Car: 1988 T-Bird Sport (no auto-dimmer)
I have parking lights, high beams, and turn signals but no low beams? And my high beams will not stay on. I can hold the high beams on and they will work. I suspect its the headlight switch on the column but autozone wants $83 for one. Could it be the switch on the dash? If someone has another idea of what the problem could be please let me know. If you have a parts car with a headlight switch I will gladly pay you for it. Just cant really swing $83 for a switch right now.
I dont have a parts car but I do have a h/l switch, the switch in the dash not the dimmer switch on the column.
I guess I could try that one 1st and see what I got. What do you want for it?
Let me know if it's the column switch (multi-function lever).If it is,I think I have one,$15.00 shipped.
If vinnie doesn't I have one.
I guess I will get both switches then.
I love my digital camera :D
Okay, there appear to be two potential current paths:
1. If you hold the lever in the flash-to-pass position, current flows through 527 R to the flash-to-pass relay. That closes the relay, which allows current to flow along 12 LG/BK to your high beams.
2. If you pull the lever and release so that high beams are on, current flows along 507 Y directly to circuit 12 LG/BK.
I would say that it's most likely the multifunction switch, though it could also be any of the connectors along the second current path (specifically, C238, C292, C234, or C232). I would say that a fault along the path is a lot less likely than in the switch itself, though.
According to the EVTM:
C238 is the connector at the switch.
C292 is under the left hand side of the instrument panel, near the fuse panel (gray, 12 terminals).
C234 is behind the left hand side of the instrument panel (gray, 12 terminals).
C232 is at the left hand front fender apr0n below the headlamps (gray, 8 terminals).
I'd bet on the switch being the problem.
Thanks!
Now I understand how everything works. Just need a switch thats worth a ! lol
I had a similar situation years ago. The only difference was that I didn't have low beams. Turned out to be the Dimmer/combo switch in the column. They are cheaper and easier to change at least with the older Pull type headlight switches.
Stuckman
I have an extra switch from my 1984 car. It was indeed fully functional before I removed it to swap it for one with the 1983-only horn activation included switch which I needed to use with he NOS 1981-83 Tbird steering wheel trim with no horn switch which I just won off eBay. Your round stalk lever WILL fit into this switch and it is the same switch as the one you originally have. It will just mount and plug right in, then insert your existing turn signal lever. There is no mounting modifications or rewiring required.
PM me if you are interested. I will glad to sell it to you, especially since so many of you on here have been kind enough to help me and others. I will take your best offer + shipping. It's worth nothing to me sitting in a box around the house and I'd rather see it go to someone who can use it.
Vinne is shipping me one here soon. If that one for some odd reason doesnt work then I will pm you. Thanks for the offer, I really appreciate it.
Mine was the 'multifunction switch' when that happened.
thats what everyone is telling me so im gonna chage it
The main headlight switch (on the dash) is bad.
Holding back on the dimmer stalk is flash to pass, This is a different circuit to the high beams that doesn't use the main headlight switch.
Flash to pass will work with the main headlight switch off.
when i turn the lights on all the way on the dash i get nothing but the parking lights.
if i pull the high beams they come on but will not stay on. after i let go of they go right back off.
If you "pull the high beams" with the main headlight switch OFF you will get the high beams until you let it go.
This is "Flash to pass"
Once again this is a different circuit to the high beams.
The main headlight switch is bad.
Let me qualify what I said.
I see you have an 88. So in your case the flash to pass should only work with the ignition on.
Do the 87's and 88's have different circuitry? The EVTM pic is from my '87 book.
Cars with the flash to pass relay need the ignition in run to pick the relay.
My 84 has no relay and will and will flash without the ignition in run.
The 85 EVTM shows the relay so it looks like most of our cars have the relay.
I like pics. I really, really do. :D
All power for the "normal" headlights (high and low) goes through the dimmer switch. "Flash to pass" is a separate circuit with a relay, that is activated by a set of contacts inside the dimmer switch.
In pic #1, the round contacts in the upper left are where the power goes through the dimmer. High beam is diagonal one way, low beam diagonal the other way. The 2 vertical tabs just below the pads are the contacts for "flash to pass", pushed by the plunger sticking out of the green block (the high-low toggler thingy).
The "rocker" switch in the lower left of pic #2 is what flips back and forth to give high- and low- beams. The "contact bar" is lightly spring-loaded, and rides in the plastic block, as seen in pic #3.
Over time, dirt and general corrosion contribute to a bad connection, which causes the contacts to heat up, often enough to melt the plastic block the contact bar is in. The block gets mushy, the bar is pushed into the mush, and it sticks there, creating an even worse connection. If it's particularly mushy at the time, the contact points can get coated with melted plastic, resulting in no contact in either position, and even a high-low switch that doesn't "click" any more.
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