I just picked up a real nice and clean '87 TC and the owner had mentioned it'll be needing an oil change real soon, which is no problem.
I'm wondering what oil you guys use for 2.3 motors?
I think I used to use high mileage castrol 10w40 in my '85.
Cant go wrong with 75w tractor oil!
Uh.....no thanks.
Well if it's stock, it still has the slider cam. The word on the street is that a lot of the newer oils are containing less and less ZDDP (zinc) which a slider cam needs. Some of the diesel oils still contain moderate amounts of ZDDP. The Shell Rotella T (std and synthetic) is one of the main brands. The std is a 15W40 and the sythetic is a 5W30 or something like that.
If it has a roller cam, you don't need to worry about it all that much, as the zinc content isn't critical.
That all being said, I've usually used std Valvoline 10W30 dino oil in my cars. My 2.3T has a roller cam in it now though too, but even before I used the std Valvoline in it.
I switched to Mobil One from regular oil about 15 years ago. I noticed a drop in water temperature and if my car would sit for more 2 weeks in between starts, I would get some “lifter tick” upon start-up that went away when I switched to synthetic.
Speaking of diesel labeled oil vs. regular labeled oil and the requirement by the EPA with the reduction of zinc; an engineer friend of mine was talking to Mobil One just last week about it and he was told that their Turbo Diesel Mobile One synthetic has 1100 ppm of zinc and regular Mobil One has 100 ppm.
Brent
Mobil 1.
Mobil One in the Mustang.
Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil in the Cougar 1400+ ppm zinc. You're gonna pay though. $10 a quart...
http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/hotrod/index.html
Read this thread: http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=21617
10W30 Mobil One in the 88 T-bird.
The 95 gets 5W30 Valvoline/Pensoil/Quaker State. What ever is on sale at the time ;)
I always use Motorcraft oil filters in all my Fords.
Motor is stock. So the general replies seem to be 10w30 mobil one.
Thanks all
newer oils have next to no zddp in it. catlyitic convertors :flame:
ill use supertech full synthetic 10-30w now with a zddp additive put in and, depending on the vehical, ill also use that cheapy accel brand stuff(also at walmart) meant for 88 and older motors if i dont have any of said additive. i only use motorcraft filters on my fords.
i dont run a race car and change my oil frequently enough that the cheap stuff works just fine.
one oil i wont use is that "Q" synthetic stuff, that looks and flows like water.
mobil one is good oil but to me it doesnt justify the extra cost when the cheap stuff works about the same.
What is this, a case of monkey see -- monkey do???
Chuck stated a 2.3 ZDDP to protect the slider cam... Next Brent stated Mobil 1 only has 100ppm while the Diesel Synthetic has 1100ppm(which is approx the amount in all oils 8-10 years ago)... Myself, I only use oils in my vehicles with the diesel ratings, as it's supposed to contain a full concentration of ZDDP...
I should reiterate that my car has a roller cam in it now, so next oil change it will be getting a synthetic regardless of ZDDP...just used up the last gallon I had sitting here of the Valvoline dino 10W30.
I will say that both my Scorpio and turbo Volvo have sliders in them and I plan on changing the oil used in them. I have a couple gallons of std Rotella T that I will be using in the Scorp this weekend and after looking at that Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Synthetic, the turbo Volvo will be getting that on it's next change. I'll eventually use that in the Scorpio as well I imagine for the next change after this.
I would recommend the synthetic Rotella T (I hear you can get it @ Walmart...I refuse to shop Walmart, so I don't know) or the Turbo Diesel Mobil 1 Synthetic. Autozone appears to have that...runs about $7/qt.
So...can anybody make a recommendation about a good diesel oil to break my motor in on? I dont want to wipe the cam on initial startup :/. Will any Diesel oil contain more ZDDP than standard oil?
If you have a good coating of assembly lube on the cam, you should be fine regardless. It's a good idea to brake in a new engine with conventional oil. What weight depends on the engine. I change the oil and filter after the first 100 miles or so and then again at 500. Then if you want to switch to synthetic, after the first 3000.
yes, they sell it there but in a 4 qt bottle. its usually around $10-12 bucks. they have other brands of diesel oil there as well.
as far as i can tell the oil i buy from them didnt come from china so im okay getting it from there.
i wouldnt get my milk from there though:mullet:
as for the OP question, as long as nothing is leaking horribly and you clean off the oil pickup screen thingy youll be fine with any 5 or 10-30w oil dino or sythetic.
FWIW, Both Royal Purple and Joe Gibbs make oil specifically for break in purposes. I believe AMSoil does as well. The JG break in has 2500 ppm. That's NOT a typo.
Picked up some Rotella T 15-40 weight for my 302 flat tappet. Better safe than sorry. I intend to run 10-40 or 15-40 for the life of the engine (if it lives past startup :P)
I love Wal-Mart but I regret it every time I go there
I think I’m telling myself something.
My understanding was the engine only needed it for a break-in period that’s why they took it out. If I recall the story correct, it was a few years ago and it was my friend’s sbc but the machine/engine shop said he had to put an additive in specifically for the cam and for break-in and its not in oil anymore. it was to Harding the cam if I remember right.
there is a company that makes the zddp additive for you to add to [your own] oil. cant remember the name i dont have the bottles anymore(gave them to my sister when she took the car) but thats what scroogle is for.
if you were very nit-picky and have the dough there are even shops that will make oil for your car specifically.
Any engine with a flat tappet or slider cam, at any mileage is flirting with disaster using the latest oils... This is especially true if running high lifts and spring pressures...
http://www.zddplus.com/
(http://www.zddplus.com/imgs/zddplus_4oz.gif)
Ok so the standard for the 2.3 motor seems to be 10w30 oil. Should I go with synthetic or standard oil? Should I buy that addictive folks are talking about?
I'm going to try this out in the car:
Turbo Diesel Mobil 1 Synthetic
Wow mobil 1 turbo diesel 5w30 synthetic at autozone is $7/qt.
Do you guys think I should give rotella t a whirl and throw in that zddp additive?
Should I get synthetic or conventional?
Sorry for sounding like a noob, but I am. In my '85 TC I'd just use castrol high mileage.
if your car isnt leaking anywhere use the synthetic. i never had any problems/leaks/whatever using it in my mustang with the 2.3l motor, i never used an additive in it.
with the rotella you probly wouldnt need to use an additive, my choice for diesel oil was the stuff my buddy used to get me from CAT(the brand was CAT). the gearheads there had no issues using it in their own rides. we beat the hell out of an old integra for about two years(about 60k city driving) using it and never had any shavings in the filter or screen.
if you want to pay more for the same thing go ahead and use the mobil one or red line stuff, ive had no problems using the cheapo supertech stuff.
to me oil is like gas, some brands cost more and work alittle better than others but when it comes down to it they are all basically the same stuff and do the same thing.
opinions are like bellybuttons, everyone has one and this one is mine:hick:
the only place I have a leak at right now is the valve cover gasket. which I plan to replace over the weekend (weather pending).
that rotella T in 10w30 is a b*tch to find!
I'll check the car for leaks and if there is none, I'll run synthetic.
15w40 shell rotella
JMO
Auto Zone in PA, at least, is having a sale where you buy any 5 qts of mobil 1 oil and get a bosch oil filter for $29. I'm going to get 5 qts of the turbo diesel 5w30 synthetic and a bosch filter tomorrow.
Valvolne 10w-30 with a quart of Lucas and a Motorcraft oil filter.
I'm Gonna use Rotella to flush my engine when the new cam is finished ( It's finally in, just want some assurance on the lifter preload before I button it up and measure out the pushrods)
Go here for mucho info on oil:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com