Fox T-Bird/Cougar Forums

A buddy of mine has an 89 Mustang 5.0 and wants to put an Eaton M90 from a supercoupe on his car similar to the picture. I told him it wouldn't do all that much, low boost and lots of fab work but he seems determined. Is this worth it?

(http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/attachments/5-0l-tech/39511d1202539279-will-eaton-m90-supercharger-work-eaton-v8-2.jpg)

Why not just get a supercharger system designed for a Mustang?

Because he's cheap? I have no real idea other than he wants cheap power and you can find these pretty easy.

well if he is really going to get into huge HP numbers he would be better off going with a different set up. The m90 is very limited. SC guys are overdriving them with some issues in the long run. Ie bearing falure. But id run a different setup on that anyway since the m90 is really limited.

There was a kit in the 90's from BBK called the InstaCharger.  Looked like that but without the obvious custom hacking.

From what I hear an m90 can do 9~psi or so on a 5.0.  Thats more than a $2000 elcheapo supercharger kit is going to get you.

I guess he found one from a guy for $200 off of a 91 SuperCoupe, I've seen the car he wants to take it off of. Its in great shape other than some minor bumps and ses, its a good lookin car. He wants me to make it work and I am looking for some good arguments on weather its worth it or not. I just don't know if this is going to work.

Love the clamp end hanging past by 3 inches....

Hardest part?  Finding/Fabbing a way to mount it....
It'll take some time to do it right, but if he's patient :burnout:

Yeah its not exactly beautiful.

http://www.toohighpsi.com/SCTC/sctc.htm

This guy does some amazing work, here's a twin supercharged V8 Turbocoupe. :burnout:

Mike Sitar is my hero. HAHA

yeah, the instacharger uses the M90 in it's kit.  and it is similar to the one posted...  I have a spare M90 laying around that I have contemplated making a bracket for my cougar for years....

I think it'd be pretty cool. Definitly a conversation starting point.

Didn't someone on here put one on a 2.3T with along with a Holset? I wonder what happened to it...

Here's the thread. ;)

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=13632

the 89-93 m90 was very inefficent. smallest pulley with most power created more heat than a dual intercooler could handle on a supercoupe.the 94-95 m90 was a little better butt still not worth the money to put on a 5.0 and expect any life from it
magnum powers make some great m90 style superchargers that may work well
mike

:bs:
To repeat a story .. a few years Hot Rod did a blower comparison and included one turbo.  The turbo outperformed every one of the blowers. 

Two junkyard T3s (or IHIs!) off TCs would have done a much better job with less effort and less money, esp if he's going to do his own fab work.

Aside from that, as previously mentioned, that blower is too small for the original application, not to mention a larger motor.

Um,  Yeaaaah.....

8 psi from a real instacharger on an aluminum headed 306 http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=779495

Kits originally sold as 6 psi or 9 psi kits.

:flame:

Be interesting to fab up a sheet metal intake and mount the M90 on top where God intended. 'Course that'd probably require DIS...

I've often thought about M90's (they're plentiful enough on B-O-P fullsize cars) but I tend to think two IHI's or two T3's would be easier to do and make more power (without the parasitic drag that a supercharger has). If an IHI can support 190 horses on a stock 2.3t two of them should be able to support 400 or so horses on a 5.0...

theres a guy on stangnet named jim bowy  he has a red 87 lx  he made his everything  check it out    that pic at the beginning of this thread is his car the first time around

The BOP cars used an M-62 on the series I and series II engines.  I'm not sure what the series III uses.

Twin Eaton m90 supercharged tbird
http://www.toohighpsi.com/SCTC/sctc.htm

Cool, but I think hes only planning on one and I think we are gonna do it.

if u are going to do it ,at least get a 94-95 s-model blower
the 89-93 model WILL grenade and tear up everything includeing the engine
mike

Good to know. Is there alot of differnce between the two?

yes,the 94-95 s model is more dependable,better chacne of holding up to the strian of a v-8
mike

Blowing up the motor cause it is a earlier blower??? I have never heard of such a thing...quit pulling his leg.

The reality is this...BBK used the early M90 as a supercharger kit back in the 90's. The BBK Instacharger is as reliable as sunrise as it is based on the Eaton M90. It is a really good SC and will add 4-8 lbs of boost to a stock 5.0. That boost increase alone is worth 100 hp!! The good thing is it is a screw type blower and not a centrifugal blower...that means it makes 4-8 lbs of boost from 2000 rpm and up!!! Makes the little 302 run like a 460!!!! Lots of torque!!

It is very easy to install one of these blowers on a 5.0 as I have already made brackets and cobbled all of the pieces to do it twice.

All you need is the blower, the pulleys for the water pump, crank, alternator (smog pump if you want), power steering pump and the entire A/C compressor (if used--I did not---it makes things hard), ducting from the throttle body to the blower, discharge tube, air bypass valve, belt tensioner (2 if you can get another), throttle body, throttle bracket and the TPS. You need to purchase and/or make an EGR block off plate and an intake manifold setup.

An intake that has injector provisions with a 4150 holley style carb base is used to make this easy. Remove the stock intake manifold and replace with one similar to the picture: They used to be hard to find but, are relatively easy to find now. This one is available from Anderson Ford Motorsport.
(http://"http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/intakes/EFI%20Hurricane.jpg")

This particular intake is made by professional products and can be purchased from Summit. You need this elbow in the picture or one similar from Edelbrock (http://"http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/efi/intake_elbows.shtml")

Drill the SBF crank bolt pattern onto the crank pulley. A simple paper rubbing with a pencil and some tape will get the SBC pattern from an existing crank pulley and transfer it onto the SC crank pulley. Replace all of the engine pulleys with the SC pulleys including the tensioner...you now have an 8 rib system...You may have to change the water pump pulley bolt pattern as well (I had an electric water pump).

Swap the valve covers..putting the fill side on the drivers side in the rear.

A small steel bracket will need to be fabbed to hold the blower on the passengers side of the engine over the valve cover as close to the dizzy as possible leaving room for wires. Fab a small spot to hold the second tensioner to this bracket...it must line up with the blower pulley and crank. Steel tubing and threaded rod will be needed as a long stud for the intake manifold and as an attachment point for the bracket. Weld your steel bracket to the threaded rod and make a small bracket to hold the other side to the exhaust bolt on the #1 or #2 Cylinder (whichever you feel is best) using long studs from a stock motor intake manifold bolt will work best.

Position your blower where the pulleys line up (use the outside crank pulley) and mark the blower. Using your paper and pencil again rub the bolt hole pattern on the bottom of the blower or intake manifold of the SC to make a small pattern. Place this pattern on the bracket to line up where you marked the blower in the position you wanted.
Drill the holes onto the bracket and place nuts that thread onto these bolts over the holes and weld them into place....viola...mounting points for the blower. Place the blower mounting bolts into the blower and bolt it down. Washers may be needed to shim the blower depending on what nuts you used. Make sure the blower pulley is parallel with the crank our you will chew up some belts.

Next, plumb some ducting!!!! The discharge outlet is ball and socket flanging....cool cause it does not leak alot plus exhaust uses the same thing!!! Cut the corresponding factory discharge tube( that leads to the intercooler) in half to remove the correct threaded piece that holds it to the discharge housing (save it for later). Have a large 2 1/2" to 3" pipe bent at an exhaust shop to get the intake to match up to the blower discharge and the engine intake . Flare the ball and socket end to match the discharge outlet. Place the threaded ball and socket "goofy" piece from the original discharge tube onto the piece of exhaust tubing and weld a  onto the other end that mates to a Ford 5.0 throttle body. Screw them together. Fit a 1" or 1 1/4" (i cannot remember exactly) piece of tubing into the bypass valve inlet and mark where to cut the tubing and at what point to drill a hole into the exhaust piece where they meet. Weld your new bypass tube to the exhaust tubing where you drilled the hole. The bypass tube should now be functional. 

If you want to go on the cheap use an old FMU from ebay......not alot of cash, or a boost referenced FPR. Plumb all vacuum lines to the intake of the blower. There is a vacuum tree already there for your sucking needs. Bolt on your EGR bypass . Mount your MAF ahead of the throttle body (use the SC MAF housing cause it is 75mm) and add a filter...Viola done!!! Look for leaks, DO A BURN OUT!!!!

:burnout: :burnout:

Excellent write up - just need to correct the above as the Eaton is not a screw type.

Well see thats exactly the argument I was looking for! I wanted someone to lay out a solid point and you did it man. Seems to me that this is an entirely do-able project for a little added power. Unless joker can make a solid point what the differences are on the blower and what the problem is I would probably do it.

seems like a worth while project to be given all the parts can be had cheaply and fabricating skills and tools aren't an issue.

Yeah thats why I'm thinking we'd be stupid to pass it up.

I think it would be cooler then shiznit to do the same thing with two m62's, as there eaisier to find and two would probably be a better setup for a 302 then a single m90.

I agree, excellent write up, just needs some pics to help explain it in detail even further....

and yeah, the Eaton is a roots style, not twin screw.

No.  The early models do not have Teflon coated rotors which means a greater rotor separation.  They will not grenade.  They just take more turning to generate more boost and therefore create more heat.

The S model has a revised outlet that flows more air than the early models.  Both work fine.  Both are easy to overhaul.  You can even swap coated rotors into your early model housing.

-dz

The 1994-95 models have a revised inlet as well. They will produce more boost at a lower RPM, but it is noting to sweat as stated.

There are a few things I wanted to elaborate on since there have been a few questions. What I posted last night was just from memory and I was not looking at anything...all of my stuff is at home in Illinois and I am stationed in Australia....so I will try to work with what I have......I tried to make last nights post condensed so that I was not boring to anyone and sounded like I was just running on.

First off, before adding anything or taking stuff apart, position the blower assembly with the inlet and Throttle Body where you want it to sit in the engine bay. Leave room near the shock tower as the motor will need the room to rotate that direction under load. Also your car will need maintenance so keep in mind the plugs will need to be changed.

Pictures.....OK...here is our subject. An Explorer intaked 5.0 with A/C delete.

(http://photos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2354/141/100/1558311372/n1558311372_181572_6606.jpg)

First thing I forget to mention.....I do not have photo shop or paint, as I took them off my computer when fixing a windows issue. You will have to use your imagination...Sorry.....Your blower bracket will have to fit behind the alternator, on top of the fuel rails and  the pulley will have to reside over the top of the tensioner attachment point, lined up with the crank.

Next, In this picture the factory lift point will have to be modified (cut off the top) and a steel bracket welded to it to support the blower base bracket from the front pass side.

(http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2354/141/100/1558311372/n1558311372_181573_6945.jpg)

In this next picture (this is the drivers side but applies to the pass side as well), The stud (barely visible behind the plug wire) used to bolt down the intake is used on the passenger side to hold the alternator steel bracket. This stud will have to be lengthened (longer studs can be purchased at a parts store) and a steel sleeve will be sandwiched between the alternator bracket with a nut on top. This steel sleeve will be used as a bracket attachment point and will be welded to a piece of steel that supports the blower bracket base on the front drivers side.

(http://photos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2354/141/100/1558311372/n1558311372_181577_6519.jpg)

Next, another bracket attachment point will be made about 3 or 4 bolts back from the first on the passengers side of the intake. It should be about 2-3" tall and 6-8 inches back from the first attachment point. There is already a stud there as it is used to hold the brass heater hoses to the intake. A modified steel alternator support bracket works great and can utilize this same stud if you are creative. That should hold the passengers side back of your blower base bracket and another support, similar to the first two you made, coming from the Holley carb base where the elbow bolts to the intake to hold the drivers side in the rear of the blower base bracket. 

Your intake elbow will be pointing to the other side of the motor, so it will not be effecting you.

One of the points I forgot to add will be the lack of hood clearance, so you will have to get a little creative. Another thing is the SC TPS will have to be modified to fit the Fox 5.0 harness. The wires are the same color so it is fairly straight forward, but it will be a hybrid TPS of the Fox 5.0 plug and the MN-12 SC TPS to utilize the SC throttle body.



Lastly, I remembered this morning this will not work as the original discharge tube is threaded and the blower end is not. I ended up just cutting the "nut" off of the discharge tube and using a piece of silicone hose and clamps, like the  at the parts store for the import guys. 

I hope this helps!!! If you have anymore questions please ask.

Dallas

what about if you moved the alt. down lower as in where it would be if you had a Vortech...  that would free up some more space.....  and tidy it up a bit too....  or maybe even move it over to where the AC was.....

I have a spare Eaton laying around and I think I am seriously going to try this out this spring, as the Cougar is soon to come off the road (at least from DD status).

Here's a picture of the custom job some guy named "Alex" did on a Fox car (LTD or something like that). He ran 11 psi and was running in the mid 11's IIRC.

(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e360/Domeskull/Alex_Eaton.jpg)

I've made up my mind we are for sure doing this. I think this is the cheapest way to make extra horsepower. I mean honestly why not do this? I don't understand why more people don't do this.

well to be honest a single eaton m90 does have enough cfm flow to properly feed a 302
mike

Then why do so many people have these on their cars and benefit from them?

Yes, it does have enough to feed a 302 into the 11's. Go search for AlexLTDLX on the Corral - he went 11.43 @ 119 MPH using the M90 in the picture above. Granted that's about it's limit, but not everybody is looking to make a career out of drag racing.

the fab work involved to make it work. had one guy on here try to supercharge a factory turbo coupe(while keeping the turbo), and it didnt last long at all. id say within a week of getting it running. havent seen him post since.

That just seems stupid, excuse my extreme honesty here.

Thus the term "intercooler" for an aircharge cooler that goes in between two different boost stages. That person's project was doomed from the git-go - probably melted the pistons.

Here's HIS synopsis....

http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showpost.php?p=157375&postcount=141



It didn't really fit under the hood too well...A huge cowl at that.
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s111/88cat/Picture278.jpg)

(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s111/88cat/Picture249.jpg)

(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s111/88cat/Picture255.jpg)

I still give him credit for trying.

would have been neat if it worked. can't say the guy didn't have any balls thats for sure.