the tfi for spark.  What you need to do first before getting too deep into this is to tell us this....
**DURING THE FAULT***, do you still have spark delivery out of one of your plug wires
-if yes,, its fuel related
-if no,, its spark related.

knowing this will help narrow down options.  The spark must be nice and bluish white,, not of this orangish color.

Next,, during the fault,, does fuel spray all over hell and creation when you purge it,,
if not- lets get the pressure tested
if yes- its a spark issue.

however,,
once upon a time i had intermittant orangish spark and also had fuel pres. My little red wire slip on boot was partially eaten by a mouse thus causng wierd problems with my starter relay.



  I have replaced the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and inspected the injectors.  not really sure where to go from here,  I know I am going to be asked to pull codes, the car came with a code reader but I havent had a chance to get it figured out to pull codes.  has anyone had a problem like this before?

Yes, once- exactly like yours but cant remember what caused it.

 also can a bad O2 or bap sensor cause a problem like this? 

i would never put money on that ,, far fetched, at the least car would run rich.

the FP never dies and keeps pressure so I am assuming that the problem is somewhere around the injectors or related parts. also, what tells the injectors to fire?

the injector grounds are managed within the computer, the eec makes and breaks the grounds to each injector based on the position of the rotor fin thing a ma jig in the dizzy.  thats why one fin is narrower to id cyl number 1.  the eec manages the pulse width modulation based on tps position mainly pluse a few other inputs.




to tell you the gods honest truth,, iirc,  the time this happened to me was when i finally discovered what sensors (being unplugged) prevented the car from starting.  Once i let the car cool down and i determined what sensors ***really**** did need to be hooked up for the car to start, I arrived at the ACT sensor.

this was for the 3.8L btw but im sure its the same on the 5.0.  Never tried on my 20th to test nor do i want to as to not trigger any issues with my cherry no codes eec now.

my gut lends more towards the common things........starter relay getting hot would be the first swap, tps is not working right at a wide range of trottle positions, pip sensor is hosed, tfi is getting piss poor ground (haynes manual has good tips to test with key on engine off, or the fuel pump relay might be jacked.  Not so much leaning hard to the ACT but its a try.  the fuel pump also gets warm if its not submerged,, the fuel pump relay gets hot,, however what gets me is you say the pump continues to operate during the fault condition so all the fuel pump stuff is prob out the window.

It is my understanding that during a hard fault, the eec's ability to manage the the ability to deliver fuel ect is still present however this is called limp mode and usually causes rich running conditions.  If your running in limp mode, you may not know it until now. 

so.........
check the ACT...like this..with a meter..or pull codes and lets see whatcha got.

if you have a 3600ohm resistor, you could jumper that across the ECT and ACT to simulate a warm engine situation

----------------------
ACT sensor test ,,,feeds the computer  (INLET AIR TEMP) or "air charge temp"
Resistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)
at 50degF=58K ohms
at 65degF=40K ohms
at 180degF=3.6K ohms
at 220degF=1.8K ohms
=============================

or,,,,,,,,,,
iirc,, i might have arrived at the ECT was the problem, either way it was an odd ball not your typical fix kind of thing

______________________________
ECT sensor test feeds the computer  ,, inlet water temp or (ENGINE COOLANT TEMP)
Resistance test pin to pin of the sensor (this is a variable resister proportional to temperature including outside air temp if the motor is cold)
at 50degF=58K ohms
at 65degF=40K ohms
at 180degF=3.6K ohms
at 220degF=1.8K ohms

next clean the end of the sensor with scotch brite ect and retest
if high temps persist, replace coolant temp sensor and ECT as a matched set.
if that does not work, start looking at your coolant system parts.
----------------------


as for test lights,,
just unhook the bulb power near your fuse panel, or even your hood.

run a wire from the test conn per below up to the bulb.

now run codes like normal per the linky haystack put up.

see diagram below for options but in effect, we all have onboard test lights if you just use them.
ford solved this by employing option 3 (ie- paper clip haystack mentioned), you just sit in the drivers seat and watch the "check engine" light,,if it works.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jcassity on February 12, 2010, 06:50:27 AM
Quote from: 88turbo;309551
  the FP never dies and keeps pressure ?


expand on this.

you mean the engine stops but you still hear the pump running?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 12, 2010, 11:02:16 AM
yes, the engine dies and when I try to restart the pump runs. I havent thought to listen for the pump when the engine dies but one would think that it wouldnt be with no way to trigger the relay.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: daminc on February 12, 2010, 03:48:05 PM
Quote from: jcassity;309993

see diagram below for options but in effect, we all have onboard test lights if you just use them.
ford solved this by employing option 3 (ie- paper clip haystack mentioned), you just sit in the drivers seat and watch the "check engine" light,,if it works.

That doesn't work in my car. And the light does actually work.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jcassity on February 13, 2010, 01:38:55 AM
Quote from: daminc;310042
That doesn't work in my car. And the light does actually work.


well thats kinda fubar, isnt it?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 13, 2010, 02:05:48 PM
alright, heres my current state.  the car has ran for much longer this time but still died and wont restart I have a strong orange spark but when I puch the bleeder on the fuel rail it doesnt flow much fuel at all not a spray like it should be.  I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. now this only points me to the IRCM module that runs the pump. I have another IRCM that I can try I will report back shortly.

EDIT. I dont have the other IRCM that I thought I had :(
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Beau on February 13, 2010, 02:54:48 PM
Borrow it from the silver 'Bird?
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: hypostang on February 13, 2010, 03:07:23 PM
I had a VERY similar problem on my old 86 TC , it turned out it was the eec relay above the computer to the right of the glove box .
 It may be worth a look
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 13, 2010, 04:08:46 PM
I would barrow it from the silver bird but its not here and wont be here till about 5:30 6ish.  found an issue with the distributor connector so I changed the connector and pig tail. had the car running great shut it off and now it wont restart.  same issue spark, fuel but no start.  going to check for the eec relay.
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 13, 2010, 08:19:44 PM
well I have found the problem,  the red injector wire where it comes through the main harness connector was broken and wasnt making a good connection.  all is better and I appreciate all of the help that was given in this thread :D  thank you to everyone that helped
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: hypostang on February 13, 2010, 08:21:50 PM
Congrats man !!!:roxor:
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 13, 2010, 08:23:19 PM
thanks a lot buddy :D:D:D
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: Beau on February 14, 2010, 02:16:38 AM
Righteous! :burnout:
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: 88turbo on February 14, 2010, 11:41:06 AM
Quote from: FordTruckFreeek;310209
Righteous! :burnout:


thats exactly right ;):burnout: lmao
Title: Running Issues SOLVED!!!
Post by: jcassity on February 15, 2010, 01:01:45 AM
never thouht to add a noid test in the info ,,, using a little bulb to verify the injectors were pulsing.

that eliminates a lot of previous circuits.