Took my truck in for maint.
Guy did the 20k mile inspecton thing, oil change ect.
He told me my rotor were shot. I looked and yeah they could use a turning. I asked how come this is happening so fast?
He told me now a days the pads are pretty much harder than the rotor steel as the rotors are softer metal than they use to be.
what junk.
Steering wheel is shaking now during brake applied , now ai know why. Also my pass rotor is getting hotter than my driver side. With ABS, it could b ea number of things. I couldnt imagine the interior of the caliper hose breaking down already preventing fluid from bleeding back when no brake applied.
Looks like a heafty brake job for someone soon.
Wow, all that on the 20k maintenance? Where's the quality control there........
My wifes '06 Mariner has almost 80k and all original brake parts. So maybe it has something to do with your driving style or driving conditions?
Edit: Not trying to be a dick just pointing out that our vehicle's brakes have been great for us.
Gotta watch those brake checks....:mullet:
Brakes are a huge source of problems for all manufacturers. They're making them smaller to save weight (and money), and they're using materials that have poor wear qualities but are silent. Seems (and my dealership experience supports this) that people would rather have quiet brakes than sturdy brakes. Put a pad that'll last forever on and the customer will complain at the noise. Put one that is quiet on and the customer will not complain... for another 20k miles or so.
Not only that, but people are demanding race car brakes on everything. There is absolutely no need for rear disc brakes on 99% of the cars on the road, especially FWD cars. They are more expensive and far more troublesome. They rust because they hardly do any work. Calipers seize because nobody uses their park brake. Drums, on the other hand, were simple, effective, and trouble free. Yet show a car magazine a car with rear drums, any car, even the cheapest of econopoopsters, and they deride them. It's one of those things that everyone needs rear disc brakes because everyone is telling them they do...
Brakes are just like anything else its all about the money! Yeah you don't needs those super duper brake pads but that super hot chick tells me how awesome they are and that gives me the idea that if I get those brake pads I'll get a hot smart chick like that. Yes the regular ones would work fine but then I might have to get up and clean those wheels off and get dirty while actually WORKING. Never know while I'm down there cleaning up the dust from those non-rotor eating brake pads I might actually look inside those holes in the wheels and see I'm getting close to needing new ones before they grind a groove in my now fine rotor! So you make your choice pay more for those top of the line ceramic pads along with a set of rotors every they make a noise or you can opt for the RACE BRAKE PADS that are super hard that will eat your rotors even faster and make you clean up more dust than ever before! Or you can come to your senses and put on some regular old semi mettalics or organic pads still clean your wheels and as long as you don't ride the brakes or makes brake check stops regularly your rotors will be just fine, and all this for half the price of less than the so called top of the line pads or those RACE PADS!
As for your brake troubles at that few miles I tell you that sounds like those calipers were sticking or even the pins were bent or corroded.
i dont own the truck,, just pointing out the dealer mentioned the rotors are now made with softer steel and the pads are more agressive.
The rotors are not shot,, just heavily grooved to a point I know next go into the shop and they need turned.
The Dealer said they pretty much put up thier rotor turning machines,, they just put new ones on.
Yes, we stopped turning rotors as well, because it's only a temporary repair and actually makes the situation worse (not to mention new rotors are so cheap it's hardly worth the bother anymore). The rotors warp because there's not enough metal in them to dissipate heat. Taking some metal off is the exact opposite of what needs to be done.
The quality of the rotor material must have gone down since the current generation Exlporer has been on the market. My 2002 Explorer has 143,000 miles on it and it's on it's third set of front pads and second set of rear pads but all four rotors are original. I do understand WV is probably harder on brakes than MI though.
I don't know if anyone else noticed, but the 4th generation (2000-2007)Taurus/Sable sedan had drums on the rear with no disc option, and the wagon versions were rear disc only. I asked a Ford engineer friend of mine that told me that due to the extra passenger capacity of the wagon, the drums would not meet the governments brake standards and therefore required the rear discs.
My Mazda6 rotors warped after 11k miles. It was common. That car was fun, but cheaply made.
if you live in the rust belt you need to watch the pads seizing in the brackets, i have that problem in alot of the vehicles i work on at the ford dealer.
it would be nice if our cars had hub assemblys. I suppose if they did , it would take all the fun out of rotor work.
No thanks you can take your idea of the same $8.00 bearings you have now and make them into a hub so you can't grease or replace them without buying the whole unit and Keep it. I'll play with some grease and get a little dirty and save my wallet from the pain of throw away parts.
I like the whole wheel falling off rather then it getting alittle bit noisey to let you know to replace it. I dont know about you.
My wife's 2000 Cougar had to have BOTH front wheel bearings replaced about a year ago. The parts were not cheap. A fully bolted wheel moved as if I had removed the lug nuts and were trying to wiggle it off the studs....
my wifes 03- alero loves to eat front brakes and hubs. It's not a terrible car otherwise but i can't wait to replace it with something a little less.....i dunno, GM
yeah,, your right. My spindals are worn so the inner bearing is rigged with shim stock to prevent the inner bearing inner race from spinning.
Now that i recall doing the bearing on the mother in laws kia sofia, that stupid bearing did press in from the outside of the hub. Yeah, your right, the wheel could come right off. Im not sure what the odds are of it happening though. It would not be a funny experience in the least.
One of my freinds had a wheel fall off and mess up the whole car after taking there car to a shop to get the brakes changed.
Im sorry, but you know a hub is coming apart long, long before it happens.
I agree with Shame302: Wheel bearings get noisy long before they get dangerous. They growl like a , and will have play in them (any play at all in a sealed bearing is grounds for replacement). When they get REALLY bad the don't just growl, they howl, and eventually they make sing sounds as the wheel flops about and the brakes grind. There is no excuse to ever let them get to this point though. Bad bearings would be noticed long before complete failure on any vehicle that is reasonably maintained.
I've seen it to many times. People come in to my work looking for the bearings for there car thinking about the last time they bought bearings 20-30years ago. There eyes get all huge and bugged out when I tell them it is all made into an assembly that you have to buy as a hole unit. But they always repack my bearings when they do my brakes some even say. There idea of $50 for bearings and seals NOPE, why not try $200.00 is about the average price range. Then we could talk about those 3/4HD and 1 ton trucks @$300.00 and those are all each prices. All for a part that takes the same old bearings on the inside as we have had since the 50's. Just now they make to races as one piece or so you have to destroy what holds it in to get it out. Then we have those sleeve bearing that press in just as bad. All of these are sealed units so you can't grease them so that old nasty metal toned grease is still in there like liquid Steel with some grease in there too. So from the beginning they used a part that last long enough that you have to buy a new one once the warranty is out. If our stuff is to good we won't sell enough parts to line our pockets. The paid the engineers to engineer more money in there pockets. So why do they cost so much because instead of buying the base bearings and seals you also buy the Hub the part that never seems to ware out and if it does you install new races unless that is wallered out. Then they don't harden anything near like they used to. Now everything seems to be case hardened not fully hardened like before. Much easier to break it that way.