So I'm stripping my hood down to repaint it, but A: I'm positive I used the wrong paint and B: I promptly got frustrated and aircraft stripper'd it.
Anybody got the lowdown on how to get paint off in the quickest, most economic fashion? Most of it is ser'd off at this point, but I'd like to get down to metal.
Get a soft sander/grinder wheel like a medium grit for an angle grinder, or just use an electric sander with a coarse/medium sandpaper. Thats what I used to remove rust from my car, and in some places went a little further up beyond the rust, and took the paint right off without wearing down the sheetmetal.
heres a pic to show you hope it helps
If you look at the lip all the paint is gone, and it kept all the shape and form. I can thank daminc for that one.
"...without wearing down the sheetmetal"
Ahem, sir, around here we like to call that "stage III weight reduction"
Edit: Your pic didn't show
Its showing on my screen.....
And I'm sure there are other more orthodox ways to do it, this is just what I discovered
Now I see it. What do you think about one of these?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=65990
I looked for angle grinders, but they all have guards that might not work too well on a flat hood.
Thats how im doing it, got one of those small palm sanders from black n decker..... it works fantastic!!!! im using 80 grit for the rough spots and then 120 to smooth everything out, and then im going to hit it up with some 220 before paint,
This is what I use.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90288 (http://"http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90288")
That wheel in the picture to the right is almost exactly what I used, (got it from harbor frieght too..) except I just used the grinder because I had one, but that would probably work better and quicker
To expand on this a bit, you'll want to block sand with a wet paper at 320-360 grit after primer surfacer. That will remove any primer overspray and other impurities. Then seal and top coat. I would not use anything more aggressive than the B&D palm sander or better yet an air DA sander. 80 grit is ok, then 120, then 220 as stated. Clean, clean, clean!!
I'm not worried about it being perfect to be honest, I just need to get the initial botched paint off. The car is white, but the hood is going to be black with a big fat Jolly Roger on it.
This is my ratbird, my fun car, and I expect it to be a beat-up, brash extension of my own mutinous personality :evilgrin:
Yeah, i know ill need to block sand, but i dont have 30 or 40 bucks just for some pieces of plastic, my buddy made some out of some fence pickets to do his 86 monte carlo........it came out ok, but i think i know a little more than he does..lol, and i can borrow my other buddies D.A., but its his works, so time would be limited.....
This is what I use to remove paint with out damaging the metal. I actually removed all the paint on my t-bird before I painted it with these and my electric drill. You can get them at Menards, Home Depot, or Fleet Farm. They work best with a drill that spins at 2500 rpms not the ones that spin at 1250.
(http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?66666UuZjcFSLXTtNxTtlXMyEV76EbHSHVs6EVs6E666666--)
Go to lowes
get a paint stripper made by "JASCO" in a spray can!!!
spray it on
have a cup of coffee
go back out there in about 15-30 min
wipe or spray it off.
amazing stuff turned me from the sandpaper real quick.
I used the same as andrew on my freinds toyota. They wear out quick, but they get down to the metal just as fast as anything else we tried.
flexible or semi-rigid blocks are $10 or less. :)
Yea they do wear out fairly quick but theres no chemical mess to clean up or to worry about wrecking new paint. I think I used about 15 of them on the whole car and a about a weeks worth of evenings to get all the paint off. 40 grit on the orbital sander works pretty good too.
I just used my grinder and a 40 grit disk. you can strip an entire car in about an 8 hr. day. If you use a grinder, you have to keep the speed around 1000 rpms, or you'll distort the panels from heat buildup.
What Rcarder407 has is what i have been using for a loooooong time, I've been painting for about a year and a half.
DAs are great for small areas, but for anything like an entire panel, expect it to take a long time to strip. But it can be done.
I, for one, like the idea of soda blasting. Followed by Hold Tight 102
Where do you get them for 10 bucks?????????????? im only taking all the scratches and dings out of the body,and sanding off the clear, but i will need a block for my pass. door.....
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1791&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=1488&iSubCat=1489&iProductID=1791 video doesn't do much.
oh, i thought you were taliking about the longer ones that you attach sandpaper to......those look good tho......
No matter the size of the board, people still tend to push the distance their arm allows. Which is about 2 feet.
Also, the trick with the softer blocks is hand pressure. Don't want to be heavy with the fingers.
right, im constantly sanding the area lightly, then gliding my hand over it lightly to see if i can feel any imperfections, but i still need blocks, and some more fine sandpaper......
Pneumatic rol-lock grinder.
game over.
Ah ha!
Body guys at the shop I work at use 'em all the time... couldn't remember what they were.
I use them everyday too. running a 3" will take awhile, but it is effective. Just gotta be careful of scratches...may end up more work in the end. My $.02 I have MAC for the roloc, and I have a Ingersoll Rand with 4.5" sanding discs layed back to back instead of a backing pad, and they work fast as well, but again, sanding scratches.
Bristle discs work pretty good too, but they'll wear.
For better feel, use your non-dominant hand when feeling. Strange I know, but it works.