i'm going to be building a set of SFC's for my car and was wondering what everyone does with their fuel lines when they put SFC's on a t-bird?
What do you mean? To cover them up when welding? If you want to cover them up, a damp cloth is plenty.
Had to cover mine for most of my lower welding
I got this crazy space age foil stuff that I use to protect from sparks.
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Cougar%20Pass%20side%20rebuild/frame%20rails%20and%20connectors/IMG_4083.jpg)
the way i'm wanting to build mine, the lines would have to run through the connectors....or under them which would put them low as hell.....
That's why I left space between the floor and my connectors. I need to run fuel lines, brake lines, E brake cables. :D
If you can; use a welding blanket.
AND MAKE SURE IT'S PROPERLY SECURED! Mine slid off. I caught the line on fire....Luckily I had an extinguisher handy. THe only reason the car didn't burn was because I took the necessary precautions, but even with those there are unforeseen incidents.
;)
Mine are secured up in place right now yet visible if you get down and look underneath. A piece of angle iron along the inner side of the subframe will remedy that.
How'd you manage that? My subframe connectors (plain stock, nothing special) went right in with no issues. I question how the line managed to catch on fire - perhaps scrub the lines good prior to welding if the undercarriage is filthy? Of course prep will prevent most problems and maybe my lines aren't "normal". A quick welder is also less likely to run into heat problems. I was more worried about my floor pan on the interior than the undercarriage.
I do wish I had more strengthening underneath though - for no particular reason other than to know it's there and solid.
The hole made was near invisible. Torch hit the line for a fraction of a second. Had to bend the line afterward on inspection to actually find the hole.
As far as cleanliness --- There aren't many cars on here with a cleaner dirt and rust free undercarriage on here. The fire spread to about the size of the flame from a bic lighter.
You can question how it caught all you want. I WITNESSED IT.
things just happen....
With all the welding on my car, I'm really surprised mine didn't catch on fire.
And let me tell you. that undercoating in the rear wheelwells is a blaze waiting to happen.
Add some rubber after a few track runs and it's even more fun! :hick:
I don't doubt you one bit - I'd clean the surrounding area before ever welding in an area though. Safety first! :)
Either way, I'm a strong believer in a barrier, along with disconnecting electrical devices that have the slightest possibility of having issues if the welder were to act up. It's an odd precaution but I always disconnect the battery - electricity can do some weird things.
About the only time I don't disconnect it is for some type of fluid change....
Are the T-bird steel or plastic? I can't remember what the stock ones were in my 1987. I remember the first time I ran across a plastic gas line in a GM and was very surprised when it melted in two and caught the car on fire. Never really worried about welding next to steel lines so I did not think it would be a problem.
TED
What are you going to do for SubFrame conectors. I just use simple channel and plate and it works great. Sure make a difference. Use to be when you jack up the car the frame would flex and make it hard to shut the doors. But now you can jack it up on one conner and there is no flex and the doors still works great.
TED
I don't even remember what it was like pre-subframe connectors. I didn't notice a huge increase but it handled turns better without throwing me into the door. I didn't notice much else but perhaps the suspension felt more solid. Either way, cheap and quick strengthening.
I never melted mine, but did accidentally ground a hole in one prepping to weld.
the way i really want to do it is completely different from any i have ever seen. i want to use 2x3 tubing and notch the floor and weld full length. this way it will not hang down any lower that the stock subframes. i dont think i will end up doing them this way, but we shall see.
i know 2x3 overkill, but i do have BIG plans for the drivetrain in this car and dont want any possibility of things flexing.......
The way mine are are simple and it creates a box so it's very strong. But it does hang down a bit, on may car it has not been a problem and never hit but if you went way lower it might. The real way to reduce all flex is the roll cage.
TED
it will have a rollbar eventually
search for gumby's SFC thread. He used 2x3 through the floor
I used 2X2 .083 square tubing upper/ 1X2 .083 tubing for the lower in mine and I put various plates connecting the rear subframe to the bulk head. Also put in a bulkhead plate for the 2 square to butt up against. Even with the IRS in, I can jack up any corner and lift 3 tires off the ground :D
you havent looked hard enough. ;)
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=13523
not from where im sitting.
1x2 heavy wall square tubing here. It is a little low but it's great for running battery cables, vacuum lines, methanol lines, etc. thru.
My car's best 60' is 1.55 so I know they are doing their job.
the mustang shell i got has 1x2 tubing and i chuckle every time i think about using that size for the t-bird....my power goals would most likely make 1x2 twist like a pretzel.....
my plan for doing this will put my connectors no lower than the stock subframes
Holy hell! what rock did you crawl out from under?
SFC on the SHO are 1x2 IIRC and they make a world of difference. I lift wheels all the time. Different platform but still a unibody, and as far as im concerned "overkill" is far from anything you will do with your SFC.