I have a 86 turbo coupe and my passenger side window is not working, I believe I need a new regulator and or motor.
Does anyone have this?
Dave
Like I said over in the other thread Ive got them if ya need them just let me know ;)
My car is in a shop right now having the side window trim replaced, the door is apart and the mechanic told me the regulator is bad.
I will speak with the mechanic in the morning, are there questions I should ask him? Dave
Stripped some teeth did it? Hmmm, I looked Saturday, and all the foxes are gone from the local Pull-A-Part. Just as well, though. Wouldn't do much good to go out there unless I had scuba gear. It's rained nearly 6 inches here in the past three days. The doors on an MN12 aren't as high as a Fox door, so I don't think the regulator outta one of those will work. You need post and regulator, or just regulator? Or motor too? I need a couple motors for my truck, and the ones in the Fox bird are identical to the ones in my truck. I've even figured out how to swap sides with 'em and not have to repin the plugs.
I hear the motor running when I try to use the switch but the window does not move, although I could move the window up and down manually just by gripping both side of the glass with my hands. So I think I'm looking for a motor (good working - no stripped gears) and a regulator (no broken teeth) for a passenger side of a 86 t-bird turbo coupe. Not sure if 1 or both items are bad on my car, but if the mechanic has the door taken apart I want to make sure I have the right part to fix it, Dave
If you hear the motor running then go down to your local parts store and tell them you need the repair plugs for the window motor. There are 3 little plugs between the motor driven gear and the gear that runs the regulator. They dry out and crack and fall to pieces and give the issue you speak of. I think it was probably a safety deal to avoid shutting things in a window. I have a 65 Bird here that has a solid mount gear originally and when it broke I replaced it with the gear out of a 87. Even if your plastic gear broke I would bet you could get the parts for under $30.
Dave, what you need is the motor, not the regulator.... You can get one at any local parts store for about $45 bucks... your motor still works, but the drive gear in the motor transmission just turns on the motor shaft because the three pieces of rubberish plastic that lock the gear to the motor shaft have dried out and have broken up into small pieces and no longer holds the motor drive gear to the rotating shaft,...... the motor turns, but it can't grip the gear to turn it...........Lopez
Yup, more than likely the drive pawls in the gear. Outer gear is nylon, and TOUGH as nails. Three graphite pawls were used in the OE motors. They were designed to crush if the window stalled and the motor didn't turn off, I.E., a kid's head was stuck in the window. 1st, teach your kids not to stick their head out the window (Darwin was right). Then, go get some of the newer poly pawls. They can be crushed, but not as easily as the original graphite ones.
Last time I did this repair (a month ago), Advance no longer carried just the pawls. Gotta buy the whole gear kit which comes complete with large nylon worm drive gear, poly pawls, smaller metal gear to turn the regulator, new seal, and greas packs to rebuild them with. You may get the pawls from somewhere else. Pawl kit, $6 for three (one window). Gear kit, about $35 each.
When you get ready to remove the motors, pull the inside door panels off. Look down near the bottom of the door, and you'll find three small indentations. Drill those out to 1/2 inch hole, and you can reach the screws holding the motor on the regulator with a 3/8" nut driver or socket on extension. No need to remove the regulator (like I did the first two times I did this). That requires grinding or drilling out rivets, taking the glass out of the door, and you'll need a few extra joints in arms as long as an orangutan's to put bolts back in where the rivets were. WARNING. Wear long sleeves. The inside edges of the holes in that door can be sharp as razors. I think a pint of my blood is in the bottom of my truck doors. If you make the holes described, you can have the motor out in 20 minutes, rebuilt in about the same, and back in about the same. Doesn't take long if ya know what you're doing.
Your body shop guy would like nothing more than to sell you a complete regulator.
One little caveat, though. The door panel will not cover the bottom hole that you drill out. It's down very close to the very bottom edge of the door. I can live with this for the convenience of easily getting to those motors when they wanna quit again.