Never used a HLVP gun before, I like it can really run some paint on.
Used a lot less paint than the traditional gun. Here's a before and after of the one I practiced on before I do mine. Oh yeh it's a cheby with very little prep done to it. The camera sucks to. this was done with centarui old school mix.
Looks alot like my first vehicle job. Nice work. By the way its "HVLP".
I see you jumped the gun. High line velocity sprayer.
I seen that.
HVLP= High Volume Low Pressure.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spray_painting#HVLP_.28High_Volume_Low_Pressure.29
I also noticed a huge difference in spraying when I finished all those doors last summer. Nothing compares to a good new gun.
what gun do you have? I forgot what you told me. LOL
I bought the devilbess 2 gun starting line kit, I used it the last month to play around with. didn't use everything that came with it, but was cool with it. Iv'e been using my sharp 75 for 25+ years. So I bought the GTI gun to use on my own, That's the one I just used. So I got a lot of guns, I like the gti.
did you use the bags with it? I love them. especially the lack of cleanup with them
What bags? I said old school, 2-1 with a little. if you mean the bags for the gun , no that would be to easy. If I had them with me I would of tryed them. your right that is a plus.
yea, the cup liner bags. Use them when you paint your car. You'll be able to spray with the gun upside down. it's a lot easier on the wrist that way when you do the rockers and fender lips. ;)
This is about the cheapest price I can find for them.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/devomx70k48.html (http://"http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/devomx70k48.html")
Thanks for the link, I think it would be more of a pain to use them on a whole car though.
when I do my cat I got 6 coats to do. I think I would want to clean in between. Give some flash off , give me something to do. I'm open for suggestions though.
When I do mine it will be only the second time I do bc/cc. I do like Imron sprayed a lot of that to.
with BC/CC, by the time you make your way around the car, it's already flashed where you started.
I would put 2 coats of clear, wait until you can sand it. use 2000 on it, and clear it again.
it'll take everything out of the clear, and make a nice smooth spraying base for the final coats. then wet sand it again after the final coat. But do it fairly soon after it hardens, or it will be a real pain to sand, as it will keep getting harder as it cures. then buff that baby to a mirror finish.
Then you can come over and do my car. :D
Kitz kat that looks pretty good to me . i haven't painted a car in years i was going to practice on my lawn mowers and my dads farm tractors :hick: before i paint my car next year if plans dont change . Nice work keep it up:bowdown:
Ugh...bringing back memories of trying to spray urethane. Sprayed great, dried horrible.
Jerry, why use two coats of clear, sand it, clear it again and sand it again? That seems like double the work for a very unpleasant job. Why not just use three coats of clear the first time, sand, buff and be done with it? Just curious, Mike.
It seems like more work, but without having proper spray booths we tend to get a lot of in our home made paint booths. The reason is......
If you get a lot of debris in the first couple of clear coats, they tend to get very large by the time you put the final coat on, and require a lot of sanding to get out. which also runs the risk of sanding more in 1 specific area more then another. on certain dark colors, you will see a large flat panel look warped, depending on how much clear and how much sanding..
Also, if you get something in a first coat, and clear over it 2-3 more times, you may never be able to sand it out completely.
So the theory is to do a fast sanding between coats, instead of a long painful sand at the end of the project. I also do the same for my fine woodworking projects too.
But everybody has there own method. ;)
how long would you wait between clear coats to start sanding? what are the leading brands of compound to look for to buff after sanding?
it should say on the can. but take into consideration the temp and humidity. usually if you have a controlled 70 deg. environment, mabe an hour to hour and a half.
Polishing really depends on what you have available to you. From what I hear, Presta has a good high quality line of products for cutting and polishing. Again, read the manufactures recommendation for application of these products.
I believe in 3m products for buffing. like damic said read the can on the clear.
I still use some of the 3M stuff that I have accumulated over the years. I'm going to try some new stuff this summer and see if it's any better.
i learned something about painting.
do not use plastic trash bags to cover the wheel.
I shot primer on the white coug and let that dry.
I began my color and after the first coat along the fenders, I noticed what appeared to be dust bunnies on my paint.
Sure enough, the air presure from the paint gun was flaking off the primer from the trash bag and tossing it up on my fresh work.
really pissed me off.
pic of my first paint job.........
Now for wet sanding,, I made a huge mistake and i dont know how to correct it next time i paint. Ive always seen everyone wet sanding simply holding the paper and having continuous water going on. I did the same thing and all i got was lines in the paint of what appeard to be the pressure from my finger tips. I tried to keep the pressure even but it came out like . I had to run a buffer and 2000 grit compond like hell to get most of it out.
Second pic tells the story,, I had a terrible time getting that glassy mirror look with no iddy biddy orange peal divits.
I usually change the bags between jobs. I was always afraid of that happening. Your paintjob looks great though.
I generally have to re-mask the car after priming and blocking before paint. So yes, I usually change the covering on the wheels if they're still on