My 88 cougar is going to swap to mass air, AOD, 3.27 rear gears.
My Mustang motor Im putting in, is Edelbrock performer heads, underdrive pulley,1.7 RR, full exhaust blah, blah. It already has a B cam installed in it. I am going to have a 70MM maf and 65 ish TB, intake will prob be Explorer with a ported Exp lower.
How will this do with the Cougar if dropped in as is, with the B cam?
Should I crack the motor open and drop in a stock 1990 GT cam?
Should I crack the motor open and maybe advance the B cam to drop the powerband down?
Should I buy a used TFS 1 cam and drop it in?
Looking for some advise. This car will need daily driveability and MPG duty, but dont want to leave a lot of wasted HP potential on the table. Make sense what Im after??
I really dont want to spend more money if I can make the junk I already have work reasonably well.
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The H.O. cam has unmatched mpg and horsepower levels from everything I have read. The b cam is only good if your going to wind it up alot, but to do that you should have a stronger valvetrain setup.
If you really want to make some power, sell the edelbrock heads and get some trickflows. I found 4 sets for $800 or less with suposedly low miles on the corral. If you just want to throw the motor in the do it that way.
I would go #1 stock H.O. cam, #2 trick flow cam, #3 b cam, if I had to use it.
I would leave it as is, with the eddys you will be fine, you might gain a few mpg with an ho cam, more than likely your driving style will determine that.
Stick the HO cam in. The FMS letter cams (ie E, B, X 303) are junk. The TF Stage 1 cams are no better than the FMS letter cams either...... Comp makes some nice cams but you really want to go with a custom but that is not always possible. If you have a stock HO cam sitting around use it.
Ummmmmmmmmmm ok, the tfs cam is way better than the letter cams
(newer technology).
Yes a custom cam if you have the money is the best route but if you want to change your combo in the future, may not be a good idea,also the money factor comes in with a custom grind(usually you can find a tfs1 for 100.00 and under).
The b cam is more of a stick or high stall cam,it won't be very good with a stock auto(loss of low end torque).
While the tfs heads are a bit better(5hp or so),the eddies will work just fine and give you plenty of flow,(they can also be had for around 6-700 not 8-850).
I run these heads(wish i had of went bigger do to the sc) and cam on my supercharged combo and make in excess of 500 ponies so they will do you just fine.
To answer your question though without spending anymore money,open up the engine and stick the HO cam in with the 1.7s,i ran this way before my stage1 install and it ran mint with lots of torque all the way up to 5500rpm.
On a side note you did not mention anything about injectors,24s would be optimal for that combo as well as a min 190lph fuel pump(recommend a 255lph for possible future upgrades).
Your 65mm will work but i would also recommend a 70mm for that combo,but again if money is a factor stick with the 65mm.
When I do the fuel pump, I was going to go with 255 or 255HP. Should support any future mods and there really is not much price difference on the Walbro's.
I wasnt sure about the injectors: 19 vs 24lb.
Was the HO cam installed straight up?
19lb injectors are just about maxed at around stock specs unless you turn up the fuel pressure.
24lb injectors would be good for what your going to run.
The ho cam is installed straight up.
walbro 255 gss307(i believe)will be fine.
Any junkyard finds to source 24lb injectors and a 70'ish MM MAF calibrated for 24's ?
What converter did you have in mind for that AOD?
With either the B cam OR the Trick Flow you'll want a higher than stock RPM stall. Think 2600 as a bare minimum for either. 2800-3000 would be good. Without a converter with either one you'll wonder why the car is a DOG from a standstill....
Even a stock HO cam with those heads and some 1.7 rockers would benefit from something a little higher than stock 22-2400 would be good.
I was kinda waiting on the cam choice to pick my stall RPM. I was looking at the Precision Stallion piece.
Anyone have experience with them?
I have a 9.5" Stallion, super piece... Has billet front cover machined down to just leave the mounting ears... It's a 2600 which is a bare minimum stall for my TF #1 cam, would be higher but I got a Hella deal on a almost new one... I should have sent it back for a restall, but was too lazy to pull it back out...
BTW the TF Stage1 & B303 are both a little rumpy, but if you like dealing with it then defiantly go for the TF...
Even more so with 1.7s lol.