Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

...the TFI module had a known issue.. What pins do I check and in what sequence... This car has 208,000 miles on it... so any help would be greatly appreciated...
    Thanks,
                Odie

But, I would still like to know how to use a paper clip and a test light to get the codes from the computer... The service light still coming on..

Diagnostic testing with codes 3 step method

**For more detailed info and other options to pulling codes, visit the Tech library at therangerstation.com. Scroll down on the left and click on EEC-IV Diagnostics under the "computer" section.
To pull codes, locate your diagnostic connectors usually on the driver side engine bay.
There are two connectors, one large female one has 6 pins sort of triangle shaped. 4 pins along the bottom row and 2 on the top row. Count these pins by looking into the connector and counting each row left to right.
The second connector will be a single wire female plug as well located near the 6 pin female plug.

Below will be instructions on how to use a jumper wire to connect the "sig rtn" lead to the "sti". Here is where you would use a paper clip to make this jumper. The SIG RTN connetion is on the large connector , top row , right hand pin. (top row has two pins). The "STI" conneciton is the single wire lead near the diagnostic large connector. Read below and install the jumper when told to.

MEMORY CODES
Memory codes are problems that the computer has noticed in the past. If for example there was a loose wire to a solenoid that only lost contact while driving but was making contact while testing the system there would be NO HARD FAULT CODE. The code would show up IN MEMORY. The same would happen for a sensor that only went out of range occasionally. Memory codes come out AFTER the separator pulse.

NOTE: The computer will erase the memory after a certain number of engine re-starts if the problem does not repeat itself. The number of re-starts varies from 20 to 80 depending on the year of the vehicle. The later models keep memory longer.

Clearing Codes
These codes are kept in memory for 40 warm up cycles. To clear the codes for purposes of testing or confirming repair, perform the code reading procedure. When the fault codes begin to be displayed, de-activate the test by either disconnecting the jumper wire or releasing the test button on the hand scanner. Stopping the test during code transmission will erase the continuous memory. Do not disconnect the negative battery cable to clear the codes; the keep alive memory will be cleared and a new code (19) will be stored for loss of PCM power.

Below will mention using a test light instead of the check engine light during the instructions you will read. If you would like to be up near the engine and pull the codes then hook up the jumper wire when instructed and as described above. NOW, hook up a professional or riged up test light from the positive batter terminal to the large test connector , bottom row 2nd pin (STO pin) counting left to right looking into the plug. When you follow the steps below, the test light will strobe codes and how to decode them will follow below. I have used a 12dc buzzer i got out of an old microwave that gives me an audible tone. This makes it easier to focus on the paperwork end of the task so im not looking back and forth at a light and paper second guessing myself.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>START HERE
STEP 1
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Method OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT METHOD

The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) on the dash (Engine Light) can be used to retrieve the stored codes. This method does not allow for any system investigation. This should only be used in the field where quick checks are needed. Follow the directions previously given for the scan tool procedure. To activate the tests, use a jumper wire to connect the signal return (SIG RTN) pin on the diagnostic connector to the Self-Test Input (STI) connector. The self test input (STI) line is the separate wire and connector with or near the diagnostic connector. Codes are transmitted with a pause between flashes. Code 32 would be sent as 3-flashes, a pause and then 2-flashes. A slightly longer pause separates the codes. The only way to repeat the code is to recycle the system. The Continuous Memory Codes are separated from the other codes by 6-seconds, a flash and then another 6-second delay. Compare the 2-digit and 3-digit Diagnostic Codes with the appropriate chart.

STEP 2

KEY ON ENGINE OFF (KOEO) TEST ************KOEO
NOTE: On 4.9L trucks with a manual transmission hold the clutch pedal in during this test.
On Diesel engine trucks hold the throttle to the floor during this test.

1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or a tester if you have one). Turn key to ON (do not start engine).
4. Fast Codes are output (ignore fast light flashes).
NOTE: Unhook self test input jumper (or tester if used) at any time during code output to erase memory.
5. Read hard faults.
6. Separator Pulse.
7. Read memory codes.
8. See code explanations and check components as necessary.
Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

STEP 3

KEY ON ENGINE RUNNING (KOER) TEST ***************KOER
1. Make sure engine is fully warmed. If in doubt, run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes.
2. Turn ignition off and wait 10 seconds for system to shut off. Make sure A/C is off and transmission is in Park (automatic) or Neutral (manual).
3. Hook up light and jumper (or tester if you have one).
4. Make sure vehicle is safe to run and start engine.
5. Engine I.D. should be output.
6. Step on brake and turn steering wheel 1/4 turn. If the vehicle has an overdrive cancel switch, push it.
7. If a "Goose" pulse is received, move throttle quickly 1/2 way down and release.
8. Fast Codes are output (ignore).
9. Read codes.
10. See code explanations and check components as necessary. Use FIRST CODE OUTPUT and retest after any repairs are made.

Great Scott! Scott, you just got much uglier!

Thanks for helping out, Paul.

:hick:

im sure i have him beat.:D