Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

General => User Rides => Topic started by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 12:13:58 AM

Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 12:13:58 AM
delete
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 12:21:05 AM
The condition I found it in...

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_tbird1.jpg)

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_tbird3.jpg)

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_tbird2.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 12:22:47 AM
At it's new home...

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_thunderbird1.jpg)

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_thunderbird2.jpg)

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_thunderbird3.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 12:24:46 AM
(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_tbird4.jpg)

Initial cleaning...

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_thunderbird4.jpg)


Carpet stripped out...

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1984_thunderbird2_251357.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 12:37:00 AM
I spent the past three days doing this...

The interior even further gutted with the dash removed. Notice all the surface rust on the brackets. I will have to paint all these brackets to keep from rusting again. The driver's side floor board is not rusted... That is just rust dust from brushing away so much surface rust! The floorboards are unbelievably in like-new condition.

(http://forums.themustangsource.com/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/may_2009_f1.jpg)

The black metal cowl trim at the base of the windshield was complely rusted due to the leaves and debris that were collected from my Dad's trees. I have already found a used part in excellent condition. I spent some time hosing out leaves and debris out of the cowl area and inside fender wells. I also removed the door weather strips and cleaned the gunk off them and out of the roof drain rails. The large door seals are in remarkable condition. The outside and inside window belt molding seals are crumbled mess.

That's it for now until I have more time to work on it...
Title: Delete
Post by: Beau on May 28, 2009, 02:02:14 AM
You have your work cut out for you, but looks like you're off to a flyin' start.

Judging by the green mossy spot under and next to the car in the first pics, I'd venture a guess that you've looked underneath the car and checked it closely..?

Some turbines or 10-hole wheels (both from Mustangs, mostly) would probably look better than the wheels with the flat tires...and if the TRX tires hold air and aren't too terribly cracked/dry rotted, save 'em away for a rainy day. As you've found out, they're horrendously overpriced.
Good lookin' car. :D
Title: Delete
Post by: V8Demon on May 28, 2009, 09:46:14 AM
The floor looks solid!  Always a bonus!  Keep us updated!
Title: Delete
Post by: massCougarxr7 on May 28, 2009, 10:18:00 AM
Nice!!!! I like the wheels with the goodyars!!!
Title: Delete
Post by: 5.0 tbird on May 28, 2009, 04:00:11 PM
Looks like you're off to a nice start, make sure to post lots of pics.

What motor is it, 302 or 3.8?
Title: Delete
Post by: Chooglin on May 28, 2009, 04:07:40 PM
very nice,the car looks to be very solid.keep the pics coming,as you move along with the resto.
Title: Delete
Post by: doodaa on May 28, 2009, 04:43:44 PM
Looks like it'll be a while before you're worried about it but the brakes won't be that many $$$ to get back in shape if you go stock. I was surprised at how cheap new master cylinder, calipers, rear wheel cylinders, hoses and hardware kit for my '86 turned out to be. The big expense was brake fluid, to make sure all that "goo" was flushed from the system.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 11:52:59 PM
Quote from: massCougarxr7;274728
Nice!!!! I like the wheels with the goodyars!!!


The 14" rims that were on it were American Racing. I don't have a personal taste for them as I prefer something OE looking or something that looks Ford Motorsports styled. I will likely sell the American Racing rims and later the Michelin TRX wheels. I do like the Mustang GT/Cougar XR7 turbine wheels, however I have found some four hole 17" SVT wheels that I think will look great on this car. I thought maybe I would like the late Fox Mustang Pony star wheels but these days they don't seem to make enough of a statement to me. It's just a shame the Michelin TRX tires are expensive. I really love the original wheels.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 28, 2009, 11:54:15 PM
Thanks everyone for responding! I am excited to find a niche of people who enjoy thier Fox Birds and Cats!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 29, 2009, 12:02:26 AM
Quote from: 5.0 bird;274755
Looks like you're off to a nice start, make sure to post lots of pics.

What motor is it, 302 or 3.8?


5.0 (302)!

My former 1985 Tbird had the V8 as well. I miss that car!

165,000 miles when I bought it in 1997.

(http://forums.bradbarnett.net/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1985tbird5.jpg)

(http://forums.bradbarnett.net/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1985tbird4.jpg)

(http://forums.bradbarnett.net/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1985tbird7.jpg)

245,000 miles just after I sold it to someone where I used to work, about 2001 or so.

(http://forums.bradbarnett.net/gallery/files/1/0/5/6/2/5/1985tbird2.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 29, 2009, 12:07:20 AM
Quote from: doodaa;274761
Looks like it'll be a while before you're worried about it but the brakes won't be that many $$$ to get back in shape if you go stock. I was surprised at how cheap new master cylinder, calipers, rear wheel cylinders, hoses and hardware kit for my '86 turned out to be. The big expense was brake fluid, to make sure all that "goo" was flushed from the system.


I am pretty sure the brake booster will need replacement. When I took the pedal bracket off stripping the interior the shaft boot was broken and this strange gook which looked like chunks of brown sugar was falling out from the hole in the shaft boot.

I hope after replacing all the main brake parts and doing a good flush that the proportioning valve will be okay. The brakes is really serious step one. The car will run but I can't drive it with no brakes.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 29, 2009, 12:43:39 AM
Quote from: V8Demon;274724
The floor looks solid!  Always a bonus!  Keep us updated!


Yes the floor is very solid! It looked like new when I took the carpet out! I felt really good about it after seeing someone on this forum have to replace and fabricate a floor pan for his Cougar.
Title: Delete
Post by: daminc on May 29, 2009, 07:51:12 AM
Welcome to the restoration group. Looks like you got a good one to work with.
Title: Delete
Post by: Live Fast on May 29, 2009, 08:58:02 AM
What you want for the american racing rims? im taking the 10 holes off my mustang to put on the thunderbird this weekend and i need something to put back on the mustang just to roll it around, nothing fancy. plus i kinda like them lol they just need a good polish and cleaning.

BTW, the Thunderbird looks great! Looks like a nice solid project and your off to a great start! Keep it up man, keep the pics coming too! lol
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 29, 2009, 09:53:38 AM
Quote from: Live Fast;274860
What you want for the american racing rims? im taking the 10 holes off my mustang to put on the thunderbird this weekend and i need something to put back on the mustang just to roll it around, nothing fancy. plus i kinda like them lol they just need a good polish and cleaning.

BTW, the Thunderbird looks great! Looks like a nice solid project and your off to a great start! Keep it up man, keep the pics coming too! lol


The American Racing rims are in great shape. I did leave them at my parents house about 100 miles away. I had to prep the Tbird with tires that held air so it could be towed to my house. The original TRX wheels and tires were stored and I had to put new valve stems in them to hold air. It will take me some time to get the American Racing rims from my parents house so I am not quite situated to sell them yet.
Title: Delete
Post by: doodaa on May 29, 2009, 10:50:25 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;274829
.... The car will run but I can't drive it with no brakes.



Why not?!?! Just adds a little extra excitement. :D

I had some trouble with the rears but I think it was just the adjusters and not the prop valve. Blow some air through there while it's all apart if you want some extra 'clean power' but be careful disassembling, I broke a line because things were rusted up some and twisted when it should've floated. There's a dog down the road that's alive this morning and a black lockup patch to prove they're ok now. I'd leave the booster for last, if you start it with your foot on a solid pedal and the pedal doesn't tend downward then you need a new booster or have a vacuum leak.
Title: Delete
Post by: Live Fast on May 29, 2009, 11:09:21 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;274870
The American Racing rims are in great shape. I did leave them at my parents house about 100 miles away. I had to prep the Tbird with tires that held air so it could be towed to my house. The original TRX wheels and tires were stored and I had to put new valve stems in them to hold air. It will take me some time to get the American Racing rims from my parents house so I am not quite situated to sell them yet.


I understand, just shoot me a pm when you get ready. :D
Title: Delete
Post by: blu84302 on May 29, 2009, 07:59:36 PM
I admire anyone who rips the dash out of there vehicle.  That takes alot of guts!

I haven't made it as far as you have but one day I will. 

Keep up the good work!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 29, 2009, 11:52:13 PM
Yeah that looks pretty much like the sight I seen taking my dash apart. Just curious if you have a lot of cracks in the dash... Mine came apart in two pieces left and right and it was not supposed to!
Title: Delete
Post by: 85TBird5ltr on May 30, 2009, 12:42:40 AM
Dude  nice car=]  and the factory wheels  look like the ones off a factory 83-84 turbo coupe(extremely hard to find)  Keep us up to date  and i'd put more pics up of my 85 if i could figure out how
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 31, 2009, 01:19:07 AM
Quote from: 85TBird5ltr;275035
Dude  nice car=]  and the factory wheels  look like the ones off a factory 83-84 turbo coupe(extremely hard to find)  Keep us up to date  and i'd put more pics up of my 85 if i could figure out how


Those wheels were an original option on that car and not only for the Turbo Coupe. This car belonged to my step-mom who bought it brand new. I have the original window sticker for it!
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 03, 2009, 10:22:02 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;275026
Yeah that looks pretty much like the sight I seen taking my dash apart. Just curious if you have a lot of cracks in the dash... Mine came apart in two pieces left and right and it was not supposed to!



I think that is a common problem with these plastic dashes. The one I took out had a small crack in the middle and they are not real stiff so I'm sure if I pick it up in the middle the ends would sag and the crack would get bigger or break in half like you found. I've heard of other people with the same problem.

Quote
The driver's side floor board is not rusted... That is just rust dust from brushing away so much surface rust! The floorboards are unbelievably in like-new condition.


You can be thankful for that. Seems at least the 83-84 Birds have a weak spot for rust at the front of the front floor pans. I have an 83 I'm repairing now. I couldn't believe I found a good set of floors on a car in the junkyard here in the northeast. The rest of the car had some rust but the floors were like new.

For all the junkyard goers, keep looking for cars with good floors, that maybe something a lot of people will be looking for in the future.

Unfortunately I don't see many 83-84 Birds in the junkyards or for sale locally any more.

Good luck with your project!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 03, 2009, 11:48:31 PM
I got all the bare metal cleaned of surface rust and painted black with a rust inhibitor. All the parts really look great. I have most of the dash reassembled save for the plastic shell. I took time to get rid of all the original cloth electrical wrap which was just falling out in flakes anyway. I organized and tied all the dash wiring neatly with zipties. All the wiring is still in great shape. Another picture to follow as soon as I can take one.

The seat brackets and tracks turned out great also.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 05, 2009, 11:50:05 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;275026
Yeah that looks pretty much like the sight I seen taking my dash apart. Just curious if you have a lot of cracks in the dash... Mine came apart in two pieces left and right and it was not supposed to!


Was yours cracked in this area?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 05, 2009, 11:55:53 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;276011
Was yours cracked in this area?


Worse!
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 08, 2009, 08:16:04 AM
Ouch, Something else to look for in the junkyards!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 08, 2009, 10:27:47 AM
Quote from: rodsterh;276412
Ouch, Something else to look for in the junkyards!


Yeah, if I can find one! My step mother was the original owner of this car so she did not abuse it. The dash decided to get brittle and crack after all these years. Years of shear heat cooked it to the point it is like a cracker.
Title: Delete
Post by: Chuck W on June 08, 2009, 10:31:53 AM
I pulled the dash from my '84 XR-7 before I sped it.  IIRC it's in decent shape. 
Won't ship it though...
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 08, 2009, 09:35:43 PM
Quote from: Chuck W;276445
I pulled the dash from my '84 XR-7 before I sped it.


Smart move!:)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 09, 2009, 10:26:26 PM
Today I went to the salvage yard and found a few parts. Nicer condition chrome door lock s, 1987-88 style wiper switch/lever and turn signal lever, a bright trim for the brake pedal pad off a 1983 or so Lincoln Continental and three square stereo cassette FF/RW buttons that I had missing.

On eBay I found a black four spoke steering wheel like the 1980-83 models have. I like four spoke wheels better than the original 1984 A-frame. All I need is a cap with the Tbird emblem for the center. Along with this purchase came wiper and turn signal switches. I might need to use the turn signal switch for the horn function as was not in the pad before 1984.

I also purchased on eBay a LH taillamp in decent condition.

The latest restoration picture shows all the rusty metal painted black.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 10, 2009, 08:52:54 AM
Looking good.    Be glad you have solid floors!  That's what stalled my project.

I'll be interested to see how your conversion to a 83 stalk mounted horn work out. I would think it should be easy but with Ford you never know.

I think ??? I have a decent PS taillight lens..lens only... if you need one.
Title: Delete
Post by: ~AC on June 10, 2009, 06:02:49 PM
NICE.  The int is night and day now.  lookin good so far, i can tell i need to start watchin your car now to see where it goes.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 10, 2009, 09:54:09 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;276817
Looking good.    Be glad you have solid floors!  That's what stalled my project.

I'll be interested to see how your conversion to a 83 stalk mounted horn work out. I would think it should be easy but with Ford you never know.

I think ??? I have a decent PS taillight lens..lens only... if you need one.


The turn signal stalk horn is easy. I have the 83 style turn signal switch which I purchased with the four spoke wheel. However I may come across a horn pad that will work in the four spoke wheel. This would be a pad from later Ford models. However if I use a pad from later Fords, it will not have a Tbird emblem. I really do want the 1980-83 style Tbird steering wheel center trim with emblem.


Thanks for offering the RH taillamp lens, but mine is in good condition. The LH one just had a complete break in the reflector area next to the license plate.

I suppose I could obsess on finding the most perfect parts but finding many parts now is near impossible. For some reason I kinda enjoy something that is not quite perfect or moderately worn.

If I was looking for perfection I would seek out Chip Foose if I could afford him... LOL!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 10, 2009, 09:57:59 PM
Quote from: ~AC;276870
NICE.  The int is night and day now.  lookin good so far, i can tell i need to start watchin your car now to see where it goes.


I am so anxious to get the interior resinstalled but I cannot do anything until I get all the mechanicals done. Plus I have no idea at this point if I will need to pull the dash to replace the heater core or evaporator. I have speakers to replace, one RH window motor and both door lock actuators to replace. I also want to hold off until I get the exterior refinished so the body shop won't ruin the interior.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 10, 2009, 10:01:46 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;276757


I forgot to mention that earlier I had already replaced the shift lever with the 1985-88 type. Not only is the shift lever and matching switch gear used in Cougars but it was also used in Continentals and Mark VII's.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 14, 2009, 11:18:49 PM
I went to Pull-A-Part today and got a load of stuff for $20.

I snagged a black steering column cover off a 88 Cougar plus I got the tilt wheel lever, turn signal stalk and wiper switch. To my surprise this 88 Cougar had a 1983-86 Thunderbird front end panel installed on it. It certainly looked funny! Because of this I was able to snag the RH headlamp door trim. My original is cracked.

I installed all the parts today plus the 1983 style four spoke black wheel. I found a temporary horn pad (burgandy vinyl with Ford logo) out of a later model Crown Vic that dropped in nicely. Also, out of that Crown Vic I snagged a bright finish set of cruise control switches which had the extra leads for the horn switch in the center pad.

I went ahead and installed the 1983 turn signal switch with the horn on the end of the turn signal lever. Believe it or not there was no wiring modifications. Just plugging in the 83 turn signal switch into the 84 harness made the horn activate when you press in the stalk. Since I am using the 1985-88 turn signal lever, I had to file a notch in the front end of the metal portion of the stalk so that it would engage the horn switch lobe inside the hole. If you install the lever without filing this notch the lever will not push in to activate the horn.

I suppose I will have to sacrifice the function of the horn in the center pad if I get a 1980-83 steering wheel center trim with the Tbird emblem. No Tbird center trim was made for this wheel which included the horn switch. So I will have to settle for the horn being on the end of the turn signal stalk.

I snagged a heater and AC control panel from a late model Mustang which has the rotary dials. Unfortunately the Mustang control panels uses a dual cable setup with pullies and there is no way I can figure to rig it up to work. I should have read the PDF file on Coolcats.com for this conversion before I went to the salvage yard today. I needed to find a control panel from a 1990-91 Taurus/Sable which uses the single hot/cold cable.

I also snagged a 3rd brake lamp assembly from a 1986 Tbird. I have to paint it black.

After messing around with all that stuff today, I went ahead and looked at the master cylinder and power booster. I was afraid that I would need a new power booster. I took it off the car, tested it by pressing the lever in and then hooked up the vacuum while the engine was running and it seems to be okay. I used a steel brush to brush away the bubbled paint which was damaged due to the master cylinder leaking. I ran out of time this evening before dark, so I will later clean the booster and put a new coat of black paint on it.

The master cylinder is toast. It is all gummed up with gook where the brake fluid went bad. I am going to have to replace the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, front calipers, brake hoses as well as install new brake linings are hardware. I will have to flush the brake lines. I hope the proportioning valve will be okay.

I need to focus on completing the brake work and getting a good set of conventional wheels and tires. If I can safely move the car and stop it, the rest of the work I need to do to the Bird will be easier to do.

I have such a long way to go. I can hardly wait for it to become drivable. I have not been able to drive this car yet.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 18, 2009, 09:18:45 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;276949
Plus I have no idea at this point if I will need to pull the dash to replace the heater core or evaporator.


You shouldn't have to pull the dash out but it's still a tight fit.

Didn't you have your dash out?
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on June 18, 2009, 09:21:09 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;277440
And if by chance you find a 83-84 Tbird or Cougar with woodgrain dash panel trim in decent condition I'd be interested in those trim parts.


Here's the right side...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-FORD-T-bird-Heritage-RH-Dash-Cover-w-Vents-OEM_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem2c4f45c0bcQQitemZ190308532412QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 19, 2009, 12:28:18 AM
Quote from: rodsterh;278570
You shouldn't have to pull the dash out but it's still a tight fit.

Didn't you have your dash out?


Oh yeah I have it out now, just waiting to eventually put the new carpet in because the dash is so delicate I don't want to risk cracking it anywhere near where the center stack and console meet.
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on June 19, 2009, 08:23:42 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;278619
Oh yeah I have it out now, just waiting to eventually put the new carpet in because the dash is so delicate I don't want to risk cracking it anywhere near where the center stack and console meet.


I have heard that you can soften the dash by treating it with GOJO hand cleaner. I think I heard it on an episode of My Classic Car when Dennis was interviewing the owner of Just Dashes.

Nonetheless, I will be trying this trick on my old cracked dash soon, and I'll let you know how it goes.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 19, 2009, 09:43:54 AM
Quote from: ProTouring442;278643
I have heard that you can soften the dash by treating it with GOJO hand cleaner. I think I heard it on an episode of My Classic Car when Dennis was interviewing the owner of Just Dashes.

Nonetheless, I will be trying this trick on my old cracked dash soon, and I'll let you know how it goes.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


Oh I was referring to the entire hard plastic dash shell (see previous posts with pics) and not the top pad. The top pad is toast. It has a giant split and literally the consistancy of burnt toast. I plan to just fill the giant spilt with a can of insulating foam and recover the original pad in vinyl because I do not like those hard plastic dash caps (which I do have one handed to me from my parents who planned to use it but never installed it). I have seen classic restorations where they just covered the pads in vinyl or leather and they look great.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 19, 2009, 09:47:45 AM
Quote from: rodsterh;278570
You shouldn't have to pull the dash out but it's still a tight fit.

Didn't you have your dash out?


That's interesting because when I had my 1985 Tbird many years ago I absolutely had to loosen the dash at all the mounts and pull it forward to get to the heater core... I have gotten so good with disassembly and reassembly that I can do these things pretty quick without getting overwhelmed.
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on June 19, 2009, 11:53:18 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;278653
Oh I was referring to the entire hard plastic dash shell (see previous posts with pics) and not the top pad. The top pad is toast. It has a giant split and literally the consistancy of burnt toast. I plan to just fill the giant spilt with a can of insulating foam and recover the original pad in vinyl because I do not like those hard plastic dash caps (which I do have one handed to me from my parents who planned to use it but never installed it). I have seen classic restorations where they just covered the pads in vinyl or leather and they look great.


Ah... well, I will still report on my experiments with the GoJo. My parts car has a perfect black dash that I hope to swap without breaking it.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 19, 2009, 11:15:24 PM
Quote from: ProTouring442;278680
Ah... well, I will still report on my experiments with the GoJo. My parts car has a perfect black dash that I hope to swap without breaking it.

Shiny Side Up!

Bill


I always hear great things about GoJo since I sell a lot of it at work. I had a customer who's wife won't clean stains out of carpet with anything but GoJo.
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on June 20, 2009, 07:45:08 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;278795
I always hear great things about GoJo since I sell a lot of it at work. I had a customer who's wife won't clean stains out of carpet with anything but GoJo.


My father has a cool little runabout, a Larson All American 19ft with a cuddy cabin, that has been kept at our house for the last several years. At some point, the fan that keeps moisture down shut down, and the interior vinyl all molded/mildewed. Last year I spent hours attempting to get the mold/mildew out of the upholstery with nearly no success despite using products "guaranteed" to work.

the other day, just for giggles, I tried GOJO on a spot, just to see what would happen... any guesses? Yeah, it very quickly removed ALL of the staining! I guess I'll be purchasing a gallon or two, eh!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: blu84302 on June 20, 2009, 10:17:47 AM
Doesn't GoJo have kerosene in it? 

Don't you hate it when someone puts sand in your GoJo?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 11, 2009, 11:19:03 PM
Did a little work today. I was easily able to convert the HVAC controls to the rotary type. The donor HVAC control was from an ealy 90's Taurus which has the manual single cable for the cold/hot door. The wiring was a piece of cake! I cut the connectors with pigtails out of the Taurus. After examining the wire colors in the Tbird, i was easily able to pop the terminals out of the Tbird harness and install them into the Taurus connectors. I hooked the battery up and it all works like a champ. All I have to concern myself with now is relocating the rear defogger switch.

I am disgusted with the brittle plastic dash shell. I am seriously considering a 94-04 Mustang dash swap.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 12, 2009, 10:15:50 PM
Okay I bit the bullet and I am doing the Mustang dash swap. This is not going to be an easy swap to get it to fit right.

I got disgusted with the original dash shell breaking into pieces so I am going to try this one and see how it works out.

I bought the dash almost complete at Pull-A-Part. If I cannot make this work I am going to have to switch to an 85-88 style dash. I just cannot find good 83-84 style dashes. I also want something durable.

If you look at the white marks on the dash, they came out with Go-Jo...  The dash is in decent shape. It's still soft and pliable.. Not brittle at all! I just have a few parts to get for it like the center stack trim, clock and side window defroster vents. I was able to make this a more complete dash by c00ching ac vents from a beige interior car and I also have the gauge trim bezel not shown here. I am lucky to find one with an airbag, though deployed. I have already removed the actual bag from the airbag unit. I plan to tape the cover shut with duct tape or maybe some silicone along the seam where it split. I will cover it in vinyl for a finished look.

These dashes are great! They come with the defroster vents assembled into it. So it was like undo a few bolts and it came right out comeplete. It is interesting how there is a large horizontal steel tube that gives the dash strength for support and safety yet also serves as the cold air trasport to the left and right dash vents.

I did a test fit. There is definitely several mating issues but I hope to work them out so I can use this dash. All the Mustang consoles in the salvage yard were broken and distroyed after people yanked them out without proper disassembly trying to get to the shifters.
Title: Delete
Post by: 32VFoxBird on July 14, 2009, 12:26:15 AM
you'll basically be cutting the defroster vent off to fit the thing in your bird. along with the large steel tube for the air vents.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 14, 2009, 03:01:29 AM
Quote from: 32VFoxBird;282114
you'll basically be cutting the defroster vent off to fit the thing in your bird. along with the large steel tube for the air vents.


That steel tube is such a strange design. It makes the dash so heavy but i am sure it was incorporated for structural safety and integrity.

 I am now undecided whether I really want to do all that cutting and fabricating just to make it fit. Maybe I just need enough time to work on it. I got the dash super cheap so it's no loss if I do not use it. A big obsticle would also be the instrument cluster.

I may just look for a good dash out of a 85-88 Tbird or Cougar. Those cars are still a plenty, but it's now impossible to find anything 1983-84 style. Even if I could, I would still have major issues with the plastic snapping like peanut brittle.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 18, 2009, 09:30:20 AM
I spent some times experimenting to see how I would like the Mustang dash in my Tbird. Since I had almost nothing innvested I thought I would give it a try.

Instead of trying to use the metal frame that came with the Mustang dash, I found it easier to take the dash shell off the frame and lay it over the Tbird frame. I cut the front edge of the dash shell a few inches so it will fit closer to the windhield. There was actually enough gap that I could preserve the defroster function. i was able to screw the dash shell to a few places on the Tbird dash frame. I was even able to make the Mustang defroster vent butt up satisfactorily to the Tbird heat/defroster housing. However after this experiment I just was not satisfied with the rigitity of the Mustang dash shell in the car plus I also needed to figure a way to secure the dash to the base under the windshield.  At this point I started feeling like it just wasn't right for me to use this dash, so I was easily able to remove it quickly and just reinstall my peanut brittle original dash shell over the dash frame. After I got the original dash shell back on and completely assembled and screwed in place I felt much better and it is still tons more rigid assembled with the correct parts fitting together. Fortunately none of the cracked places in the original dash shell show with all the trim panels back in place.

Interesting thing I did with the Mustang dash shell installed was use a 1989-93 Tbird steering column shroud to give it the squared modern steering column look. I had to modify it to allow operation of the auto shift lever on the column but the Tbird shroud fit perfectly within the Mustang steering column opening.

With the original Tbird dash back in place I tried the 1989-93 column shroud in place and it seems to work fine with the exception of the circular gap in the lower dash pad which extends just a little below the column shroud. The 1989-93 Tbird coulum shroud will work best if the turn signal switch is converted to the 1989-93 Tbird type with the single combination wiper/turnsignal/dimmer stalk and switch. I have examined the 1989-93 Tbird steering column and it is basically the same old Fox vehicle one without a column shift and using a single turn signal/wiper stalk instead of the old two stalk switches. The newer single stalk will bolt to the same mounting screw locations as the older two stalk switches. It would be just an issue of making sure the wiring plugs in or not, or making the wiring connector adjustments so that the newer single stalk will function. My only issue is I do need the horn on the end of the turn signal stalk because I will be using the rectangular steering wheel trim for the 1983 style four spoke wheel. The rectangular trim does not include a horn function but I wanted the bird emblem in the center of that wheel. I have a newer Crown Vic Ford logo vinyl horn pad with the horn function, but I think it would look less like a truck wheel with the Tbird trim in place.

Fun and interesting experiment but I sure felt much better going back with the original dash.

Any dash swaps into our Tbirds and Cougars are best done with other Fox bodied cars besides the SN-95 Mustang. It requires no modifications to the dash shell with only instrument cluster wiring modifications and compatability with the speedometer function and HVAC controls if not a few other minor things.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 18, 2009, 10:04:49 AM
So here it is with the original Tbird dash reinstalled. I feel better with the integrity and design of the original dash in place. As long as the dash shell holds out and does not crack in a visible place I will be happy. I really do love the lower vinyl knee pads which are in great shape. I later plan to respray the painted dash shell and center console in the visible areas for a fresh look if I can find the correct color to match. This will not involve removing the dash again, but rather masking around the areas to be resprayed which is only the areas on the ends of the dash and the portions that show on the sides of the center stack flowing down to the console.

The original top dash pad will be recovered in vinyl and I will likely have custom stitching across the front edge. I suppose I will do this along with the console lid as well since the padded lid is not in the greatest shape cosmetically.

I decided to go back with the grey steering column shroud instead of using a black one. Soon I will be installing the 1990-91 Taurus HVAC rotary controls with a relocated rear defroster switch which will go in the lower center stack trim panel in place of the switch used for the premium sound system switch. The premium sound system amplifier appears to be toast so I will remove that switch and the amplifer will be bypassed easily with the added on wiring harness removed. I didn't reinstall the amplifier in the upper dash. I will use the original audio head unit for now until I can decide to replace it with something else or not.

I really like the four spoke wheel. All I am waiting for now is a virgin NOS Tbird center trim that I just won off eBay! If that trim gets here in one piece I will be very happy.

So for the interior at this point, I just have a few underdash things to reassemble. I need to order the carpet and headliner material, then proceded to gut the trim panels in the rear seat area and get those to look as best as possible. I also need to order carpet to recover the rear window shelf and install the 1986 3rd brake light.

I also need to turn my attention to reinstalling the armrest/map pockets to the door panels which is going to take some creative re-attachment since they typically had broken at some of the mounting tabs just like most of these vehicles have done. I also have to get creative and figure a way to cover the areas where the power door lock switches normally are mounted. I hate the poor assembly of the original switches plus the mounting plates are broken and will not reattach. The later year armrest/map pockets relocated them just ahead of the armrests.

I really need to turn my attention to the mechanical condition of the car. A lot to do here. I want this thing on the road!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 18, 2009, 10:28:37 AM
The NOS Tbird steering wheel trim I just won on eBay! Now I am pondering to spray the wheel gray to match. The wheel will get a new leather wrap. I saved the old worn wrap intact as a template for easy duplication. Maybe I can get the wrap done extra thick for a more subtancial feel and look. If I can remember to push in the end of the stalk for the horn if I ever need it that will be good. The design of the Tbird trim is just too good to not use it.

(http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20268&stc=1&d=1247927244)
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on July 18, 2009, 02:48:14 PM
Very cool!

I know what you mean when it comes to "getting it on the road!" My '88 needs to be done Now-Now-Now!! :)

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 20, 2009, 11:34:10 AM
Today I am torn making a decision between maintaining the original Oxford Gray carpeting color or going for a dark constrast using a charcoal or darker gray...
Title: Delete
Post by: Live Fast on July 20, 2009, 11:48:37 AM
The darker carpet would show less dirt but the lighter color looks great too!

I like the sn95 dash in your car but the steering wheel looked out of place then, looks much better with the stock dash!

Its coming along great! Keep it up!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 20, 2009, 12:16:12 PM
Quote from: Live Fast;282930
The darker carpet would show less dirt but the lighter color looks great too!

I like the sn95 dash in your car but the steering wheel looked out of place then, looks much better with the stock dash!

Its coming along great! Keep it up!


Yeah I sure was torn between using the sn95 dash and keeping the original one. I really like the sn95 dash in the AeroBird, esecially since the 1958-63 models had the dual cowl dashes that preceded the Mustang. The sn95 dash ended up being too much of a hack job and jury rig to give it integrity. I would have been better off swapping a dash from a later Tbird or Fox Mustang because those are pretty much designed to fit. The sn95 was redesigned so much from the Fox Mustang that nothing aligned well requireing too much fabrication. In the pictures, the only thing holding the sn95 dash to the Tbird dash frame was three screws... One on each end and one inside the right side of the glove box opeing. At that point I just was satisfied to amuse myself with the possibility and see what it could look like. I thought about the issue of the old thin steering wheel and I pondered other possibilities of using a later model wheel from a Tbird, however later model Fords mount the wheels with with a center bolt instead of a nut. Again more effort to make things work that were not designed to work together in the first place. I did like how the 89 Tbird steering wheel shroud looked with the sn95 dash.

I am still pleased I am able to use the original dash after all. Looking at my 08 Mustang, I do see somewhat of a similarity in basic dash design, basically the horizontal full width theme with the "T" shape that extends into the center stack trim.

I do love the 1985-88 Tbird dash and that would be an easy swap. However I do like the idea of preserving the original two-year only simpler dash just to appreciate it for what it was and maintain the model year intergrity. I do love the vinyl knee pads!

With many of the cars I have owned I always got excited to try an updated part design here and there. I even wanted to do some of that with my 08 Mustang console using 2010 parts. However I decided to just leave it alone because it's not worth it to me to deal with mismatches and the extra expense.

When I had my 1989 Z28, I do remember when the Camaro updated the instrument cluster trim in 1990 after the cars were fitted with steering wheel airbags. I was able to make the cluster trim fit along with the additional padded knee bar but it was not long after I felt like putting it back the way it was. I guess I am just that way and I always have to remind myself that I usually go back using the original design. Sometimes I just have to entertain a thought and once I resolve it, I let go of it and it does not remain important anymore.

I am rambling on here with thoughts I know...

One thing I have no regrets about is deciding to go with the four spoke 1983 steering wheel. I just always hated the A frame wheel with no spokes at 3 and 9 to rest my hands. I need the cruise control function so using a three spoke Mustang SVO style wheel was out of the question, though I do like that wheel. With the four spoke wheel I am hoping when recovering with a leather wrap I can somehow have it made to where it is padded thicker for a more substantial less-thin rimmed feel.

I am also hoping I can settle on some OEM wheel rims to replace the TRX ones. I really like the ones Vinnie just bought for his 'Bird but at this stage I really just want something to use to get going without resorting to non-OEM look rims like what my step-mother had on it when I picked up the car.
Title: Delete
Post by: Katmaglia on July 20, 2009, 01:14:34 PM
I didn't know all those pieces came out. The light blue interior is pretty. It looks so much more wholesome than my red velvet. It looks like a nice car.
Title: Delete
Post by: Chuck W on July 20, 2009, 01:33:02 PM
Quote from: Katmaglia;282945
It looks so much more wholesome than my red velvet.


Now THAT is funny...:rollin:
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 20, 2009, 09:11:11 PM
Quote from: Chuck W;282947
Now THAT is funny...:rollin:


LOL! Now that is funny!

I had w red in my 1985 Tbird. I loved it!

The color I have is Oxford Gray. I guess it looks kinda bluey because of the pictures but it's a nice lighter shade of gray, a little different that the run of the mill gray you see in most modern cars.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 20, 2009, 09:21:28 PM
Did some more work today. I painted the brake booster which the finish had been ate up with brake fluid. Hopefully that booster will work okay once I start using it again.

I finished more of the dash assembly. I noticed since I did away with the premium sound amplifier which is dead, the wiring harness contained the connector and wires for the dash clock. I am puzzled how this can be rewired into the system. There are only two wires for the clock. Logic tells me that there should be three. One a ground, the other constant 12v+ and 12+ with the ignition on. That is not the case here and I am not sure how to make it function again. I tried jumping the clock wires to 12V+ and ground and it did not work.

I also reinstalled the passenger seat track onto the seat and mounted it back in the car until I can get the carpet.

I changed out the cracked LH taillamp for a used one I bought off eBay.

I took a look at the underside of the rear of the car. It seems the rust I was worried about is sitting right on the surface and can be brushed away. Nothing has penetrated the factory primer and coatings.

Time to turn my attention to the mechanicals. This will be a long road!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 21, 2009, 11:11:38 PM
I got my virgin Tbird steering wheel emblem trim today! I am very happy! It took all of 10 seconds to install it! The one thing I noticed is that since it is from a 1980-82 model, it has a nice brushed aluminum perimeter with the black inset unlike the 1983 models which were all black or with woodgrain perimeter.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 25, 2009, 10:49:12 PM
Here is a couple of pictures of the new steering wheel center trim!

Also one new side profile shot of the Bird...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 30, 2009, 06:17:23 AM
Yaller gonna probably laugh at me but I settled on a set of wheel covers instead of rims for the interim time until I get to the place that I can get the Bird completely restored and refinished to blow money on rims like Vinnie's. The wheel covers are a nice set from a 1980-82 Tbird. I am going to get some 14" steel wheels. For some reason I like many of the old wheel covers Thunderbird's used over the decades. I even experimented with my  paint brush program to see what some of them would look like on the car.

1957, 1958, 1980-82

I found a set of 1957 on eBay but I stopped bidding on them because right now I just didn't want to pay too much for something I may change later. I did think the retro-classic look was nice with the bullet centers and white Ford circle inset.

I found the set of 1980-82 wheel covers in good condition. Keep in mind my car is sitting in an uneven spot in my driveway and looks jacked on the passenger side.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 30, 2009, 06:23:39 AM
Others considered 1980-82 Luxury, 1983-86 Standard, 1981-82 Granada "Mercedes style"
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 30, 2009, 06:26:55 AM
Others considered:

Fairmont Turbine, Granada/Maverick and classic Mercury radial finned.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 30, 2009, 06:30:31 AM
Not having resolved my no run condition, I replaced the master cylinder and fix all my bulbs out in the instrument cluster that were not making good contact in the bulb sockets. I changed out the instrument lighting to blue bulbs so they look blue and not green. Surprised it only took four bulbs for that. I may go back at a later time and buy all LED's to replace them.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 04, 2009, 02:53:54 PM
Hey, when you did the rotary panel conversion, did you reuse your old cable, or the one out of the donor car?
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on August 04, 2009, 04:27:46 PM
Absolutely NONE of those wheel/hubcap options are a good choice.Nice wheels (factory style especially) are out there,super cheap.The only hubcaps I've ever seen that look good are dog dishes on muscle cars,and some 5 spokes on old Shelbys.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 04, 2009, 10:17:00 PM
Quote from: jrad235;285211
Hey, when you did the rotary panel conversion, did you reuse your old cable, or the one out of the donor car?


Since I am still having problems with the no-run condition I turned my attention away to some things I can make progress on.

I just completed the work on the rotary panel today. Previously, I wired up all the connectors. Now I had to turn attention to making the cable work. Not as hard as I thought it was going to be considering I am using the original Tbird cable.

I cut the multi-looped Tbird cable end off and run it through the hole in the slider on the hot-cold gear-slide mechanism. I left the original cable grommet-clip in place but set it to the inside of the Taurus grommet-clip opening. The Tbird grommet-clip base where it meets the cable sleeve fits inside the Taurus cable clip opening. It protrudes to the outside of the Taurus  grommet-clip base. I secured it on the outside with a simple small hose clamp. It works perfectly but the Tbird hot-cold flap does not have the travel range that the Taurus does so cold is 9 o'clock and hot is 3 o'clock.

It was very easy to connect the vacuum lines. There is a large vacuum connecter junction to the left and behind the glovebox. I unplugged it and ran the long Taurus hoses to it. It was as simple for me as sliding them into the vaccum connector junction. Now all I need is an engine that runs to create vacuum to test it all out.

The wiring connectors to the fan and mode switches was simple, no splicing. All I did was remove the terminals from the old connectors and reinstall them into the Taurus ones. Direct swap. The Tbird fan switch connector is different than the Taurus one which is square. All you have to do is match up the same colored wires to the same position. The mode switch connector is the same for both cars, however you have to switch positions of a couple wires in the Taurus connector. The panel backlighting connector is a must splice since it is completely different.


With that success, it was time to relocate the rear desfroster switch. I snagged a rectangular one out of the same salvage yard Taurus. Since I completely did away with the premium sound amplifier which was inoperable, I opened up the premium sound on-off switch opening just enough to fit the Taurus rear defroster switch in. The two large main wires were easy to swap the terminals from the old connector to the Taurus one, but I did have to splice the other three wires. The Taurus rear defroster switch has one extra wire for backlighting with the dash lights. I simply tied that into the wire that illuminates the hole inside the cigarette lighter. I tested the switch out and it works perfectly.

After working on all of that I decided to remove the headliner and all the inside roof rail trim, pillar trim and interior quarter panels. I removed the rear window shelf carpet as well. I cleaned everything. I also sed clean the backing board for the headliner so the new one will stick. I stripped the material off the sunvisors as well.

While the car was gutted, I ran wire for the 3rd brake lamp to the rear package tray.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 04, 2009, 10:31:08 PM
Todays pictures...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 04, 2009, 11:56:39 PM
On the way...
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 05, 2009, 12:45:58 AM
Quote
I cut the multi-looped Tbird cable end off and run it through the hole in the slider on the hot-cold gear-slide mechanism. I left the original cable grommet-clip in place but set it to the inside of the Taurus grommet-clip opening. The Tbird grommet-clip base where it meets the cable sleeve fits inside the Taurus cable clip opening. It protrudes to the outside of the Taurus grommet-clip base. I secured it on the outside with a simple small hose clamp. It works perfectly but the Tbird hot-cold flap does not have the travel range that the Taurus does so cold is 9 o'clock and hot is 3 o'clock.

And that is exactly what I wanted to know, thank you very much sir!
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on August 05, 2009, 04:11:21 AM
Indeed, Thank you for the info.
I think i'll be doing this soon.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 05, 2009, 09:24:16 AM
Quote from: Romeo2k;285349
Indeed, Thank you for the info.
I think i'll be doing this soon.


Fellas, be sure to look for a rotary panel that uses the cable control. I got mine out of a 1991 Taurus. Some of the later model years use an electric control. Also, I considered using one from a 1994-04 Mustang but it has the dual cable with the pulleys and there is no way to adapt it to operate with the hot-cold damper control.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 05, 2009, 10:19:58 AM
Thanks for the heads up, I pulled mine from a 91 Sable, the 92 Sable was all electric.
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on August 05, 2009, 10:49:06 AM
What about one from a fox-Mustang, like from a '90?

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 06, 2009, 07:11:29 PM
Couldn't tell ya. In the writeup, it lists the 92-96 Stang as a donor, but I cannot verify this.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 10, 2009, 12:32:54 AM
Quote from: jrad235;285592
Couldn't tell ya. In the writeup, it lists the 92-96 Stang as a donor, but I cannot verify this.


The 94-04 Mustangs have a dual cable and pulley that is not compatable with the Tbird/Cougar hot-cold flap lever. Tried and verified. No way to make it work.

You have to find a donor car that uses a single cable.

Also, take a close look at my picture with the radio/hvac trim off. Look at the rotary panel mounting screws. The rotary panel is slightly too narrow to reach full width accross. I lined up the panel to the left and lowered it slightly so it centers in the trim bezel opeing . The screws on the right do not go through the rotary panel but catch the outer edge. It worked out best this way because with the radio/hvac trim panel in place the graphics around the right side of the mode rotary  are not cut off or hidden by the trim plate.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 10, 2009, 10:28:53 PM
The engine decided to run today! The fuel must have stabilized or something. I have no idea what but it's running. I was able to move the car to the side of the house so it would stop taking up my driveway.

Well, since I got the engine running I was able to test the HVAC rotary panel for function since I now had vaccum. It works flawlessly!

Also, the last day off I had I took out the headliner and sunvisors and stripped the material off and sed the base board clean. The headliner material basically turned into dust!  I also removed all the interior trim panels in the rear seat area and cleaned them. I removed the rear package shelf carpet which is in bad shape. I have to save it as a template for the new carpet.

That day I discovered that the left taillamp lens has a crack in the wraparound corner that I had not noticed before. I bought it off eBay and when I received it I never noticed the crack. I installed it on the car and perhaps some stupid kid here in the neighborhood ran a bike up against it or something. Who knows. But I guess I will be looking for another taillamp or lens.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 14, 2009, 01:47:35 AM
The engine is still running!

Today, I worked on the detached armrests that are famous for breaking away from the interior door panels. I went to Lowe's and bought some small angle brackets, speed nuts, small fender washers and stainless steel screws. I drilled a few holes in the right places and reattached the armrests with all that simple hardware.

My biggest challenge was figuring out how to reattached the power door lock buttons and bezels. They both had broken tabs which holds it on the forward end in the slot in the door panel and I just about figured they were a total loss. My persistance looking in Lowe's paid off. I went down the electrical aisle and found these very thin support plates that are used to mount electrical outlet boxes into drywall. I cut them apart with tin snips, drilled holes to mount them to one of the speed nuts that holds the lock button to the bezel and bent the long tabs back against the back of the door panel.

After the success of getting the armrests to better than factory sturdy, I decided to go to Pull-A-Part.

I found four steel rims for $7 each. I will need these to use the 1980-82 Tbird stainless steel  wheel covers I bought off eBay. a bonus was that two of the rims are mounted on tires that hold air and have decent tread.

I discovered today that the left front original TRX wheel is bent, therefore not seating well at the bead and loosing air. So now I have backup tires on rims to get the car moved around.

I gotta paint the steel rims with a fresh coat of paint. Three came off a 1986 Cougar and one off a Mustang.

While I was at Pull-A-Part I found an buttstuffog clock. It was very cheap. I tried it out when I got home and it runs but not consistantly. The only reason I got it was because I thought my digital clock was bad, but DUH, I forgot to plug the wiring harness into it. After I plugged it back in, I still thought it was bad... DUH again!... I forgot I pulled the fuse for the dome lights so I would not run down the battery while working on the car.

I also got two other items, a sleeker dome lamp assembly from a later model Taurus (my original was corroded and pitted chrome) and an inside rearview mirror with dual maplights.

While I was looking in the salvage yard I came accross a 85 or so Lincoln Continental with real honest to God wood inserts on the dash. It had light yellow colored wood. It even had a pliable non-cracked dash pad. It would have been a direct drop in unlike the SN95 Mustang dash I test fitted. I got excited for just a minute thinking how cool it would be to swap the peaunut brittle dash in the Tbird for the Continental one. Then I thought about all the electronic digital dash functions and diagnostic warning lamps and tripminder computer the Continental had and realized I should forget about it. However, it was a beautiful dash!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 14, 2009, 01:51:44 AM
More stuff...
Title: 1984 Thunderbird Restoration Update 08-17-09
Post by: Watchdevil on August 17, 2009, 06:20:17 PM
Spent some time yesterday in Pull-A-Part again. I snagged some rear inside quarter panel dome lights from a Cougar. I also snagged some power window, seat and mirror switches from a Grand Marquis which have the chrome finish. I just thought it would brighten things up in the center console. I also pulled a healamp switch  that has a ring of bright chrome as opposed to the all black I have now.

I also snagged a good set of headlamp buckets from a Cougar that I needed to replace the ones that rusted out.

Oh yeah, I pulled the remote mounted TFI module and heatsink from that same Cougar. I definitely want to get the heat away from the distributor mounted module so it will be relocated.

I also pulled from that Cougar a decent black steering column shroud.

I got a dead pedal from a Mustang.

My intention was to keep looking for more stuff I could use, like a used power window motor and door lock actuators. It started raining like crazy and I got soaked!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 24, 2009, 12:49:18 AM
A few days ago I painted all the steel wheels with a new coat of black paint.

I found a used passenger side window motor today and it works perfectly. No luck finding good door lock actuators. Every one I find is .

I had to find a fuel gauge today and because I did research ealier I found out that the actual gauge unit behind the gauge faces are common in many late 70's early 80's Fords. So I snagged two in case one didn't work. The donor vehicles were a old Ford Ranger and a Ford F-150. I opened up the cluster, popped the fuel gauge out and removed the gauge face. I tested the fuel gauges for continuity and they both passed. So I removed the Tbird instrument cluster today and replaced the fuel gauge unit. It fits perfectly and works like a charm. With the second one I have a back-up in case the one I installed ever fails.

I painted the faded out red needles on the instrument cluster a nice turquoise blue. I seen the turquoise needles on late model Tbirds and decided I would paint mine that way. While I had the cluster open, I also added a blue LED light inside the front of the cluster housing to brighten up the cluster for night time driving. The light output is horrible on 1983-84 buttstuffog clusters. I have never seen an cluster so dim which is unlike any other car I have ever had. It's just a very poor design because there is only four bulbs on the back of the cluster and they are all situated at the top. Examining the perimeter of the gauge faces they did not leave enough opening around the edges for light to get out.

 I went on a scavenger hunt to find compatible chrome window switch buttons that will fit in place of the black ones in the original window switch. The original black buttons pop off and chrome ones snap right on. I had to look through various Town Cars, Grand Marquis and Crown Vics to find them. Most of the cars were already stripped of switches.

I also had to snag a taillamp socket.

I hope I am done looking in Pull-A-Part for a while. I am ready to get the Tbird mechanically sound and get the carpet and headliner ordered and put in. I am so looking forward to it getting new paint.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 01, 2009, 11:43:48 PM
I took some new pics today! I had to move the Tbird to cut grass. When I was done cutting grass, I drove the Tbird for the very first time in my neighborhood! I was excited!

The bent TRX wheel which would not let the LF tire hold air was replaced on the front with one of my standard steel wheels with a tire today. I took the extra D-grade wheel cover the eBay buyer sent me and put it on the rim to see how it looks on the car.

I got the map light rear view mirror wired and installed.

I also put extra blue LED's in the intrument cluster and soldered one in the HVAC backlighting bulb socket. Looks good!

Notice the freshly painted Thunderbird Blue needles on the gauges now. Also, the transplanted Ford Truck fuel gauge is working flawlessly behind the Tbird fuel gauge face.

I gave up on trying to find used Ford door lock actuators that work and I did not feel like paying for new ones. I found aftermarket door lock actuators that will work fine at a resonable price. Along with that I found an Audiovox remote keyless entry system at a real good price.

Enjoy the pics for now!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 01, 2009, 11:47:37 PM
More pics...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 01, 2009, 11:50:40 PM
Old Four eyes is as blind as a bat right now. I jus got her some headlamp buckets from a 1986 Cougar that were in good shape and not rusted. I just repainted them. None of the sealed beam units I had were in good shape. The glass fronts literally came off in my hand after I removed the rectangular retaining rings. I am holding out for some Silver Star sealed beams but they are expensive to do right this moment and I have other things I am spending money on at the moment. I thought about maybe getting some diamond clear headlamp replacements but I dunno.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 01, 2009, 11:52:21 PM
The map light mirror, conveniently spliced into the dome lamp wiring harness on the right side.

The freshly painted turquoise gauge needles along with the now working fuel gauge from a donor Ford truck.

Blue LED illumination for the gauge cluster really brightens up the gauges for night driving. Only drawback is that the dash light dimmer will not dim enough for these bulbs but I am used to the brightness that the blue LED's give off on the My Color dash of my 2008 Mustang.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on September 02, 2009, 09:52:08 PM
Looking good!

I agree, the SN95 dash was a cool retro look but would have turned it into a long term project to make it work. Probably would have needed to weld in a custom frame to make your attachments.

When all else fails go back to original and I also agree the 83-84 style is very clean looking. Hard to beat that look.

The wheelcovers you picked should look fine. I liked the 83-86 standard ones too and sometime I just feel the factory got things right.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

I my have a taillight lens if you need one.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 02, 2009, 11:08:46 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;289591
Looking good!

I agree, the SN95 dash was a cool retro look but would have turned it into a long term project to make it work. Probably would have needed to weld in a custom frame to make your attachments.

When all else fails go back to original and I also agree the 83-84 style is very clean looking. Hard to beat that look.

The wheelcovers you picked should look fine. I liked the 83-86 standard ones too and sometime I just feel the factory got things right.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

I my have a taillight lens if you need one.


The worst part about the SN95 dash was having to cut the edge against the windshield. I had no problem cutting it but for me it just was not whole and it was sloppy and difficult to fabricate attachment to the base of the windshield area. I would have been better off trying to keep the original dash frame for integrity but there was just too much to modify. Then I got the guilt that the original Tbird design was not being used. The vinyl knee pads of the original dash are in such good shape I could not bear the thought of not using them.

I am having second thoughts about the wheel covers I got. The 3factory steel wheels I got from a 1986 Cougar do not allow the 1980-82 wheel covers to sit flush as they should. With the lone Mustang steel wheel I got they fit fine. I may s the entire wheel cover idea and look for a set of Mustang/Cougar turbine wheels. Ideally I like the new wheels Vinnie got but they are gonna have to wait.  It's just a ned shame I cannot retain the TRX wheels. They look so good but one is bent and the tires if I could find them are too expensive.

I am interested in the LH taillamp. It's bothering me that the one I just bought has a crack. It's still intact with no light showing through so I have not been in a hurry to remedy it with a replacement right away.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 02, 2009, 11:21:14 PM
I just bought more stuff off eBay. I found LH & RH clear turn signal lenses. I also found Ford Escort rubber headed OEM key blacks which are inverted triangle shaped that fit our ignition lock cylinders. I already installed my new chrome ignition lock cylinder. I just like having that brightened up as opposed to the boring black, plus I always liked the chrome twist  which has been a Ford characteristic since they started using them in 1970.

I think I already mentioned I bought a remote keyless entry. It's has every function the same as the one on my new Mustang. Trunk release,  dome, dash and parking lamp illumination upon unlock, parking lamp flash and horn sound upon locking. I have gotten so spoiled that I hate unlocking a door and trunk with a key.

I am hoping to find a AM/FM electronic stereo only with NO cassette. My plan is to use it with an FM iPod converter with an iPod and not install any sort of CD player. I am so over CD's and CD players that I don't even care that I have one in my Mustang anymore. I seen one such AM/FM electronic stereo-only in a car at Pull-A-Part but when I went back to find it, either it was picked out of the car or the car was gone. I could not remember what vehicle I had seen it in.

I gotta find a set of six speakers. Maybe I will either buy new or scavange for some late model used ones still in good shape.
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on September 03, 2009, 12:41:19 AM
Looks like your tailights are diff styles also~
One looks like an '83 and one looks like an '84.

No big deal, just mentioning.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 03, 2009, 06:07:17 AM
Quote from: Romeo2k;289625
Looks like your tailights are diff styles also~
One looks like an '83 and one looks like an '84.

No big deal, just mentioning.


They are the same. The left taillamp just has the chrome flashing worn off the peremeter and the emblem.
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on September 03, 2009, 06:33:00 AM
Oh, ok.
Just sayin' Cuz my '84 had the same worn emblem (like your drivers side), And one day i came across an '83 in the yard that was in terrible shape, But, The birds on the tails were nice and silver/chrome still...
Come to find out they were Metal, And the ones on my '84 are plastic.

And is the paint on your gauges anything out of the ordinary? I need to paint mine but i'm looking for something light reactive.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 03, 2009, 11:54:21 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;289652
Oh, ok.
Just sayin' Cuz my '84 had the same worn emblem (like your drivers side), And one day i came across an '83 in the yard that was in terrible shape, But, The birds on the tails were nice and silver/chrome still...
Come to find out they were Metal, And the ones on my '84 are plastic.

And is the paint on your gauges anything out of the ordinary? I need to paint mine but i'm looking for something light reactive.


Both Wal-Mart and Lowes have day-glo red-orange paint that you could probably use for a light reactive color.

The paint I used on the needles of my gauges came from Wal-Mart. It's Krylon's Blue Ocean Breeze. My grille and rear 1/4 panel emblems are gonna get a splash of this color in the inserts just like the 1983 Heritage models used turquoise inserts. This will look especially good with my black car. I am probably going to do the insets of the wings on the taillamp emblems as well.  I have always loved the classic emblems with the turquoise inserts.

As far as the taillamp emblems go, yeah there were metal ones and plastic ones. I like metal ones which were all chrome. I did not even notice after all these years there was two different kinds until I started looking for a replacement taillamp.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 04, 2009, 12:05:48 AM
Great success this evening installing a remote keyless entry system! I have most of it done but I need to buy three relays. One to activate the trunk release and another for the starter interrupt and a third one to turn the interior lights on for 30 seconds during an unlock.

So far the installation is working perfect with what is wired up. I am waiting for new door lock actuators. The relays are working properly without them right now. The horn chirps during unlock and lock as well as the parking lamps and dash lamps flashing. The key to this installation is accessing the wiring under the driver side kick panel where you find two pink wires from the door lock buttons and one brown wire going to the taillamp harness which is for the taillamp/parkinglamp/dash illumination circuit.

I am so happy this install went smoothly and works perfectly. The kit is a remanufactured Audiovox kit which was $29.00 off eBay.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on September 04, 2009, 12:16:47 AM
Hey, that does sound cool. Let me know how finding new lock actuators goes... My D.S. actuator is toast.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 04, 2009, 12:31:51 AM
Quote from: jrad235;289820
Hey, that does sound cool. Let me know how finding new lock actuators goes... My D.S. actuator is toast.


I found them on eBay.... Universal aftermarket replacements. They are priced extremely low and easily adapt to the operate the lock rod inside the door.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on September 04, 2009, 04:03:43 PM
I sure hope they work well. Last time I took my door panel off I was thinking that I would need to reinforce/rebuild the backing as it seemed a little weak to be pulling it on and off repeatedly(2 or 3 times now)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 05, 2009, 01:27:44 AM
Quote from: jrad235;289902
I sure hope they work well. Last time I took my door panel off I was thinking that I would need to reinforce/rebuild the backing as it seemed a little weak to be pulling it on and off repeatedly(2 or 3 times now)


I got my actuators today! They work perfect! All I did was mount them to an existing hole in the door and attach the actuator rod to the rod for the door lock . This was an easy install. They come with everything you need to attach them. The only extras you will need is some butt connectors to attach the wiring to the existing wires, some electrical tape to seal the connection up and one zip tie to secure the wiring to the little hole in the door.

Be sure to completely remove your old actuators. They cause the lock rods to bind if they are siezed up.

I am very thrilled they work very well with the remote keyless entry I installed.

(http://i14.ebayimg.com/04/i/001/40/89/1782_12.JPG)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-2-Wire-Slave-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-360D_W0QQitemZ170378089617QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ab535491&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-2-Wire-Slave-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-360D_W0QQitemZ170378089617QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item27ab535491&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245")
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on September 05, 2009, 02:45:32 AM
Oh man, that is just too cool! I would love to just look back at the car and "Click" have the doors lock and the lights flash. That would be awesome! Congratulations on the install.

I think I would have to rewire my trunk release as it only works with the key on, did you have that problem?

Also, how did you tap all the wires? Wire taps?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 05, 2009, 10:45:35 AM
Quote from: jrad235;289964
Oh man, that is just too cool! I would love to just look back at the car and "Click" have the doors lock and the lights flash. That would be awesome! Congratulations on the install.

I think I would have to rewire my trunk release as it only works with the key on, did you have that problem?

Also, how did you tap all the wires? Wire taps?


You won't have to rewire anything. I had no problem wiring my trunk release to operate with the remote. With the trunk release switch in the glovebox, the switch is wired 12v+ from the ignition key only and the opposite wire is pink which carries the voltage to the trunk release actuator. So just connected to the pink wire on the back of the trunk release switch. Keep in mind you do have to install a couple of relays not included in the kit for dome light illumination and trunk release. A couple of the signals from the Audiovox unit I bought use negative pulses, so the trunk release has a relay to convert the negative pulse to switch 12v+ to the pink wire on the back of the trunk release button. You will better understand once you see the wiring diagram in the installation instructions.

I did a cut and splice with butt connectors and electrical tape to seal the connections. I would avoid using scotchlock connectors but it can be done using those too. A proper splice is to cut away some of the wire insulation without cutting the wire in half. Then you wrap the bare wire you want to connect to the bare wire you are splicing into and solder it and heat shrink it or use quality electrical tape.

I like doing quick connections so I have always been a butt connector w.

This is the Audiovox unit I bought off eBay. It is the only one I found that has all the features including a trunk release. Be aware that other units on eBay only unlock doors and do not have options for trunk release, dome light illumination, etc. The control module is much smaller than it appears. It's about 3 inches square.

(http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/40000024/Images/11/AA925-RFB.jpg)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200378338976&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200378338976&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT")
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 06, 2009, 01:06:39 AM
I just got one of the clear turnsignal/parking lamps I bought off eBay! I am waiting for the other to come in. I am excited because I really like the clear lamps better and I was afaid I would not find them any time soon, much less for a reasonable price.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 06, 2009, 01:27:53 AM
Here is a pic of the blue LED's lit up in the instrument cluster...
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on September 06, 2009, 02:19:51 AM
Ooh, blue! Heh, You weren't joking about it not dispersing the light well, but it's still pretty cool.

I just ordered the lock actuators and the alarm, so we'll see if I ever get them installed!

I would like to see a picture of those clear corners though.


You are just tearin' through this car! Don't you have a job to do or something!:D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 06, 2009, 10:19:09 AM
Quote from: jrad235;290084
Ooh, blue! Heh, You weren't joking about it not dispersing the light well, but it's still pretty cool.

I just ordered the lock actuators and the alarm, so we'll see if I ever get them installed!

I would like to see a picture of those clear corners though.


You are just tearin' through this car! Don't you have a job to do or something!:D


It's hard to tell by the pictures because blue light does not photograph well, but the cluster now has great illumination. I placed LED bulbs at the top front of the cluster for more direct light and it makes a big difference. I replaced one bulb in the back of the cluster so the odometer and shift indicator have good backlighting. The rest of the standard illumination bulbs I removed from the cluster because they are no longer needed. I also put a blue LED bulb in the HVAC rotary panel and that completes the look.


Take you time installing the keyless entry system and prepare to buy about three extra relays to make the starter inhibitor, trunk release and dome light illumination delay all work. Local auto parts stores have these four pin relays in the light and fuse section for about $5 a piece. I have not wired in the starter inhibitor feature yet. I ran out of time the other morning so I had to wrap things up.


The clear lamps I got are not the corner lamps. They are the turn signal lamps in the front of the bumper under the headlamps. They are the 1983-only clear units. In 1984 they changed to amber.

If you are thinking about the side marker lamps next to the headlamps, we are pretty much stuck with the way they are with the amber lens unless you wanna do a custom paint trick like they show in the mods section of Coolcats.com

I do have a set of cornering lamps I kept from my former 1989 Tbird that I could not use because I installed a 1996-97 front bumper cover on it. I am thinking of installing these when I get ready for paint refinishing. I won't be using the bodyside moldings, so the 89 Tbird has these nice finishing bezels that can be painted to match the body color.
Title: Delete
Post by: TurboCoupe50 on September 06, 2009, 12:45:11 PM
With a couple wiring diagrams you can install a factory keyless module fairly easily... I have one from a '98 Taurus in my TC, but they are all the same from about '00 to '04(maybe later)... It does everything but operate the lights(too lazy to connect)... The Taurus and a few other models went to the new module in '98, you do not want the earlier ones as remotes are hard to find at a reasonable price...
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on September 06, 2009, 01:41:07 PM
Watchdevil - Yeah, I thought you were talking about the corner lamps:hick:

I do have the clear signals on mine, just one of them is cracked.

Well, next time I have the cluster out maybe I'll change the lights too!
Did you just solder LEDs into the old circuit?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 07, 2009, 06:22:31 AM
Quote from: jrad235;290137
Watchdevil - Yeah, I thought you were talking about the corner lamps:hick:

I do have the clear signals on mine, just one of them is cracked.

Well, next time I have the cluster out maybe I'll change the lights too!
Did you just solder LEDs into the old circuit?


I bought a 4 pack of Blue LED's with wires attached to them. For the front of the cluster, I secured them to the top inside front with a little soft velcro tape and ran the wires out of the back side of the cluster. I soldered the wires to an unused bulb socket contact on the ribbon circuit. Then I took the remaining LED's and soldered them into the regular bulb sockets. One went into the back of the cluster behind the odometer and the other two went behind the rotary HVAC control panel.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 07, 2009, 06:30:33 AM
I went to Pull-A-Part yesterday and pulled a passenger side power seat track and associated wiring from a 1986 Lincoln Continental. It went in with only one small modification. I had to drill extra holes where they mount to the back of the floor. I also had to remount the passenger side seat buckle to a different location. Stick with the Tbird/Cougar tracks if you can find them.

From that Lincoln Continental I did make a great score on some perfect gray vinyl seat belt sleeves that go where the belts mount to the floor at the inside of the rocker panels. They are better than the ones they used on the Birds and Cats originally. I also got two perfect buckle trim pieces. I'll post pics later.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 07, 2009, 07:24:18 PM
No need to take a door panel off. Driver's side kick panel contains two pink door lock and unlock wires in the thicker harness. They are the two thinner of the four pink wires in the harness. The wires match the ones at the factory lock/unlock switch. The thinner harness runs to the back of the car to the taillamps. The brown wire in the thin harness is for parking lamps, taillamps and dash illumination.

The alarm module is installed but not mounted. All wire is covered with black condiut. To the right is the two relays needed for dome light 30 second illumination and trunk release.

Got a set of four used speakers out of some late model Fords. Two 6 1/4" for front and two 5x7 for rear. Later, I gotta find some good 3" speakers for the dash.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 07, 2009, 07:30:22 PM
Aftermarket door lock actuators to replace bad factor ones. Sorry for fuzzy pic this time.

Here are the seat belt covers and belt trim that I scored off a Lincoln Continental.

Getting ready to solder power seat wiring harness into the driver's seat harness.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 07, 2009, 07:37:43 PM
Wiring harness addition completed, seat track installed, seat reinstalled over power track. It was easier to install this way. If you look closely at the rear floor bolts on the track, I had to make a new hole in the track for it to mount.
Title: Delete
Post by: thunderjet302 on September 09, 2009, 05:26:26 PM
Quote from: TurboCoupe50;290131
With a couple wiring diagrams you can install a factory keyless module fairly easily... I have one from a '98 Taurus in my TC, but they are all the same from about '00 to '04(maybe later)... It does everything but operate the lights(too lazy to connect)... The Taurus and a few other models went to the new module in '98, you do not want the earlier ones as remotes are hard to find at a reasonable price...


Would that work with the factory keyless entry pad?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 19, 2009, 11:01:47 AM
Here are the new cut keys! I got the Turbo Coupe set just to get the unique trunk key. It turns out the Escort/Tempo ignition keys work fine after having concerns that they may not go in far enough into the ignition lock cylinder. Of course here is my new keyless entry remote.

I installed the new clear turn signal lamps...

All she needs now is a new set of headlamps...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 19, 2009, 11:10:19 AM
I have the repaired door panels back on.

Here is a shot of the dash from the passenger side.

I am so ready to do the carpet and headliner.

I am thinking of going with a dark gray or charcoal carpet and getting extra yardage to do the lower doors, armrests and rear package shelf. This car is not ever going to be a "correct" restoration because I like things personalized much more.

I have to think about replacing those window wipes real soon!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 27, 2009, 08:25:43 PM
Installed my clear headlamps today. This was not a drop-in installation like the eBay auction was advertised. I had to enlarge the openings in the back of the headlamp buckets for these to fit. I realized just a while ago that I was not sent LH and RH headlamps as the picture in the auction shows because the city lights are supposed to be positioned opposite of each other for each side.

The wiring was the easy part for me. The original low beam headlamp connector fits the H4 bulb but I had to release the terminals and reinstall them into the correct slots in the connector. For the high beam bulbs, I had to cut a tab away on the connector to clear the unused low beam terminal on the H4 bulb. Easy job though. All that was necessary was to turn the plug upside down and push it into the back of the bulb to make it function properly.

You can see I opted for amber city light bulbs. I'll see if I stay with this for the duration or not.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 27, 2009, 08:28:34 PM
A very seemingly dangerous thing happened today. The catalytic converter overheated while I was driving the car for a short run today. The floorboard was hot as an iron and there was smoke coming from the converter underneath after I parked it. Looks like I have serious issues to attend to!
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on September 27, 2009, 08:36:28 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;292821
A very seemingly dangerous thing happened today. The catalytic converter overheated while I was driving the car for a short run today. The floorboard was hot as an iron and there was smoke coming from the converter underneath after I parked it. Looks like I have serious issues to attend to!


Sounds like it was running very rich. I have seen more than one car set its carpet on fire because of this.

Glad yours is still with us!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 27, 2009, 11:48:59 PM
Quote from: ProTouring442;292827
Sounds like it was running very rich. I have seen more than one car set its carpet on fire because of this.

Glad yours is still with us!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


Yeah it's a good thing that there is no carpet installed. That's the first time since I have been runninng the car this has happened. Something is going on causing it to run way too rich.

I have to face facts. The engine will have to be overhauled or replaced. I have so much work to do on this car that if it was not for the fact that it was given to me I would not even worry about restoring it. But hey it will be worth the time and investment in restoration to enjoy the end result. I really did not set out to find a car to restore, much less a second car in the first place but I could not resist keeping a Thunderbird from going to a junkyard since my parents no longer wanted it.
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on September 28, 2009, 05:45:00 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;292850
Yeah it's a good thing that there is no carpet installed. That's the first time since I have been runninng the car this has happened. Something is going on causing it to run way too rich.

I have to face facts. The engine will have to be overhauled or replaced. I have so much work to do on this car that if it was not for the fact that it was given to me I would not even worry about restoring it. But hey it will be worth the time and investment in restoration to enjoy the end result. I really did not set out to find a car to restore, much less a second car in the first place but I could not resist keeping a Thunderbird from going to a junkyard since my parents no longer wanted it.


Are you getting a Check Engine light? If not, I would suspect the O2 sensor. If you are getting one, the most likely culprit is the Air Temperature Sensor. In either case, you should verify the problem with a good scanner. The converter is most likely shot at this point as the substrate will have melted. Find out ASAP and get it fixed as there is still a lot of stuff that a glowing converter can set ablaze!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 28, 2009, 06:23:27 AM
Quote from: ProTouring442;292868
Are you getting a Check Engine light? If not, I would suspect the O2 sensor. If you are getting one, the most likely culprit is the Air Temperature Sensor. In either case, you should verify the problem with a good scanner. The converter is most likely shot at this point as the substrate will have melted. Find out ASAP and get it fixed as there is still a lot of stuff that a glowing converter can set ablaze!

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


No check engine light. I am assuming that Engine light on the sparse instrument cluster would be what lights up if that goes wrong.

One of the things on my big to do list is to have the exhaust system replaced. I do know the ler is shot with a big hole in the back of it. There is so much that has to be done to this car.
Title: Delete
Post by: Old_Paint on September 28, 2009, 08:18:56 AM
CEL was not wired to the cluster until after 1986. I know, I have two 86's. In fact, I don't think it happened until 88 or later, because I actually have an 87 cluster in one of my 86's.  You'll have to pull codes to find out if there's one that would cause a CEL. The output is there, in the EEC and wired to the DCL, just not wired into the cluster. Normally, the CEL is the same wire that goes to the DCL from STO (Self Test Output) which is Pin 4 on the DCL. If you want, you can connect a test light between pin 4 of the DCL and the + post on the battery while it's idling, and that will show if it has latched codes. It will need to be up to operating temperature, though, otherwise, any diagnostic codes will be moot.
 
An overheating cat doesn't typically mean a rebuild is needed.  If, however, it's smoking blue/white, or excess water vapor is coming out of the tail pipe, then you may be correct.  However, it may need little more than some "freshening" with some new front end and top gaskets, including head gaskets.  That 5.0 is a TOUGH engine.  They'll take a lot more abuse than the 3.8's will.  And somehow, I can't imagine your parents abusing the car, and then giving it to you.
Title: Delete
Post by: Haystack on September 28, 2009, 10:51:35 AM
I have been driving my car while it was overheating for two days and over 200 miles and didn't notice any smoke or lack of power. My stupid gage cluster burned out on my full digital dash, and I have had problems with the oil pressure sensor. Went to do a pizza delivery and the car died, checked the coolant, and it was bone dry. I was wondering why my heater quit working, I thought my heater core went out again. Funny thing is, it didn't smoke or anything. No white smoke or any sign of overheating till the car died. That and the heater not working.

 If the cat is glowing or burning too hot, it might be clogged. If it is, its already bad. I would hollow it out as a temp fix until you can get it fixed. I had a brand new cat on my 86 car. Map sensor line came off and it would leave black marks at every stop sign I stopped at. Cat was somehow fine after.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 30, 2009, 12:18:56 AM
Quote from: Old_Paint;292878
CEL was not wired to the cluster until after 1986. I know, I have two 86's. In fact, I don't think it happened until 88 or later, because I actually have an 87 cluster in one of my 86's.  You'll have to pull codes to find out if there's one that would cause a CEL. The output is there, in the EEC and wired to the DCL, just not wired into the cluster. Normally, the CEL is the same wire that goes to the DCL from STO (Self Test Output) which is Pin 4 on the DCL. If you want, you can connect a test light between pin 4 of the DCL and the + post on the battery while it's idling, and that will show if it has latched codes. It will need to be up to operating temperature, though, otherwise, any diagnostic codes will be moot.
 
An overheating cat doesn't typically mean a rebuild is needed.  If, however, it's smoking blue/white, or excess water vapor is coming out of the tail pipe, then you may be correct.  However, it may need little more than some "freshening" with some new front end and top gaskets, including head gaskets.  That 5.0 is a TOUGH engine.  They'll take a lot more abuse than the 3.8's will.  And somehow, I can't imagine your parents abusing the car, and then giving it to you.


Thanks for your input. I tried starting the car today for the first time since the cat overheated. It starts and ran rough for a few seconds then stalled. I started it again and it just will not run. It seems like it clogged, so the converter may be so damaged the exhaust cannot get out.  The fumes I do get are very rich. Looks like this car is going to be sitting for a while.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on September 30, 2009, 01:09:03 AM
Man you've put alot of work into that Bird! I like how you're making it your own with your own touches. How strict are they on emissons are they there? Here they are only required to look to see if the converter is there. If that's the case just hollow it out and put it back on. Great job with it, keep it up!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 30, 2009, 10:22:38 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;293158
Man you've put alot of work into that Bird! I like how you're making it your own with your own touches. How strict are they on emissons are they there? Here they are only required to look to see if the converter is there. If that's the case just hollow it out and put it back on. Great job with it, keep it up!!


Strict in North Carolina! This car needs so much work to pass inspection. I have a cracked windshield, poor brakes and bad converter and ler. I also need new tires. If this was not my step-mother's car that she bought brand new I would have looked for something better with lower mileage. Not long ago I passed up on a 1983 Tbird for sale about a mile down the street that some old man had since it was brand new. Silver with w red interior. I started it up and it sounded lile brand new. However at some point after that he had a little accident and bashed the front end a little damaging the left front fender and header panel knocking the headlamps out. I so wanted to buy it but I am too cash poor. The old man was asking too much for it anyway.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on September 30, 2009, 11:14:22 AM
I know what you mean about things being tight, I've been laid off since april. You just do what you gotta do to keep going. Even when I was working things weren't easy but I got by. I've had my Bird since 1990 and it was in great shape when I bought it, I think it only had 24k miles then, of course I paid 10k for back then. I was always on a tight budget so I only did a little at a time through the years and pretty much got it where I want it but it'll probably never be done. There's always something new to do to it.
One nice thing with you starting where you did you'll know everything that has been done to it and what still needs to be done. Just take your time with it and try not to get discouraged with it and you'll eventually get it where you want it. And then you'll enjoy it that much more knowing you did it!
Title: Delete
Post by: maandy on October 04, 2009, 11:16:38 AM
Nice project ! Good luck with it !
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on October 04, 2009, 10:42:47 PM
Today I started relocating the ignition module. A while back I got a heatsink and wiring harness out of a 88 Cougar V6. The module and heatsink is going in the same location it was on the Cougar I got it out of, that is on the passenger side radiator support just ahead of the radiator. I got most of the wiring done except for the three wires going to the pick-up coil. It started getting dark and I had to wrap up work for the night. I will finish on my next off. However what is aggravating me is that the ignition module on the distributor has one screw that is blocked by the water outlet housing so it looks like I am doing to have to remove that first to finish the work.
Title: Delete
Post by: Haystack on October 05, 2009, 02:13:20 AM
just mark on the bottom of the dist where it is sitting with a sharpie, loosen it, and turn it till you can hit it.
Title: Delete
Post by: mcford on October 05, 2009, 06:24:43 PM
emissions check?  what's that?? :D  about the only good thing left about living in michigan.  ZERO emissions checks!
Title: Delete
Post by: Dave D on October 05, 2009, 06:59:47 PM
I purchased New belt moulding for my 86 turbo coupe from Steele -
https://secure.steelerubber.com/search_frameset.php  my old belt moulding were very dry rotted, the new moulding fits well and looks great but is not laying perfectly straight, I am hoping with time it will straighten.  Dave
Title: Delete
Post by: DVP on October 08, 2009, 05:23:04 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;291774
I have the repaired door panels back on.

Here is a shot of the dash from the passenger side.

I am so ready to do the carpet and headliner.

I am thinking of going with a dark gray or charcoal carpet and getting extra yardage to do the lower doors, armrests and rear package shelf. This car is not ever going to be a "correct" restoration because I like things personalized much more.

I have to think about replacing those window wipes real soon!

Another idea if you havent thought about it yet is Topez/Tempo window channel. Since you have vent windows it wont be a problem.

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=8969
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on October 08, 2009, 11:22:07 PM
Quote from: DVP;294116
Another idea if you havent thought about it yet is Topez/Tempo window channel. Since you have vent windows it wont be a problem.

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=8969


I have thought about them. I remember reading somewhere about them, but can you still get them new? Because all the used Tempo ones I have seen are trashed just like the Tbird ones.
Title: Delete
Post by: DVP on October 09, 2009, 02:41:09 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;294154
I have thought about them. I remember reading somewhere about them, but can you still get them new? Because all the used Tempo ones I have seen are trashed just like the Tbird ones.


Not sure. Might want to check some Tempo forums (yeah theyre out there) Have to be from 2 door though.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on October 13, 2009, 11:43:11 PM
I finally completed the ignition module relocation to in front of the radiator support. I bought a new TFI module to use with it and gutted the old one to solder the distributor pick-up wires into it and reinstalled it to use it as a connector and to keep the distributor sealed around the pick-up terminals. It was interesting making the new three wire harness to go from the distributor to the relocated module which involved a roll of black stranded wire, standard female blade terminals, heat shrink tubing, flexible black wire conduit and of all things regular aluminum foil that I wrapped generously around the wires to protect them from interference.

Looks like most of my restoration project is at a stand still for now as money is tight. I wish I was getting this car on the road much sooner. There is still the issue of the catalytic converter overheating and some tapping noises in the engine. That engine I know must need an good overhaul by now. I wish I was feeling optimistic right now.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 20, 2009, 08:41:33 PM
I am getting an idea for the Tbird's dash pad. Last time I went to Pull-A-Part, I was pulling stuff from a 1986 Lincoln Continental and I liked the deeply hooded dash pad, so I am thinking of going back and getting that one and seeing if I can adapt it or making a new one of my own. The original dashpad on my Tbird is a disaster. The deep hooded dash pad of the Continental reminds me of how the 1964-66 Tbirds used a deeply hooded dash top.

I saw something else I liked. The tuxedo black pearl on the 2010 Ford Taurus! I am getting an overload of ideas for this car when it comes to finishing time!

Right now I am on an absolute standstill working on the Tbird until I can afford to do more.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 20, 2009, 09:15:03 PM
The new headlamps...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 20, 2009, 09:16:47 PM
more...
Title: Delete
Post by: 302 PWR on November 20, 2009, 09:21:16 PM
Good to see some progress. Those headlights look killer! I want a pair!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 20, 2009, 09:32:39 PM
Quote from: 302 PWR;299567
Good to see some progress. Those headlights look killer! I want a pair!


They are awesome and fit much better and look better than the first set I bought... You can also use different colored bulbs for the halo rings or use the colored gel caps that come in the kit.

Eventually I would like to swap out all the bulbs for LED's!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1BadBird on November 20, 2009, 11:11:29 PM
What headlights are those?? Where'd you get them??
I likey  :evilgrin: I likey  :evilgrin:
Title: Delete
Post by: xjeffs on November 20, 2009, 11:23:29 PM
I wish I could clears.  Looks great.
Title: Delete
Post by: DVP on November 20, 2009, 11:29:10 PM
LEDs would be nice. I have always liked those headlights.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on November 20, 2009, 11:42:20 PM
Those lights are cool. I've never seen lights like those. Do outer edges actually glow like that when the markers are on or is it the camera?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 21, 2009, 08:25:18 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;299582
Those lights are cool. I've never seen lights like those. Do outer edges actually glow like that when the markers are on or is it the camera?

The halo effect I wired into the parking and side marker lamp circuit! Here is the link for you all from eBay!

These are quality units and they do come with the headlamp bulbs. Don't forget to order two pairs!

You will not need to change the factory bulb connector plug. They will slide right on. You will have to modify the connector end for the high beams to clear the unused low-beam terminal on the lamps positioned in the high beam bucket. It all depends on how you want the lamps to function, but I disabled illumination of the low beam filament in the high beam position. Also, if you want only the inner lamps to be exclusively high beam, then disable the high beam terminal on the outer lamps. Mine are set up so that all four light up for high beams just like standard.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/81-86-FORD-THUNDERBIRD-HALO-DIAMOND-CUT-HEADLIGHT-84-85_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d1Q26psQ3d6QQ_trksidZp4506Q2em7QQcategoryZ33710QQihZ022QQitemZ350150551060#ht_3435wt_1165 (http://"http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/81-86-FORD-THUNDERBIRD-HALO-DIAMOND-CUT-HEADLIGHT-84-85_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dLVIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ26otnQ3d1Q26psQ3d6QQ_trksidZp4506Q2em7QQcategoryZ33710QQihZ022QQitemZ350150551060#ht_3435wt_1165")


(http://www.optionracing.com/images/eBayPhotoNE/HeadTailLights/WI-HL12.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: 83tcbird on November 21, 2009, 09:15:06 AM
Nice find looks to be in good shape overall !!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 21, 2009, 03:05:20 PM
Quote from: 83tcbird;299603
Nice find looks to be in good shape overall !!


It is in great shape for restoration. I just have to get it mechanically sound before I go to the expense of trim and paintwork.
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on November 21, 2009, 07:46:45 PM
Awesome!
I've been eyeing those lights on ebay forever, Was unsure about the quality and halo factor~But i'll definitely be getting these at some point. :D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 21, 2009, 08:12:31 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;299683
Awesome!
I've been eyeing those lights on ebay forever, Was unsure about the quality and halo factor~But i'll definitely be getting these at some point. :D


They are definitely quality units! Pilot is a reputable brand that is known for selling off-road, driving and fog lamps found at many local auto parts stores! Get u some! They look great and sure update the look of our four eyed friends!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on November 21, 2009, 09:00:14 PM
If I had a four eyed cat or bird I'd be gettin a set. I really like the look!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 22, 2009, 10:45:16 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;299694
If I had a four eyed cat or bird I'd be gettin a set. I really like the look!!

Hey switch out the header panel and bumper and you can have your four eyes! LOL!

I captured the really cool picture at night with the parking lamps on and the halo's showing. It ended up being a great avatar!

Ya know it's funny back in the day when the cars were new there was this rush for automakers to adapt to aero headlamps and now that every modern car has them the old square four eyes now have a distinctive appeal. I like how the four eyes headlamp openings are swept back and the lamps are staggered and stepped for proper aim. The simple and functional park/turn lamps in their exact positions in the bumper finish it off. I always like how this theme was carried from the Mustang, to the Tbird and then to the mid-size LTD.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on November 22, 2009, 11:19:02 AM
You know I actually have an 86 nose here for sale that I could use but I think I'll pass. LOL!! I really like the shape of the 87-88 nose. To me it actually has a "bird look", with how it comes to a point. But of course I like most all T-Birds.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 22, 2009, 12:13:20 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;299756
You know I actually have an 86 nose here for sale that I could use but I think I'll pass. LOL!! I really like the shape of the 87-88 nose. To me it actually has a "bird look", with how it comes to a point. But of course I like most all T-Birds.


I agree I like both looks. The 87-88 nose really ties into the look of the early classic Tbirds. So there is no win or lose.. It's just a matter of enjoying what you do have!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 22, 2009, 07:21:05 PM
My idea of adapting a 1986 Lincoln Continental dash pad to my Tbird was crushed today. The donor car at Pull-A-Part which I got my RH power seat track from has been removed. And what sucks is the pad was an exact match for my light gray. I should have snagged it a while back. I went to another salvage yard today to find a 82-86 Continental in any color but no luck.

I think I am going to try to make my own. The design is so squared off and straight that I should have no trouble creating a deeply hooded dash top to give the pen 15pit an interesting look similar to mid 1960's Tbirds. My orginal dash pad is toast anyway.

My ideas for this car flow like a river... I so wanna get this car safely on the road so I can enjoy it, even if it is not totally complete while I am driving it.

Oh yeah and as luck would have it, Pull-A-Part got a 1980 Thunderbird Town Landau recently and it has that steering wheel emblem that I so desired but already found on eBay. I could have gotten this one for peanuts. The dash parts in that 1980 are in good shape too. I was marveling over the obscenely boxy look and wish I had one as a contrasting companion to my 1984.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 24, 2009, 12:54:52 AM
Since there is no saving the original dash pad, I removed the original dash pad today and completely sheared off the tosted foam and brittle vinyl with my bare hands which yeilded a sturdy metal base. This is going to be quite easy to adapt a 3" extension on the front edge for a deeply hooded effect. I will cut the extenstions from wood then use foam to pad the entire dash top base. After that it will be covered in vinyl.

I still wish I could find a good used 1982-86 Lincoln Continental dash pad... The Continental dash is just a slight revision of the 83-84 Tbird/Cougar dashes and the Continental's top pad would fit perfectly in place.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on November 24, 2009, 06:58:49 AM
There are literally a dozen of those Lincolns at the big salvage yard I go to.Crown Vics and about 20 or so Fox Birds and Cougars.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 24, 2009, 08:41:11 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;300043
There are literally a dozen of those Lincolns at the big salvage yard I go to.Crown Vics and about 20 or so Fox Birds and Cougars.


Would it be possible for you to get me a good dash pad from one of those Lincoln Continentals (82-86)? Any color will be fine if it is in good shape, but light gray is a plus. Just let me know how much it will be plus shipping to 28056.

Thanks!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on November 24, 2009, 10:34:17 AM
I just realized your new avatar and your name on here go well together. LOL!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Trinom on November 24, 2009, 01:34:20 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;299602
The halo effect I wired into the parking and side marker lamp circuit! Here is the link for you all from eBay!

These are quality units and they do come with the headlamp bulbs. Don't forget to order two pairs!
Can you tell me what type of light pattern do the lamps on low beams have? Do they look like sealed beam lamps, or european version?
(http://www.joeshmo.net//comparison.PNG)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 25, 2009, 09:44:24 PM
Quote from: Trinom;300078
Can you tell me what type of light pattern do the lamps on low beams have? Do they look like sealed beam lamps, or european version?
(http://www.joeshmo.net//comparison.PNG)


You know what? I have not even checked the aim of the lamps yet nor have I parked it near a wall to examine the pattern. When I get a chance I will check it out as it really isn't a road ready car yet...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on November 25, 2009, 09:50:13 PM
(http://"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cUbIo_giMc")
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;300061
I just realized your new avatar and your name on here go well together. LOL!!

Yeah now that you mentioned it my nickname and avatar go together pretty well! That picture turned out good by chance I think, so it works as an interesting avatar!

Watchdevil: My nickname is not so much what one might think. A very long time ago I picked Watchdevil to use as my nickname on Prodigy which was the first ever online service I ever used back in the day. I decided to take the name of an unreleased demo recording Stevie Nicks had written about Mick Fleetwood.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cUbIo_giMc (http://"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cUbIo_giMc")
Title: Delete
Post by: Carpimp1987 on November 26, 2009, 02:03:15 AM
headlights look nice good work on the t-bird keep it up.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 08, 2009, 12:28:06 AM
Still thinking about the Continental dash pad and how it ties in with the look of the 1964-66 Tbird dash...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on December 08, 2009, 08:22:29 AM
That would look pretty cool. I wonder how much cutting you would have to do to make it fit? Plus on the lincolon it looks like the doorpanels are built up to meet the overhang. Would you have to do the same to yours?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 08, 2009, 09:42:12 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;301678
That would look pretty cool. I wonder how much cutting you would have to do to make it fit? Plus on the lincolon it looks like the doorpanels are built up to meet the overhang. Would you have to do the same to yours?


There will be no cutting. The basic Continental dash is a modified version of the 1983-84 Tbird/Cougar dash with different trim. The pad is virtually dimensionally identical. The shape where the dash pad fits against the windshield is the same, that is the metal filler that extends from the pad to the bottom of the windshield. This accounts for the interchangability of various dashboards between so many Fox bodied Fords 1993 and earlier. As far as the built up door panels go, I would not do anything to the Tbird door panels. It would just look like it does when the doors are open, just floating on the ends a little bit.

I had actually found a Continental pad in matching gray from the car in Pull-A-Part that I got my passenger seat track from. I went back to get the pad and the car was gone. I cannot find another Continental anywhere. If all else fails I will build my own. I have already stripped the crouton foam and cracked vinyl from the metal base of the dash pad and use the metal base to build up a pad that is deeply hooded on top.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on December 08, 2009, 10:02:33 AM
I didn't know they where basically the same in size. I guess when I think of a lincoln I think big. It's defenately a cool project, keep us updated as you progress.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 08, 2009, 10:19:23 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;301688
I didn't know they where basically the same in size. I guess when I think of a lincoln I think big. It's defenately a cool project, keep us updated as you progress.


The 1982-86 Continental and 1984-92 Mark VII were based on longer wheelbase RWD Fox body platforms. During the years those Fox Lincolns were made, the Lincoln Town Car was the biggest Lincoln produced on the Panther platform that also supplies the Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis.
Title: Delete
Post by: daboss351 on December 08, 2009, 12:34:50 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;301691
The 1982-86 Continental and 1984-92 Mark VII were based on longer wheelbase RWD Fox body platforms. During the years those Fox Lincolns were made, the Lincoln Town Car was the biggest Lincoln produced on the Panther platform that also supplies the Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis.


Very correct. Mark VII is one of the coolest fox platforms IMHO, and parts trade between them, tbirds, and stangs.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on December 08, 2009, 05:08:24 PM
Actually,it is a proven fact (studies done at Harvard University,among others),that the 1988 Thunderbird was THE most beautiful Fox body car ever produced.I hate to shatter the hopes of everyone who doesn't own an '88 Bird,but,it's just the facts as I made them up.....I mean read them.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on December 08, 2009, 06:38:02 PM
Hahaha! You're to much!!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 09, 2009, 12:03:49 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;301756
Hahaha! You're to much!!!


LOL @ Vinnie!

It's amazing the proliferation of cars that Ford made on the Fox platform:

1978-83 Ford Fairmont - Mercury Zephyr
1979-93 Ford Mustang
1979-86 Mercury Capri
1980-88 Ford Thunderbird - Mercury Cougar XR7
1981-82 Ford Granada - Mercury Cougar sedans & wagons
1982-86 Lincoln Continental
1983-86 Ford LTD - Mercury Marquis
1984-92 Lincoln Mark VII


And it was heavily modified and renewed into the SN-95 platform for the 1994-2003 Mustang.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 30, 2009, 12:04:58 AM
Okay I have lost my mind and bought a complete 1986 Cougar header panel for the Tbird. This one happens to have the early metal eggcrate grille, not plastic. I removed the cathead emblem and it is mounted in the hole that was previously used for the standup hood ornament, so that will give me an opportunity to use a standup Tbird hood ornament. I dunno why I just want to be a little different mixing and matching parts. I did the same thing to my 1989 Tbird when I installed a 1997 Cougar nose.

I did score some chrome mirrors, intact interior trim plates for the mirror mounting holes and a working buttstuffog clock. 

I still want a Continental dash pad and can't find one.

I seriously considered replacing the entire dash I have now with a 1985-88 one but I could not find one without cracks and damage from scavangers. I did find one without cracks but it had a nasty warpage above the instrument cluster.

I also got a 1980 Tbird electronic instrument cluster which I am not going to use. Dumb me later noticed that it does not house the turn signal indicators and a couple more idiot lights which are in the upper tier of the dashpad on 1980-82 models. I'll probably sell it here or on eBay if someone needs it.

Everything is going slow right now with the cold weather and short daylight hours...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on December 30, 2009, 09:27:13 AM
It's too bad you're not closer. I have a perfect 85-88 dash here. I'd be afraid to ship it, it would be expencive plus there's always a chance of damage in transit.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 30, 2009, 10:53:17 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;304387
It's too bad you're not closer. I have a perfect 85-88 dash here. I'd be afraid to ship it, it would be expencive plus there's always a chance of damage in transit.


Story of my life! All the good stuff is too far away!
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on December 30, 2009, 04:51:14 PM
Bummer.... if 1Bad might be willing to bring that dash the 3 hours it takes to get it to Frederick, MD, then I can bring it to Raleigh, NC when I go to visit my parents. Then you could drive the 3 hours from Gastonia to Raleigh.

Of course, if we had thought of this earlier, I could have done this tomorrow as we are heading there for the New Year's weekend.

Merry Christmas!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on December 30, 2009, 10:45:29 PM
I appreciate the gratuitous thoughts guys! Ya'll are great!
Title: Cougar Nose!
Post by: Watchdevil on January 01, 2010, 11:17:32 PM
Here is the Cougar nose with a real metal grille! 1981 Tbird hood ornament coming soon!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 01, 2010, 11:26:10 PM
More Cougar nose...
Title: Making The New Dash Pad
Post by: Watchdevil on January 01, 2010, 11:31:14 PM
Contructed of birch wood for the base...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 01, 2010, 11:34:07 PM
And the final result! I was thrilled to find charcoal vinyl that matched the original dash pad prefectly! Also is my new working buttstuffog clock that I painted the hands blue-green to match the gauge needles I modified earlier. The new pad is deeper and extended more over the original to appear similar to mid-60's Tbirds which have my favorite dash design.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 01, 2010, 11:57:40 PM
And a pic from the outside through the windshield...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 02, 2010, 09:54:38 AM
Great job with the dash! I'm glad it turned out so good for you. I know you've put alot of thought into it.
Title: Delete
Post by: Loaded87IROC on January 02, 2010, 10:27:37 AM
Man I was pretty skeptical when I saw the wood, but that looks great!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 02, 2010, 08:43:51 PM
Thanks for the compliments guys! Ya know I really enjoy this forum because it makes a project like restoring this car fun and meaningful. I also enjoy the commoradery.

I am no skilled upholsterer but I think I did pretty good considering I do not have a sewing machine to do custom patterns and seams that could make it look even better.

Yeah the wood frame is scary and homemade looking but when you put the 1/2 foam on it and the charcoal vinyl is softens the hard edges and looks fairly decent. Ya know I was inspired to attempt this project because of an expensive Ethan Allen recliner. One of my cats decided to chew the footrest. I studied the footrest which is nothing but plywood with foam and fabric stapled on top. I was able to buy yardage of the original fabric from Ethan Allen and I fixed it myself. It was a repair project so simple to do by myself that I did not need to take it to an upholsterer. Doing things like this makes me wish I got into something like upholstry a long time ago which would have been a great skill to learn that could have provided a nice income.

Anyway, the newly constructed dash pad is padded just enough that it had the same thickness as the original dash pad that was in it. My original plan was to recover the original dash pad. However the foam was like toasted bread and the vinyl padding was cracking just looking at it.

 I know If I had got a hold of that gray dash pad in that Pull-A-Part Continental before they removed the car from that salavge yard that would have been ideal.

 As well as I had done with this homemade pad, I still think about how some details I could have done better.  I would really like to have had a nice french seam along the front and side edges. I am sure I will be busy tweaking details if I stay with this homemade pad. I know for sure though if I had settled for black vinyl it would not seem as nice. Finding the charcoal vinyl was a nice surprise. I was all set to accept regular black vinyl. Matter of fact where I went to get the material they did not even have any standard black vinyl in stock. It was all these designer patterns including an ostrich skin look that was just hideous.

Despite the decent job I did on making a dash pad,  I am having serious issues with the entire plastic dash shell which is so brittle it cracks like peanut brittle. I have never seen a dash disinigrate so badly. Just tighting screws to hold dash trim and the clock in place was a disaster. It's cracking everywhere. It seems impossible to find 1983-84 Tbirds I could use for donor dash shells. I have found good dash shells in one piece in a 1980 Tbird and a 1986 midsize LTD. Thats always an option if I had to. I also considered doing a 85-88 style dash but I am having a hard time finding one that is not cracked, warped or broken from salvage yard scavangers. Who knows where the direction of the dash issue will go as time passes. When you have an ongoing project like this there is no telling what I may change my mind to doing. I know it seems crazy that I keep entertaining so many options, including the attempt I made earlier trying to fit a 95 Mustang dash into the Bird. I still have that Mustang dash shell stored away.


I did discover one drawback during the test fit of the wooden dash pad base. I cannot swing open the door vent windows without opening the doors. I thought about it and proceeded to complete the project anyway since I really like the deeper hooded top. The hooded dash top was never an issue on the 1982-86 Continentals because they never had swing open door vent windows.

I like the dark charcoal vinyl so much that I think I want to buy matching carpet to give the interior a nice contrast to the lighter gray lower dash pads, seats, console and door panels. This would also include replacing the carpet on the lower doors for a unified look.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 02, 2010, 08:51:47 PM
I forgot to ask... What do you all think of the Cougar nose?  Be honest with your opinions. I am keeping on for a while to see if I will still like it later before I get to the stage of having the exterior refinished. One big plus is the real metal grille and the ability to use a 1977-82 Tbird hood ornament on it.

There are a few options for noses that I keep entertaining. I mean it would be so easy to snag a 1987-88 Tbird nose and use it but certainly I would miss being part of the four eye mystique. I could go even more creative and use a 1987-88 Cougar nose minus the waterfall grille and create one Ford appropriate with a Tbird emblem in the center. I wish I had several cars to play with. When I was younger and building a lot of model cars I liked mixing up the Tbird and Cougar parts on the early 90's Monogram model kits and I enjoyed the variations I could create. With those model kits I took the Tbird nose and hood and attached it to the Cougar body while I put the Cougar nose, hood and wheels on a Tbird body.

I never intended my Tbird to be an authentic restoration simply because of the budget and resources I am working with. Honestly if I had the money to do it right, I would have just bought a car in much better original condition with lower miles and been bored with it.

I know I tend to obsesses on details that I can change or swap out simply because of the interchangability of parts between different years and models. The nose, dash and wheels seem to be the things that I focus on the most.

Tomorrow I will be putting on the chrome door mirrors.

I really need to get the engine and mechanical rennovations underway. Engine rebuild vs. a remanufactured engine is on my mind. In my ideal world I would put in a new H.O. Ford crate motor and modern engine management. With that I would of course have to do chassis and drivetrain upgrades and install a dual exhaust. That is such a big picture considering where I am at with this project at the moment. Right now I would be happy to have it run decent and reliably without smoking and stalling.  I am too scared right now to drive it anywhere too far from home. Last night I figured out the fuel tank may possibly have been getting too low in fuel which may have contributed to the stalling. I got a two gallon can of gas and dumped it in then took the car for a trip a mile away to a gas station to put a considerable amount of fuel in the tank. I will check out tomorrow how it runs when it is nice outside on my day off. I will also take some daylight pictures of the dash as well.

With the colder weather, doing the interior projects seems more bearable to deal with right now.
Title: Tbird Hood Ornament
Post by: Watchdevil on January 02, 2010, 10:13:46 PM
X


The crowing touch is on the way. I had a perfect NOS one on my former 1985 Tbird and I loved it. With this Cougar nose I am using, it already has the correct openings for the mounting holes and small locator pins. Ford used the same mounting base on a number of hood ornaments throughout the years.

I find it interesting that when the Cougar went from the stand-up hood ornaments of the early Aero Cat years that they created a flat ornament that used the same mounting holes in the header panel...

I wish I could splurge for the classic Tbird ornament with the turquoise inset. They are way too pricey on eBay!

I just noticed the ornament is facing the wrong way in this picture... The beak is supposed to face to the right side of the car.

Below is the picture of the ornament on my old 1985 Tbird. I still get sick when I see the pictures and realize I should have kept this car.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 02, 2010, 11:05:46 PM
Found this picture which inspired me to try the Cougar nose...
Title: Chrome Mirrors!
Post by: Watchdevil on January 03, 2010, 06:45:56 PM
Good working mirrors... Chrome not showroom perfect but I could not believe I found some that did not have chrome peeling off.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 03, 2010, 07:28:31 PM
They look good in pics. that's for sure!
Title: buttstuffog Clock...
Post by: Watchdevil on January 03, 2010, 07:38:14 PM
Here is the working buttstuffog clock I recently found. I painted the hands to match the needles on the gauges.
Title: Delete
Post by: 88turbo on January 03, 2010, 07:47:32 PM
depending on the color your looking for.....  I have a NOS hood bird with the green inserts if your interested.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 03, 2010, 10:36:40 PM
Quote from: 88turbo;305036
depending on the color your looking for.....  I have a NOS hood bird with the green inserts if your interested.


Thanks for the offer but just so you know, I was referring to the 1979 Thunderbird Heritage stand-up hood ornament like this:

X


I am good with all the other exterior ornaments. All of them will have the inserts painted the same color I chose for the gauge needles and hands on my buttstuffog clock. I will also do the dash ornament on the passenger side.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on January 03, 2010, 10:43:42 PM
I found a decent looking chrome pair in the junkyard once, but he was asking $20 each, and since I was already looking at about $50 for what I had picked out, I declined.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 03, 2010, 11:22:24 PM
I spent time today tweaking the dash pad so it looks better finished where it meets the metal defroster panel, and also where the underside of the front meets the dash panel trim plates.

After all this work with the dash pad I am really upset with the dash shell cracking like a box of saltines or a can of Pringles. I never seen anything like it. I lost a few mounting tabs that broke off where speed nuts are secured. I suppose the only fix for this is a good 1985-88 dash since it's near impossible to find a 1983-84 dash shell. I would still be skeptical of having another 1983-84 dash shell if they break this easy after 25 years.

I better enjoy the new dash pad while I can. I hate to take it so far as to strip off the dash shell and make my own over the metal dash frame.
Title: Delete
Post by: 88turbo on January 03, 2010, 11:56:25 PM
that is identical to the one I have and was refering to.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 04, 2010, 12:00:12 AM
Quote from: 88turbo;305069
that is identical to the one I have and was refering to.


Oh really! That's cool because for a moment I thought you were referring to the grille emblems. How much you want for it?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 07, 2010, 12:57:41 AM
I got the regular Tbird hood ornament in the mail today!

Still comtemplating the crumbling dashboard issues and which way to go as a satisfactory solution... I sure did like my w red dash in my 1985. I found a picture of it with the Ford Tempo steering wheel that I had swapped out.

For some reason my indecisive mind wants to find a 1987-88 front header panel. I could just have three different header panels painted and swap them around depending on my moods! Crazy huh?
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on January 07, 2010, 02:39:02 AM
Tell you what, that Tempo wheel sure looks better than those darn A-Frames. Also, I think swapping header panels would get a little old after awhile...:D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 07, 2010, 09:31:17 AM
Quote from: jrad235;305402
Tell you what, that Tempo wheel sure looks better than those darn A-Frames. Also, I think swapping header panels would get a little old after awhile...:D


That poor 85 I had! It was my daily driver and as you can see I abused it by smoking inside. I got it up to 245,000 miles and bought a 1989 Tbird to use as a daily driver because the 85 was starting to suffer from old age. The car was beautiful when I first got it, but it had been repainted before I bought it and a clear coat was never applied so the red paint oxidized badly in no time.

As far as the Tempo steering wheel goes, it extened out slightly more than the original wheel so I had to get used to the longer reach for the turn signal stalk. I was able to use the little Tbird emblem from the original A-frame wheel and cover the little square trim insert with black vinyl. The cruise switches worked perfectly.

Yeah it would get old swapping header panels all the time. I really need to commit to something and stick with it. The header panel and dashboard options are driving me crazy right now. The only reason I am considering swapping to a 1985-88 dash is because my old dash shell is brittle plastic and I cannot find a good one to replace it. There are dozens of the 85-88 style available that I can work with but I am not sure I really want to give up the full-width look of the original dash panel.
Title: Hood Ornament
Post by: Watchdevil on January 07, 2010, 07:46:15 PM
Here it is installed...
Title: Hood Ornament...
Post by: Watchdevil on January 07, 2010, 07:57:38 PM
One more pic...
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on January 08, 2010, 03:57:39 AM
That's actually a really neat concept, And looks pretty darn good when you eliminate the the actual Cougar aspects (emblems mainly) and make it the T-Birds own.

I've always wondered how this would look and work out, And it works out great!
Just not a huge fan of the cougar grilles.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 08, 2010, 06:26:23 AM
Quote from: Romeo2k;305516
That's actually a really neat concept, And looks pretty darn good when you eliminate the the actual Cougar aspects (emblems mainly) and make it the T-Birds own.

I've always wondered how this would look and work out, And it works out great!
Just not a huge fan of the cougar grilles.


I would never had done this if the Cougar never offered an eggcrate grille. 1955-57 and 1960 Tbirds had intricate close checked pattern eggcrate grilles.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on January 08, 2010, 06:55:50 AM
I like the Bird on the header panel.It looks like it belongs there.I don't think it would pass on an '87/'88 though.But on the 4 eye,nice.
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on January 08, 2010, 01:35:27 PM
Yea, I was really skeptical on how it would look with the ornament... But it looks great in this setup!
The Lines and squareness of it flow well with the rest of the header and front end.

...Your making me think about swapping my header. lol.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 08, 2010, 09:01:19 PM
Quote from: vinnietbird;305524
I like the Bird on the header panel.It looks like it belongs there.I don't think it would pass on an '87/'88 though.But on the 4 eye,nice.


Thanks for the compliment Vinnie! I was kinda wondering what you might think about this header swap. I agree I would not even think of molesting a 87-88 with a stand up hood ornament. I like the turbo coupe nose the best. It's interesting how the designers purposely captured some of the lines and cues from the 1958-60 Tbirds and put them to use on the 87-88. The smooth nose with the bird emblem between the headlamps and the brow shape of the top of the headlamps and how it sweeps down. The non-turbo cars even emulated the thick center cross bars of the 1960 grille... And of course, the triple round taillamps as well. When I had my 1985 Tbird I took apart the taillamp lenses and painted the insides with three circles. I thought it looked good. You can somewhat see it in the rear view picture below. If you look on the other side of the Buick Regal, that is my 89 Tbird there. This was at the point I had retired the 85 as a daily driver. I was so attached to this car I didn't want to part with it. I finally did because I never thought I'd ever get around to retoring it and now I regret it. That car was in a much better shape to restore I think than the one I am working with now.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 08, 2010, 09:15:06 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;305549
Yea, I was really skeptical on how it would look with the ornament... But it looks great in this setup!
The Lines and squareness of it flow well with the rest of the header and front end.

...Your making me think about swapping my header. lol.


Yeah it's an interesting alternative mod to the usual I suppose. Sometimes I like to do different just to be different. It was a pain though fixing the stem base of the hood ornament so that it stands up straight in the base fixture mounted to the header panel. I had the file the back bottom and rear edges so it would sit down deeper while the front is tilted up. The top edge of the header is so steep. I wish it was more level to begin with. I wonder how the base fixture is made on the 1983 Cougar stand up hood ornament because that one stands up straight.

The top of the header panel isn't as steep with the Tbird nose, as you can see in an earlier post I did not have to modify to make it stand up straight, although I still had to rock it back just a little so that it would.

Anything can change between now and paint restoration time. Who knows I might want to swap a 87-88 nose on it later. The stuff can be had so cheap when I find parts.

Right now I am dealing with the reality that I will probably have to switch to a 85-88 dash just to have something with structural integrity because all those cracks of the old dash are driving me crazy. It's a shame too because I really like the padded glovebox and driver knee pad design. I also favor the straighter lines which mirror the design a lot of my 08 Mustang dash. I cannot find parts for 83-84 dashes. I am not as crazy about the 1980-82 dash which is also used in the 83-86 LTD and Marquis, mainly because I don't like the exposed plastic driver's knee panel and glove box design. 

I just removed the ends of the dash pad I made. It was cumbersome, not straight up and down, but bowed out too much on the sides when installed and they made contact with the vinyl door panel strip that coincides with the upper door pulls. I am still not happy with the result although I do love the charcoal vinyl and the hooded extension a lot.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 08, 2010, 11:49:53 PM
I can't believe this.. I just checked Pull-A-Part's local inventory and they pulled out a ton of Tbirds and Cougars. This sucks!
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on January 09, 2010, 06:47:12 AM
I especially like the new emblem because there isn't one on the grille.Too many emblems takes away from the overall look.As you have it,it looks great and it looks like it belongs there.Nice touch.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on January 09, 2010, 08:55:17 PM
Sweet!  I like the look. To me it looks more classic/retro.  I'm thinking add some wire wheels and 1" whitewalls, a new coat of black paint and you have the 55-57 look!:D

Does the bezel line up perfectly in the area shown with the arrow?  I seem to recall test fitting Cougar bezels in a TBird and the fender had a slightly different contour in that area??

Great job on the dash pad too. Don't worry about the wood underneath. I've seen 60's Ford consoles made exactly the same way!

It's too bad your dash shell is so brittle. It will probably a looong time until they are repro'd (if ever) so if anyone a decent one, grab 'em!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 09, 2010, 11:28:14 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;305724
Sweet!  I like the look. To me it looks more classic/retro.  I'm thinking add some wire wheels and 1" whitewalls, a new coat of black paint and you have the 55-57 look!:D

Does the bezel line up perfectly in the area shown with the arrow?  I seem to recall test fitting Cougar bezels in a TBird and the fender had a slightly different contour in that area??

Great job on the dash pad too. Don't worry about the wood underneath. I've seen 60's Ford consoles made exactly the same way!

It's too bad your dash shell is so brittle. It will probably a looong time until they are repro'd (if ever) so if anyone a decent one, grab 'em!



It would be easy to find wire wheel covers... That is if I could get the locks off all the ones in salvage yards...

Yes the header panel and lamp bezels line up perfectly. The Tbird fenders and hood are exactly the same as the Cougar so the only difference in the front ends were the Tbird's leaned back header panel vs. the Cougar's more upright one. Bumper covers were exactly the same for both cars too.

You all make me feel better that I am heading into the right direction creating something more interesting and unique with a few interchangeable mix-match parts swaps. If this was a low mileage preserved original condition classic I would have never molested it. However with the condition I found it in, it's not important to me to be original as it is to be more creative.

Ya know it occured to me that I could have snagged some Mark VII flag style rearview door mirrors and they would have worked and looked different than norm. I also entertained the thought of possibly doing the  Mark VII dash as a swap but after looking at and saving pictures I really hate it's dated stacked box and binnicle look.

A 1985-88 dash might be my best solution. However like I said before, Pull-A-Part pulled a bunch of 85-88 Tbirds and Cougars out that I was hoping to go back and look into getting a dash from. There may be one or two cars left I may be able to look at but I am not holding hope. There is one 86 LTD out there I might consider. The best part of that is I can swap my existing gauge cluster right in and it will fit. It would at least retain the basic layout and look of my original dash. If there was only that 1986 Continental I pulled the passenger power seat track from, I could have pulled the entire dash for that one and made it work.

I would never consider a Fairmont or Fox Mustang dash, not even the 87-93 style. If you want my opinion Ford should not have wasted the money to tool up a new dash for the Mustang in 1987, instead putting the far superior Tbird dash to expanded use.

What I really do not want to do is remove the plastic dash shell I have and build it up on the metal frame. It's just too homemade and It's not like I am freakin Chip Foose here. I am not really completely comfortable with the homemade pad I just made even though I put a lot of work into it.

But hey there is nothing wrong with using wood as construction for consoles and dashes. I have seen a lot of really nice custom ones done before.

I doubt we will ever see reproductions of the early 80's dashes. We might possibly for 85-88 but I am not holding my breath. You can virtually get anything you want for the sacred Mustang. I look in the restoration catalogs at the old Fox body Mustangs and it seems they got virtually everything.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on January 10, 2010, 12:14:08 AM
Funny, most wire wheel covers I see in the junkyards are off the car and tossed in the trunk or ground, and most are -junk-!

Interesting, I thought there was a slight difference in the highlighted area...maybe just brainfade.  I'll have to try my test fit again when I get a chance.

I agree on your opinion of some of the Ford dash designs. I think they had it right in 83 and should have continued the theme (along with steering wheels, why the steering wheel "A" design?????)

Doubtful if we'll ever see much stuff repro'd for our cars which is why I keep suggesting to everyone to grab any good stuff they find. I hate to think how much stuff got crushed during the high steel price days.:mad:

It's amazing how much stuff is available for Mustangs...even NOS stuff for the early cars! But I can't complain since I own some Mustangs too.:evilgrin:
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 10, 2010, 12:48:13 AM
Quote from: rodsterh;305769

I agree on your opinion of some of the Ford dash designs. I think they had it right in 83 and should have continued the theme (along with steering wheels, why the steering wheel "A" design?????)



Well I actually liked the 85-88 dash very much when it came out and loved it on my 1985. However I think because I own a new Mustang now I am more favored towards the full width dash themes plus anything that reminds me of classic 60's Tbirds.

A frame wheels sucked when they came out new and suck now. One time I considered ordering a 1984 Mustang new. I had it planned out to NOT get factory cruise control because I did not want the stupid A frame wheel. I liked the three spoke wheel shape of the Mustang SVO's which by then the Mustang GT's without cruise also had an alternate less exotic version of that wheel. I could not figure out in the name of God why Ford was too cheap to integrate cruise switches into that 3-spoke wheel. I suppose if I wanted to make it work now I could install cruise switches somewhere else.  I never use cruise anyway, not even on my new Mustang with traffic like it is nowdays.

A long time ago when I was young and much more niave, I had actually taken a picture from a 1980 Tbird brochure of the dash and clipped out a picture of the Mustang instrument cluster and taped it over the Tbird one. I sent it to Ford suggesting that is what they should use in the Mustang instead of that horrible Fairmont dash. It came back stamped and with a statement saying they could not accept ideas from outside the company.... LOL!


I always favored a Fairmont Futura coupe in my collections of Ford dreams. First thing I would do is rip out the Fairmont dash and swap it for some sort of Tbird one....
Title: Delete
Post by: DVP on January 10, 2010, 08:30:56 PM
Fitment is a car to car issue. I have had 3 header panels on my car, all Cougar. The last one fit the best, lined up flush with everything and helped reduce the hood to header gap.

Funny thing is, its an aftermarket replacement I got from Chuck. Fits better than both Ford pieces I had.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 10, 2010, 10:15:41 PM
Those header panels with the front edge of the hood set back in them have always been problematic. If you notice Ford has adapted the practice of not using them anymore with the front edge of the hood brought all the way forward to close on top of the grille or nose. It does look better and cleaner that way.
Title: Delete
Post by: Chuck W on January 10, 2010, 11:24:52 PM
Too bad you're so far away.  I have a good dash from my old '84 Cougar XR-7.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 10, 2010, 11:48:54 PM
Quote from: Chuck W;305917
Too bad you're so far away.  I have a good dash from my old '84 Cougar XR-7.


Dying here could I sure could use it!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 12, 2010, 08:55:11 AM
I bit the bullet and bought a complete dash from a 1986 Tbird including an instrument cluster. I am holding a funeral for the sad cracked dash shell of the original 84 unit... LOL! This 86 dash will need to be recovered on top and the entire thing color matched for my interior, but at least the dash is structurally solid. The vinyl on top of the dash was the best I have found with no gaping cracks. This one is in a very early stage so recovering the top with result in a smooth look.

I entertained replacing the dash shell with one from a 1986 LTD (recycled 1980-82 Tbird dash) but that dash suffers the same brittleness and had a couple of bad places.

Now I am trying to figure out if I can sucessfully integrate the digital speedo or not. I had a choice to get a full digital cluster with the tach but I figured that one might be too complicated to tackle. I made a safer choice and got a standard digital speedo-only cluster. Is it as simple as just getting a speed sensor and making the connections? I am pretty confident about the rest of the connections. My backup though is to reuse the original 84 cluster and modifying it to fit inside the dash opening.
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on January 12, 2010, 08:10:52 PM
Now wipe a good bit of Vaseline on the dash, let it soak in for a day or so, then buff it out. Do this three or four times before you attempt to install it and you will have much less of chance at cracking it while trying to get it installed. The Vaseline does a great job at softening up the vinyl.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 12, 2010, 11:42:47 PM
Quote from: ProTouring442;306116
Now wipe a good bit of Vaseline on the dash, let it soak in for a day or so, then buff it out. Do this three or four times before you attempt to install it and you will have much less of chance at cracking it while trying to get it installed. The Vaseline does a great job at softening up the vinyl.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


Thanks for you advice Bill! If this dash was the right color I would be on your restoration tip immediately. However, the dash needs to be recolored to match and recovered. I am trying to avoid the typical aftermarket dash cap because I don't want that hard plastic surface. If I had to I could use such a cap but cover it in vinyl. It's going to be more difficult to cover the center to right of the dash because of the elevated contour. It will likely need a seam to compensated for the shift in the vinyl so it will lay flat where it needs to. My idea is perhaps to use a super 3M spray adhesive to lay the vinyl. I am afraid that if I do use vaseline that anything I do will not stick, whether it's using spray adhesive to cover it with vinyl or using vinyl dye spray to change the color.

With the few small cracks there is no other option for me to have a decent looking smooth finished surface. The small cracks are mostly at the top near the defroster vents and the vinyl is typically quite brittle on the top. This dash is blue so it will defnitely need to be recolored to match in some fashion.

I feel like I am morning the reality of the original dash being unfit to continue to use. It's really sad for me I cannot retain the original dash style because it was one of the things I liked about the car compared to the newer models. It is just impossible to find a replacement dash of that style. I could have accepted a 1980-82 style dash or one from a 83-86 mid-size LTD but they are hard to come by and just as brittle. There are no vinyl pads on those lower dashes either, just hard plastic. I actually did find an LTD with a dark brown dash. I started taking it apart and it just revealed pretty much the same brittle plastic dash shell structure. That type plastic just does not hold up. It's a shame too because the actual dash pad would be easy to recover. I still have a 1980 Tbird dash pad that I was hoping would fit over my old dash but the 1984 dash shell was just modified too much for it to fit seemlessly.

You should have seen me running back and forth between the 86 Tbird and 86 LTD trying to figure out which dash I felt like pulling.

It works out better using a 85-88 dash because there will be no issues for my original console to match up with the bottom of the dash. The console of course was carried over from 1984 to 1985 and mates to the bottom of the dash perfectly.

I swear this entire dash senario has worked my last nerve. I think I did good to even find an 85-88 style dash that was not a completely cracked wreck on the top.

Believe it or not I have even re-entertained the idea of using the 94-03 Mustang dash which I still have after the trial fit many months ago.

There is no telling where all this will end up.

On the bright side, I snagged underside decklid trim from the 86 Tbird and a decent rear body panel trunk trim from an 88. I also c00ched some door panel trim from that 88 Tbird and some interior door window dew wipes which are in perfecly flexible condition. Now if I can find some good exterior side window dew wipes.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 12, 2010, 11:49:33 PM
You can see in the pictures above that I am test fitting the original 84 cluster in the 86 dash. I think I am pretty well set on using it. I got it to fit just inside the 86 cluster opening. I actually had to put a hole in the left dash vent duct work so I could pass the speedo cable through it since the 85-88 dashes do not use speedo cables. The only issue now is modifying the 86 gauge and dash trim so it sits down flush over it. I will also have to create trim to mask the areas between the trim bezel and gauge cluster so it will have a finished look.

Making use of the original gauge cluster will make things simpler for me. I'll be able to retain the original mileage readout and cluster wiring. Plus I worked hard on getting the needles painted blue-green and finding an buttstuffog clock which I painted the hands to match the gauge needles. I also did a lot of work adding the Blue LED's to the gauge cluster.

The car I got the dash from had no center console, so the radio and HVAC trim is finished on the bottom for cars without a console. I will need to find a proper trim bezel. The dash trim has the faux brushed aluminum look. I snagged it from a 1988 car. The 86 car I got the dash from had woodgrain.

When I had my red 85 Tbird, it originally came with the faux aluminum. I later switched all the trim to woograin. Seems which the character of this black car I prefer the aluminum look.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 15, 2010, 09:08:42 PM
I am having such a hard time covering the complex contours on the passenger side of the 86 Tbird dash that I dug out the 94-04 Mustang dashboard that I saved which is in very good shape. I am going to try fitting this again and see how I feel with it. I am laying the Mustang dash shell over the original 84 Tbird metal frame. It fits pretty good, especially in the critical areas where the dash angles away for the driver knee panel and glovebox.
 
I told you guys this project was likely to take any turn...
Title: Delete
Post by: DVP on January 16, 2010, 01:38:29 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;306143
Now if I can find some good exterior side window dew wipes.


JCWhittney.

There is a sticky on here about it.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 18, 2010, 12:35:07 AM
Well after my unsucessful attempt at trying to recover the 86 Tbird dash in gray vinyl, I switched gears and decided to install the Mustang dash. It went in very well and I had time to finess the install. My main concern before was securing the dash to the area below the windshield. Problem solved. Using small L-brackets from Lowe's attached to the front edge of the dash, I was able to secure the top front of the dash to the Tbird mounting tabs under the windshield. They do not show. The Mustang dash has generous room to work in with the gauge cluster and passenger airbag area open and exposed. 

Basically, I installed the Mustang dash over the 84 Tbird dash frame. The way the lower part of the 84 Tbird dash angles down and away to the footwells made it ideal for the Tbird dash frame to support the Mustang dash. I was able to retain the function of the defroster vent as well, unlike some SN95 dash swaps into Fox cars. Using the Mustang defroster vent housing, I will have functional side window defrosters as well. I had to use the Tbird's upper airbox housing instead of the Mustang's because the Mustang airbox did not reach the heater box against the firewall. It was easy to mate the mix of pieces together for it to work.

Tonight I ordered on eBay the Mustang's center radio, HVAC and dash vent bezel along with a digital dashtop clock which were missing from the donor Mustang I pulled the dash from. All I need now is the side defroster vents that snap into the dash. I am probably going to find a newer Ford radio to use.

Using this Mustang dash, it stops at the bottom of the centerstack where the Mustang console mates up to it. I thought about using a Mustang console, but I need all the places for window and seat switches. So I decided to retain the Tbird console for use and I will construct a mating console housing to give the bottom of the Mustang dash a finished look.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on January 18, 2010, 02:38:02 AM
Pictures!!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Haystack on January 18, 2010, 02:55:52 AM
X2
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 18, 2010, 08:30:50 AM
Sounds like you should be building custom cars for a living. I can't wait to see the finished product!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 18, 2010, 07:02:46 PM
Sorry guys I didn't have pics earlier. I took some night shots. I'll take some better ones later. I am not finished assembling everything and I am waiting for a few parts to finish it. With the black on the dash I am thinking of going for black carpeting now instead of the charcoal. Of course this dash is entirely padded and there are absolutely no signs of it becoming brittle and cracking. This came out of a 96 Mustang if I remember correctly.

It's hard to find the center stack bezel at a reasonable price. New ones go for $130 on some online store. I found one on eBay for less than half the price. I also got a dash clock for $13. There is a serious lack of late model Mustangs in the salvage yards and all the ones that were there when I pulled this dash had consoles and radio trim bezels missing, as well as the side window defroster vents.
Title: Mustang Dash
Post by: Watchdevil on January 18, 2010, 07:41:45 PM
More pics...
Title: Inspiration...
Post by: Watchdevil on January 18, 2010, 07:54:53 PM
Why the Mustang dash works for the Tbird...

Here are the classic Tbird dash designs which actually inspired the twin cowl look of the 1964 1/2 Mustang...
Title: Delete
Post by: 85cat17 on January 18, 2010, 07:59:53 PM
I really like that dash in your car it looks very nice
Title: Delete
Post by: DVP on January 18, 2010, 10:58:02 PM
Those last 2 pictures where the dash flows into the door make me hate new cars' interior. I wish both sides of the dash in either of my cars mated to the doors like that.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 20, 2010, 01:07:26 AM
Quote from: DVP;306885
Those last 2 pictures where the dash flows into the door make me hate new cars' interior. I wish both sides of the dash in either of my cars mated to the doors like that.


Ya know the 1994-04 Mustang did a pretty good job mating the door panels into the sides of the dash when the doors were closed....
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on January 20, 2010, 01:17:52 PM
The thing to do is figure out how to make that console work. Not sure if I like the door panels as much as the dash though.
Title: Delete
Post by: hcor on January 20, 2010, 07:48:02 PM
I have an old pair of 94-95 door panels and also a center console I'd let go CHEAP if you are interested in frankensteining them into the bird.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 01:49:22 AM
Quote from: hcor;307199
I have an old pair of 94-95 door panels and also a center console I'd let go CHEAP if you are interested in frankensteining them into the bird.


I am interested in the console... See your PM!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 02:03:44 AM
Here is where I am at today with the interior...

Got the glove box catch mounted so that it latches shut... I even added the 86 Tbird glove box light with integral switch.

Got the gauge cluster installed but too late for pictures... all I gotta do now is design a blind for the perimeter opening of the gauge bezel to hide the mismatch.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on January 21, 2010, 09:34:58 AM
Awesome work.I need to see the installed gauges.I would love to get into these kind of mods,but I need to get myself a second car first.I like that dash in these cars.Are there any Stang logos on the dash?If so,how do you plan to remove/hide them?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 10:19:08 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;307252
Awesome work.I need to see the installed gauges.I would love to get into these kind of mods,but I need to get myself a second car first.I like that dash in these cars.Are there any Stang logos on the dash?If so,how do you plan to remove/hide them?


Glad u like the work.

The passenger side airbag is the only thing on the dash that is a Mustang identifier with the script "Mustang" on the cover. I don't have an airbag cover anyway. I will have to fabricate something that will work in it's place to cover that hole.

I just installed the orginal Tbird granny cluster into the Mustang opening. It only has speedo and fuel. Like I mentioned earlier, I need to frabricate some black vinyl to mask the mismatch gap of the cluster to the Mustang gauge bezel.

I am also looking into seeing which way to go with the console. I can either use the original Tbird console or go with a Mustang one, but if I go with a Mustang one, I will need to figure out what to do about all the switches that the Tbird uses in the console area.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 10:20:07 AM
Got a lot of work done last night... Here is the completed look!
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on January 21, 2010, 11:31:00 AM
Big Pimpin' Yo!. :rollin:

So you have the dash installed in there nice and sturdy? and it didnt take any major modification? Wow~Would not have expected that.
Are the vents gonna be operational?
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 21, 2010, 11:45:20 AM
I was wondering, is it possable to use the Mustang's instrument cluster? I'm sure you would have to figure out the wiring to make it work but wouldn't that be easier?
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on January 21, 2010, 11:50:43 AM
For the passenger side,you could fill the Stang emblems and recover the panel in an appropriate vynel material to match the rest of the dash.Just a thought.I love this kind of stuff.
Title: Delete
Post by: mcb82gt on January 21, 2010, 06:02:02 PM
Impressive work, I agree with Vinn, I like to see this stuff put into our cars and done well to look like it came that way. 

very nice.

Mike
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 10:56:46 PM
Quote from: vinnietbird;307274
For the passenger side,you could fill the Stang emblems and recover the panel in an appropriate vynel material to match the rest of the dash.Just a thought.I love this kind of stuff.


I had thought about trying to find a blown airbag, removing the blown bag and taping together the split airbag cover with duct tape from the back side then recovering with foam and vinyl. I just gotta find a Mustang to get parts from. Pull-A-Part simply has no inventory of Mustangs right now. And if there is a blown airbag, there are usually no takers for those.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 11:04:43 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;307270
Big Pimpin' Yo!. :rollin:

So you have the dash installed in there nice and sturdy? and it didnt take any major modification? Wow~Would not have expected that.
Are the vents gonna be operational?


LOL, the pimped out look was of course a joke. I found that searching for Mustang dash pictures the other day.

The vents are totally operational, even the defroster vents at the top of the dash. The Mustang ventilation system is so similar to the Tbird's that it was easy to mate parts for them to work. The biggest concern was having to cut away 3" of the dash where it butts up against the windshield. That meant doing away with the original defroster vent openings. However, I was able to cut two notches in the edge of the dash so the defroster would remain functional. That is something I have never seen others doing with this such dash swap into Fox cars.
Title: Delete
Post by: 88turbo on January 21, 2010, 11:10:30 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;307257
Glad u like the work.

The passenger side airbag is the only thing on the dash that is a Mustang identifier with the script "Mustang" on the cover. I don't have an airbag cover anyway. I will have to fabricate something that will work in it's place to cover that hole.

I just installed the orginal Tbird granny cluster into the Mustang opening. It only has speedo and fuel. Like I mentioned earlier, I need to frabricate some black vinyl to mask the mismatch gap of the cluster to the Mustang gauge bezel.

I am also looking into seeing which way to go with the console. I can either use the original Tbird console or go with a Mustang one, but if I go with a Mustang one, I will need to figure out what to do about all the switches that the Tbird uses in the console area.


you could mount them inside the console so there is a clean look yet the complete functionality of the thunderbird features.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 11:25:06 PM
Quote from: mcb82gt;307327
Impressive work, I agree with Vinn, I like to see this stuff put into our cars and done well to look like it came that way. 

very nice.

Mike


I appreciate everyone's positive feedback. It sure was a good solution for not being able to find a Tbird dash in good shape. I am really happy with how it continues the look of the AeroBird's exterior forms into the interior. It looks like it belongs there. Take one look at the 1994-97 Tbirds and the dash is a very similar theme as the Mustang's. I am also happy that the Mustang dash does carry what was originally a 1958-63 Tbird dual cowl theme and can be understood as a legitimate Tbird heritage design element.

I also had a 1994 Mustang convertible and a 1999 Mustang Coupe and I always liked the dash design. The 1994 Mustang was really a long overdue redesign that expanded on the soft aero forms that all started with the 1983 Tbird in the first place.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 11:31:06 PM
Quote from: 88turbo;307371
you could mount them inside the console so there is a clean look yet the complete functionality of the thunderbird features.


Good idea if it does not sacrifice some compartment room. I may utilize the ashtray area, and there is two places for factory Mustang rocker switches I may be able to use for the windows if I can find a suitable switch to use, such as two convertible top switches. I am not thrilled with there being an empty ebrake area with using the Mustang console and I really have no intention or desire to put an ebrake there. We'll see. I will have a Mustang console on the way soon.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 21, 2010, 11:54:25 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;307270
Big Pimpin' Yo!. :rollin:

So you have the dash installed in there nice and sturdy? and it didnt take any major modification? Wow~Would not have expected that.
Are the vents gonna be operational?


I may have covered this in an earlier post. The Mustang dash shell came on a very heavy metal frame that needed to be modified in places to fit in the shorter cowl Fox Tbird. I found it easier to just remove the metal frame from the Mustang dash shell and install that dash shell over the original metal 84 Tbird frame. The Tbird dash frame angles away at the knees just like the Mustang dash does so it was perfect to use as a base. The biggest modification was to cut 3" from the cowl area of the Mustang dash so it would fit close enough to the windshield. The original curve of the Mustang dash against the windshield was dead on, but it was just too deep which would have made it uncomfortably close to the passengers and cause major issues with the function of the steering column. The 94-04 Mustang firewall retained the basic design of the original Fox design, so it was easy to adapt the dash to fit. I did add some screws from the dash shell to the frame. The most important attachments were on the ends of the dash and at the top at the windshield cowl. I had to adapt and fabricate a mount for the glovebox latch catch to the Tbird dash frame. To great success it works perfectly. I have had nothing but good luck getting this dash to work.

Here are pictures below of the view from inside the gauge and passenger airbag compartment where I made hidden attachments from the top of the dash shell to the windshield cowl area. This is very sturdy.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 22, 2010, 12:02:43 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;307272
I was wondering, is it possable to use the Mustang's instrument cluster? I'm sure you would have to figure out the wiring to make it work but wouldn't that be easier?


I would love to use the Mustang cluster and it may be a project I will persue later. The major issue is that my 84 Tbird uses a speedo cable when the Mustang cluster uses a speed sensor. There are also a lot of wiring and compatibility issues because the Tbird only has a speedo and a gas gauge and a couple of idiot lights. There is also no guarantee the fuel gauges between the two clusters are even compatable...  I am mostly confident making wiring connections that work. My biggest concern would be how to insert a speed sensor and where does it get it's power source or signal from. I figure one side of the speed sensor connector goes directly to the electric speedo, but i need to understand how the other connection is fed.

This is pretty much a trial and error thing for me to learn from, so as long as I can get used parts cheap I never feel bad for trying and failing.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 23, 2010, 09:20:14 PM
Got my Mustang center stack trim bezel today and installed it... Feels good to see the dash starting to look complete... I ordered a passenger airbag delete trim panel that I discovered is made by someone just a few miles away. This will make things easier so I won't have to do as much work. It's pebble grained plastic so I will cover it up in vinyl for a better finished look.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on January 24, 2010, 03:37:48 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;307379
I would love to use the Mustang cluster and it may be a project I will persue later. The major issue is that my 84 Tbird uses a speedo cable when the Mustang cluster uses a speed sensor. There are also a lot of wiring and compatibility issues because the Tbird only has a speedo and a gas gauge and a couple of idiot lights. There is also no guarantee the fuel gauges between the two clusters are even compatable...  I am mostly confident making wiring connections that work. My biggest concern would be how to insert a speed sensor and where does it get it's power source or signal from. I figure one side of the speed sensor connector goes directly to the electric speedo, but i need to understand how the other connection is fed.

This is pretty much a trial and error thing for me to learn from, so as long as I can get used parts cheap I never feel bad for trying and failing.

Looks like the 96 Stang Fuel Gauge/Sender is 14-18 Ohms empty, and 155-165 Ohms full. Looks like it would be a little inaccurate at E, but otherwise close if you used a digi cluster sender(8-12 E/155-160 F), referencing http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=221798&postcount=3 . Your car is fuel injected right?

The speed sensor sits in the tailshaft of the trans were the speedo cable would be usually, and depending on your trans, you should be able to find one and wire it up rather easily. Since the gauge cluster is just information readout, it shouldn't cause any problems. You may need to do some soldering for the idiot lights, or maybe just repin the connector. Shouldn't be too hard to find a base stang cluster with just gas and speed. At most it would have idiot temp and oil "gauges" that only read via an on/off sender, like the idiot lights do.

Hope that helps!

..., this is starting to sound like fun!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 24, 2010, 08:30:40 PM
Quote from: jrad235;307740
Looks like the 96 Stang Fuel Gauge/Sender is 14-18 Ohms empty, and 155-165 Ohms full. Looks like it would be a little inaccurate at E, but otherwise close if you used a digi cluster sender(8-12 E/155-160 F), referencing http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=221798&postcount=3 . Your car is fuel injected right?

The speed sensor sits in the tailshaft of the trans were the speedo cable would be usually, and depending on your trans, you should be able to find one and wire it up rather easily. Since the gauge cluster is just information readout, it shouldn't cause any problems. You may need to do some soldering for the idiot lights, or maybe just repin the connector. Shouldn't be too hard to find a base stang cluster with just gas and speed. At most it would have idiot temp and oil "gauges" that only read via an on/off sender, like the idiot lights do.

Hope that helps!

..., this is starting to sound like fun!


Hey thanks so much for passing along the fuel gauge info. As old as my fuel pump and sender is, it might be a good idea at some point to go ahead an replace them anyway. After I did my fuel gauge replacement several months earlier which I got the spare parts from a Ford truck, I am not sure how accurate it reads. It does however work and I don't mind learning where the accuracy is on the gauge and just keeping up with it.

 In another thread referencing digital dashes in the 83-84 Tbirds, someone posted that even though it's buttstuffog there is still a speed signal wire. I'll have to pull the granny cluster and see if that wire is there.

Yes my car is TBI! I had no idea I was going to get in such an involved project of doing the dash swap and making it work. Earlier when did the test fit many months ago I really didn't think I was going to be happy with it. However this go round I was able to spend enough time with it to do it right. I was able to concentrate on securing the dash in the right places to the original Tbird frame. I was also able to fabricate, locate and mount a functional glove box latch catch and mount it by cutting away the support for it out of the aborted 86 Tbird dash frame and mounting it offset in the 84 Tbird dash frame so that it aligns correctly to the top of the Mustang glove box door.

I think I will look into getting a used Mustang cluster. It would be nice to have the look as correct and factory looking as possible instead of being a little  hodge podge and overfabricated. There are several ones to choose from. All 94-03 Mustangs had a full array of guages including the tach, volts, fuel and temp. The only real difference was the speedo readout between the V6 & V8 models.

I also want to use a single turn signal lever out of the 1989+ Tbird. It will mount perfectly in place of the two stalk setup right to the existing steering column. However they complicated things by changing the wiper system so that it operates through a wiper control module on the newer Tbirds. Everything I read says I cannot possibly function electrically without going to the extent of adpating the newer control module type system.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 24, 2010, 09:00:13 PM
The airbag delete cover is on the way. I will cover it in vinyl to match the lower half of the dash.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 24, 2010, 10:19:27 PM
That's going to look good. Is that the same material your going to use for your filler plate for you instrument cluster?
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 24, 2010, 10:23:59 PM
Oops! I just saw where you're going to try and use a mustang cluster.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 24, 2010, 10:30:14 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;307797
Oops! I just saw where you're going to try and use a mustang cluster.


I am using the original Tbird "granny" cluster for now. I am waiting to find a Mustang cluster on the cheap. I am waiting for Pull-A-Part to get some more Mustangs in since that is the cheapest I can get parts. However for the time being I will use black vinyl to bridge the gap between the speedo trim bezel and the cluster lens.

I have actually had to go to eBay to get a few trim items that I could not wait to get. Mustang parts are kinda pricey used. It's $20 just for a set of side defroster vents. If Pull-A-Part had a fresh batch of Mustangs I could get at before they get picked apart I could have saved a lot of money.

I don't even want to approach a salavage yard where they pull parts for you. They always charge too much. One place I know has a min $50 charge for anything pulled off a car.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 24, 2010, 10:44:48 PM
Wow! They really want to make sure to get thier money! $50 Min. Sheese!!!!!!!! I guess you have to make sure you need alot of items before going that route.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 24, 2010, 10:53:04 PM
Mustang console joint seam... I may separate it there and use the front portion only. I am also going to see if I can use the Mustang shfter plate with it... No shifter going in it at this point, but I may fabricate a cupholder for the shifter inset. Frankenbird for sure...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 24, 2010, 11:09:14 PM
One of the drawbacks to using the original Tbird dash frame was the fact that the horizontal metal brace goes smack dab accross the back of the left and right side a/c vents. I had to cut away the back of the vent housings then make a cut on the top to direct air inside of them. I had to modify the right side vent duct opening as well so it fits across the top of the dash frame while it directs air into the right side vent. For the left vent I will cut the end of the Tbird air duct and use a flexible hose to direct the air into the vent. I will seal the joining of the end of the duct to the hose with some vinyl wrapped around them secured by tie wraps to hold it together. Very rigged I know but it will work. The Tbird ventilation system is poor anyway, not directing all that much air to the side vents. Most of the air comes out of the right center vent. If you seen the design of the two center vent ducts, the right vent duct is larger than the left side which is restricted with a strange staggered shape. This would be that way regardless if I was using the Mustang dash or not.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 24, 2010, 11:42:02 PM
BINGO! The green wire with the white stripe which supplies the speed signal is there on my cluster wiring harness.... Looks like a Mustang cluster is doable...

(http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21986&stc=1&d=1264136044)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 26, 2010, 08:16:20 PM
The granny cluster is installed. I am not feeling it so much with the trim job I did. I am gonna try to work this out better while also keeping my eyes open for a used Mustang cluster and doing plenty of research for the install. I did confirm there is an unused dark green/white stripe wire in my existing instrument cluster harness connector which is used for a speed signal. I am wondering if it is live. I need to look under the car and see if a speed sensor is installed at the transmission inline with the speedo cable.

Bottom picture is me experimenting with the centerstack trimplate cut from the bottom of my original Tbird trimplate. Still waiting for a Mustang console and some trim parts and I will see which way things go. The defroster switch will go away since the Mustang dash locates it under the headlamp switch.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 26, 2010, 08:20:18 PM
I was able to finally make use of the Taurus cupholder insert I snagged from Pull-A-Part a few months ago. It fits perfectly in the lower dash tray insert opening which was also used for the optional componant factory CD player. I think I am going to find a factory Ford stereo that was used in the Mustang since they can usually be had pretty reasonably. I remember the ones I had in my 1994 and 1999 Mustangs and I liked them.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 26, 2010, 08:24:43 PM
Just for retrospect here are the dashes of the two Mustangs I used to have... I had completely forgotten I had the factory componant CD player in the 1999 Mustang. The 1999 Mustang had the worst seat material ever! You'll notice I modded my auto shifter with a boot. Looking at the pic of the 1994 which is the first one posted, I was coloring the cluster bezel to match the airbag trim a few years before Ford even thought about it. Oh yeah and I did sewn on my own leather wrap for that wheel. The seat material was much nicer in the 1994.

With the picture of my 99, you can really tell how much I cut off the dash to make it fit against the cowl in the Tbird....
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 27, 2010, 11:33:30 PM
Got my passenger side airbag delete trim, dash clock and shifter bezel today. The Mustang console is on the way soon as well.

I need help with the 1994-97 Mustang dashtop clock. I don't have a pigtail with a connector and wires. I found a list of what each wire color does but not the positions in the connector. There are no Mustang's in Pull-A-Part. I am thinking I will try to go to U-Pull-It in Rock Hill, SC and see if they have any Mustangs I can get a pigtail from.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on January 28, 2010, 06:56:35 AM
Actually,I may have tyhat pigtail.I'll check after work.If so,I'll ship it to you.I won't be using it.
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on January 28, 2010, 02:35:54 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;308168
Got my passenger side airbag delete trim, dash clock and shifter bezel today. The Mustang console is on the way soon as well.

I need help with the 1994-97 Mustang dashtop clock. I don't have a pigtail with a connector and wires. I found a list of what each wire color does but not the positions in the connector. There are no Mustang's in Pull-A-Part. I am thinking I will try to go to U-Pull-It in Rock Hill, SC and see if they have any Mustangs I can get a pigtail from.

My overworked mind is now thinking if I should go with a 87-88 front end header panel which will be more in character with the style of the Mustang dash... I know it seems crazy I jump from one idea to another. I start out thinking I want the Bird to be one way and it ends up totally different.


I've been giving heavy thought to going the cougar header route on my 'Bird this summer, I've always thought about how it might look and just wasn't sure~But now actually seeing it i think I'm gonna go for it.
I just hope you don't feel like I'm stealing your idea or anything...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 28, 2010, 11:41:13 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;308215
I've been giving heavy thought to going the cougar header route on my 'Bird this summer, I've always thought about how it might look and just wasn't sure~But now actually seeing it i think I'm gonna go for it.
I just hope you don't feel like I'm stealing your idea or anything...


Hey good for you... And it's always easy to change back if you change your mind. No, you are not stealing my idea... I stole it from someone else if you wanna know the truth. I seen a picture of a Tbird with a Cougar nose and I thought what the heck... While I was at the Pull-A-Part I snagged one... I even got one with the metal grille.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 28, 2010, 11:42:41 PM
Quote from: vinnietbird;308191
Actually,I may have tyhat pigtail.I'll check after work.If so,I'll ship it to you.I won't be using it.


Vinnie that would be great! That's for the Mustang clock right? It would make you a life saver and prevent me the aggravation of trying to hunt one down or fabricate something to work.

Thanks Vinnie! Just PM me if you need my addy again...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 30, 2010, 12:34:30 AM
I messed around with the digital cluster I got from a 1980 Tbird. Since I was having some problems with the ribbon circuit in the original buttstuffog cluster, I decided to see if I could make this digital one work. I traced all the wires and color codes, recorded the wire clolors and positions for each cluster. I removed the wires one by one from the original 18 pin connector to the 14 pin one that the digital cluster uses and bingo... A good working cluster.  This cluster does not use VSS, but it is cable driven with some sort of magnito built in to the odometer unit that send a pulse to the digital speedo. I tested it and it works. Even the gas gauge is functioning though I believe it is reading too low. I may have to investigate replacing the sending unit with a proper one. The only thing I have to do is add in some LED's for the turn signal indicators since the digi-cluster for 1980 does not have them integrated. I will also add an LED for the ENGINE light which is also not in this cluster.

Here is the cluster. I spent tonight taking pictures to document the odometer reading on the old cluster vs. the new one... Then I got brave and decided to change the odometer reading on the digital cluster to read the actual mileage of the original buttstuffog one.

So here I have it, 80's tech... It's still cool with it's blue vacuum flourescent readouts. It even goes well with the domed Mustang dashtop digital clock. I intend to replace the two conventional illumination bulbs for the odometer and PRND21 with blue LED's. I am also going to find a nice deep blue clear sheet of plastic to yield the digital display a color closer to typical LED blue. I am not as crazy about the silver outlined squares over the cluster face. Ideally, I like the 1983-84 digital cluster that is all black. Buy hey I snagged this cluster cheap thinking I may never find one at all, so I might as well use it.

Right now I am cleaning up the cluster and polishing the outer clear lens. Back to work...
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on January 30, 2010, 12:41:48 AM
So...Your gonna fit that monster into the Stang dash instead of the stang cluster?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 30, 2010, 01:38:13 AM
Quote from: jrad235;308419
So...Your gonna fit that monster into the Stang dash instead of the stang cluster?


It's the same exact size cluster as the old one. I can put this in without a bunch of complicated wiring that is required for a Mustang cluster which has an entire array of gauges plus there is no VSS on the speedo cable. If I change my mind later and feel up to the challenge of a Mustang cluster I will tackle it. I have cleaned up this cluster since I took the picture and it looks pretty darn good. I also have ideas for doing away with the square boxes around the readouts so that it will look entirely black with the cluster turned off. I have always had a thing for digital dashes and since this is not a hi-performance car I really don't care about the rest of the gauges it does not have.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on January 30, 2010, 07:02:12 AM
I'll find that pigtail later today or tomorrow.We had a bunch of snow dropped on us,and it's (the pigtail) in the garage out behind the house.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 30, 2010, 10:08:17 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;308427
I'll find that pigtail later today or tomorrow.We had a bunch of snow dropped on us,and it's (the pigtail) in the garage out behind the house.


Thanks Vinnie! No rush... We had snow drop on us as well!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on January 31, 2010, 05:25:51 PM
More on the digital cluster...

I added a red LED for the ENGINE light and two green LED's for the turn signal indicators. Inside the cluster I added blue LED backlighting for the odometer and PRND31 indicator.

I was also able to use the original 84 dash cluster trimplate but cut it down to fit so that the cluster looks better finished when it is installed in the Mustang dash.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on January 31, 2010, 06:18:23 PM
Heck yeah man, that's not looking too bad at all!!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 02, 2010, 12:38:42 AM
I got a used Mustang center console today thanks to hcor!

I did a test fit of it and it's off on the left side where it neets the center stack. I will later adjust the Tbird dash frame support rod where it mounts to the steering column bolts and move the dash forward and see what happens. It has a slot in the dash end of the rod that allows for tolerance adjustment. I have to clean the console up, get some matching gray dye and spray it. I need to find the console compartment insert as well as either an ashtray lid or a newer style cupholder that replaces the ashtray. I will also have to frabricate a bracket to support the rear of the console to the tunnel.

Looks like I will be moving the Tbird window, mirror and seat switches to the Mustang's oval shifter plate area. I will look for a switch trimplate from a Tbird or Cougar with the driver's seat mounted consolette. I will trim that plate down to fit under the Mustang's oval shifter trim opening shape and bond it from underneath.

I have the empty handbrake slot to deal with. I have no intention of installing a handbrake, so I may just fill it with plastic covered with vinyl and bond it in from underneath.

In regards to the digital dash face, I am considering some faux carbon fiber decal material that I sell at work. That may update the gauge face nicely so all those 80's squares are not in the gauge face. I can lay it over the face and cut out the areas around the idiot lights, odometer and digital display windows.
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on February 04, 2010, 05:17:12 PM
I haven't visited here in a while.  I just read every entry in this entire thread from the beginning back in May of last year to the most recent post.

You, sir, are pretty darn cool.  I can't wait to see the next thing you come up with!  Amazing ingenuity and creativity thus far.  Plus, you type in complete sentences!  ;-)

Awesome.  Just awesome.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 04, 2010, 09:44:26 PM
Quote from: jkirchman;309205
I haven't visited here in a while.  I just read every entry in this entire thread from the beginning back in May of last year to the most recent post.

You, sir, are pretty darn cool.  I can't wait to see the next thing you come up with!  Amazing ingenuity and creativity thus far.  Plus, you type in complete sentences!  ;-)

Awesome.  Just awesome.


Thanks for the compliments!

I have something special I am planning that will be a cool little surprise! Stay tuned!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 05, 2010, 10:06:12 PM
The Hollywood Squares are now gone.... I bought some carbon fiber decal material, laid it flat over the original gauge face panel and cut out the windows for the readouts and lights.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on February 06, 2010, 01:44:59 AM
Lookin' pretty sharp!
Title: Delete
Post by: Eliminator on February 08, 2010, 12:00:21 AM
wow, yeah keep looking on craigs list and ebay for the dash stuff. Ive been seeing NOS stuff for our cars pop up from time to time on Ebay esp. Good luck, you might as well change out the heater core since its all apart. Look on coolcats.net for help and type. DOnt go cheap. Best of luck!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 08, 2010, 12:32:20 AM
My heater core is working okay. However it's way too late to change it now since I have the dash in already. I know how to whip it apart if I ever have to...

I think I have found everything I need to complete the dash install. I have the Mustang console, shifter trim and armrest pad. I just ordered a cupholder insert from a 1999 Mustang to cover the area around the missing ashtray lid. I also ordered the armrest compartment insert which also has a cupholder. I just realized I am going to have FIVE cupholders when I am done... LOL!  I have two in the sliding coin/cup tray I got from a Taurus and inserted into the bottom slot of the centerstack where the optional CD only player goes.

I have figured out how to make the gaping slot for the Mustang handbrake opening in the console functional. It will become sort of a map pocket. I will make a black vinyl liner that will go inside the slot. It will be handy as a place to stuff mail when I check my mailbox or stuff a magazine, check book or something.

I just bid on a factory radio with cassette player as well. I probably will never use the cassette player itself but I will likely hook up an iPod connection using an FM signal converter.

For some reason I am getting concerned that the upright Cougar header panel is not flowing well enough with the rest of the car and seems too formal, especially since I swapped out to a much swoopier and sportier dash. I may go back with the original header panel or think about going with a 87-88 style.

I have also decided that the wheel covers I bought are now totally out of character with the Mustang interior, so they will not be a permanent style. I really would like a set of Mustang turbines.

I have to order paint for the console. The one I got is tan.

I discovered last night my window switch stopped working and won't raise the window on the driver's side. I confirmed it was the switch by swapping the wire pins on the connector.

I am not happy with LED turn signal indicators I incorporated into the 1980 digital cluster. They are way too bright.

I need to do something about the fuel sender as well. It reads opposite from the buttstuffog gauge and when I fill the tank it reads empty.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on February 08, 2010, 01:13:35 AM
Try some kind of dark smoked plastic over the LED's.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 10, 2010, 12:26:38 AM
Quote from: jrad235;309598
Try some kind of dark smoked plastic over the LED's.


I worked on the cluster again. I removed the green LED's from the holes I remounted them to the back side of the cluster face. I had a 1980 Tbird dash pad with the upper tier indicator and idiot lights installed in it, so I removed the transluscent tier strip and cut the green turn signal indicator lamp arrows from it. I glued them to the back side of the round LED holes in the cluster face and now the light is filtered and much dimmer to a normal level of brightness.

While I had the cluster out again, I decided to remove the blue LED lights from the cluster that I had installed. The blue LED's just did not look good lit up with the blue-green vacuum flourescent digital readouts. I also installed the domed Mustang dash top digital clock. The color for the digital readout matches the instrument cluster readouts, so I reverted the instrument cluster and the HVAC rotary control panel back to the factory blue-green illumination colors which is just simply regular white bulbs with light shining through blue-green filters.

It is kinda cool to forget modern LED technology and represent the perpective that back in the day, the blue-green LED readouts were the state of the art. I'll have to say very dependable technology as well since the digital cluster is out of a 1980 car that has been sitting in a salvage yard. I have spent so much time getting the cluster to look and function right plus fabricating things to work together and look decent. For instance, I trimmed the original 84 Tbird dash cluster trimplate to make the inside of the Mustang gauge trim panel look finished off with the 80 Tbird dash cluster inside of it.

I also went with squared-off 1989-93 Tbird steering column trim because that is the only one that will retain the Fox style tilt wheel function that tilts directly behind the wheel while filling the larger square steering column hole in the Mustang dash. I had to cut away openings for the column shifter as well and cut and trim openings in the right places for the dual wiper/turn signal stalks. I even had to cut a large opening in the bottom of the column trim so I could operate the hazard flasher mounted in the bottom. My solution for making all this looked finished off was to cover the upper and lower column trim with black vinyl. I had to cover the hole in the top where the hazard flasher button was relocated starting with 1989 Tbirds. I also fashioned the vinyl to hang down and overlap the bottom column trim on the left side so the enlarged holes needed to make the range in movement of the wiper/ turn signal stalks looks concealed. Where the vinyl extends down on the left side, it is fastened down to the bottom half of the column trim as a flap with a velcro strip to fasten it in place. The black vinyl is held on the upper and lower column trim with spray adhesive but doubles as a seemless boot for the gear shift lever and left side stalk levers where the plastic on the column trim was cut away. It was a simple matter of cutting vertical slots in the vinyl to allow the stalk levers  and gear shift lever to poke through it. Maybe pictures will describe it better.

Now that I have these things out of the way, my only work left to the dash will be to install the used factory stereo radio I ordered. I also need to cover the right hand airbag cover delete trim with vinyl for a better finished look. I have to paint the left and right dash vents. I also have to work on the Mustang console. It needs to be painted gray to match. I found a trimplate for the power switches from a "consolette" Tbird and it is going to mount perfectly under the oval shape of the Mustang's shifter trimplate opening. This console should be a breeze to mount, but I really have to wait to get the carpet. I also needed the floor tunnel mounting bracket for the rear half of the Mustang console. The Mustang I pulled some parts from had it rivited to the floor tunnel and I did not bring the right tools to get it off.

I guess the next important and biggest step now is to get the Bird in good mechanical condition. I am pretty much done with interior trim at this point until after I get the exterior refinished.
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on February 10, 2010, 05:42:19 PM
Would it be possible to connect a 3.5mm auxiliary sound input to the factory head unit rather than using an FM transmitter?  I'm just asking because I have never been impressed with the sound quality of FM transmitters.  The best ones come with cables that actually go in-line between the factory antenna cable and the back of the head unit and they wire up to 12V somewhere behind the dash. But even those aren't as good as a straight input, IMO. 

Just wondering what you were considering in that respect is all.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 10, 2010, 11:15:14 PM
Quote from: jkirchman;309846
Would it be possible to connect a 3.5mm auxiliary sound input to the factory head unit rather than using an FM transmitter?  I'm just asking because I have never been impressed with the sound quality of FM transmitters.  The best ones come with cables that actually go in-line between the factory antenna cable and the back of the head unit and they wire up to 12V somewhere behind the dash. But even those aren't as good as a straight input, IMO. 

Just wondering what you were considering in that respect is all.


I suppose I should think about it more. I know with the original factory radio I had the 3.5mm input would be easy to do with the old style volume control. I'll have to see what I can do with the newer style radio because it has chicklet push button controls. I also never tried one of those cassette adapters with the auxilary input cord attached. With this car it is not a daily driver nor will it ever be so I am not as concerned with sound quality as I expect to be with my 08 Mustang. I could have held out for a nice new single DIN audio unit with aux inputs in the faceplate but I kinda like using the Ford factory radio for the OE look that matches the dash style. I got the radio pretty cheap. If I really wanted to I could have gotten the updated large din faceplate on the newer model SN-95 Mustangs. There are dozens of large din audio units for sale on eBay. If I was more fanatical I could have even installed a touch screen audio unit. I don't even have that in my 08 Mustang and if it becomes important enough I would put one in that car first.  If I was able to buy a new 2010 or 11 Mustang it would have to have SYNC or I would not take it. That technology is even advancing further in future Mustangs where everything will eventually be controlled by a center touch screen including HVAC, ambient lighting and whatever else they can put in there. Can you imagine how many buttons, s and controls they can get rid of and clean dashes up for simplicity, not to mention that gauge clusters will eventually go to flat LCD displays that have the ability to infintely customize the appearance of the display. I love technology... until it breaks... LOL!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 11, 2010, 01:15:50 AM
Pondering thoughts for the night... UGHHH.. Feeling guilt right now over the prospect of not using the original Tbird console... I guess because it is in perfectly good shape and looks better to me than the Mustang one but I hate to not include the flowing transition of the Mustang console into the center stack. My original plan was to make lower center stack extensions covered in vinyl that would meet the Tbird console. I hate having so many options!

I am feeling guilt over not using the original buttstuffog gauge cluster as well since I went to the trouble to paint all the needles blue-green.

I am also not as excited anymore over the Cougar header panel clip. The 87-88 Tbird noses look so good but I hate to not stay part of the four eyed club as well. Downside to the 87-88 nose would be coming up with nice set of headlamps. I don't even know if I could polish out a hazed set to satisfaction. I like the halo rectagular headlamps that I got for the four eyed header panel. It sucks when you have one car and like utilizing different looks!

I am really going insane over having so many choices I can make. I guess it's good thing I don't have as much of a choice but to stay with the rear end styling because nothing else fits it. I like the 85-86 style taillamps which would be easy for ME to convert to sequential flashing LED units but I do not really want to part with the original Bird emblem designs, unless of course I look into seeing if the old Bird emblems will completely cover the area that the newer ones do... Oh .. now I have opened another can of worms of modifications I can obsess about! LOL!

Something tells me I'd enjoy having a second car to try these different looks on... I am just way too addicted to creating my own designs with interchangable and easily fabricated parts. It feels like I am building a giant custom model car!

What I am not feeling guilty about is using the Mustang dash. Every time I look at the pictures of classic 1958-63 Tbirds, I enjoy the similarities and the interesting related design themes. I feel so justified by not going with another plastic original style dash shell that would crack and not having to worry about the dash pad looking right. The 1985-88 dash was an option but not an exciting one to me, I guess because it's common and expected. I also spent a few years with that style in the 1985 I used to have. I seem to get off more making something unique and unexpected. I can imagine if I ever entered a car show it would be more of a memorable conversation piece and a personal expression of myself. 

I cannot help the Chip Foose tendencies in me despite the fact I don't have his talent and resources!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 11, 2010, 07:36:04 PM
More progression...

The digital instrument cluster is installed, trimmed and finished into the Mustang cluster trimplate.

The dashtop clock is installed.

I cleaned and vacuumed the interior then staged the Mustang console in place for pictures, but it is not painted and attached yet so don't pay attention to the gaps.

The guilt about using not using the original Tbird console has somewhat dissipated after staging the Mustang console with the shfter trim plate in place.

I am still on the fence about the front end header panel. I still think I may need to revert back to an shovel nose.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 11, 2010, 07:47:44 PM
One more shot of the interior...

I need to find a working window switch and a square power mirror switch.

I am going to bond the 86 Tbird consolette switch plate to the shifter trim soon. I recieved the Mustang console compatment bin with the sliding cupholder today. I am going to work in the Tbird's compartment light. I also need to cover the airbag delete plate with black vinyl. In doing that there will be a interesting little surprise I will reveal. I had bigger plans for this surprise, but I changed my mind for reasons I will reveal later.

I really need my shift lever to be bent in at a more accute angle close to the steering column so it does not bind against the cluster trim. I tried bending a spare I had laying around but I discovered it is just pot metal that breaks. There are no other vehicles that use a different lever that will accommodate my need. If it starts to bother me too much then I will likely succumb to a floor shifter conversion and relocate the window and seat switches from the shifter plate location.

Hopefully the radio will be here tomorrow. I am praying the readout is blue-green. I discovered the left front speaker I got used is no good. I'm gonna have to find another.
Title: Delete
Post by: RunninWild on February 11, 2010, 11:17:01 PM
that looks awesome man!
Title: Console Switchplate
Post by: Watchdevil on February 11, 2010, 11:42:02 PM
Okay folks here is the consolette switchplate trimmed down and bonded to the bottom of the Mustang shifter plate. It was just meant to be. Interesting thing is there is a curvature to the surface of the Tbird consolette switch plate which rises, so I could only bond this on three sides. However, it leaves me the opportunity to mount the Tbird's ashtray light in the front of the trimplate so that light shines through the gap on the front edge. Of course I have a blue bulb in the lamp that will illuminate a blue-green that will match the rest of the dash illumination.

I will also be going for anti-LED ambient lighting under both sides of the dash using conventional blue bulbs I will add a couple to the rear seat area as well, probably on the rear sides of the console. Truck style step bumper license plate lamp fixtures would be perfect for the rear as to not direct light directly upward into any passenger's eyes. My theory in application is to demonstrate the use of ambient lighting using conventional bulbs if it was done back in the old days like LED ambient lighting is popular today.

I thought about putting the blue bulbs in the courtesy lamps on the inside quarter panel trim as ambient lighting but that would be visible from behind while driving and probably illegal use of blue light. However I may still use blue bulbs in them as courtesy lights.

Interesting thing I did to my 08 Mustang dome lamp. I put a set of blue LED's in the light fixture next to the conventional lights. When I open the doors or activate the remote keyless unlock it illuminates only the blue LED lights within the map light housing. However if I need to read a map or just need white light, I push the map light button on for white light.

I need to eliminate the number of dome/map lights I will have in the Tbird. I originally bought an updated Taurus map/courtesy light to get rid of the old original pitted chrome fixture in the center of  the headliner. I also have a rear view mirror with courtesy/map lights. I recently picked up a Lincoln Continental overhead map light console with a neat little flip down center sunvisor. So I think I will be illiminating the center headliner mounted dome/map light altogether.

Did you all know that Ford uses the same roof brace at the rear of the roof as they do the center? The rear roof brace has the provisions to mount the center dome lamp!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 11, 2010, 11:51:35 PM
Quote from: RunninWild;309987
that looks awesome man!


Thanks so much!

I am no longer feeling the Cougar nose... I think it will be going away soon. It was a cheap experiment of being different which I wanted to see if the novelty would wear off or if the look would have longevity and feel right after some time. Don't anyone be surprised if I offer it up for sale soon.

I am contemplating which way I really want to go with the header panel.

I think I have made all the right decisions with the interior. I don't regret the dash swap one bit. This is never going to be an all original showpiece with great value in the future anyway. This is my personal fun project car that I hope to die with.  I am happy with what I have accomplished so far, plus it allows me quite a bit of my own self expression. Now I need to channel that passion into what is really more important... the mechanicals! Otherwise it will be just end up being a big lawn ornament!
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on February 12, 2010, 12:31:41 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;309992

I am no longer feeling the Cougar nose... I think it will be going away soon.


Whew!

 Four-Eyes forever! Actually, I prefer the Mark VII grille to the T-Bird one at first glance, but have never really looked into it.

Also, I love your ability to not ever get matching parts :D (Tan, and Grey, and Blue...)

Just giving you a hard time, great work man!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 12, 2010, 06:19:29 AM
Quote from: jrad235;310003
Whew!

 Four-Eyes forever! Actually, I prefer the Mark VII grille to the T-Bird one at first glance, but have never really looked into it.

Also, I love your ability to not ever get matching parts :D (Tan, and Grey, and Blue...)

Just giving you a hard time, great work man!


I love my ability to never find matching parts and when I do they are broken and cracked... LOL! I got so much on the cheap that I could not resist using the parts instead of waiting out for perfect matching ones. This car looks so much like redneck patchwork right now until the interior is color matched and the exterior is refinished.

The Mark VII grille is nice, but that is no direct swap. It requires different fenders which would have non-matching wheel arches as well as a whole different front bumper system. I am almost positive the hood is different too.

Oh yeah, I seen a red lower driver's knee trim at the last trip to the salvage yard but it had broken screw tabs... LOL!
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on February 12, 2010, 12:32:58 PM
How easy is it to read the instrument cluster while sitting in the driver's seat?  The stock Mustang cluster is set at more of an angle.  Your cluster looks as if it is almost vertical.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 12, 2010, 06:24:43 PM
Quote from: jkirchman;310031
How easy is it to read the instrument cluster while sitting in the driver's seat?  The stock Mustang cluster is set at more of an angle.  Your cluster looks as if it is almost vertical.


The cluster is in the exact same plane vertically as it is installed in a Tbird. The area behind the Mustang cluster trim was exactly big enough to swallow the Tbird cluster without cutting it down. I did have to cut away a small portion of the inside back of the Mustangs dash cluster support so that the speedometer cable could be installed into the back of the cluster. The only other thing I had to do was trim away the depth of the Mustang cluster trimplate at the top inner part to clear the top front of the Tbird cluster. I took the orignal cluster trimplate from the Tbird and trimmed it down so it would fill the areas around each side of the cluster while I added some vinyl to that trimmed down plate at the top to completely close off the curved upper gap at the inside top of the Mustang trimplate.

I bought a second Mustang instrument cluster trim and cut off wiring harness connectors out of a salvaged car just in case I could engineer a way to use a Mustang cluster at a later date. None of the Mustangs I came accross in salvage yards had a cluster in it. eBay has quite a few. I think I would like to eventually use the Mustang cluster simply because it belongs there, but I have a lot of electrical wiring research to do before I can attempt to adapt it. Even at that, I am not certain if the newer Mustang clusters have to be specially flashed or not. The early SN-95's had mechanical odometers but they still use a cable-less speed sensor.
Title: Delete
Post by: 88CougarGT on February 12, 2010, 08:37:04 PM
I installed one of those late model tape decks (from a 99 contour) when my factory radio kicked it.  It plugged right into the factory harness and works great.  I did have to do a little modifying to the bracket to make it work but you wont have that problem.
Title: Delete
Post by: T-BirdX3 on February 12, 2010, 09:17:11 PM
Man, that Mustang dash looks great in there!!!! Good Job!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 12, 2010, 09:27:47 PM
Quote from: 88CougarGT;310078
I installed one of those late model tape decks (from a 99 contour) when my factory radio kicked it.  It plugged right into the factory harness and works great.  I did have to do a little modifying to the bracket to make it work but you wont have that problem.


Ya know the radio I bought was listed as coming from a Contour...  I have the old style plugs so in antition I already have the newer style plugs.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 12, 2010, 09:31:39 PM
Quote from: T-BirdX3;310088
Man, that Mustang dash looks great in there!!!! Good Job!!


Thanks! I am absolutely loving it in there and it really fits the rounded character of the AeroBird.
Title: Delete
Post by: hcor on February 13, 2010, 11:05:32 AM
I have the seat, window and mirror switches you need for your panel, let me kow if you still need them. Looking awesome, I knew the console was going to a good home.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 13, 2010, 10:04:06 PM
Quote from: hcor;310131
I have the seat, window and mirror switches you need for your panel, let me kow if you still need them. Looking awesome, I knew the console was going to a good home.


I cannot thank you enough! I am also glad I can use the console in it's entirety. I got the rest of the parts I need for it to be complete. I can in fact use a couple of the switches. See your PM!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 15, 2010, 01:58:06 AM
Got the radio installed today.  thing has slime green illumination and digital readout. I never thought to ask about that before I bought it. It was only $14 and it works. I gotta get another LF door speaker.


While I was installing the radio, I extended the rear defroster wires over to the left side of the dash where the switch is under the headlamp switch.

Well, here is the little special touch I mentioned I was going to work on. I covered the airbag delete panel with black vinyl and put one of my extra quarter panel Bird emblems on it. It helps that area from looking like a featureless void. The original plan I had was to cut the shape of the Bird emblem out of the panel and use some sort of clear lamp housing and some blue LED's to light it up with the dash illumination. However since I diverted from my plan of using blue LED's for the dash lighting because of the light colors not matching the digital readouts, I decided to go with a regular emblem.

Bottom picture is the Bird covered with the 3" of snow we got which I took through the front window looking out to the driveway. I thought it was really interesting the forms the accumulated snow took against the surfaces of the car. It sorta reminds me of undetailed clay prototypes...
Title: Delete
Post by: mcb82gt on February 15, 2010, 07:54:55 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;309953
There are no other vehicles that use a different lever that will accommodate my need. If it starts to bother me too much then I will likely succumb to a floor shifter conversion and relocate the window and seat switches from the shifter plate location.
.


I havent followed your whole thread, but would the MGW shifter with rotating handle, fit your needs??
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on February 15, 2010, 09:22:52 AM
Man , you do some really cool work :D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 16, 2010, 02:09:38 PM
Airbag delete cover installed ;)
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on February 16, 2010, 04:57:32 PM
It needs a smaller bird on the delete panel you made....or no bird at all.It's a little distracting,and,the Bird looks too old for that dash.It's all about what you like in the long run,and I mean no disrespect at all.I have done a lot of mods in my Sport that may not have been that appealing to everyone.The panel is awesome.Great work with the covering.Nice dash install as well.I'd love to have one of those,but don't have the guts to try it.LOL.
Title: Delete
Post by: T-BirdX3 on February 16, 2010, 06:25:36 PM
Man that dash looks awesome!! Keep up the good work!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 16, 2010, 10:36:33 PM
Quote from: vinnietbird;310454
It needs a smaller bird on the delete panel you made....or no bird at all.It's a little distracting,and,the Bird looks too old for that dash.It's all about what you like in the long run,and I mean no disrespect at all.I have done a lot of mods in my Sport that may not have been that appealing to everyone.The panel is awesome.Great work with the covering.Nice dash install as well.I'd love to have one of those,but don't have the guts to try it.LOL.


Hey I appreciate your feedback and I know how it is that everything I like or will try may not appeal to everyone. When I test fitted the panel without anything on it, for me it looked too bare and bland. I really debated whether to use the big honking quarter panel Bird. However that panel is such a large scale that the scale of the bird on it looks balanced to me. A smaller bird would look lost while also putting a smaller bird offset to the right just didn't look right with the sweep of the arch. I also happen to like the old straight edged bird emblems. The problem right now is that it is not in pristine condition because the chrome is dull so it not as good as fresh and crisp as it could look.

Later on, I plan to have all my old "C" pillar emblems re-chromed. I also have pending plans to paint the black inserts of all the Bird emblems blue-green as a throwback to the classic ones that included the turquoise which I like against the black....

I supposed I could have held out for a 2002-05 style Thunderbird script which is also what I would like to use on the decklid after I get the exterior refinished.

One of the biggest challenges of placing the Thunderbird emblem is aligning it so it looks balanced within the shapes it is set in. The Mustang passenger airbag opening is such an irregular assymetrical shape that it absolutely had to be centered correctly for the eye and not exactly centered to the longest length of the panel itself... It also had to be set so that it was not too high because of the domed top center of the panel.

I also like the flushness of the trim panel more closely matching the gauge cluster panel instead of how the Mustang passenger airbag cover is concave which is not consistant to the gauge cluster panel. The dual arch desing of the dash is not exactly symetrical anyway, with the brow over the gauge cluster smaller and more hooded over the gauges while the passenger side is more laid back towards the windshield with a wider arch.

Ford had that same problem placing the Bird emblems on the taillamps of the 1989-97 models because of the trunk opening bisecting the continuity of the taillamp design.
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on February 16, 2010, 11:05:58 PM
That looks really cool.
Maybe a TC Steering wheel would blend better with the dash shape/s though?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 16, 2010, 11:53:38 PM
Quote from: Romeo2k;310506
That looks really cool.
Maybe a TC Steering wheel would blend better with the dash shape/s though?


I have done a lot of visual research on figuring out what steering wheels I would like and which ones would install interchangably with the Fox steering column. I settled on the 1979-84 four spoke wheel because I like the Bird emblem on the transluscent centerpiece and the fact that it has four spokes placed where I like them. Nevermind the skinny rim which is skinnier now that I took the worn out original leather wrap off. My plan is to cover that rim with thick padding and leather and stitch it myself, then it will look much better. 

I don't like A frame wheels, or wheels with no spokes at 3 & 9. I could go for a 84-86 Mustang three spoke wheel GT or SVO but I would have to relocate the cruise control switches to use it. But you know it's got me thinking why do I even care about cruise control anymore with the traffic around here I never use it.... Not even on my 08 Mustang. And I seldom ever use it on a trip when I go on one. 

I do know one thing I don't wanna use is a newer style wheel with a honking airbag... My only other option was the non-airbag wheel in the 1989-93 Tbirds but it has a deep collar and would put the wheel way too close to my chest, not to mention the uncomfortable reach to the turn signal lever from the rim.


(http://mustangview.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/86int.jpg)

(http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/1982-1983-1984-1985-1986-ford-mustang-21.jpg)

Ya know I could really throw you all off and use this one below... LOL!

(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2431/3589288183_9d50c57685.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: Carpimp1987 on February 17, 2010, 09:30:11 AM
looks good now will look better when its done and so what if the bird is big as long as you remeber to look at the road i could careless.
Title: Delete
Post by: hcor on February 17, 2010, 09:21:17 PM
I think that looks awesome! I have an extra 3 spoke GT wheel laying around if you decide you need one, It isn;t the leather wrapped one just vinyl.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 18, 2010, 12:39:58 AM
Quote from: hcor;310587
I think that looks awesome! I have an extra 3 spoke GT wheel laying around if you decide you need one, It isn;t the leather wrapped one just vinyl.


Don't tempt me... You know the hole shapes between the spokes of the wheel would go great with the arched shapes of the dash and console shifter plate. I am good at covering steering wheels with leather wrap. I think almost every car I have had I have either added it or taken off the worn one and recovered it. I even helped a friend with a couple of Cadillacs he was restoring.

Even with my new 08 Mustang, I liked the white stitching of the 2010 models so much that I took the black stitching out of mine and sewed in some white stitching... Now I have the 2010 leather seat covers to match!

I need to think about that 3-spoke wheel... With a wheel that nice, I have no reservations about relocating the cruise switches or deleting them altogether. I could even mount them on something that would make them like a crude remote iPod touch pad with a removable cord and just plug it in at the base of the steering column if I decide to use the cruise system. I am not even sure if the cruise works on my old Bird now anyway. I never thought to check it before now. However I would have to work out a Tbird emblem for the horn pad. I still have a small straight edged bird left over from the original A frame wheel I could work with.

I could get it and see if I like using it. The nice thing is that it is easy to change back and forth depending on my mood...LOL!

Let me sleep on it... LOL!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 19, 2010, 12:26:58 AM
I've not been able to get on as much, my computer's been down with a virus the past couple weeks. The air bag delete looks great! I like the Bird emblem it looks like it belongs there. I can't wait to see what else you come up with.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 19, 2010, 12:30:19 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;310689
I've not been able to get on as much, my computer's been down with a virus the past couple weeks. The air bag delete looks great! I like the Bird emblem it looks like it belongs there. I can't wait to see what else you come up with.


Thanks man! It seems to be a love-hate concensus but then again all great design ideas are like that! ;)

I do wanna drive this car around... Gotta wait... I cannot trust it over five miles or five minutes at this point...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1 BADBIRD on February 19, 2010, 08:45:09 AM
looking good man !
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 19, 2010, 04:43:18 PM
Quote from: 1 BADBIRD;310708
looking good man !


Thanks to the one with the Bird that looks awesome! Love the color choice! "Grabber" colors as I call them are kewl!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1 BADBIRD on February 19, 2010, 05:13:44 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;310741
Thanks to the one with the Bird that looks awesome! Love the color choice! "Grabber" colors as I call them are kewl!


The color will definately GRAB YOU !!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 19, 2010, 07:23:25 PM
Quote from: 1 BADBIRD;310743
The color will definately GRAB YOU !!


Defenately! I think I mentioned before I liked your car when it was on ebay, and I saved some of the pics from the ad to my computer. That thing is sweet!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 19, 2010, 09:19:05 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;310762
Defenately! I think I mentioned before I liked your car when it was on ebay, and I saved some of the pics from the ad to my computer. That thing is sweet!


Choosing a color can make a difference on the visual impact especially if it is not an OE color offering... I certainly took notice of Vinnie's Bird real quick since it is not an OE color offering for his model.

When I went to buy my 08 Mustang I had been looking at Grabber Orange because I like it. I was hung up more on the fact that my first car was a white Mustang II Cobra II with blue stripes and I had every intention of doing the LeMans stripes in blue on my new one, but I decided I like the black stripes so much I left it alone.. Then I got nostalgic for the application of black on Boss Mustangs. I did have a black Boss style stripe on the hood a while back but I was so unhappy with the job I did putting it on myself that it drove me crazy that it was slightly off center and slightly crooked front to back. I can pick up on the slightest variations with my eye so I peeled the dang stripe off one day with every intention of getting another one professionally installed. I have not gotten around to it yet because I have been so involved with my Tbird. I have my Mustang pretty much like I want it to be, besides the fact that I will not ever have the new 5.0... And I am not about to make my life a hardship buying another new car ever again especially since new Mustang prices have skyrocketed,  so I am enjoying mone as a daily driver until the day that I will have to restore it like the old Tbird. I have gotten the interior of my Mustang to look very nice with the additional satin aluminum acessories and trim, plus the 2010 style black leather seats with the white sitching. I don't feel so much like I am missing all that much having the older model with some of the newer look.

Oh yeah and I also like the new 2010 Grabber Blue!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 19, 2010, 10:36:51 PM
I'm with you on color, I really like the combo on my car. It's the factory colors but I think the black and grey looks great. I have a chance to buy an 04 Mustang Mach One, compition orange with only 15k miles on it. A friend of mine is selling it and would really like for me to have it since he knows I'll take great care of it and he knows how bad I'd love to have it. But the timing is all wrong. I'm still laid off, and Sharrie's going to be needing a newer dd, as well as planning on getting married this summer, so another toy just isn't going to work right now. I'm thinking of trying to see if he'll hang onto it for a few more years until our Fusion is paid off then I'd be able to get it. So we'll see.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 19, 2010, 11:35:30 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;310785
I'm with you on color, I really like the combo on my car. It's the factory colors but I think the black and grey looks great. I have a chance to buy an 04 Mustang Mach One, compition orange with only 15k miles on it. A friend of mine is selling it and would really like for me to have it since he knows I'll take great care of it and he knows how bad I'd love to have it. But the timing is all wrong. I'm still laid off, and Sharrie's going to be needing a newer dd, as well as planning on getting married this summer, so another toy just isn't going to work right now. I'm thinking of trying to see if he'll hang onto it for a few more years until our Fusion is paid off then I'd be able to get it. So we'll see.


I like the black and gray too... These Birds have perfect lines for the two-tone combo. I switch back and forth between liking the Grabber Colors and the subtle sophiticated look of darker colors...

One of my favorite colors is the Mustang's Alloy Gray. I seen a Shelby GT500 in the Ford showroom with that color some time ago and I wanted to die all over it!
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 20, 2010, 12:00:19 AM
Oh yeah, grey looks great on Mustangs! In 87 or 88 a local Ford dealer had a new Mustang Gt that was lite grey, it might have been called dove grey, I fell in love with it! I'd drool every time I went past it!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 20, 2010, 12:04:21 AM
I had a 1985 Camaro Z28 that was a beautiful gray with silver rockers and aero skirts... My obsessive compulsive ass wanted it painted Corvette red... So it happened...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 20, 2010, 12:09:08 AM
That's a nice combo on those as well. I hope you where happy with the red once it was done.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 20, 2010, 12:16:07 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;310794
That's a nice combo on those as well. I hope you where happy with the red once it was done.


I actually was... That shade of red was a new color for the Corvette and Camaro for 1987... And of course red Ferrari's were the dream cars back then thanks to Magnum PI and Miami Vice...

I went so far as to paint the front windshield pillar gloss black so that it would look like glass that matched the T-tops...

That was the only new car I ever had which I made it almost all the way through the length of the loan before trading it... It would have been paid for within six more months... What did I do? I bought a *fabulous* 1989 Grand Prix that I guarantee you has long since been recycled into something... The only thing I ever had to do with that car was replace the brake linings. That was a reliable car! The plastic interior is another story... Basically I went through one new dashboard and a center console top... The dash cracked under the AC vents because that dash pad vibrated enough over bumps to make it do so... And I put an elbow through the top surface of the console switch area and cracked it. I hated the black vinyl then but now I would die for it over cloth...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 20, 2010, 09:03:27 AM
I agree, it looked good! Did it have the 305 or the 350? I had a couple of friends that had the iroc z's, one was the 305 the other the 350. The 350 really hauled! I worked for a large dealership back in the day and we had gotten a firebird/ta GTA with the 350, I was taking it between dealerships and stepped on it a little to hard and got it sideways real quick! Man that thing would run! The wheels you had on your camaro look like the ones on the GTA. I always liked those cars but I've always been a ford man. I have owned a couple non ford cars but I've always gone back.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1 BADBIRD on February 20, 2010, 09:35:32 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;310762
Defenately! I think I mentioned before I liked your car when it was on ebay, and I saved some of the pics from the ad to my computer. That thing is sweet!


Thanks Man !:burnout:
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 20, 2010, 05:21:50 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;310805
I agree, it looked good! Did it have the 305 or the 350? I had a couple of friends that had the iroc z's, one was the 305 the other the 350. The 350 really hauled! I worked for a large dealership back in the day and we had gotten a firebird/ta GTA with the 350, I was taking it between dealerships and stepped on it a little to hard and got it sideways real quick! Man that thing would run! The wheels you had on your camaro look like the ones on the GTA. I always liked those cars but I've always been a ford man. I have owned a couple non ford cars but I've always gone back.


I always liked Fords since I was a tot. I was brought home in a 1966 Mustang when I was born. I did not become a GM guy until I was overwhelmed with the Ferrari-like styling of the then new for 1983 Camaro and Firebirds which had T-tops I coveted. The sleek fresh style blew me away back then and made the Fox Mustangs look like boxy old refrigerators with no shagy styling details. All through the 1980's up to 1994 I bought a series of F-body GM cars because that was the expressive styles that I liked at the time.

Back then I did not even care as much about our beloved Aero Birds and Cats when they were new. While I was happy that the Bird and Cat went from the boxy look to a sleek new aero look, it was controversial to me for awhile until many years later I got used to the then odd aero shapes. Also for me then the Birds and Cats seemed more like formal personal luxury cars so getting a bigger and more sedan-like car didn't appeal to me. I wanted to feel like I was crusing in something as sporty and expressive as a Ferrari!  However, Ford blood always ran through me. I always wanted Ford to replace the Fox Box Mustang with something sleek, more expressive with some recognizable Mustang styling cues thrown in. In late 1993 I saw Ford finally build a new Mustang that looked like a Mustang again mixed with a modern Ford theme, I just had to have it. I went and looked at one at the first public showing and I just had to have one. When the time was right, I traded my 1992 Firebird in off a 1994 Mustang Convertible in Laser Red that had to be driven off the showroom floor.

I have pretty much tried to stay with Fords ever since whether they were new or used. My only exception out of neccessity a few years ago was buying a used Nissan Sentra, Lumina & Cavalier because I needed ultra cheap transportation until I could get to a place I coudl afford nicer cars again. Now I just cannot see myself in anything but a Ford of some type. I just don't feel comfortable unless I have a Ford in my posession. I have always had a strong passion for all the legendary Fords of yesteryear. Until the classic looking 2005 Mustang came around I wondered if I would ever like a new Ford of any type again because all they did was build sedans, SUV's and trucks.

Back in 1997 when I bought a used 1985 Tbird out of desperation for needing a car, I wanted to find something that would kind of make me feel like the 1994 Mustang that I had to sacrifice to make ends meet. Little did I realize I would soon develop a passion for that old used Tbird which lead me to the loyalty that I feel towards Fords in general.

My 85 Camaro started as a regular Z28 with the standard 305 V8 non-HO. I liked the IROC-Z package very much but I got this car because I could better afford it over the higher optioned IROC-Z. I was just happy to have this new Camaro at the time. When the car was still gray with the silver rockers, I added the IROC-Z stripe package just above the  silver rockers. The stripe was red with black accent and it looked cool to me being a  Gray car with silver rockers and red IROC-Z perimeter stripes. I also added the red IROC-Z door decals. When I later painted the car red I just added the silver IROC-Z door decals and left off having any rocker stripes. Poser IROC-Z I know. I believe all the first IROC-Z's came with the 5.0 HO carb engine standard with Tuned Port Injection optional. In 1987 the 350 TPI became available.

I liked some of the Firebird specific styling touches so much that later I got a set of Enkei gold snowflake wheels and got rid of some of the all black look of the interior. I liked the Pontiac gray interior accents at the time over the all black Chevy theme, so I got a Firebird leather wheel and stuck a standard Camaro RH dash emblem over the Pontiac name embossment on the horn pad. I also swapped out the interchangable Firebird gray leather T-shift  and handbrake grip. To finish off the theme I painted the gauge cluster trim, HVAC-radio trim and top surfaces of the console the same Pontiac dark gray as the steering wheel shifter, and handbrake grip. I also two-toned the protruding dual left and right switch plate bezelson each side of the gauge cluster. The switch plate insets were light gray to match the kidney shaped horn switches on the steering wheel while the borders of the switch plates were painted the darker gray.
Title: Delete
Post by: capri1979 on February 20, 2010, 11:44:13 PM
Nice thread! New to the site and really enjoy what your doing.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 21, 2010, 08:40:09 PM
Quote from: capri1979;310911
Nice thread! New to the site and really enjoy what your doing.


Thanks man! Welcome to the site! Gotta love the Fox Capri's!

Now if I can get to the point I can start driving mine on the road safely! I have only driven it around the neighborhood but I am afraid to go anywhere too far.

I have two days off in a row for a change... Guess what I will be doing? Working on the Bird some more!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 21, 2010, 09:05:26 PM
I just found these pictures after digging in a box to scan some family photos... I forgot I had them. This shows off the taillamp modification detail. I liked the 87-88 taillamps so much that I took the lenses off this Bird, laid masking tape over the back side of the lens, used a protractor with an Xacto knife taped to it and cut out three circles each lens. I weeded the area surrounding the circles and painted the inside of the lens black then removed the masking circles after the paint dried. It turned out very good!

One other thing I tried with the taillamps before this was that I installed amber bulbs where the back-ups are and wired the turnsignals to flash there. I was actually able to retain the back-up light function by drilling a hole in the lens housing beside the back-up socket opening, then installing side marker bulb sockets and a #912 bright high mount stop lamp bulb. I changed it back to the original function after doing the circles in the taillamp lenses.

I am seriously thinking about something I could at some point with the Bird I have now. I could get a set of 1985-86 taillamps, remove the lenses and find a set of triple LED  lamps that would fit inside the housing and install a sequential flashing kit to operate them. I love sequential taillamps... I have them installed on my 08 Mustang.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 21, 2010, 10:14:25 PM
Those taillights did look good. That's how I did my headlight covers with the Bird emblem. I've always liked the sequential taillights myself. I have a kit on my bird too.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 22, 2010, 10:55:01 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;311015
Those taillights did look good. That's how I did my headlight covers with the Bird emblem. I've always liked the sequential taillights myself. I have a kit on my bird too.


Hey I just took a look at your pics! Nice job on the headlamp covers. I like that the light shows through them. Too bad they could not be covers that automatically retract. I always did like the dual birds in flight theme for placment of those emblems. It was most common on the taillamps but there were a few years that they were part of the headlamp doors, like 1967-69 and 1977-82.

I also like the placement of the quarter panel bird above the top of the rear seats where it dips.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on February 22, 2010, 11:06:09 PM
Thanks! I come up with some good ideas once in a while. lol!!! I still can't drive with them on at night. They still block to much light. It does look cool at night with them lit up, plus I have red neon under it for the evening shows. I think with the lights and stereo I have I think I might have to start checking into the 3g alt. I see everyone switching to. Although I haven't had any trouble with the original style yet. I also bought an auto pull down for the trunk off a lincoln that I want to figure out how to make work for it. I just think it would be a cool option.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 22, 2010, 11:14:57 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;311183
Thanks! I come up with some good ideas once in a while. lol!!! I still can't drive with them on at night. They still block to much light. It does look cool at night with them lit up, plus I have red neon under it for the evening shows. I think with the lights and stereo I have I think I might have to start checking into the 3g alt. I see everyone switching to. Although I haven't had any trouble with the original style yet. I also bought an auto pull down for the trunk off a lincoln that I want to figure out how to make work for it. I just think it would be a cool option.


I never thought of trying to adapt a trunk pull down to a Tbird... I would think start looking for a Mark VII first to see how close the parts might be adaptable.

At some point I am going to get bored with a completed restoration and it's just like me to start looking for things like that to do.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on February 22, 2010, 11:20:33 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;311015
Those taillights did look good. That's how I did my headlight covers with the Bird emblem. I've always liked the sequential taillights myself. I have a kit on my bird too.


Because the circles had to be added to a shorter lens than the 87-88 models, the tops and bottoms of the circles had to be cut off so each circle would be large enough in width to look right and well balanced in scale showing through the lens. Smaller exact circles would have just looked stupid. It was kinda cool how painting the black behind the lens lent this dark red look that contrasted with the clear red circle areas.

I really miss that old red Tbird...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 14, 2010, 12:59:20 AM
Not much progress going on lately. I am at a virtual standstill. I have test fitted the newer 87-88 interior door panels and they will work out great, but I cannot go with the darker gray just as they are so they will need to be recolored or reupholstered to look right. Love the newer style map pockets, more intergral armrest and better power door lock button location.

I decided to play with chopping my photo again to see how I will like a set of turbines on my car and I like them.

Of course I am still beating my head on whether to try a 87-88 LX nose or not...
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on March 14, 2010, 11:43:10 AM
Yeah, I had that same dilemma (The header conversion) but the fact that I would have to rewire the lights, and the other fact that I have more important things to take care of(Running gear),I decided to wait on the cosmetics.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 14, 2010, 08:39:03 PM
Quote from: jrad235;314147
Yeah, I had that same dilemma (The header conversion) but the fact that I would have to rewire the lights, and the other fact that I have more important things to take care of(Running gear),I decided to wait on the cosmetics.


I swear it is so love-hate with the Cougar header panel that I am using now. I like it but it just doesn't feel exactly right. When I look at pictures of the original swept back Tbird nose and any picture of a black 87-88 Tbird it makes me wanna change it. I really think the swept back nose is more in character with the car. When I think about this 84 Tbird I like to think about the 1960 model with the smooth nose, browed headlamps and the dual cowl dash design that ties in with the Mustang dash I am using. Wiring lamps is a big no issue for me if I wanna make a change.

I think I am not going to be satified until I get a 87-88 Tbird LX nose and just try it. It's the kind of thing I can always change back since it would be a minimal investment.

Today I did piddly stuff. I had to break down and secure the shifter indicator collar around the steering column with a hose clamp so it would stop slipping when you change the gears. It's the prefect fix if you have a broken collar. I secured the driver's side knee panel. I took the glove box apart and painted the rusty metal backing. I also painted the rusty rear console bracket. I installed the molded carpet panel to the inside of my trunklid and I secured the 87-88 style door panels and armrests.

I still need to move on with the mechanical work. I don't even no where to start, but I know I need to do brakes first so the  thing will stop!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 16, 2010, 11:43:44 PM
Seriously considering this look...

This is a quick chop with some crudeness but you get the idea...
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on March 17, 2010, 12:07:03 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;314548
Seriously considering this look...

This is a quick chop with some crudeness but you get the idea...


I'm stealing that pic for my computer wallpaper :D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 19, 2010, 12:36:20 AM
Another SVO EYE pic... I think I may be closing in on a look that just might work for me...
Title: Delete
Post by: gumby on March 19, 2010, 08:18:00 AM
i considered doing a SVO esque glass headlight conversion on my 87. the major hang up for me was building a decent looking set of bezels to complete the look. i dont have the patience to work with fiberglass, and have too many other things higher on my priority list at the moment.

i have read that the buckets from an early ranger will work for the conversion of the composite lensed SVOs back to glass headlights. might be sumthin to look into for this as well.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 19, 2010, 11:10:16 AM
Quote from: gumby;314908
i considered doing a SVO esque glass headlight conversion on my 87. the major hang up for me was building a decent looking set of bezels to complete the look. i dont have the patience to work with fiberglass, and have too many other things higher on my priority list at the moment.

i have read that the buckets from an early ranger will work for the conversion of the composite lensed SVOs back to glass headlights. might be sumthin to look into for this as well.


It's funny, back in the day I thought it was a step backwards for the SVO Mustang to have the sealed beam headlamps and was relieved when they were fixed to aero ones a year later. Now, the aero headlamps look cheesy to me, probably because they are too flat and don't provide any definition of detail so I feel the old recessed sealed beam look is more interesting.

I suppose the next day off I will be in search of an 87-88 Tbird LX nose to aquire so I can satisfy my notion. I really like how my crude photo chops look with that headlamp treatment. The important design elements I like being included for my car is the bird-like characture of the front end with the smoother nose, brows over the headlamp openings and even the bright simple eggcrate grille pattern which helps the car look wider than it is as opposed to the all smooth Turbo Coupe nose.


It's just becoming quite a game for me to figure out a compromise that works. I do feel a great deal of loyalty towards the four-eyed look with the parking lamps in the bumper, but I am not as crazy about the full height grille designs. The four-eyed Cougar header looks nice, but it's still too upright and stiff for the Bird's character, especially when using the Mustang dash inside. Real birds only have two eyes, not four so there is some logic to cling to.

I figure if I go with the SVO look, I can still use two of the rectangular halo hedlamps that I have installed now. They are all dual beam designs with the hi-beams disabled on the outer lamps only. I am still crazy about the amber halo lighting feature. The only thing I am not able to figure out yet is how finished looking the lamps will be installed into the 87-88 nose. It may be more interesting for it to remain unfinished looking like two headlamp covers that are rectracted with the headlamps exposed. Certainly that is not something most people with retractable headlamp doors desire to do, but in this context it just may work. My Bird is all black anyway and I do not think it I could pull it off as well if my Bird was a different color.


 It's still hell though having more than one look that I like for these cars. Sometimes it's mush easier to not have so many interchangable options. However, I liken it to how us guys like to change our facial hair because basically it is one of the only things besides the hair on our heads that we can change about our appearance.

Going with the 87-88 grille means that I will be changing all the Bird emblems to the newer style, which mean I will be able to put to use a couple of NOS quarter panel emblems I have has for many years. This will also mean changing the taillamps to the 85-86 style so the birds will match. With that in mind I will later be able to incorporate a sequential three element LED turn signal design installed inside the taillamp units.
Title: Delete
Post by: 88CougarGT on March 19, 2010, 11:32:31 AM
You will probably have to search pretty far and wide to find a sealed beam that will fill up the cavernous hole left by the old composite. 
I looked into doing something similar with the large hella lights that have replaceable bulbs in them.

Also, Hardbody Pathfinders have HUGE glass headlights. But mouing them might be a difficult venture.
-Z
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 19, 2010, 11:42:37 AM
Quote from: 88CougarGT;314925
You will probably have to search pretty far and wide to find a sealed beam that will fill up the cavernous hole left by the old composite. 
I looked into doing something similar with the large hella lights that have replaceable bulbs in them.

Also, Hardbody Pathfinders have HUGE glass headlights. But mouing them might be a difficult venture.
-Z


I am not as concerned about filling the entire hole... I'm liking the shadow box effect. Here's more visual aspects I photochopped quickly...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 19, 2010, 11:49:53 AM
Early Mustang SVO's for reference...
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on March 19, 2010, 01:28:08 PM
Do not like. :2c:
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on March 19, 2010, 02:51:44 PM
I don't know.....even on the SVO Stangs,it looked like they installed the wrong head lights.I think the flush mount look better,but,it has to be the way YOU want it.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 20, 2010, 12:50:10 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;314950
I don't know.....even on the SVO Stangs,it looked like they installed the wrong head lights.I think the flush mount look better,but,it has to be the way YOU want it.


Just for that comment Vinnie.... :flip::rollin:

J/K!!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 20, 2010, 03:01:57 AM
The early SVO would have looked much better with black painted headlamp retainer rings ...
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on March 20, 2010, 06:47:48 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;315062
Just for that comment Vinnie.... :flip::rollin:

J/K!!!

Other than the bada$$ pink teddy bear wheels....NO.

The wheels DO say "This car kicks so much A$$".LOL.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 20, 2010, 07:40:46 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;315076
Other than the bada$$ pink teddy bear wheels....NO.

The wheels DO say "This car kicks so much A$$".LOL.


LOL! And those wheels do come in 5-Lug deep dish as well!

It's a 7-Up Plus because sometimes the 8th cylinder fires when it feels like it...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 22, 2010, 09:47:09 PM
More SVO Eyes!

My mind is made up... I am going to go for this look. Seeing the beak in all black cinched it for me. Looking at the bare header panel, it should be a simple inclusion of rectangular headlamps... Now all I need is a nice warm day off to go search for the donor Bird...
Title: Delete
Post by: xan on March 23, 2010, 08:08:01 PM
Hi, ive been reading about your car and i like it alot :D
I got a quick question for you though, Would you have any idea if the MN-12 tbird dash is about the same size as the mustang?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 23, 2010, 11:28:20 PM
Quote from: xan;315490
Hi, ive been reading about your car and i like it alot :D
I got a quick question for you though, Would you have any idea if the MN-12 tbird dash is about the same size as the mustang?


Glad you are enjoying my project!

I would not consider using an MN-12 dash in anything but the platform cars they originally came in. Too many mismatches and dimensions are different.

The reason Fox platform dashes work best in Fox bodied cars is because the firewall height, width, lower windshield curvature and mounting points are all either identical or related.  The metal structures are shared designs throughout the entire range Fox platform Ford vehicles so you end up with consistancy in mount and fitment. This is why you see rodders and custom builders swapping older style dashes for newer designs in Fox platform vehicles.

The 1978-83 Fairmont/Zephyr dash is identical to the 1979-86 Mustang and Capri save for the compliment of guages and varied trim bezels and finishes. The 1981-82 Ford Granada and Cougar sedans borrowed the Fairmont/Zephyr body shell and alternately styled the front and rear ends leaving the midsection between the wheels intact. The dash of those cars was also identical to the Fairmont/Zephyr and Mustang/Capri with a special set of square faced gauges to distinguish those cars.

When the Thunderbird and Cougar XR7 was downsized for 1980-82 they took advantage of the Fox platform on a longer wheelbase. Just like the models mentioned before, they used the same firewall structure and front passenger compartment sheetmetal componants. However a different dash was designed for these Birds and Cats using the existing Fox platform mounting points.

The next car to get the Fox platform was the 1982-86 Lincoln Continental. This got yet another new dash design loosley based on the 1980-82 Bird and Cat design.

For 1983, the Birds and Cats were restyled with new exterior sheetmetal and rested on a shorter wheelbase, yet retained the identical firewall and front passenger compartment structure as all the other Fox based cars. As a cost saving measure, the 1983-84 Bird and Cat dash was actually a modified version of the 1980-82 Bird/Cat design and the 1982-86 Lincoln Continental design which used the twin vinyl knee pads.

1983-86 restyled the 1981-82 Granada and Cougar sedans into the LTD and Marquis to replace them. With the restyling came the recycled use of the 1980-82 Bird/Cat dash virtually intact because they simply dropped in and effectively was able to replace the old Fairmont-based dash. 

For 1984-92, the Lincoln Mark VII was based on a long wheelbase variation of the 1983 Bird/Cat body. That car got it's own unique dashboard design.

1985-88 brought a totally restyled dash to the Bird and Cat which showcased the styling inside to match what they originally wanted to do if there was no budget restraint for the 1983-84 models.

For 1987-1993, the Mustang got a major new dash design. Probably the most popular dash swap I have seen is retrofitting this Mustang dash design to earlier Fox Mustangs, Capris, Fairmonts, Zephyrs, Granadas and Cougar sedans.

It's safe to say all of the cars listed above will interchange dashes with each other with either little or relatively moderate modifications if you get the gauges, wiring and HVAC duct and air housing system componants matched up.

With the design of the Mustang for 1994-2003, the Fox platform was heavily redesigned with either new or modified structure and renamed the SN97 platform. There were only a couple of carry over parts from the original Fox design to the modified SN97 platform. With this redesign, the windshield was raked back more and the dash cowl made deeper. The hard points of the firewall, the door hinge pillar mounting structure, the front floor pan and the transmission tunnel are dimensionally the same as the earlier Fox platform cars.

This is why I was able to do moderate modifications to the 1994-2003 Mustang dash to fit it into my 1984 Bird. The major thing I had to do was cut about 3" off the 1994-2003 Mustang dash shell where it meets the base of the windshield while leaving a slit so that the defroster vents will function.

There is the issue of the SN97 metal dash support frame needing some cutting and welding modifications at all the mounting points to adapt it to mount to the earlier Fox mounting hole locations and to have the right set back against the firewall so the dash does not protrude too far into the passenger compartment.

The route I took was much different than usual. I cut the dash shell 3" as mentioned before then mounted it against the original 1984 Tbird metal dash support frame. It took some adjustments, drilling and adapting here and there to make it work but I was able to mount the entire Mustang dash into the Bird using all of the original mounting points AND have the Mustang console match up perfectly with the bottom center of the dash with no gaps.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on March 24, 2010, 08:45:37 PM
Excellent summary on the Fox platform and dashes! :burnout:
Title: Aeronose!!!
Post by: Watchdevil on March 24, 2010, 08:50:28 PM
I went to the salvage yard today and plucked a 87-88 header panel with inner and outer parking lamps. The bumper cover from that car was in bad shape and it was the only one to be found :(
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 24, 2010, 08:54:00 PM
More Aeronose pics...
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on March 24, 2010, 08:54:53 PM
I like that better than the cougar nose
Title: Aeronose
Post by: Watchdevil on March 24, 2010, 08:58:26 PM
Three more shots
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 24, 2010, 09:09:20 PM
Quote from: hypostang;315728
I like that better than the cougar nose


Yeah I am liking it a lot better already. I got this on the real cheap today for $20.

Too bad using that aero header leaves a big gap between it and the original bumper or I would just leave the old bumper cover there. Now I gotta find the rest of the lamps and a bumper cover.

 I have also decided that I am going with the factory style aero headlamps. I test fitted one of my sealed beam lamps and there is just not enough depth on the outer ends to set it back in where it would look right. Making it work is going to be a pain with heavy modifications to the back of the header panel to sink it. So I think I will just go for the simpler route.

I painted the header a semi-flat black just so it does not look so much like an eye-sore until I eventually get the exterior refinishing done.

Looks like all the Bird emblems are going to have to be changed.

So, it looks like I am going to need:

A front bumper cover
LH & RH headlamps
LH inner parking lamp
LH outer parking lamp

And to match the birds:

LH & RH 85-86 taillamps
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on March 24, 2010, 09:14:38 PM
My local yard has an 84 elan that has 85 taillights
 
 They charge around $15 each side I am going back Friday I can grab them if you want
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 24, 2010, 09:18:35 PM
Quote from: hypostang;315732
My local yard has an 84 elan that has 85 taillights
 
 They charge around $15 each side I am going back Friday I can grab them if you want


Grab them if they are in decent shape... No cracks or bad scratches that cannot be polished out.

Thanks!
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on March 24, 2010, 09:21:16 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;315735
Grab them if they are in decent shape... No cracks or bad scratches that cannot be polished out.

Thanks!


I'll check em out and grab em if they are good
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on March 25, 2010, 09:21:07 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;315544
...... and varied trim bezels and finishes.


Looks like the Full Size 81 Crown Vic shared some parts too.

Nice clean looking dash.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 25, 2010, 10:49:13 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;315897
Looks like the Full Size 81 Crown Vic shared some parts too.

Nice clean looking dash.


While the design looks somewhat similar to early 80's Tbird/Cougar dashes, the dashes were totally unique designs that accommodated the much wider cabin. The only parts that were shared were standardized parts which you would find in numerous Ford models such as switches, s, radios, sometimes vents, steering wheels, steering column, door hardware, shifters, levers, pedals... just to name a few things.

When I was referring to the shared Fox dashboards between the Fairmont/Zephyr, Mustang/Capri and Granada/Cougar sedans,  the base dash assembly with the shell and top pad were identical for all these cars except for the different arrays and shapes of the gauges and trim plate finishes.  All these cars HVAC systems and controls as well.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on March 28, 2010, 01:45:33 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;315920
While the design looks somewhat similar to early 80's Tbird/Cougar dashes, the dashes were totally unique designs that accommodated the much wider cabin. The only parts that were shared were standardized parts which you would find in numerous Ford models such as switches, s, radios, sometimes vents, steering wheels, steering column, door hardware, shifters, levers, pedals... just to name a few things.

When I was referring to the shared Fox dashboards between the Fairmont/Zephyr, Mustang/Capri and Granada/Cougar sedans,  the base dash assembly with the shell and top pad were identical for all these cars except for the different arrays and shapes of the gauges and trim plate finishes.  All these cars HVAC systems and controls as well.


Yes, I understood what you were saying.  I was just surprised to see so many of the parts shared between the Fox cars and the full size cars.

I was probably surprised since I never paid too much attention to the full size cars.... until now! :D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 28, 2010, 01:56:49 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;316238
Yes, I understood what you were saying.  I was just surprised to see so many of the parts shared between the Fox cars and the full size cars.

I was probably surprised since I never paid too much attention to the full size cars.... until now! :D


Oh yeah, if you look back to the generations of Fords before 1978, they also shared a lot of standardized interior parts between models. I think the most noticable was always steering columns and wheels, and the iconic ignition switch design.
Title: Delete
Post by: ZondaC12 on March 28, 2010, 02:03:53 PM
Ya know what I like? I look at a 67 mustang at a show...saaaame opera lights in the interior back sail panels as my cougar has. Exact same pieces. And then all of the power seat switches and what not that clearly are late 60s and 70s pieces blacked out.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 28, 2010, 02:49:11 PM
Quote from: ZondaC12;316240
Ya know what I like? I look at a 67 mustang at a show...saaaame opera lights in the interior back sail panels as my cougar has. Exact same pieces. And then all of the power seat switches and what not that clearly are late 60s and 70s pieces blacked out.


Yeah it's interesting to see how long Ford kept using some standard parts from way back. Another notable one is the big chrome dome lamp with the twin map lights.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 29, 2010, 01:18:39 AM
Kinda neat to have a tie to the past using the aero header panel...


(http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=22627&stc=1&d=1269478307)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on March 31, 2010, 11:50:30 PM
Well, I bought a 1995 Mustang instrument cluster. I will like the fit and look better than the digital cluster. I gotta get it wired up and operating. I have the wiring all figured out okay. I gotta get a VSS, oil pressure sender and temp sender. Let's hope I can get the speedo, tach and fuel gauge to function with this car. If everything turns out okay, I have some cool stuff planned to buy for this cluster since these Mustang clusters have great accessories to dress them up!
Title: Delete
Post by: 86caprirs on April 02, 2010, 11:14:58 AM
Whatchdevil.

I love what you did with the SN-95 dash. I agree with Vinnie. The delete plate needs a smaller tbird badge. I did some searching and Ford has new tbird emblems from the newer tbirds from 2002 that are just as wide but alot skinner.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted. I am thinking this would look good in mt 88 tbird.
Title: Delete
Post by: ZondaC12 on April 02, 2010, 11:18:39 AM
Haha good observation with the '58-'60 "square bird"!!! I love those....
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 02, 2010, 11:30:42 PM
Quote from: ZondaC12;316833
Haha good observation with the '58-'60 "square bird"!!! I love those....


Ford designers intentionally picked up cues from the 1960 Tbird. So they picked up the browed lines over the headlamps, smoother bullet-like nose section, thick grille bars and triple round lenses incorporated into the taillamps. The explaination that was given for taillamp design was that taillamps for the past too years were becoming too plain and simplified. They wanted to bring back detail to this element to make them more interesting.

Of course our Aerobirds always retained a critical element of classic birds... The thick C-pillar with the bird emblems. It was all about taking the classic cues and incorporating them into an aero look that contrasts with the boxiness of classic birds.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 02, 2010, 11:34:05 PM
Quote from: 86caprirs;316832
Whatchdevil.

I love what you did with the SN-95 dash. I agree with Vinnie. The delete plate needs a smaller tbird badge. I did some searching and Ford has new tbird emblems from the newer tbirds from 2002 that are just as wide but alot skinner.

Keep up the good work and keep us posted. I am thinking this would look good in mt 88 tbird.


I can't let go of the bird on my dash! I like it! It will be changed out for the newer bird emblem soon because the aeronose has that style bird and there is no older style bird that will fit. So I have two NOS quarter panel birds I have had since 1989 that have never been used.

I am also changing the taillamps to 85-86 units so the birds will match. I am seriously thinking of doing the same trick to my taillamp lenses that I did on my old 1985 Tbird I used to have. That is seperating the lenses from the housings and making three circles for light to shine through while the areas outside of the circles will be black. This will show up well against the black exterior paint. I even have an idea to incorporate sequential LED turn signal lamps.

I will also be trying a three spoke 85-86 Mustang steering wheel soon which sould look more in line with the theme of the Mustang dash and I have a couple of the newer style bird emblems that I salvaged from the wheel covers of the 1989 Tbird I used to have. I will likely use one of those on the centerpad. Plus I realize the three spoke wheel will mirror the use of three spokes on many classic Tbirds of the past.

I got the parts I need to convert the instrument cluster to work. All of $24 of brand new parts, a VSS, oil pressure and temp sender. I don't even know if my 84 has a VSS regardless of the speedo cable being there or not. I guess I will find out when I look under it. But it dawned on me I should have got the Mustang VSS because the Tbird one I got has the provision for the speedo cable to install on top of it while the Mustang design is the same exact part with a plug set into the hole that the cable would normally go in. No worries if I change my mind and go with the Mustang one instead. They both pulse the same rate. If I find out my Bird already has the VSS then I have to figure out if the green/white wire that is unused in my instrument cluster is connected to a VSS or not. That wire is there originally for the tripminder option despite the buttstuffog and digital speedos running off a cable.

It will be interesting to see if the tach will work or not. I discovered after some research that the tach is the same for V6 and V8 Mustangs but the V8 uses two grounds off the printed circuit while the V6 uses one. The V6 printed circuit has an intentional interrupt in one of the runs so that the extra ground for the V8 is not used.

I bought sending units for the Mustang hoping they will read as they should with the Mustang gauges. I double checked the threads and they are the same as the ones that go in the engine block of the 84 Birds.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 03, 2010, 12:01:25 AM
Quote from: ZondaC12;316833
Haha good observation with the '58-'60 "square bird"!!! I love those....


Oh yeah and it seems the Cougars have always carried over some consistant themes, such as the waterfall grille and wide taillamps. They even marked the taillamps with vertical reflectors inside the lens to pick up on the bright vertical bar theme of the classic Cougars. The one thing though that the 1983 brought to the Cougar was the distinct quarter window design. First impression I ever got was that it looked like a Gremlin with a trunk. When the Cougar was redone for 1987, the new window profiles were refined so much that they are sensational looking and still very unique. Even the back window hints back to the Mercury Breezway roof designs of the Early 60's. When the 1989 Cougar came out, it lost a crucial element of personality changing the quarter window design to something boring and too upright and square looking like typical GM cookie-cutter designs of the day.
Title: Aeronose Progression and Mustang Instrument Cluster Installed
Post by: Watchdevil on April 07, 2010, 12:04:44 AM
I scored well at the Pull-A-Part on Monday! The added a lone 88 Tbird several days ago and I snagged the front bumper cover and bumper reinforcement. I also snagged a nice set of headlamps off that same car that are clear as a bell and need no polishing! I am still missing a LH corner turn/parking lamp.

I wired the innner and outer parkinglamps so that they both flash for turn signal operation, just because I could. I am debating adding amber city lamps to the inside of the headlamp housings.

I bought a used 1995 Mustang V6 instrument cluster off eBay and installed it today. Lot's of wire crimping but everything worked out great so far. I have most of the connections made including the speedometer and it works. I looked under my Bird today and it does in fact have the speed sensor already installed in the tail of the transmission. I tapped into the VSS wire and the speedo works perfectly along with the odometer.

 It was also very easy to change the mileage of the used cluster to actual mileage of the vehicle. I do think the fuel gauge is still reading opposite of what it should, because it is showing 1/4 tank and I just filled it a few weeks ago so it is really 3/4 tank full. 

Before I installed the cluster, I refinished the gauge needles in that Thunderbird Blue that I like. These needles carry light through them so they show up at night, so it was a matter of sing the orange glow paint off the back of the needles and repainting the backsides of them Thunderbird Blue. The paint shows through from the back of what is essentially a clear needle, and when the cluster is lit up they glow.

I also painted the center caps at the pivot of the needles from black to silver. Looks more interesting than all black.

I ran out of time to finish some of the wiring and put back all the trim I removed. I still need to make the tachometer connection and run leads for the oil pressure and coolant temperature. I bought new Mustang specific sending units for those two gauges so they will read accurately. For the tachometer operation I had to connect the extra ground for V8 operation that was unconnected for V6 operation.

I am debating changing the cluster illumnation bulbs to blue LED's.
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on April 07, 2010, 11:35:04 AM
That looks significantly better than the old gauges you had in there.  And the small touches to the needles really are a nice effect.  I think it would be cool if you could get the inner and outer parking lamps to alternate flashing when the turn signal was activated. 

It's nice to see you making so much progress, especially considering you're doing it all on your own!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 08, 2010, 02:22:59 PM
Quote from: jkirchman;317354
That looks significantly better than the old gauges you had in there.  And the small touches to the needles really are a nice effect.  I think it would be cool if you could get the inner and outer parking lamps to alternate flashing when the turn signal was activated. 

It's nice to see you making so much progress, especially considering you're doing it all on your own!


This conversion to the Mustang instrument cluster was way easier than I expected to be. The two most critical wiring connections that I had the most concern about, the speedo and tach were very simple. The car already had the VSS sensor, so I tapped into the green/white wire where it comes in at the side of the floor tunnel. The tach was an easy one wire tap into the negative side of the ignition coil. Both the speedo and tach work perfectly after pulling the needles from the gauges and turning them so that they are at true 0 when the engine is not running.


Now I have to change out the temp and oil senders and make connections there. The only two issues I have is the fuel guage reads 1/4 full when it is 3/4 full. The other issue is that the odometer stopped working after putting 6 tenths of a mile on it.

I got a three spoke Mustang wheel from an 85-86 model and tried it but I am not feeling it. I think I will go back to the four spoke wheel I was using.

I completed the front end with the left hand corner turn signal lamp.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on April 08, 2010, 07:16:11 PM
I had an issue with a Lincoln reading wrong like that (fuel reading) and ended up having to swap the sending unit .There are buttstuffog and digital senders.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 08, 2010, 11:35:50 PM
Quote from: vinnietbird;317513
I had an issue with a Lincoln reading wrong like that (fuel reading) and ended up having to swap the sending unit .There are buttstuffog and digital senders.


Yeah I have been reading up and it seems I need to have a digital sending unit for sure. I am dreading the task of dropping the tank and the thought I may need to do the same to get a donor sending unit. However my fuel pump is very noisy I think and I it will need to be replaced eventually just for peace of mind, not to mention the hoses that allegedly disinigrate inside the tank. That is two pumps on mine internal and external. Looks like I may need to return to the salvage yard for a sending unit though because I will not be satified with this gauge install until everything operates perfectly. I am surprised I have had no real complications. The only thing bugging me right now is figuring out why the odometer stop registering after 6 tenths of a mile I put on it during a test run in my neighborhood. I need to pull the cluster and see if a gear or something in the odometer lost conact while the little motor is turning. I hope that is all it is and not a bad motor. The speedo and tach work perfectly.

I really need to focus on getting the car in mechanical shape. I am at the point I am really done with the cosmetic mods until it becomes sound enough to be ready for finishing touches.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on April 09, 2010, 12:01:26 AM
Dropping the tank is nothing....two bolts,a floor jack and a small piece of wood between the jack and tank.easy stuff.easier than swapping dashes.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 09, 2010, 06:20:05 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;317537
Dropping the tank is nothing....two bolts,a floor jack and a small piece of wood between the jack and tank.easy stuff.easier than swapping dashes.


I guess I am dreading dropping the tank because I changed the fuel pump unit in my Mom's Cavalier several months ago and it took quite some time.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on April 09, 2010, 08:54:37 AM
Our cars are super easy.Lift the rear,spray a little penetrating oil up on the bolts,and while that's setting up,put the floor jack and a piece of wood under the middle of the take.Loosen the two bolts to the straps,and the little 8mm bolt that holds the fill tube to the frame and then lower the tank SLOWLY,and help the fill tube from the tank seal (al little spray lube helps the seal).Just get the tank low enough to pull the sender.Make sure you get the  off the top of the tank so small rocks and dirt don't fall into the tank.Install the new sender and up you go.In a hurry,I've swapped the pump in less than 20 minutes.....thanks to like new bolts everywhere on the car.LOL.The tank strap bolts are long winded little fellows.Spray them from the top of the bolt primarily,not the head side so much.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 09, 2010, 09:51:56 AM
Thanks Vinnie! This helps ease my mind when it comes time to actually do this, especially if I have to pull one in a salvage yard to get the donor sender...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 11, 2010, 04:12:39 PM
Well I found the culprit for the failed odometer in the Mustang cluster I am using. It seems later model Fords (including Mustangs, Crown Vics, etc.) with the mechanical odometers are famous for these main odometer gears decinigrating because of the poor rubber like plastic material they use. I pulled my main gear out and four teeth were gone. I took my fingernail and the rest of the teeth came right off with no effort. So I did some research and discovered it is a common problem and that there is a place in Newport News, VA that manufactures and sells higher quality replacement gears for $25 bucks. After researching prices all over the internet, I was a little shocked that odometer gears are so expensive. One gear costs almost much as an entire used cluster. But at least I do not have to buy a new cluster.

Hopefully I will get the gear tomorrow priority mail so I can get the cluster back together.

Now I am off to get the oil and temp gauges working.

More pictures later this evening...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 11, 2010, 10:14:43 PM
Picture updates...

I have the cluster trim completely installed in this picture. I am trying out the 85-86 three-spoke standard Mustang wheel. I have mixed feelings about it.

I installed the new oil and temp sender units today and made my wiring connections and presto... fully operable gauges! So now I need to replace the odometer gear and eventually change out the fuel sending unit so the fuel gauge will read correctly.
Title: Delete
Post by: T-BirdX3 on April 11, 2010, 10:21:46 PM
I love that dash!!!!!! Keep up the good work!!
Title: Completed Front End
Post by: Watchdevil on April 11, 2010, 10:23:12 PM
All the lights are installed now...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on April 11, 2010, 10:24:51 PM
Looks great! I think the mustang wheel matches the curves of the dash.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 12, 2010, 02:09:38 AM
I am glad I went with the cleaner LX bumper cover.
Title: Delete
Post by: hcor on April 12, 2010, 06:30:38 AM
looks great!
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on April 12, 2010, 06:54:39 AM
That steering wheel works a lot better with that dash design.Sometimes certain old parts don't mix well (visually) with older parts.Great work so far.Impressive.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on April 12, 2010, 07:41:43 AM
Looking good , I agree with the other guys the stang steering wheel works better with that dash :D
Title: Small mod to the headlamps...
Post by: Watchdevil on April 12, 2010, 09:54:25 PM
Added amber illumination to the headlamp housings...
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on April 13, 2010, 04:31:01 PM
Cool,
You going to sell the 4eye lights?
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on April 13, 2010, 09:39:51 PM
Oh, I like that!
Title: Delete
Post by: 88turbo on April 13, 2010, 09:58:47 PM
looks good buddy :)  interesting look on an early aerobird
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 14, 2010, 01:28:23 AM
Quote from: Romeo2k;318077
Cool,
You going to sell the 4eye lights?


Yes I would like to sell the 4-eyed lights. They are still in perfect new condition. Remember they have the halo illumination and you can change the bulb colors with caps which I still have, blue, green, & red.  What may be cool also is using 194 base LED bulbs in place of the incadescent. However, I would need to get two lamp sockets to fit the housing of one lamp. Each lamp uses two 194 bulbs and I used two of the sockets to illuminated the factory aero headlights I am using. It should not be a problem to find something to use in it's place. If I have to, I will take the sockets out of the first set of quad crystal clear headlamps I bought which I still have. The halo lamps have barely been used and I really liked them on the 4-eyed nose, but as most of you know I can change styling direction in the flash of an eye.

I am really happy with the aero nose as it ties in to the bullet nose look of classic Birds with the browed headlamp shape and eggcrate grille bars. It has a much more unmistakeable character of being a Thunderbird than it did before.

Anyway, PM me if you are interested in purchasing the halo headlamps. I will sell the headlamp buckets along with them since I had to enlarge the openings in the back to make them fit. They are cut a little crudely with tin snips but I painted them and of course the irregularities in the cuts are completely hidden when installed.

Also, the first set of crystal clear quad lamps are up for grabs if anyone wants them, whatever I can get for them plus shipping. Each one has a single city lamp illumination but they are not made specific left and right. All the city lamps are positioned facing left.  These are harder to fit into the headlamp buckets and bind a little when putting the rectangular retaining rings over the front. The headlamp buckets do require opening them up in the back.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 14, 2010, 01:41:40 AM
Quote from: hypostang;317898
Looking good , I agree with the other guys the stang steering wheel works better with that dash :D


I lived with the three spoke wheel for a couple of days and just was not feeling it. Maybe because it is too vinyl, low end looking like it belongs more in an Escort or a Ranger. I would probably feel better about if it were actually an SVO or GT wheel which are both wrapped in leather.

I am thinking about trying a 1989-93 Tbird wheel but I think it will just place the wheel uncomfortably too close to my chest. Plus I have been looking at pictures of the mounting hole and I don't believe the flat side of the hole will match up in the right plave on the steerinng shaft. 89-93 Tbird wheels are in abundance and pretty cheap so I may get one and try it for the heck of it. It will at least have the more current bird design on it to match the exterior birds.

The only other possibility is the actual Mustang style wheel that was used with this 95 dash design. They make replacement airbag covers for the wheel and RH side of the dash that look just like originals but they have no Ford or Mustang logos on them. However they are rather expensive. I wonder though if I can get the 1994-97 Tbird wheel and remove the airbag but retain the airbag cover undisturbed. That may work. Sounds like another day in the salvage yard for investigating by face to face examination.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 14, 2010, 01:55:24 AM
Yesterday I worked on the 85-86 taillamps I bought from Dansbird. I took them apart and painted the bulb housings with a fresh coat of that "chrome" paint. Makes a big difference. Then I did some initial polishing of the outside of the lenses. The look much better but need some more work.

I have been debating some design details for these lamps. I thought of going with the three circles like the 87-88 models have which also ties into the three circles on the back of the 1960 models. However, I think I am over circles within taillamps since it is a too common sight on so many cars these days.

I am definitely not as much of a fan of the 85-86 large clear backup lamps on each side of the license plate. I am thinking of visually reducing the actual size of them by painting a thick black border around them thus yielding a better looking full width lamp look.

I still have the potential to install sequential flashing LED lamps inside the lamp housing. I may have found something that will work.
Title: Taillamps
Post by: Watchdevil on April 14, 2010, 10:45:11 AM
Here's the updated look...
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on April 14, 2010, 06:54:38 PM
Lookin' Good
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 15, 2010, 12:04:03 AM
I got my new odometer gear today and installed it. The entire Mustang gauge cluster works perfectly now! I think I am going to replace all the dash lighting with blue LED's.

So now I even have sort of a tie in with the 2002-05 Thunderbird with the gauge cluster design. If I decide to go with Mustang white face gauge overlays that are available it will look even more the part.

I am thinking of doing the trim bezel around the cluster painted silver to pick up on the same aluminum look the 1960 model has, which means I will need to do something to match the passenger airbag cover delete to mirror the gauge cluster bezel. If I can find a silvery vinyl that might work. Ah... I just found silver vinyl and plastic trim dye which would ensure a match.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on April 15, 2010, 01:09:31 AM
Wow, I am actually kind of surprised that you switched to those tail lights. I would have thought the originals, or even the 87-88's would be better than those, mainly due to the large backup lamps. So...When do we get to see it running?!  :D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 15, 2010, 07:11:26 PM
Quote from: jrad235;318333
Wow, I am actually kind of surprised that you switched to those tail lights. I would have thought the originals, or even the 87-88's would be better than those, mainly due to the large backup lamps. So...When do we get to see it running?!  :D


Trust me if I could switch the 87-88 taillamps into it I would but the entire rear end was restyled and nothing is interchangable.

 The main reason I switched the lamps is to match the bird emblems front and back to the same design. There is no 83-84 style bird that has the extreme peak to match the beaked design of the 87-88 nose. I also had an incomplete crack in the LH taillamp of the original design.

I have a plan for the large back up lamps. They used to not bother me when I had my 85 Tbird but I don't like it as much now. My plan is to reduce the clear part of the lens by painting a border around it to reduce it to the size of the small squares of the original lenses. Right now I am tossing around a few ideas to make the lamps look more unique and I have not completely ruled out the triple circle effect like the 87-88's have. I did that to my 85 Tbird and when the inner lens it painted black it shows through a stealth looking dark red background while yeilding normal bright red for the circles.

I also had the idea to paint the inner lens so that the shape of the bird emblem is enlarged around the actual chrome bird emblems allowing the red light to show through. I have backed off that idea for fear of it being too cheezy.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 17, 2010, 12:36:20 AM
Quote from: jrad235;318333
Wow, I am actually kind of surprised that you switched to those tail lights. I would have thought the originals, or even the 87-88's would be better than those, mainly due to the large backup lamps. So...When do we get to see it running?!  :D



I yeah I forgot to mention, it does run... Ever since I put a fresh tank of gas all the way full in it I never have fuel starvation problems anymore to where it wont start.

Now it does have issues when running. One issue is that it revs too high and it has something to do with the automatic choke system. I always have to remove the air cleaner housing and knock the choke off by hand, then it returns to the normal 800 rpm idle.

Also, the fuel mixture is running rich and after a while of running the engine the catalyic converter overheats and puts off white smoke which seems to be coming from the seams. When I drive it like this it feels like it is clogged. Sometimes I can drive it and it does just fine. However, after about five minutes of driving it acts up.

Also, the transmission is slipping at times. I have yet to change the fluid and filter which I will probably do. If the transmission is not salvagable I think I will just find a 5-speed manual to install in it and have more fun, especially since it is not nor will ever be daily driver. I may just do it anyway. The only drawback I have with that is having to relocate my console switches where I have installed them inside the Mustang shifter plate. I could deal with that though for the sweet manual shifter. Just think, I could install a Mustang Bullitt shift  if I want.

I have no idea yet what is going to be needed to get the engine running reliably so I can make a trip over five miles. It may be okay as it is with just a few gasket and seal replacements. My step mother never dogged this car but she probably neglected a lot of maintenance like oil leaks and such. All I can say is that there is no oil coming into the air cleaner housing and puddling like it used to do on my 1985 Tbird. I do see oil leaks coming from various places and a coolant leak which could be coming from the water pump. It definitely needs a new radiator as I can see scaling looking down inside from the filler neck. But the coolant is still green, not muddy colored. Also, currently I am not getting smoke from the exhaust like I was when I first got the car and put Seafoam in. I forgot that Seafoam makes a car smoke a lot as it is cleaning off carbons. Now that I have a full tank of gas I don't seem to have the smoke issue like I did before.

Brakes, suspension... all needs a complete overhaul. However this car should ride and handle decent when it is done. I am suprised already how lateral it handles considering everything is aged and all worn out. I would like to put on a dual exhaust with nice sounding lers. I also want to investigate using a different steering rack with a lesser turn ratio.

I really thought that I would not miss not having a tachometer in this car but since I adpated the Mustang cluster with the full gauges, I really like seeing the RPMs and how the engine is idling.

Anyway, now is the time I will be working on mechanicals. The cosmetic stuff is done for now until it's running reliably and is safe to drive. Once that is done the paint work will be done and the interior will be completed with the new headliner and carpeting. After all those things above are done, I will advance to good looking wheels and sticky wider tires, recovering the seats with leather then just stay on a process of perfecting the car with every detail any way I can.

I am also considering going away from the gray interior trim and paint and dye the majority in black with perhaps some white contrast on the lower dash and console, and door panels. I would also do black seats with white inserts, just like the 1960 Tbird in my signature picture. Carpeting is defnitely going to go all black.
Title: Taillamp mod proposals!
Post by: Watchdevil on April 17, 2010, 01:34:02 AM
What do you think of these proposals?
Title: Delete
Post by: cougarman on April 17, 2010, 07:20:22 AM
I kinda like C and F, the slotted backup likes cool.:D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 17, 2010, 10:17:24 AM
I am leaning towards C!
Title: Delete
Post by: 88turbo on April 17, 2010, 10:39:41 AM
I kind of like F but with the dark areas body color.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on April 17, 2010, 11:32:47 AM
I vote "C" :D
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on April 17, 2010, 11:39:38 AM
C isn't too bad, you could even lengthen the slots since all you need is SOMETHING to break up that white panel.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on April 17, 2010, 04:23:23 PM
I like c.
Title: Delete
Post by: Quietleaf on April 17, 2010, 05:46:35 PM
My dad has a 2005 T-bird and the white-face gauges with the chrome trim definitely set off the car. The blue needles are illuminated at night. The numbers light up yellow-white, standard incandescent color. They might look better if they lit up the same blue as the needles, but I'm not sure.
Title: Delete
Post by: hcor on April 17, 2010, 08:44:30 PM
I vote for C
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 18, 2010, 12:13:27 AM
Quote from: Quietleaf;318656
My dad has a 2005 T-bird and the white-face gauges with the chrome trim definitely set off the car. The blue needles are illuminated at night. The numbers light up yellow-white, standard incandescent color. They might look better if they lit up the same blue as the needles, but I'm not sure.


They would look better lit up blue but I bet that 05 Tbird cluster is using LED's... I am not sure.

I painted my needles Thunderbird blue and they have a nice glow. The gauge faces on mine light up green-blue because of the incadescent lighting but I will be installing blue LED's in them soon. I already tested it out with one I have and they look nice, just light the blue MyColor choice I use all the time on my Mustang.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 18, 2010, 12:43:14 AM
Thanks for the input from you all about the taillamps!

I am going to go with "C". I like the full width look like classic Tbirds used and painting the backup lamps so they will look smaller will accomplish the look I want. Plus they will be the same style that 89-97 Tbirds used.

I have already done the triple round theme on my 85 and I just like the full red look much better these days. Plus this set of lamps lights up much fuller than the 83-84 ones, especially since I have a new coat of chrome paint on the inside of the housings. The red looks nicer against the black. Not so much a fan of too much black everywhere. I gotta have some bling.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 18, 2010, 12:51:21 AM
And the winner is...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 19, 2010, 10:25:57 PM
So I was gonna work on the back-up lamp lens modification today but I ended up replacing a cracked shower basin in the master bath.

I did however decided to go with a Mustang airbag cover that was split. Simple fix using foil tape to hold it back together. That foil tape sticks like hell! The Mustang airbag cover fits nicer and retains a Ford OEM look with the curvature made into it. I plan to cover that Mustang airbag cover in vinyl because there is no way to get rid of the Mustang script unless I sand the entire cover until it no longer has surface grain.

Speaking of foil tape I forgot to mention that 1985-86 Tbird taillamps will fit into the 83-84 with no modification to the rear body panel. The only thing I had to do was put foil tape over the oblong center hole where the back-up lamp was located in the center of the original taillamps. This is just to keep water from getting in the trunk. On 85-86 models the center hole is smaller and round. All the mounting studs go through the rear body panel in the same exact places the original ones did.

Look closely at the picture of the 1960 Tbird interior in my signature photo collage... I have a plan to paint the instrument cluster bezel and airbag cover silver to lend the aluminum trim look that the 1960 Tbird has.

I am going all over the place in my mind about interior color combinations. I am afraid to paint the console right now because I may change the lower dash to black. I still have the gray seats, but I would so like a predominately black interior with contrasting white seat and door trim panel inserts.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 20, 2010, 12:04:41 AM
Seat Ideas...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 20, 2010, 12:07:28 AM
Oh yeah and I knew that I had seen a three spoke wheel in a Thunderbird somewhere that reminded me of the 85-86 Mustang one but couldn't remember where. Then I stumbled accross the 2000Thunderbird Concept Show Car which had a different wheel than the Lincoln LS one that was used for production.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on April 20, 2010, 12:08:38 AM
I dont like the white piping personaly
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 20, 2010, 12:35:04 AM
I wanna get these Mustang pedals covers eventually!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 20, 2010, 12:42:27 AM
This might be nice if I decide to change the transmission to a 5-speed manual later...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 20, 2010, 12:51:05 AM
Quote from: hypostang;318942
I dont like the white piping personaly


I think you are right... the piping is distracting and I have been looking though past Tbird interior pictures of many model years and have not seen piping done like that.

Ya know if I go with a primarily black interior that will make my life easier because I won't have to worry about matching a bunch of grays. I have figured out the transition. I can do all interior trim black for now except leave the seats in the original gray upholstry. Then later, recover the seats in black and white like I want, then I will also have to change the belts to black.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 21, 2010, 01:13:52 AM
I think I have made a definite decision to go with a black interior with white seat and door panel inserts. I could even do a partial white wrap with a black leather steering wheel cover. I like where my mind is going with this and how things are coming into play! Away with the gray!

Uhm... now I need to pull my head out of my ass and focus on the mechanical stuff... seriously...

I love driving this car, especially viewing the aspect from the driver's seat with that Mustang dash forms entertaining my eye. Something none of the orginal equipment Fox Tbird dashes have managed to ever do for me, only the classic Tbirds from 1958-66.

I liked the Mustang dash ever since I first seen it in 1994. Glad I made it work!
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on April 21, 2010, 01:21:59 AM
Heheh, I think it's hilarious how you are turning the inside of your T-bird into a mustang, and I'm turning the chassis/drive train of mine into a mustang!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 21, 2010, 02:30:18 AM
Quote from: jrad235;319098
Heheh, I think it's hilarious how you are turning the inside of your T-bird into a mustang, and I'm turning the chassis/drive train of mine into a mustang!


It is kinda funny.. but technically most of the chassis and drivetrain is shared with the Mustang in one form or another. However, I do need my engine upgraded from non-HO to HO.. Someday ya know!
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on April 21, 2010, 09:26:46 AM
Ok, modern mustangs, both of us. Most of my drivetrain is out of cars newer than 1999.
Title: Back-up lamp mod completed!
Post by: Watchdevil on April 25, 2010, 09:31:12 PM
Here it is... The back-up lamp mod. I went the simple route and just made a simple smaller square... Duplicolor Ford Tourador Red ended up being a really good match for the taillamp lenses.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 25, 2010, 09:32:10 PM
One more shot...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 27, 2010, 06:45:51 PM
Well the most exciting thing I did today bewteen the rain downpours was polish out the dull front corner turnsignal lamps today. They look way better! I am still in disbelief that I found two headlamps in the salvage yard in very good condition for a real low price. They need absolutely no polishing.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on April 30, 2010, 01:38:37 AM
Did some piddly stuff when I got home tonight. I ordered a bunch of blue LED's for the instrument panel bulbs. I installed them and I was real unhappy with the uneven lighting and hot spots of these bulbs, so I took them out and put plain clear 194 bulbs back in. I had blue 194 bulbs in them before, but the clear bulbs light up best and I essentially get the same color through the gauge faces. The blue was not working very well with the needles and the red areas on the gauge faces.

 I am going to be using blue bulbs for my "old school" incadescent ambient lighting. It seems more period appropriate for when the car was made rather than LED's.  I am going to rewire the underdash courtesy lamps to the dash light circuit and see if I can find some bayonet base bulbs to fit there.

I bought one of those slip on steering wheel covers in black and gray "leather". It sure beefs up the steering wheel to an appropriate thickness. And yes I switched back to my four spoke wheel with the big square trim with the bird emblem. It was an impulse buy on the color though and I forgot that I was going to an all black interior with white seat and door panel inserts later. Anyway, I will likely get an all black steering wheel cover later when it ever becomes time to recover the seats and just lace it at the split for a finished look like it is no longer slip-on looking.
Title: Black leather steering wheel cover
Post by: Watchdevil on May 04, 2010, 01:35:17 AM
I decided to try a black leather steering wheel cover. Sure beefs it up thicker than the one on my Mustang. I plan to stich the seams with white thread like I did for my Mustang.

I also completed the old school ambient lighting by adding sidemarker sockets secured under the dash with blue 194 bulbs installed and wired to the dash illumination circuit. I tried to take pictures but the green-blue light will not show on camera. Funny thing too, I bought blue bulbs to go in the mirror map lights and they got way too hot and started burning the black foam inside the light housing. Seems those bulbs are way too bright compared to the originals that came out of the housing. However, the blue-green light looked good for a few minutes. It got so hot the blue coating was burning off! I have a plan B... When I install my overhead console which also has map lights, they will use 194 bulbs which do not burn so brightly and get too hot.
Title: Another taillamp mod...
Post by: Watchdevil on May 04, 2010, 10:10:59 PM
Painted the trim at the lower edge of the taillamps to match the red lenses...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 07, 2010, 03:53:29 AM
Discovered there are two shades of Ford Toureador Red... I did notice the red was a different darker color when I sprayed this time. Found a small can the right shade at work today and I will respray the lower mouldings under the taillamps so it matches the back-up lamp masking I did earlier.

I also had a solution for the colored lighting for the map lights. I completely forgot I had assorted colored gel caps that came with my rectangular halo headlamps. These are designed to go over tubular dome lamp bulbs in the first place. So it's a done deal and looks kinda neat all lit up when the door opens.

The car is running like shiznit... seems to idle fine but when I get on it like I wanna pass or go to the floor full throttle it looses power and does not want to go... It's good for easy cruising at less than 40 mph down the neighborhood roads. I am not going to be happy until the engine runs right. I can deal with a lot of things like suspension, brakes and chassis restoration but this engine and tranny has me overwhelmed.. simply because I do not have the experience and facilities to rebuild an engine. Somehow this has got to get done. Superficial repairs are easy for me. I so admire all of you that have engine, body and paint skills!
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on May 07, 2010, 09:23:40 AM
I call spark! Also possibly your injectors(CFI) are clogged, more likely spark though. Could you list any parts you have thrown at it?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 08, 2010, 04:20:54 AM
Quote from: jrad235;320998
I call spark! Also possibly your injectors(CFI) are clogged, more likely spark though. Could you list any parts you have thrown at it?


I have new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, TFI module (relocated), coolant temp sensor. Possibly the timing is off because when I did the TFI removal it was a must to rotate the distibutor to get the scews out to replace the module. However I think it's more than timing. Too many things going on. I think the converters are clogged too. This car is going to have to go to a shop that can help me get it back in good mechanical shape. This is gonna cost $$$... So the progress will be slow for a while. I will just work on what I can confidently do  for myself. I wish I had a Thunderbuddy close by that could help me with all this. Even my brother in law could help if his work schedule was not so gruelsome. It's a disadvantage growing up in a family of hairdressers and computer technicians.... And no motorheads!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 08, 2010, 04:27:00 AM
I think I may try to get this 89-91 steering wheel and see how it fits. I always liked the design and I think it fits the character of the Mustang dash more. It has the correct Bird emblem style plus I always liked the spoke shapes and arrangements. I had this wheel in my 1989. Hopefully this wheel will not be uncomfortably close to my chest. This will be a keeper if I like it, and if it fits on the column like I hope it will.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on May 08, 2010, 11:29:18 AM
Hey, that is a pretty sharp looking steering wheel!

I would try some seafoam in the tank. I've never used it, but I hear it works wonders. Timing could easily cause your problems if you aren't absolutely positive you put the distributor back in the same spot. When I got my new distributor, I had to back off the vacuum advance alot to get the car to rev off idle, because it would just bog/stumble and die. Do you have vacuum advance?

it, I only have one converter, so I've never had to deal with a clogged one, why do you think it's a problem?
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on May 08, 2010, 12:02:50 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;321094
I think I may try to get this 89-91 steering wheel and see how it fits. I always liked the design and I think it fits the character of the Mustang dash more. It has the correct Bird emblem style plus I always liked the spoke shapes and arrangements. I had this wheel in my 1989. Hopefully this wheel will not be uncomfortably close to my chest. This will be a keeper if I like it, and if it fits on the column like I hope it will.


It will not fit on your column sadly . 

I tried one on my Mark VII  (the VII and the bird take the same Grant adapter number)

I have a really nice genuine leather grant wheel on my bird now I actually used the same style on my mark VII
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 08, 2010, 11:57:19 PM
Quote from: jrad235;321118
Hey, that is a pretty sharp looking steering wheel!

I would try some seafoam in the tank. I've never used it, but I hear it works wonders. Timing could easily cause your problems if you aren't absolutely positive you put the distributor back in the same spot. When I got my new distributor, I had to back off the vacuum advance alot to get the car to rev off idle, because it would just bog/stumble and die. Do you have vacuum advance?

it, I only have one converter, so I've never had to deal with a clogged one, why do you think it's a problem?


I have used the Seafoam... It does work wonders! It helped me get the car started after it had been sitting for 10 years.

No vacuum advance on my car. It's TBI with a TFI...

I think the converters are bad simply because they overheat and at times they smoke from the seams. They may be clogged.

Good news is that ever since I ran Seafoam completely through the system and later filled the tank with fresh fuel, there is no longer any smoke coming from the tailpipe although the exhaust still smells rich.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 09, 2010, 12:00:28 AM
Quote from: hypostang;321121
It will not fit on your column sadly . 

I tried one on my Mark VII  (the VII and the bird take the same Grant adapter number)

I have a really nice genuine leather grant wheel on my bird now I actually used the same style on my mark VII


Lemme get this straight... Are you saying the 1989-92 Tbird wheel will not install on the 84 steering column? The way I read this is that you tried a 89-92 Tbird wheel on your Mark VII steering column.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on May 09, 2010, 01:25:59 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;321177
Lemme get this straight... Are you saying the 1989-92 Tbird wheel will not install on the 84 steering column? The way I read this is that you tried a 89-92 Tbird wheel on your Mark VII steering column.


That is exactly what I am saying :D
The  steering column is the same from 84- up on all the foxs
The 79 to 83 used a splined shaft then they switched to a shaft with 2 flats .
 My wheel in my Mark VII was in really poor shape so I tried and found out that the 89 up bird wheel will not fit on the fox shaft unfortunately
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 09, 2010, 01:38:38 AM
Quote from: hypostang;321181
That is exactly what I am saying :D
The  steering column is the same from 84- up on all the foxs
The 79 to 83 used a splined shaft then they switched to a shaft with 2 flats .
 My wheel in my Mark VII was in really poor shape so I tried and found out that the 89 up bird wheel will not fit on the fox shaft unfortunately


Thanks for clarifying! I had been looking at pics on eBay of the 89-93 Tbird wheels to see some clarity showing the center hole of the wheel and I was already aware of the possibility that the holes are different for MN-12 cars. My obsessive compulsive nature of course will look at one anyway and see if I can frabricate a way to make it fit.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on May 09, 2010, 01:43:25 AM
I hope you can , I think it would look great with your dash
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on May 09, 2010, 01:14:01 PM
Ok, well, then cut the  things out since you'll have to replace them anyways. Do all four(?) of them smoke and overheat?

Side note: Mine smokes sometimes, but it's because the transmission leaks fluid onto the exterior of it when driving, do any of your converters have a trail of black goo on them?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 10, 2010, 12:25:23 AM
Quote from: jrad235;321208
Ok, well, then cut the  things out since you'll have to replace them anyways. Do all four(?) of them smoke and overheat?

Side note: Mine smokes sometimes, but it's because the transmission leaks fluid onto the exterior of it when driving, do any of your converters have a trail of black goo on them?


You know I thought of that too... I recently put some Lucas Stop Leak in the engine and come to think of it I have not noticed the burning from the converters like I did before... It could have been oil or fluid dripping down on the converter and burning off. I'll have to pay closer attention...

Still trying to figure out why it has no power. I can rev it out of gear and there is no stall or hesitation but once it is under a load with the transmission engage it has no power when I stomp on it to accelerate or pass... it just stumbles like it is suffocated... then it simply does not run right after that and acts like it constantly wants to stall. Sometimes it does and has to be restarted.
Title: Another steering wheel...
Post by: Watchdevil on May 16, 2010, 12:03:41 AM
Well I got the 1989-93 Tbird wheel to fit. All it took was filing down the end of the steering column shaft flat in two places at 5 and 11o'clock positions as opposed to the original 3 and 9.

As I expected it sits closer to my chest like a wheel that has been telescoped out. I didn't seem to mind this with the 1985 Tbird I had with the Tempo wheel installed. It's just a longer reach from the wheel to the turn signal lever.  I'll try this for a while and see if it sticks with me but I do like the center pad design. And my horn functions with the pad again as opposed to the 1980-84 style wheel with the center emblem cap that has no horn function.

I also picked up another set of 89-93 steering column covers to save for the future in case I decide to go with a manual transmission to replace the auto. I want to do turn signal lever and switch as well but it requires that there be a wiper control unit to operate with the switches. Using the 89-93 turn signal switch and lever will bring the lever where it needs to be.

Another thing I decided to pick up was a roof console from an Explorer. I found one in great shape and still attached to the roof. This will of course have the temp and compass readings and I did remember to get the temp sensor from the bumper area of that Explorer. I just have two wires to figure out what they are for and I will be able to make it function. Gonna look that up now.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on May 16, 2010, 12:12:58 AM
Is that an airbag wheel?
Title: Delete
Post by: T-BirdX3 on May 16, 2010, 12:22:15 AM
He has an airbag dash, why not an airbag wheel?! :D

P.S. Looks Great!!!! Can't wait to see the finished product!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 16, 2010, 12:42:44 AM
Quote from: hypostang;322017
Is that an airbag wheel?


No 1989-93 Thunderbirds had no airbag but the wheel had a huge pad that would suggest one. 1994 was the first year the Tbird had airbags and it used the same steering wheel style as the Mustang that year along with many other Ford products but with emblem specific covers for each vehicle model.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 16, 2010, 12:44:21 AM
Quote from: T-BirdX3;322020
He has an airbag dash, why not an airbag wheel?! :D

P.S. Looks Great!!!! Can't wait to see the finished product!


Don't ask me why but I still have an emotional attachment to the 1983 four spoke wheel I had in it. :rollin:

Good thing is I can always change my mind. It's like changing underware!
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on May 16, 2010, 02:40:16 AM
That looks pretty  good.
Title: Delete
Post by: T-BirdX3 on May 16, 2010, 05:08:11 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;322024
Don't ask me why but I still have an emotional attachment to the 1983 four spoke wheel I had in it. :rollin:

Good thing is I can always change my mind. It's like changing underware!


Hehe. You change your mind more than most women! :D Just kidding............sorta... ;)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 16, 2010, 10:34:49 PM
Quote from: T-BirdX3;322049
Hehe. You change your mind more than most women! :D Just kidding............sorta... ;)


I know right! But hey parts are cheap and I usually keep trying things until it is just right.

The rain spoiled a lot of activities I wanted to do today. However I did polish up the lenses on the roof console. Looks pretty darn good. I wanted to wire it up today but it's just been pouring rain.
Title: Delete
Post by: rodsterh on May 18, 2010, 11:22:31 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;322024
Don't ask me why but I still have an emotional attachment to the 1983 four spoke wheel I had in it. :rollin:



One of the better looking wheels IMHO...:hick:
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 24, 2010, 05:05:20 PM
I am working on the interior paint today. That Duplicolor black bumper paint is perfect for painting the console and the lower dash! I am impressed!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 24, 2010, 05:06:04 PM
Quote from: rodsterh;322328
One of the better looking wheels IMHO...:hick:


I think so... It's tempting me to switch back...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on May 30, 2010, 12:48:25 AM
I installed a later model Ford combination turn signal/dimmer/wiper switch. I have it all functioning except for the wiper switch. I need to harvest a wiper control module from later generation Fords for this conversion as the newer Ford wiper switches just control electronic relays in the wiper control module. However I like the newer style combination switch much better than the original type dual lever switch setup.

I got my power antenna to work with the 3-wire Mustang convertible top switch in the console by using two relays to switch polarity for up and down motor functions.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 04, 2010, 10:32:14 AM
I had been trying to adapt a later model Ford single stalk turn signal and wiper switch. I had no problem with the turnsignal and high beam functions working but I have struggled to no end with the wiring and function of the newer wiper switch and even procured a wiper control module from a 1989 Tbird but neither were compatible

My next step is to check out a 1986 or so Taurus multifuntion switch.The wiper motor is identical to the Fox cars and has the same connector and wiring setup than newer Fords. The 86 Taurus has a totally different wiper switch connection pin setup compared to newer Fords with the similar style switches. Hopefully it will switch the way I need to and I will have the single stalk and steering column covered all nice and tidy using the 1989-93 steering column covers without extra holes. I had actually bought extra sets of steering column covers for later if I decide to move the shifter to the floor.

I have been waiting for it to stop raining so much so I can do some trim painting. The dash and console is all black now. The next thing to do is paint the gauge cluster and centerstack trim silver to suggest the theme of the 1960 Tbird dash in my signature picture. I gotta find a solution for the passenger airbag cover so I will be able to match it to the silver I will be using and have the paint or dye adhere.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 05, 2010, 02:55:13 AM
So I got a hold of a Haynes manual for a 1986-97 Taurus and confirmed that the wiring for the wiper motor is identical to my Tbird. The wiper motor is the same and the wiring is the same. So I have to try to find a 1986-87 Taurus/Sable that has a multi-funtion switch. The switch wiring is the same as mine as well... so this should work.
Title: Delete
Post by: cougarman on June 05, 2010, 07:57:16 AM
I have one from a '92 Taurus, if it will work. Yours for the shipping.:D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 09, 2010, 05:57:00 AM
Quote from: cougarman;324288
I have one from a '92 Taurus, if it will work. Yours for the shipping.:D


Thanks for the offer but it has to be 1986-87 Taurus and Sable. It's the only design with the correct switch wiring that will work in older two stalk steering columns.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 09, 2010, 06:10:24 AM
I changed the starter to a newer type high torque Ford starter. Works perfectly and the starter run-on condition is gone.

I found a 1988 Taurus multi-function switch to replace the old dual stalk column switches. 1986-88 Taurus & Sable is the only cars that have the correct wiper switching in a single multi-function switch. I installed it and it's works perfectly. My only issue is that it has aged so bad that the end of the lever has turned chalky. I gotta find a nicer replacement when I have more time.

While I was at the Pull-A-Part today, I got me a Mark VII auto floor shifter. These shifters mount flush to the tranny tunnel without making a hole. I have it half installed. Tomorrow when I can see better I will work on the cable.

I got the floor shifter from a pre-airbag Mark VII. It uses a regular Fox steering column and I was able to snag the ignition lock cable that will install in place of the column shift rod. I have to finish that project tomorrow.

With the auto shifter being relocated, I also have to relocate all the center console switches.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 12, 2010, 03:59:45 AM
Quote from: rodsterh;322328
One of the better looking wheels IMHO...:hick:


Man I changed it back! :rollin:

The newer style Tbird wheel was just sitting too close to me and it was just plain uncomfortable. As soon as I got the 83 four spoke wheel back on it felt much better. Now I have a horn button issue. I switched out the original dual stalk switches for a single stalk switch from a Taurus and I no longer have a horn button unless I change the center trim to a Crown Vic horn pad.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 12, 2010, 04:17:05 AM
I completed my auto floor shifter from the Mark VII. It took some time to figure out how to do the linkage because I was not going to go to the trouble to flip the lever on the tranny around. I also did not have the cable mounting support bracket that goes on the transmission. My solution was to take the long shift rod that goes forward on column shift cars and flip it so that it goes to the rear of the transmission. Then I ran the cable pointing rearward and aligned it so it met the long shift rod. I mounted the cable with a hose clamp and L bracket to a hole already made into the rear transmission crossmember. I now have a perfectly working floor shifter. It looks really nice with the  classic Ford style chrome bent shaft, nice leather covered palm sized handle. Looks a million times better than any factory Tbird floor shifter. Now I gotta find a shift boot for a SN-95 Mustang.

I also removed the column shift shaft and that was much easier to remove than I expected. I replaced the shaft with the cable mechanism that keeps the ignition lock cylinder from locking the steering wheel unless it is in park.

I am really liking getting that column shifter off so I no longer have the lever rubbing against the dash. It's nice having whole steering column trim shrouds on with no holes cut in it for the shift lever and dual stalk switches.

The 1986-88 Taurus/Sable multifinction switch is the one to use for a single stalk conversion.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 13, 2010, 03:25:40 AM
Did everyone loose interest in my thread? LOL!

I will have some new pictures tomorrow.. maybe that will liven things up...
Title: Delete
Post by: cougarman on June 13, 2010, 07:24:54 AM
Nope, still here watching and reading. :D
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on June 13, 2010, 07:26:12 AM
I'm still here keeping updated. You keep comming up with some cool ideas.
Title: Delete
Post by: hcor on June 13, 2010, 09:00:07 AM
Still here as well waiting for new pics of these awesome mods!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 14, 2010, 12:02:35 AM
Quote from: hcor;325236
Still here as well waiting for new pics of these awesome mods!


I made a lot of progress today with some finishing work on the dash. I was hoping to take some daylight pics today with everything in place but I had a setback painting the center stack trim. The  finish started crackling so I had to wait for it to dry and sand it down completely. I think it had something to do with the black factory paint that was applied originally to the trim.

Anyway, the dash and console is now all black. Gauge cluster trim, shifter trim, dash vents and front face of the center dashtop clock are all silver now. I gotta respray the center stack trim on wednesday and hope I get a good finish this time. I also have to work on the passenger airbag cover which will be silver to match the gauge cluster trim.

I do have a peek of what is now completed... Better pics later.

Excuse the nasty looking combination turn signal/dimmer/wiper switch. It's just there until I find another one from a 86-88 Taurus that is in better condition. This was the only one I could find, but it works. It fit the old Fox style steering column perfectly. I used the 1989-93 Tbird column shroud trim. If anyone likes the beefier later model squared off steering column trim then this is the way to go. I experimented with the original Tbird dash long ago and the square shroud fits perfectly... I really like having the hazard switch on top of the column now.
Title: Floor shifter
Post by: Watchdevil on June 14, 2010, 12:46:42 AM
Here is the surface mount Mark VII automatic floor shifter which mounts directly to the tunnel without cutting a huge hole. Just needed a small hole for the cable to pass through.

The shifter trim now has the inset painted silver. iI ordered the SN-95 Mustang manual shift boot which will finish this off.
Title: Delete
Post by: Haystack on June 14, 2010, 02:00:19 AM
I like it. I wish I was willing do experiment with my previous cars as much as you have.
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on June 14, 2010, 12:40:41 PM
Nice!  The only thing that seems 'off' to me, and immediately caught my eye in that first picture, is the dash vent being silver.  For some reason, when I see it, I want it to blend in with the dash instead of standing out like it does.  Maybe it takes away from the aesthetic appeal of the instrument bezel or something.  Just my :2c:
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on June 14, 2010, 04:38:22 PM
Very nice work. I really admire what you're doing.I can't wait til Wednesday to be able to spend some quality time with the Sport.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on June 14, 2010, 04:52:21 PM
You are defenately going to have a unique ride when you're done! I like it!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 15, 2010, 12:14:48 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;325395
Very nice work. I really admire what you're doing.I can't wait til Wednesday to be able to spend some quality time with the Sport.


Hey Vinnie I ended up changing the tilt lever to the style that the SN-95 Mustangs use that matches the end of the turn signal stalk. Consistancy in details...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 15, 2010, 12:31:29 AM
Quote from: jkirchman;325373
Nice!  The only thing that seems 'off' to me, and immediately caught my eye in that first picture, is the dash vent being silver.  For some reason, when I see it, I want it to blend in with the dash instead of standing out like it does.  Maybe it takes away from the aesthetic appeal of the instrument bezel or something.  Just my :2c:


I thought about it but since I am going for the look of the 1958-63 Tbirds I wanted the vents to sort of replcate the use of chrome ones on cars equipped with AC. Look at the picture of the turquoise interior and you can see that the optional AC vents are chrome and this vent bezel in combination with the radio looks remarkably like the one the SN-95 Mustang used. The old Tbirds did not have left and right side vents on the ends of the dash. However as a measure of consistancy I wanted all the vents to be silver.

Did anyone notice yet that I painted my HVAC s silver as well?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 15, 2010, 12:36:23 AM
Oh yeah and some of you will be happy to know the big bird emblem is not going back on the passenger airbag cover. I will eventually get an appropriate Tbird name script and locate it where the Mustang script resides.

Eventually I am going to include a hood scoop for the hood. I want something that replicates the look of the ones on the classic Birds since they all had one.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 15, 2010, 12:53:32 AM
Chrome gauge rings are coming soon which have a presidence in 2005 Tbirds.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 15, 2010, 04:09:24 PM
Center stack is reinstalled along with the dashtop clock. I was also able to save the ugly Taurus multifinction switch with a fresh coat of black paint.

I experimented with using this silver paint on a s piece of vinyl. I cannot believe it sticks and flexes! So that is what I will use for the airbag cover.
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on June 15, 2010, 05:43:24 PM
I can't get over how good that looks!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Quietleaf on June 15, 2010, 11:25:22 PM
That is amazingly gorgeous. I never would have thought a Mustang dash could ever look THAT good. It almost looks like it "fits" in the lineage of my dad's '05 T-Bird.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on June 16, 2010, 12:00:56 AM
"Consistency in details"....that's right.I try to practice that as well.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 17, 2010, 12:53:06 AM
Quote from: Quietleaf;325607
That is amazingly gorgeous. I never would have thought a Mustang dash could ever look THAT good. It almost looks like it "fits" in the lineage of my dad's '05 T-Bird.


Ya know that's the whole idea I had about this dash swap and as this progressed I have a little bit of heritage for a number of past Tbirds.

So for linked heritage I got the 1958-63 dual cowl dash pad look with bright trim, the related styling of the 1994-97 interiors, a little bit of the 2002-05 Tbird... Oh yeah and a little 1980-83 Tbird with the steering wheel... LOL!

And i'll say again, the dual cowl dash originated in the 1958 Tbird and the look was borrowed for the first Mustangs. With the rounded off shapes of the SN-95 Mustang dash it fits the character of the exterior being rounded off as well.

I got the passenger "airbag cover" done...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 17, 2010, 01:02:08 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;325612
"Consistency in details"....that's right.I try to practice that as well.


I am good until it comes to the issue of the steering wheel... LOL! I don't have many choices though because the wheel needs to be shallow for the right reach. I tried the 89-93 wheel and it just sits to close not to mention with it "telescoped out" the sight lines around the wheel are not correct, that is the top of the wheel sits too high when positioned parallell with the steering column. If I tilt it down the angle of that wheel feels wrong like it is too low. The wheel was made for the lower slung MN12 models where the column is more level than angled like the Fox cars.

I need a horn button now... I did away with the press in stalk mounted horn switch. I'd hate to use a Crown Vic all vinyl horn pad. I don't wanna mount an out of place horn button either. I'll work it out like I always do...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 17, 2010, 02:31:52 AM
Passenger air bag cover now in place...
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on June 17, 2010, 09:10:14 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;325760
I am good until it comes to the issue of the steering wheel... LOL! I don't have many choices though because the wheel needs to be shallow for the right reach. I tried the 89-93 wheel and it just sits to close not to mention with it "telescoped out" the sight lines around the wheel are not correct, that is the top of the wheel sits too high when positioned parallell with the steering column. If I tilt it down the angle of that wheel feels wrong like it is too low. The wheel was made for the lower slung MN12 models where the column is more level than angled like the Fox cars.

I need a horn button now... I did away with the press in stalk mounted horn switch. I'd hate to use a Crown Vic all vinyl horn pad. I don't wanna mount an out of place horn button either. I'll work it out like I always do...


I think the wheel you have, wrapped in leather, should work very well. As for the horn button, I would think that, with a bit of work, you could make the center cap on that wheel into a horn button.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 18, 2010, 10:51:42 AM
Daylight pics and shifter boot now installed...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 18, 2010, 10:53:27 AM
Close up of salvaged Taurus wiper/turn/dimmer switch...
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on June 18, 2010, 09:37:05 PM
That's beautiful work so far !!! I do wonder....how well does the cup holder work at that angle/Either way,I love it.
Title: Delete
Post by: daminc on June 18, 2010, 10:56:42 PM
They should work at any angle... they have a bottom bar that falls down when they open.
Title: Delete
Post by: daminc on June 18, 2010, 10:57:23 PM
Great job on the project...
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 19, 2010, 01:16:14 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;325918
That's beautiful work so far !!! I do wonder....how well does the cup holder work at that angle/Either way,I love it.



Thanks everyone for the kudos!

Actually the indash cupholder is less than perfect for this dash, especially now that I have the shifter installed.

First thing, the dash openings are stepped in trim panel. I had to modify the cupholder so it would slide out further to clear the radio by making new stops. Secondly, with the new shifter in place it only functions with the lever moved into gear.

No worries though the Mustang console has a large slide out cupholder that you pull up and forward from inside the armrest compartment, then the armrest lid goes back down over when it is extended forward.

I am going to work on the door panels soon. I am going to strip off the gray vinyl and lower carpeting and recover in black vinyl. Right now I am trying to tackle the issue of window, door and mirror switches. The easiest it to go back to the early joysticks for the mirrors and simply mount it in place of the cigarette lighter under the ashtray lid. I am going to mount the driver's power seat switch in place of the ashtray insert. The power window switches are likely going to end up where the Mustang fog lamp switch goes. I have already relocated the power antenna switch right behind that slot by using a convertible top switch and two standard relays

The airbag cover is not working out. I thought I had thrown out the flat delete cover that I was using previously but I found it tonight where I had some parts stored so I will be pulling the silver vinyl from the Mustang cover and putting it on the delete cover. It should look much better. I am not as crazy about the Mustang cover being coved in anyway.
Title: Delete
Post by: Cougar8775 on June 19, 2010, 11:17:24 PM
how did you get the taurus switch to work? plug n play? Plus what years did you get it off of? or would work? This would be a good mod to clean up that area. I know if im making a left hand turn and letting off the clutch i can turn the signal off with my knee.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 20, 2010, 01:44:58 AM
Quote from: Cougar8775;325982
how did you get the taurus switch to work? plug n play? Plus what years did you get it off of? or would work? This would be a good mod to clean up that area. I know if im making a left hand turn and letting off the clutch i can turn the signal off with my knee.


1986-88 Taurus and Sable... And it works because it uses the same wiper motor as Fox cars. The wiper control module wires are exacty the same as well for it to function properly. It is not plug and play as the connectors are different, but if you harvest one be sure to get all three the connectors (turnsignal/hazard, wiper and high beam dimmer connectors) with a good bit of wire attached. You have to splice and connect to the Taurus connectors. These wiper switches mount to the same exact mounting screw holes as the Fox steering column and the turn signal cancel works flawlessly. I like having the hazard switch on top. All you need is 89-93 Tbird/Cougar steering coulumn trim to have it seemlessly covered up... Or you can try any pre-airbag 87-up Fox Mustang column cover if you want to retain the round shape.

However before I took the original Tbird dash out I test fitted the squared 89-93 Tbird steering column trim and it worked fine. It's a matter if you like the squared look or wanna keep the rounded look.

New part BWD S14202
(http://shop.oreillyauto.com/product_images/img/bwd/s14202-1.jpg)

1987-90 Mustang column shroud trim should work with our Foxbirds and cats... However I just noticed the multifunction switch does not have the hazard switch in the top of the steering column shroud, but rather as a seperate switch on the right instrument cluster switch pod. You could likely use a Taurus switch and cut a small square hole in the top of the Mustang shroud to allow the hazard switch to poke through.

(http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/data/500/b6_3.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 20, 2010, 03:18:23 AM
Quote from: ProTouring442;325787
I think the wheel you have, wrapped in leather, should work very well. As for the horn button, I would think that, with a bit of work, you could make the center cap on that wheel into a horn button.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


Man I took your advice and made it work! On that vinyl Crown Vic hornpad I had laying around I took the vinyl cover off and glued the Tbird trim right onto the plastic horn pad base. I had to trim away some of the vinyl inside of the rectangular opening inside of the steering wheel center so it would sit flush and what do you know??? It works!
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on June 20, 2010, 09:13:21 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;325992
Man I took your advice and made it work! On that vinyl Crown Vic hornpad I had laying around I took the vinyl cover off and glued the Tbird trim right onto the plastic horn pad base. I had to trim away some of the vinyl inside of the rectagular opening inside of the steering wheel center so it would sit flush and what do you know??? It works!


Sweet!  Now where are the pictures??? :D

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 21, 2010, 12:31:17 AM
Quote from: ProTouring442;325995
Sweet!  Now where are the pictures??? :D

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


It looks the same! :rollin:

It's just now you can press on the trim and it blows the horn! The trick was figuring out how to make the Tbird trim float and push inwards just enough to switch the horn while sitting flush and secure.

One thing I did have to do was break off the two locator pins on the back of the Tbird trim. This was to allow the trim to sit flush on the front of the Crown Vic horn pad base. I used clear silicone to bond the Tbird trim to the large copper contact plate on the face of the CV horn pad base. The silicone dried well overnight and I had to do some extra securing because the outer copper contact plate floats on top of a "swiss cheese" slice of foam to seperate the inner contact plate which has raised nubs. This foam does not make the Tbird trim secure as it is floppy without taking extra securing measures. I simply took a couple of strips of foil tape and secured part of it to the back of the Tbird trim on both top and bottom and carefully wrapped it around to the back of the CV horn pad base without compressing it too much as to avoid closing the contacts with pressure. This way the Tbird trim is not floppy and does not float or pull away from the center of the wheel.

Why do I go to so much trouble when there are a number of wheels I could choose from that I do not have to modify at all to make it fully functional???
Title: Delete
Post by: ProTouring442 on June 21, 2010, 07:36:36 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;326101
I know why do I go to so much trouble when there are a number of wheels I could choose from that I do not have to modify at all to make it fully functional???


You do it because you want to build the car in a certain way, yet have it look factory. Believe me, I know haw difficult this can be! Here are a few pictures of a car my father and I built with that same goal in mind. It took us 4 years, but I think it turned out very well!

(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/7273096.jpg)

(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/7274053.jpg)

(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/7274056.jpg)

Shiny Side Up!
Bill
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 21, 2010, 09:54:38 AM
Quote from: ProTouring442;326112
You do it because you want to build the car in a certain way, yet have it look factory. Believe me, I know haw difficult this can be! Here are a few pictures of a car my father and I built with that same goal in mind. It took us 4 years, but I think it turned out very well!

(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/7273096.jpg)

(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/7274053.jpg)

(http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/7274056.jpg)

Shiny Side Up!
Bill


Oh yes very nice!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 23, 2010, 03:12:15 AM
Today I redid the passenger airbag cover using the flat one I had before. Hopefully this will hold up without the vinyl bubbling. If this fails then eventually I will shell out major bucks for a factory-style airbag delete cover from CJ Pony Parts which is void of Mustang nomenclature.

I removed the passenger side power seat track and reinstalled the manual one. I did this mainly because I wanted the seat belt buckle to be in the correct placement on the frame of the set. I also don't have to fuss with locating the power seat switch. Niether my Mustang or the Fusion has a power passenger seat and I have never missed it. 

I worked on switch relocation today. I reverted back to the early Ford joystick for the mirror switch and mounted it where the cigarette lighter goes under the flip up ashtray lid in the console. I always sucessfully installed my original power window switch where the Mustang fog lamp switch normally goes. I used silicone to bond the switch to the underside. I had a couple of those little coin holder inserts that are used to fill the switch holes when the Mustang was not equipped with fog lights or a convertible top switch. I simply trimmed the top edge ring from the coin holder insert and it made a nice finished looking bezel around the power window switches.

I am looking forward to carpeting and headliner installation. I have to recover the door panels in black vinyl, paint the armrests black so they will match and also paint all the remaining interior trim black.

Remember I said I wanted to do white contrasting seat and door panel inserts... I think I have changed my mind on that and I am just going to do all black. However I am going to do the white stitching like my Mustang has when I get the seats recovered.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 27, 2010, 11:36:48 PM
More updates...

I got chrome rings for the gauge cluster and to my dismay they were a pain in the ass to install. They are simply supposed to "snap" into place. With the cluster face and lens being one unit, these rings are inserted diagonally through each hole from the back and manipulated to press into each gauge opening. However, the quality of manufacture is so poor that none of the tabs in the back of the rings would stay snapped in nor were the rings deep enough to clear the back of the gauge openings sufficiently. After stuggling a bit I gave up... Then I did some research and found feedback from others stating what a PIA they were to install. I ended up having to shave some depth off the plastic back of the cluster bezel in all the places where the tabs come through. Still wasn't enough to hold them in place without unsnapping and falling back into the cluster lens. So I made the mistake of using super glue as others have done and just as I was trying to set the last ring in place, the one next to it fell out, dropped down and got super glue on the black cluster face and the clear lens. You can see some of the big F-up on the lower left of the cluster face. Live and learn, even when you think you have mastered a lot of things.

So I ended up ordering a brand new gauge cluster lens assembly from Late Model Restoration for only $29 which is cheaper than buying a used one off ebay, plus it will be in new condition without scratches. I am thinking twice about putting rings in this new one, but if I decide to try again, no super glue, and I will simply cut the tabs off and adhere them on the edges that sit flush on the back of the cluster face with a clear arts and crafts type contact adhesive instead. At least that way the adhesive will elegantly roll like booger and come off if it accidentally gets on the wrong place.

Moving on to the switch reloction work, you can see how I took the original style Tbird window switches and bonded them from underneath the Mustang switch opening using clear silicone. Then I took one of the coin inserts, cut away the top edge to make a bezel to finish around the switches. A simple thin spread of clear silicone on the bottom edge of the bezel all around secures it flush into place for a finished look.

Looking over into the ashtray comparment under the flip door, I reused a mirror joystick with a chrome  and installed it in place of the cigarette lighter. No mods were needed as the hole was a perfect size to do this. I do need to take the metal retaining nut back off and refinish it.

Next up: affixing a vinyl mask to go over the retainer trim that holds the rubber insert for the e-brake slot.

Also, the pair of 1987-88 door panels I got are now stripped of the original vinyl and carpet. I am going to get new black vinyl to finish it off and paint black the door panel armrest, exposed armrest support, mappocket surround and door pull strap.  What if i door the armrest pull strap in the silver finish like I did for the dash trim?... It might be an interesting constrast, especially since this one runs the length of the door.
Title: Delete
Post by: Quietleaf on June 28, 2010, 06:59:58 PM
Have you considered white gauge faces like the '05? With the right typeface they might look good, but you might have to have custom ones made that don't look "ricer".

The typeface on the '05 gauges looks like Eras Bold or Eras Heavy. I'm not sure they're the best choice, but they don't look rice, at least.
Title: Delete
Post by: SSX on June 28, 2010, 09:14:19 PM
Even though I don't own a Cougar anymore, I still check in here from time to time and this is one of the threads I enjoy reading the most.  Excellent work as always.  This is the sort of project I like, the average person will have no idea it isn't stock and everything works together very well.  Keep up the great work.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on June 30, 2010, 02:45:03 AM
Quote from: Quietleaf;326732
Have you considered white gauge faces like the '05? With the right typeface they might look good, but you might have to have custom ones made that don't look "ricer".
 
The typeface on the '05 gauges looks like Eras Bold or Eras Heavy. I'm not sure they're the best choice, but they don't look rice, at least.

I have thought about white face gauges before and I used to love the look on most any car but the novelty has worn off for me and I really do embrace the retro style of the black gauge face with the classic style typeface like my Mustang has. The Tbirds in the 1960's also used this typeface.
 
The late model SN-95 Mach 1 and Bullitt also adpated the classic typeface and I would love to have someone make me a set of inlays with that typeface, but for the 120mph speedo that I am using. It's a low priority detail right now with all the other things I need to get done, but ya know a project is never really finished even when it is finished. There always seems to be something you can do different.
 
With the 62 Tbird dash below I notice how much more the dashtop is rounded than the earlier 1959-60 dash design. This sort of relates to the more rounded look I have using the Mustang dash. And of course it is really obvious where the design of the classic Mustang and my 08 Mustang dash comes from. Those Tbirds were first to use the chrome barrel gauges and the familiar typeface...
 
I just now noticed where the steering wheel spoke design came from on my 08 Mustang. Classic Mustangs always had the multiple round holes in the spokes. The 1962 Tbird with it's slot spoke design has the related theme as my 08 Mustang. Ford must have decided to go with the Tbird-like spoke design to better accommodate the cruise control buttons.
 
My 08 Mustang came with the factory premium interior upgrade package with the silver aluminum trim. The only thing that was not silver originally was the centerstack trim bezel which was black. I found a silver paint to match and it completed the look of the Mustang interior much better. This is the same exact silver paint color I used for the Tbird dash trim.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 02, 2010, 10:24:06 PM
I got my brand new cluster lens assembly today. I feel better now.

I also cut off the small inner sections of the sun visors today so they will fold up with the roof console installed.

I also bought a 2-din radio centerstack bezel that is used on the last few years of the SN-97 Mustang. I am not sure what my exact plans are for the audio system yet but it does leave for the future possibility of a large LED touch screen. Gone is the virtually useless dash mounted cup holder and coin tray. It looked neat to use with the single din radio bezel but I am not going to miss it since I have a slide out cupholder that extendes from the console armrest. If I want to bad enough I can find a newer Mustang console that incorporated dual cupholders where the ashtray location used to be. However, I hate to waste the console that was graciously given to me.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 06, 2010, 09:39:11 PM
I did a few more things today...

I bought a steering wheel cover a while back which was black and gray with chrome strips sewn in. Today I took the silver paint and painted the gray to silver. Turned out nice and gives the wheel character more like a classic car.

I also got a later model Mustang centerstack bezel with the double-din radio opening. This also has extra switch plugs in case I ever need them. I painted the bezel silver today and the finish turned out better than the first one I used. This bezel will give me the potential at some point one day to install one of those large LCD sceen audio systems. Meanwhile I will procure a later model Ford double din audio unit.

I had been having problems with my right power window motor. I took it apart today and of course it has corrosion inside where moisture had been getting inside. I cleaned it out and a saved it and now it is working properly. I sealed the motor's ends with foil tape to keep moisture and water from getting inside again. I do recommend to anyone to try to take the motor apart and clean it if it fails instead of just going right out and buying another one. Now I have to get some grease and relube the window regulator mechanism.

The roof console is installed and you can see where I cut my plastic sunvisors so that it will fit in between with the visors down.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 06, 2010, 10:12:34 PM
One more...
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on July 06, 2010, 10:39:27 PM
Looking great!!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 06, 2010, 10:48:26 PM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;327535
Looking great!!


Thanks!

I gotta sew on the steering wheel cover permanently then it will look properly done.

I am not happy with the passenger airbag delete insert. I have some tpuppies to do to make it fit better on the right side and I am going to use some better quality vinyl. I noticed some annoying irregularities in the gray vinyl I had used. I have to buy black vinyl anyway to recover my door panels.

So the door panels are next and expect somewhat of an unexpected visual surprise.  Next is matching the rear seat compartment trim by spraying it all black. After that, headliner, package tray and carpeting. Then all the black trim will go in place. I will also need to switch to black seatbelts. The interior will then be done until I can afford to recover the seats.

Meanwhile... I gotta get my butt in gear and start working on the mechanical restoration!
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on July 06, 2010, 11:51:09 PM
On the air bag delete panel on the passenger side,I was wondering if it was a painted plastic to match the driver side,would it look a little more symmetrical....matching so-to-speak?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 07, 2010, 11:24:46 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;327556
On the air bag delete panel on the passenger side,I was wondering if it was a painted plastic to match the driver side,would it look a little more symmetrical....matching so-to-speak?


The one I have is formed from a very generic plastic with this course sandpaper like grain like you often see used on aftermarket audio installation kits.

Yes I would prefer to have the cover match the plastic instrument cluster bezel. It's just a detail I will work on to improve at some point. My best option is to buy the expensive factory style airbag delete cover for the SN95 Mustangs which features no Mustang name logo.
Title: Delete
Post by: jkirchman on July 08, 2010, 11:32:46 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil
My best option is to buy the expensive factory style airbag delete cover...


How much do they cost?  It might be worth it to just save the cash and get one instead of wasting time to modify one that you are going to end up getting rid of anyway.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 09, 2010, 03:50:26 AM
Quote from: jkirchman;327686
How much do they cost?  It might be worth it to just save the cash and get one instead of wasting time to modify one that you are going to end up getting rid of anyway.


Wow it just went on sale for $134.96. It was $149.95.

(http://www.cjponyparts.com/images/1000/ABC3.jpg)
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on July 09, 2010, 08:43:01 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Passenger-Airbag-Delete-94-04-Ford-Mustang-air-bag-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335e47b942QQitemZ220625090882QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Passenger-Airbag-Delete-94-04-Ford-Mustang-air-bag-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335e47b942QQitemZ220625090882QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

USUALLY,UPR will go a little lower than their advertised price.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 11, 2010, 12:48:24 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;327784
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Passenger-Airbag-Delete-94-04-Ford-Mustang-air-bag-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335e47b942QQitemZ220625090882QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Passenger-Airbag-Delete-94-04-Ford-Mustang-air-bag-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335e47b942QQitemZ220625090882QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

USUALLY,UPR will go a little lower than their advertised price.



That is the one I bought already and covered. I did not like the grainy finish. It also needs some tpuppies on the right side so it will fit better and more flush. Funny though that they are just a few miles from my house!
Title: Door Panel WIP
Post by: Watchdevil on July 11, 2010, 01:03:46 AM
I got started on my LH door panel. It's still in progress but it is turning out pretty good. The vinyl around the map pocket and speaker grille area needs to be glued.

I decided to cover that raised edge that runs along the bottom of the armrest pad into the map pocket. The plastic was scratched up pretty bad in a couple of places so this turned out well. Lots of staples though! Where the door lock buttons are on the front edge of the armrest housing I am thinking of leaving the buttons covered across with vinyl so they will be hidden... You would just press on the vinyl. I thought it might be a neat thing I dunno.

I think this door panel was practice because I need to make an adjustment so the thin foam layer is not bumpy at the top of the sill area. Yes, learn by trial and error but I bought a ton of vinyl and got the remaining yardage on the roll free because there was not much left.

I have the armrest pad in place. The door pull strap of course has not been worked in yet. These two items will be interesting when you see the final result. I have to paint them along with my speaker grilles. The lower carpet will go on later as soon as I am able to order the yardage I need at the same time I order my floor carpeting. I also have to buy yardage of black carpet for the rear window deck. I plan to cut a piece of thin fiberboard traced from the original deck carpeting then cover it with the black carpet. I also saved the original gray lower door carpeting so I will have a template to cut by. I am also going to have to line the inside of the map pockets with carpeting so I do not injure myself with the staples that poke through...
Title: Delete
Post by: gumby on July 11, 2010, 11:26:21 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;327921
That is the one I bought already and covered. I did not like the grainy finish.


have you considered a few coats of resin to fill in the grain? would take a bit of sanding and patience for a nice smooth finish, but i think the end result would compliment the cluster and center stack trim much better than vinyl.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 11, 2010, 11:40:47 PM
Quote from: gumby;327939
have you considered a few coats of resin to fill in the grain? would take a bit of sanding and patience for a nice smooth finish, but i think the end result would compliment the cluster and center stack trim much better than vinyl.


The original Mustang airbag cover is grained to match the dash. Im not so much concerned about the vinyl grain as I am getting the cover to fit well on the right side. If I wanted it perfectly smooth, rather than using resin it would be easier just to sand the grain off smooth and paint over it. However I need a whole new cover to start over with because I already have holes where the bird emblem used to be on it when I had it covered in black vinyl. If I am going to spend more money I'd rather wait and get the factory looking airbag delete from American Muscle.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on July 12, 2010, 12:02:21 AM
Sand it smooth,use a little body filler or JB Weld to fill the holes,and then paint to match.I saw some silver plastic paint made for dash panels at Autozone today when I was grabbing some primer/sealer for my console control panel.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 12, 2010, 12:11:55 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;328012
Sand it smooth,use a little body filler or JB Weld to fill the holes,and then paint to match.I saw some silver plastic paint made for dash panels at Autozone today when I was grabbing some primer/sealer for my console control panel.


Actually the silver Duplicolor paint I have been using works flawlessly, especially on the vinyl! The paint must have a flex agent already in it just incase it is used on flexible bumper covers. The paint seems to chemically bond to the vinyl without flaking or chipping. I tested a piece of s vinyl before I started painting any of it and it's virtually impossible to scratch it off. That is why I used it to accent my steering wheel cover.

However, I have an issue with my steering wheel cover. The vinyl is so thin that the thread cuts it when I pull it tight to sew it. I stopped my attempt to sew immediately until I can figure this out. Another delima to solve of course!
Title: Door panels...
Post by: Watchdevil on July 13, 2010, 06:49:35 PM
Looky here... The door panels are nearly complete and here is the interesting thing I was saving for the reveal... Love it or hate it I think it looks good.

The speaker grilles are painted black but I have not instlled them yet and the lower black carpet is going to be done later.

Oh yeah I hid the door lock buttons under the vinyl...
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on July 13, 2010, 06:53:09 PM
Personally I think that they are going to look great with the rest of your interior
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 13, 2010, 06:57:56 PM
Quote from: hypostang;328178
Personally I think that they are going to look great with the rest of your interior


Thanks for the compliment! I went ahead and painted the rear seat armrests as well. I gotta paint all the rear seat area trim black along with the front kick panels, roof pillar trim and rocker sill plates.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 14, 2010, 01:37:09 AM
UGHHHH!

I gave up on trying to stitch that rigid slip over steering wheel cover. It would have looked great if I could sew it up. I tried it and it's too much hassle and it would have took way too much time... thread breaking and even at that I could not get the seams to close up well close the steering wheel spokes...

So, I am going to find a regular sew-on leather steering wheel cover. I do okay with those. I dunno if I ever mentioned it but I have put those on numerous cars I have had plus a couple for people I know. I even stripped the factory black stitching out of my 08 Mustang leather wheel and put white in so it would match the stitching in my seats.

There are a lot of sources for two-tone steering wheel covers.
Title: Delete
Post by: cougarman on July 14, 2010, 07:36:21 AM
I really like the door panels!! :bowdown:
Title: Delete
Post by: Davemutt on July 15, 2010, 06:22:52 PM
Those door panels will look great with the dash.  Nice work!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 16, 2010, 03:19:36 AM
I am glad you all are liking the door panel treatment. I took a big risk painting the armrests and pullstraps silver. That paint sticks very well to vinyl.

I got my double-din Ford radio/CD/Casette player today. I had to make a junkyard run to get a harness to plug into it. I got it wired up and installed and it works like a champ and sounds really goood. I do have one bad speaker in the LH door as the volume is not up where it should be. It has been doing this with the last two radios I had.

Well, I have a delimma with my 08 Mustang. The ignition lock cylinder won't turn. It's jammed up. I had noticed that it had been getting harder to turn and it would catch on the second or third try. Now it won't turn at all. It's a shame that a 25 year old lock cylinder on my Tbird has not worn out yet I only got less than 2 1/2 years on the one on my new Mustang. Warranty should cover this. However it's going to have to be towed from my home to the dealership because I cannot get it started.
Title: Delete
Post by: Haystack on July 16, 2010, 06:08:57 PM
Saw this and thought of you
http://www.florida50.com/1994-2004-specialty-products.htm
(http://www.florida50.com/user/gimage/dscn4752_280_165.jpg)
A custom formed panel to replace factory air bag units. *
Fits in the opening where the original air bag unit mounts.
Mounting of the panel has 2 options, Velcro or Screws. 
Black ABS textured plastic.
Complete with hardware and instructions

* Custom-ed Formed - not flat ( the panels shape patterns the factory curves of the original Air Bag unit

Listed at $65...
Title: Delete
Post by: Romeo2k on July 16, 2010, 09:16:24 PM
I picked up a factory 1995 GT air bag cover at the JY today 'cuz i thought you might be able to use it, It is split down the middle due to airbag deployment~But shouldn't be to hard to fix and looks fine.

No worries if your not interested.
Title: Delete
Post by: Beau on July 16, 2010, 10:57:08 PM
Watchdevil, I think I'm going to locate an SN95 dash sometime this fall and swap in, so I'll be PMing you for a few small tips.

BTW door panels look great, kudos.

Haystack, when I do my 'stang dash swap, I'll probably get a cluster from that place you linked...so TIA ;)

I've also got an explode overhead console just like yours...only...won't do me any good, since I have a hole in my roof. :hick:

Anybody want it...?:D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 17, 2010, 12:37:17 AM
Quote from: Haystack;328480
Saw this and thought of you
http://www.florida50.com/1994-2004-specialty-products.htm
(http://www.florida50.com/user/gimage/dscn4752_280_165.jpg)
A custom formed panel to replace factory air bag units. *
Fits in the opening where the original air bag unit mounts.
Mounting of the panel has 2 options, Velcro or Screws. 
Black ABS textured plastic.
Complete with hardware and instructions

* Custom-ed Formed - not flat ( the panels shape patterns the factory curves of the original Air Bag unit

Listed at $65...


I did come accross this during my searches! Thanks for the tip!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 17, 2010, 12:42:02 AM
Quote from: Romeo2k;328504
I picked up a factory 1995 GT air bag cover at the JY today 'cuz i thought you might be able to use it, It is split down the middle due to airbag deployment~But shouldn't be to hard to fix and looks fine.

No worries if your not interested.


I so appreciate that you did this. However I already went this route by trying to bond the seam back together and covering it with silver painted vinyl. I had a problem with the seam repair seperating and slipping down on the right side and it made the vinyl I covered it with buckle.

No worries I will get this sorted out. I may just hold off until I can blow the $130 on the nice factory style airbag delete with no Mustang name script.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on July 17, 2010, 12:55:00 AM
Quote from: ThunderbirdSport302;328511
Watchdevil, I think I'm going to locate an SN95 dash sometime this fall and swap in, so I'll be PMing you for a few small tips.

BTW door panels look great, kudos.

Haystack, when I do my 'stang dash swap, I'll probably get a cluster from that place you linked...so TIA ;)

I've also got an explode overhead console just like yours...only...won't do me any good, since I have a hole in my roof. :hick:

Anybody want it...?:D



I'll be happy to help you when you are ready. My install is a little unique in that I actually took the metal frame out of the Mustang dash and laid it over my 1984 metal dash frame. If I had to do it over again I would probably just modify the Mustang dash frame. You do have to cut 3" of the dash top off ahead of the defroster vents. There is enough gap that I left in mine so the defroster still functions. The dash will stick way too far out if you do not cut it.

As far as the instrument cluster goes, I just got one from a 1997 Mustang V6 before they changed from the mechanical odometer readout to the digital ones. I don't recommend the digital ones as it is much easier to set the mileage correct on the mechanical ones. Also the V6 cluster has the ability to convert it to V8 tach function with just a simple jumper wire.

As far as the Explorer console goes, if you just want the compass/temp readout, I would cut the roof console right where the Mode button ends before the maplight section. I would fabricate some trim on that end where it is cut.

I also seen a roof console on what I believe was a Mark VII which had the compass and temp display as well as maplights. It fits closer to the windshield header and it is integrated into a seperate headliner fixture that spans with width of the windshield underneath where the sunvisors mount. I know many of the Mark VII's had sunroofs and this should fit ahead of that.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 09, 2010, 01:10:02 AM
I finally snapped a shot of the double-din audio unit I installed...

The past couple of days off I have been busy installing leather seat skins in the new Fusion in place of the original cloth material.
Title: Delete
Post by: RunninWild on August 09, 2010, 12:42:24 PM
Just curious, why didn't you go with an aftermarket unit as opposed to one from what looks like an Explorer?
Title: Delete
Post by: 1Bad88tbird on August 09, 2010, 09:17:41 PM
Man I wish you lived closer! I'd like to be able to switch over to leather in my Fusion. The seats look good!
Title: Delete
Post by: sarjxxx on August 09, 2010, 10:41:03 PM
looking good WD!
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 10, 2010, 01:52:55 AM
Quote from: RunninWild;331275
Just curious, why didn't you go with an aftermarket unit as opposed to one from what looks like an Explorer?


The radio is OEM spec in a Mustang when the audio unit dash opening was switched to the larger face during the later SN-95 model years.

I do not feel like spending a lot of money at this time on anything aftermarket since my priority now is getting the mechanicals restored. Part of the charm of doing my restoration is finding so many bargains on good used functional items. I also like incorporating as much of an OEM look as possible with the parts I use. The Ford audio CD unit was a very reasonable purchase from eBay and it works perfectly. It sounds good too. Maybe one day I might consider switching to a high end LCD touch screen audio system, but I don't even have such in my 08 Mustang. I have to make do with my "basic" 6-Disc Shaker 500 with NO SYNC or navigation, so the OE radio will do just fine in the Tbird since it is far from being a reliable driver at this point and it's nicer than any radio any Tbird ever had except for the 2002-05 models.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 10, 2010, 02:14:55 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;331323
Man I wish you lived closer! I'd like to be able to switch over to leather in my Fusion. The seats look good!


Thanks. These do have preforated inserts and the same course grain that my Mustang has, not that soft smooth stuff. I wanted to do two tone dark brown and light stone but I got vetoed because of the higher price for custom made covers vs. ready made on the shelf ready to ship covers.

It just took a lot more time than I expected to install these compared to the Mustang. I had to spend a lot of time on the fold flat front passenger seat. Then I come to the very last piece I had to install which was the rear seat bottom cover and it was wrong. It was ptterned for a Hybrid model which has a cutout for some kind of grille at the front of the rear seat bottom. So we had to call the seller and get them to ship a correct set bottom cover for non-hybrid models. My hands are so sore from doing this install and my chronic arthritis is not helping. However it looks great!

I would tackle installing replacement seat covers on the Tbird without hesitation. It would save some labor costs if I had the covers made and put them on myself. I just wonder if I should hold out for some sport seats or not. I'll cross that bridge one day since I need to get this Tbird running well.

I am tired of it being a lawn ornament and I want to have fun driving it more than three miles in the neighborhood. It runs but the converters overheat after five minutes of driving. When that happens it runs like they are clogged. Also one of the fuel pumps stops working intermittantly and the engine stalls. I have to wait and keep priming the pumps by turning the key on and off until I heard the loud gurgly sound of fuel going through the pump again. Then there is the issue of the transmission. It starts bucking like the torque coverter will not disengage.

Why did I not just go out and buy a car in better running condition?... Oh yes I remember now... This was a save from my parents driveway to prevent it from going to a crusher. I was not even looking for a second car or project car for myself....
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 10, 2010, 02:25:27 AM
Quote from: 1Bad88tbird;331323
Man I wish you lived closer! I'd like to be able to switch over to leather in my Fusion. The seats look good!


Dude if you buy the kit you can do this yourself. Katskins or Pecca brand OE style seat covers... Even with the original sew patterns. It takes time and patience but it's all basically slip on. You have to punch holes for the headrest guides. You also have to undo the factory installed hog rings. I replaced them with zip-ties. They are easier to install that way and work perfectly in place of hog rings. There is seat trim removal that you have to do.

You also have to safely depower the airbags so you can remove the side airbags from the seats. It's easy to do. I used a Ford WSM procedure and followed it to a T. No trips back to the dealer for reprogramming. It's as simple as pulling the 10 amp fuse for the passive restraint system, verifiying that the correct fuse circuit is disabled by turning the key on and waiting for the airbag light to flash indicating system not ready. Then turn the key off, remove the negative battery cable, wait a few minutes, then remove the airbags and unplug them. Repowering the airbags is simple. Reinstall the airbags, put the fuse back in, turn the key to on then reconnect the negative battery cable. Verify that the system is ready by turning the key off then back on and make sure the airbag light is out after 6 seconds and stays off.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 22, 2010, 11:56:58 PM
Thanks to Vinnie I now have an auto dim rearview mirror for the Tbird! It has a compass on it as well so I will be running two compasses... LOL!

I finally installed my 3rd brake light in the bottom of my back window... Yes exciting news huh?

Lately the engine has been stalling while driving. Normally I can drive it about five miles until the converters heat up and clog. Now I cannot go 1/4 miles before it stalls. Step on the gas and it stalls. I try to start it back up repeatedly until it decides it will run again. Me thinks one of the fuel pumps is failing or I have burned out all the fuel in the tank and I do not know it yet... I don't believe I could have burned out my tank of gas yet because I have not even put 50 miles on this car since I filled it a few months ago. Could be moisture in the tank I don't know about. I keep forgetting to buy me some Stabil. I try to drive the car once a week but it's been hectic lately and the car has been sitting so much that I had to recharge the battery today.

I just wanna move into the light where this car runs great and I can enjoy driving it... I am not impressed with myself that at this point that it seems more like I have a relic yard ornament. I so wanna do what some of you guys have been doing and do a nice engine rebuild. It's just out of my skill set.
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 23, 2010, 12:21:53 AM
So...Where are the pictures?! Come on, I posted pictures today!

Geez man, North Carolina, it'll be at least a year before I'm over that way! I'd be happy to help though.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 23, 2010, 12:32:33 AM
Quote from: jrad235;333093
So...Where are the pictures?! Come on, I posted pictures today!

Geez man, North Carolina, it'll be at least a year before I'm over that way! I'd be happy to help though.



You're moving to NC eventually? Kewl...

Ha ha no pictures today... I need to snap a few but these things I did were so insignificant I really didn't think it would merit them... So next chance I get I'll take some pics...

What would be even funnier is if I took video of the Bird stalling out and trying to restart... This is pathetic. When I started this restomod project I would have never guessed that I would be swapping out a dash and spending so much time and effort on interior stuff. I should have been well progressed by now getting to the practical mechanical restoration. I feel like a bunch of Ford designers that have just built a rolling styling prototype that cannot move on it's own...
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 23, 2010, 08:55:20 AM
Quote from: Watchdevil;333096
You're moving to NC eventually? Kewl...

Heh, not quite. My brother lives in SC, and I'm thinking about road tripping it out there, so, if I did, I could swing by and check it out.
Quote

Ha ha no pictures today... I need to snap a few but these things I did were so insignificant I really didn't think it would merit them... So next chance I get I'll take some pics...

Let's see, you have pictures of EVERYTHING else!

Quote

What would be even funnier is if I took video of the Bird stalling out and trying to restart... This is pathetic. When I started this restomod project I would have never guessed that I would be swapping out a dash and spending so much time and effort on interior stuff. I should have been well progressed by now getting to the practical mechanical restoration. I feel like a bunch of Ford designers that have just built a rolling styling prototype that cannot move on it's own...


Try not to get too frustrated with it, it is certainly a project. If you truly believe the converter is the issue, call around for a reasonable exhaust shop to replace them.

So...Just how much do all those converters cost?
Title: Delete
Post by: sarjxxx on August 23, 2010, 02:58:37 PM
Quote from: jrad235;333118
So...Just how much do all those converters cost?

high-flows can be had for anywhere from $20-80 a piece they're not too bad.

I would just go ahead and get headers and an x-pipe with built in hf cats if you're gonna keep them... If your gonna go all out with this car mechanically as far as you have on the interior, then that would be the way to go anyway:D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 24, 2010, 12:05:47 AM
Quote from: sarjxxx;333157
high-flows can be had for anywhere from $20-80 a piece they're not too bad.

I would just go ahead and get headers and an x-pipe with built in hf cats if you're gonna keep them... If your gonna go all out with this car mechanically as far as you have on the interior, then that would be the way to go anyway:D


Time and money is holding me back right now. I think I am going to start with the simpler stuff like brakes, shocks, struts, bushings, etc. and work my way to the engine, transmission and exhaust. Exterior refinishing will be last. It will not get painted until it runs like a charm. When I pay off my Mom's car next year I will have more $$$ to play with. My Mustang is half paid for. It's going to be heaven when I pay these cars off.

I have North Carolina state inspection so it's tougher here.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 24, 2010, 04:12:25 PM
Okay here are the exciting pictures...

Comp/Temp Auto Dim mirror in the Mustang.

Comp Auto Dim mirror in the Tbird

3rd brake lamp installed on the Tbird.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on August 24, 2010, 05:28:10 PM
Nice. I like it. What is that rear package shelf? I have to try to remember how to re-set my compass mirror.It's been so long I forgot.Got any info on that?
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on August 24, 2010, 09:30:00 PM
Quote from: Watchdevil;333226
Time and money is holding me back right now. I think I am going to start with the simpler stuff like brakes, shocks, struts, bushings, etc. and work my way to the engine, transmission and exhaust. Exterior refinishing will be last. It will not get painted until it runs like a charm. When I pay off my Mom's car next year I will have more $$$ to play with. My Mustang is half paid for. It's going to be heaven when I pay these cars off.

I have North Carolina state inspection so it's tougher here.

Save your money for the essential work.

I wouldn't even bother with the suspension until it's drivable. Brakes, well, if they work, don't touch them yet. Running first, refinement later!

Get that car over to an exhaust shop and get the cats replaced!!!!

Good luck.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 25, 2010, 12:46:21 AM
Quote from: vinnietbird;333281
Nice. I like it. What is that rear package shelf? I have to try to remember how to re-set my compass mirror.It's been so long I forgot.Got any info on that?



The rear package shelf is just the bare painted sheetmetal. One of my finishing projects will be to recreate the shelf carpeting. I don't wanna just lay carpeting over the rear shelf. It needs to have a backing so it will lay straight and smooth. I plan to use some thin fiberboard (like pegboard material) of some type and cut it out to the shape of the original carpeting (which I saved). Then I will make holes for speakers and a cutout for the bottom of the 3rd brake light then cover it in black carpeting.

For the compass calibration drive to an empty parking lot somewhere. Hold the compass button down until the "C" displays. This is the calibration mode. Drive in a circle three times and the mirror will confirm calibration. There is also another variable calibration some compass displays have by selecting a numerical zone.
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on August 25, 2010, 12:52:00 AM
How many wires are used on a non thermometer mirror?
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 25, 2010, 12:52:24 AM
Quote from: jrad235;333307
Save your money for the essential work.

I wouldn't even bother with the suspension until it's drivable. Brakes, well, if they work, don't touch them yet. Running first, refinement later!

Get that car over to an exhaust shop and get the cats replaced!!!!

Good luck.


Oh the brakes need work bad.

I am worried about replacing the cats before getting the engine to run well because I am afraid the way the engine is running now it will damage the new cats.

I am just thinking of simple not too expensive stuff to do until I can get serious about the engine. I also have no idea is the transmission is savable. It's a little slow to engage into gear and when it warms up the drivetrain bucks like the torque converter is not disengaging when it should.

I should have just took $500 and bought a good running driver instead of taking on the sentiment of restoring my original onwer step-mom's car. I think I just may have a $1000 invested so far with all the mods, I am not sure.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 25, 2010, 12:59:51 AM
Quote from: hypostang;333351
How many wires are used on a non thermometer mirror?


If you dont have this mirror get one. It so functional and practical just for the auto-dim feature. I never thought about how much I would like it as I was more into the novelty of the temp and comp displays.

If it is just an auto-dim mirror with or without a compass, then it is three funtional wires of which I only used two. There is a 12V+, Ground, and 12V+ from the back-up lamp curcuit to inhibit the auto dim in reverse. I did not inhibit the auto dim, so I only used a 12V+ and ground. The compass function if so equipped is all contained within the mirror assembly so all it needs is 12V+ and a ground.

Now with the Temp/Compass mirror in my Mustang there are five functional wires. 12v+, Ground, 12+ from back-up lights and two wires that run from the temperature probe which mounts at the front end of the car. Note here that I did not hook up to the back-up lights for this car either.

With these auto-dim mirrors, they use a photo-sensor facing the windshield to determine if it is dark outside to activate the auto dim and to determine the brightness of the display. The rear facing sensor just detects how much light is coming from behind in order to adjust the darkness of the mirror.

There are various mirrors that can be used. Many of them have On-Star buttons, Homelink, etc. Some of the mirrors even have outputs to send a signal to the LH and RH door mirrors for them to auto dim if a vehicle is so equipped.
Title: Delete
Post by: 88CougarGT on August 25, 2010, 01:01:22 AM
I screwed up the Catted H-pipe thing pretty bad (read costly).

If you get an H-pipe, make sure there is room for the cats.  I bought the cheapo Summit H-Pipe and some cheap 2.5" bullet style cats. The way the pipe comes down its very close to the bottom of the car and tucks up tight under the cross member.

 I took it to three ler shops and they couldn't put them on without massively chopping up the H-pipe.  I ended up buying a performance H-pipe with cats.

I would buy the cats you want and walk into the shop and have them build downpipes for you.  I tried to do it all myself and ended up paying for it.

Stupid inspections.  I guess I am entitled a few screw ups.

Now I have a set of High flow 2.5" cats I would be willing to unload.  I also have an extra off road H-pipe. :wtf:
Title: Delete
Post by: hypostang on August 25, 2010, 01:05:24 AM
I already have an auto dim mirror in my car from a 90 town car , I too  skipped the reverse light  wire .
I like the idea of a compass but not the idea of running new wires, next trip to pullapart  I'll be on the look out :D
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on August 25, 2010, 01:20:33 AM
Quote from: hypostang;333356
I already have an auto dim mirror in my car from a 90 town car , I too skipped the reverse light wire .
I like the idea of a compass but not the idea of running new wires, next trip to pullapart I'll be on the look out :D

If you already have an auto dim then you are all set all all you need to do is make a connection to the existing wires and mount the mirror.
 
Running the wires for the temp sensor was easy for me on both my Tbird and Mustang. I have no headliner or roof pillar trim installed in the Tbird right now. However even for the Mustang, it was just a simple matter of removing the interior "A" pillar trim, running wires pushed under the front edge of the headliner then down the "A" pillar post. Then made a connection for 12V+ under the dash. For the ground I just tapped into the ground wire for the roof mounted map light which is mounted all the way forward in my Mustang. From under the dash, I ran two wires through a grommet in the firewall and pulled it through to the very front of the car. I then secured the wiring neatly and connected the temp sensor and zip tied it to an existing hole on some structure behind the bumper cover.
Title: Delete
Post by: sarjxxx on August 31, 2010, 10:21:57 PM
holy . I read the whole thread.
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on August 31, 2010, 10:41:43 PM
Quote from: sarjxxx;334297
holy . I read the whole thread.


That's a lot of reading at one time.....like a book.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 01, 2010, 01:31:06 AM
Quote from: sarjxxx;334297
holy . I read the whole thread.


I am sure it took days... It would not have taken so long if I didn't change my mind so much...
Title: Delete
Post by: sarjxxx on September 01, 2010, 10:42:30 PM
Uhhh, yeah.... 4 day split up read... over the course of two weeks;)

But, it was a good read. I'd reccomend this e-book to anyone.:flame:
Title: Delete
Post by: sarjxxx on September 01, 2010, 10:45:56 PM
Btw, just my opinion, I really think the mn-12 steering wheel looked sooooooo much better with that dash. Not trying to knock your custom one, I know you love it, and there's nothing wrong with it, I just think the other one really fit the current interior.:2c:

Ohh, and the bird on the dash, AWESOME!!! I loved it.
Title: Delete
Post by: Watchdevil on September 02, 2010, 02:01:26 AM
Quote from: sarjxxx;334426
Btw, just my opinion, I really think the mn-12 steering wheel looked sooooooo much better with that dash. Not trying to knock your custom one, I know you love it, and there's nothing wrong with it, I just think the other one really fit the current interior.:2c:

Ohh, and the bird on the dash, AWESOME!!! I loved it.


I love the MN-12 wheel too, but it just sits uncomfortably close to my chest. It's a deep wheel and Fox body cars need a shallow one.

Hardly anything custom about the 1984 Tbird steering wheel I am using. The only thing I did was modify the center emblem so that it actually blows the horn.

There is no telling what wheel I will end up with in the long run. Right now my main concern is getting it to run flawlessly. I would feel a lot better right now if it was. Right now I am a little discouraged but I just have to give it time. The cosmetics are always a piece of cake.

BTW, I seen a wonderful 85 Turbo Coupe today one of my customers was driving.  it ran good. It really only needed a paint job and some cosmetic refinement. Thunderlust set in needless to say.
Title: Delete
Post by: sarjxxx on November 15, 2010, 09:17:36 PM
what the heck happened to this thread? did you give up? are you gone? i'm so confused
Title: Delete
Post by: jrad235 on November 15, 2010, 10:13:07 PM
...???
Title: Delete
Post by: vinnietbird on November 16, 2010, 06:58:17 AM
What the.......................What happened. We gotta have some kind of explanation after all that dedicated to the thread.
Title: Delete
Post by: Bob on November 16, 2010, 07:10:24 AM
That's a whole lot of work to delete all them posts, is that done manually or some sort of batch delete
Title: Delete
Post by: EricCoolCats on November 16, 2010, 04:36:28 PM
Deletions were by the thread starter...ask him...
Title: Delete
Post by: HAVI on November 16, 2010, 09:27:48 PM
Quote from: sarjxxx;341761
what the heck happened to this thread? did you give up? are you gone? i'm so confused

+1 ???