I’m am finishing my basp00get and I am very close to starting the drywall process but I ran into an issue yesterday when I was insulating the waste pipe from the upstairs lav.
I noticed that the “” portion of the pipes were hanging lower than the joist by a bit. So I trimmed away the insulation I had just put on thinking that it would be enough, but it still isn’t.
After closer inspection, the pipe itself clears but not the s. I measured them and they are hanging below the joist by no more than a ¼”.
I really don’t want to build a soffit around this one section if I can help it, so I am wondering if it would be too taboo to just “divot” the 5/8” drywall in these three interference areas.
I’m sure having the pipes in direct contact with the drywall sheet will defeat any efforts I am taking to wrap them with sound deadener and insulation, but I think I can put up with a little bit of flushing water instead of an ugly box protruding from the ceiling.
Brent
I dont know how big of a area you are talking about,but if its not to large,I would probably use 1/4" shims on the joists to lower the drywall,to clear the pipe.
Shim it then use 1/2" or even 3/8" in that one spot.
It's about 3' x 3' but it's right up against the wall and one of the windows so I think it would be very noticable.
(http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/8516/basp00get1.th.jpg) (http://img30.imageshack.us/i/basp00get1.jpg/)
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8826/lavpipe007.th.jpg) (http://img13.imageshack.us/i/lavpipe007.jpg/)
That was too easy. Now why didn't I think of that ?!!
Thanks Paul !! :bowdown:
run 1/4" or 1/2" strips down the joists and hang it all level, why mess with that for just for one piece. your asking for trouble with using shims and different size rock, unless you know how to rock, spackle & sand well enough.
if the ceiling cant spare that much of a drop you got bigger problems :P
I just cut out the back of the drywall when I come to that stuff, or make a slot in the drywall, and use durobond to fill it back in. I've been drywalling for almost 30 years and it's the quickest way to fix that problem without putting a hump in your ceiling.
That joist is also cut down to a 2x4 where the pipe is cut in to it. Is it on a long span?
I take it that you are hanging the sheets right on the floor joists? Personally, I'd strap the ceiling first which would take care of issues like that. Otherwise, I'd just scallop out the small sections where the s are being that close to the wall. If it were in the middle of the room id shim. Obviously be mindful of where your zinging the screws in.
Yeah, as specially as that section is already headered off.
Here is a shot taken from the center of the room, just under the center main support beam that goes lengthwise of the house.
(http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/6839/lavpipe015.th.jpg) (http://img695.imageshack.us/i/lavpipe015.jpg/)
The first room in the basp00get I built was an office and I drywalled it as a trial to see how I could do and it didn't turn out as well as I had hoped for so I'm going to hire out the drywall for the rest.
I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row before I tell the drywallers that I am ready for them to start, but it sounds like it would be best to wait and see what they prefer to do for this spot.
Brent
Pex FTW!
:headbang:
Yeah baby!!
My best friend is a plumber and we just finished re-plumbing my whole house in PEX. It was all galvanized steel pipe.
Wow what a difference. I now have nearly instant hot water at all of the faucets.
I have a boiler with hot water heat and when we were moving all of the pipes up into the joists we replaced all the copper runs to the baseboards with PEX so they are much more efficient than before.
I went the extra step and wrapped all of the heat runs with pipe insulation.
It was probably overkill because I am going to insulate the joist cavities anyway, but the pipe insulation was cheap.
(http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6354/lavpipe007i.th.jpg) (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/lavpipe007i.jpg/)
Brent
That was a great solution for the galvanized pipe, Brent. Would have cost more for copper, anyway, and Pex is so easy to run (and bend). Sometimes I look at my plumbing and think about it...LOL
My entire house is copper. If I had the scratch; I'd line the bathrooms and garage floors with pex for radiant heat.
Worth every cent. I't's pretty reasonable in price if you already have a boiler and do it yourself. you just need to create a another loop with a temp. mixing valve
half of my 1st floor has it under the tile. nice stuff....
My uncle did it in his bathroom about 5 years ago.
I'll get to it. I want a new shed and a hot tub first ;)
I was also thinking about a hot tub this summer. not sure about gas heat or electric though
I'd get strapping, strap the whole ceiling, drop your lights and let the hangers tear into it, but that's me. Should go quick and easy. Ive never actually seen someone drill holes through the floor joists for electrical or plumbing runs like that (excluding engineered lumber). Not that i noticed anyway.
Oh hells yeah. I heart radiant heat. I don't have it, but i love it. One of my old bosses actually has radiant heat in his driveway and walkways. Usually don't have to clear it from snow.
I've decided to get a couple of quotes and ask them what, if anything, they prefer me to do in that spot.
I didn't want it to "feel" like a basp00get so in order to get the ceiling to be as high as possible (finished it will be 7' 9") I had all of the plumbing movied up into the joists.
It's a pretty common thing to do when finishing a basp00get. Local building codes may vary, but if you follow these guidlines for drilling you should be within code.
Brent