Ok so I was directed to this site for answers to my problems. 1st let me give a little history on the vehicle:
This is an 87' Bronco II
All wiring inside is from a 91' Explorer as are the axles
The 5.0 HO w/ AOD is from a 91' TBird
The smog pump has been eliminated and the holes in the heads pluged. The battery will not charge but the alternator checks out ok at local parts store. The routing of the belt and weather or not I can get a shorter belt are also in question. I routed the belt and it fits tight but I think it may be running the water pump backwards.
Any suggestions or solutions to my problems would be appreciated...
i,m not positive but I think all 5.o's with a serpintine belt rotate backwards. if the alternator is good then it has to be the battery or the regulator? checked those things?
Battery is new.. Regulator?
voltage regulator.
Dont think there is one on the truck...
Reg is in the alt, usually. Try a different battery?
When the ignition switch is in RUN the field current should be turned on in the alternator.
With a hacksaw blade feel for magnetism on the laminated plates part of the alternator. Don't start the car, key on magnetism, key off no magnetism.
If no magntism check for voltage on the "I" terminal wire to the voltage regulator part of the alternator with the ignition in run. It is probably a green with red stripe wire.
No voltage there, you probably didn't hook up the Alt/Batt warning light in the dash.The idiot light must be either hooked up or bypassed.
IF the water pump is driven from the back(slick) side of the belt the pump needs to be reverse rotation... If it runs from the ribbed side, it's std(clockwise) rotation... The full size 5.0 cars generally use a CW rotation while the Bird/Coug/Mustang/Mark VII use a CCW...
You no doubt have a wiring issue which is causing the no charge condition... Troubleshoot using softtouch's, suggestions...
thanks for all of the information
ok so I got the charging problem figured out and fixed with all the help thanks...
New Problem....
The AOD trans doesn't want to shift out through the gears, plenty of fluid and the TV cable is adjusted correctly. There is not a cooler on this setup at the moment, could that be the problem or just another thing that I do need to add, and not the actual problem.
Yup, as far as shifting the tranny has no idea if there is a cooler or not...
Make sure the lever is operating through it's full travel when you open/close the throttle... Often in the rust belt the levers can stick...
New question....
Would the torque converter cause my shifting or should I say not shifting problem?? If yes, next question is will the converter from an AODE be the same as one from AOD. Only reason I ask is that I got two 4.6L motors with AODE transmissions mounted to them in my garage. wouldn't cost to swap out.
Thanks Again for all of your help...
Nope the AODE uses a totally different converter with a internal clutch... The AOD uses a dual input shaft with 3rd & O/D being driven from a shaft that's splined directly into the front hub of the converter(AFIK a unique setup in OD transmissions)...
As you probably know the 4.6 has a different bolt pattern so those trannys won't bolt to a 5.0... BUT supposedly the early 4.6 in the Grand Marquis and Crown Vic (before 2-18-92) used a 5.0 pattern AOD(I had one, so I know they defiantly used the AOD)... Those also use a two bolt starter same as the 5.0... If you need another tranny, could be a possible source...
Is the fluid OK in that transmission??? It's fairly common for the grommet for the TV cable connector break, which causes low line pressure and usually burns up the direct clutch...
Fluid is all new... The two 4.6L's I have are from I think 96' Cougar and the other is from T-Bird but not sure on its year. Originally the TV cable was not properly connected but it is now. The truck was never put on the road when it wasn't hooked up correctly. Not sure if that would have damaged anything or not.
You have to drive it to do damage to the tranny with the TV cable disconnected...
ok so could the torque converter cause the shifting issues that i have?
The converter ain't likely your problem... If the inner shaft is broken that splines into the front hub of the converter(been there done that with the Super Coupe tranny in the Bird... Ever drive one 93miles in 2nd gear???), it will shift to 2nd and after that just free wheel... Also does same if direct clutch is burned up...
Assuming it doesn't have a mechanical failure, I'd guess you probably have a valve body or governor problem...
ok so changing the valve body and adding a shift kit should solve my shifting problems....
So I should ask where is the best place to buy a valve body for this transmission? And which company makes the most reliable shift kit for my application?
Your guess is as good as mine as to whether a VB will fix it...
Jegs has a modified VB for the AOD for $195(last time I checked), shift kit already installed...
one other question, I've read all over the internet that the internals excluding the VB can be switched into the AOD from the AODE do you know how hard of a task that might be and what may be needed to complete such a job? I drove the truck this morning and it shifted out fine until I had to come to a stop and start again which was 6 miles down the road. Any suggestions there? This is why I was leaning towards the VB switch and possible shift kit... Art Car has the VB for $75...
Maybe try some of these tricks. Otherwise I think I would start searching craigslist for a used good trans.
Nice truck btw. I always liked the BII
http://www.becontrols.com/ourfaqs/aodtroubleshoot_1.htm