I am going to do yet another Heater Core Change...and yes I deserved this one. Anyways, the last time I did this I left the evaporator core (the rest of the AC has been removed) in the car in case I needed to use it as the Heater Core. Sounds crazy maybe, but if I put the proper connectors on the heater lines, and a flow control valve (VW,or old Mopar Style) it seems like it should work.
Tell me why this would be a bad idea before I try it.
Thanks,
Cooter
It may work,but changing the heater core isn't that bad.I used to think it was because I was going the long way of doing it.After reading the "right" way of doing it,it can be done in an hour or so,and,it'll be done the right way.Don't take short cuts.Plus,I don't know what those evaporators can take as far as water pressure and heat go.Why take chances when you can spend a little on a new heater core,do the job right,and have no worries about what "Might" happen.
yes. i dont know that it wont 'work' exactly but it wouldnt be right. they're not made to have any water in them at all, now thats all you have(with antifreeze). plus it just sounds like you would be opening up a can of worms doing that.
It has been done before by a couple of people on this board.
It makes your controls basackwards. You have to set them for cooling when you want heat.
When was the last time you looked in to A/c pressures? When was the last time you looked at your radiator cap rating? The A/C system operates at much greater pressures than you cooling system does. A/c 35-180psi and what does the rad cap hold to like 13-18 depending on application. So yes it will take the pressure and yes it will work.
Stuckman
I am pretty sure the Evaporator Core can take higher pressures, I am not sure about the higher range heat cycles affecting it. I intend to do the change with a Motorcraft Core, and you're correct Vinnie, it isn't that bad at all (especially this time of year, not on the side of Interstate!). Last time I even swapped an entire HVAC Case without removing the IP from the car.
This post is here to help me make up my mind about leaving the Evaporator Core in (again) as a backup. I will be TSD-Rallying, RallyCrossing and Ice Racing this car this Winter, and I intend to drive it to all events so this is a decision of whether or not to trust the Motorcraft Core with all of the impacts, Vibrations, and harsh conditions. (I am even considering buying two heater cores and mounting one in the old Evaporator location with an adapter.)
grutinator, I wonder about the passages in the Evaporator Core as far as flow, but most systems (including ours) have the refrigerant entering the Evaporator Core as a Liquid (it's not just a clever name). And I am pretty sure refrigerant is thinner and more corrosive that Coolant.
And Softtouch, this make sense. Our HVAC Boxes pull outside air, or inside air through the Evaporator Core First always. I could set it on MAX HEAT!!! Circulating In-Cabin air only! Do you recall the names of the people that did this?
Thanks for the replies guys, I'll think about this some more...
Thanks Stuckman! (Didn't see your post...) You're talking me into leaving it in there...
I am pretty sure jcassity did it. I can't remember the other one, but they were in a cold climate in winter.
Thanks softtouch, I'll dig around and see if I find or get some more comments from jcassity.
Thanks again,
Cooter
Plot Thickens. Motorcraft cores are apparently unavailable...(checked '93 Mustang as well) Anyone's opinion different of what I should do now? Aftermarket gives a 1-year warranty only.
You quoted me,then apparently didn't read what you commented on.I stated VERY clearly...."I DON'T KNOW" what the pressures and temp ratings are.
I just checked Latemodelrestoration's website and they sell the original ford cores for $79.99. Part number is LRS-18476AF.
Thanks slicksport88, I'll check into this.
When doing the heater core replacement, make sure you get the heater hose that has the restrictor in it or you can buy the restrictor from LMS and install it in an aftermarket hose. It goes into the fatter one. What really kills a heater core (especially the cheap aftermarket ones) is handling of the rubber hoses that attaches to them. There is very little support from the tubes coming from the heater core and installing/removing the rubber hoses typically causes failure of the heater core.
Where can you get the heater hose with a restrictor in it? I'd like to use one of those, but have a sneaking suspicion that my local auto parts stores wouldn't have a clue if I asked them for one.
The restrictor is a separate part.When you're at the salvage yard,just check the heater hoses and you can find them.Just use a screw driver to pull it out of the hose,or slice the hose open.
I think someone on here used a 1/4 inch socket as one.
Yeah I've been there before, years back I ripped the tube right out of the core because of those lines LOL...
Been holding for 5 years now......
I ended up going with the cheap replacement heater core. It contained several more rows and several more fins for each row and was entirely made (with possible exception to however it is bonded together) of Aluminum. The heat works much better than the last two cores I had in this particular car. I did not put in a flow restrictor, and I will be beating the out of this car...The day I have a heater core failure (my vote is around this time next year...but we'll see) I intend to swap the heater lines over to the evaporator core...I am fitting the evaporator lines with fittings (and caps) to accept the hoses. Anyone who has seen an evaporator core fail when used as a heater core be sure to post up.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year,
Cooter
Also... I changed out that last Heater Core in two hours. It really does get easy after you do it a few times!
Cooter
Any pointers on someone about to do this?? :punchballs:
Here you go...
http://www.coolcats.net/tech/troubleshooting/heatercore.html