ok so im not sure if this is normal or not because I'm new to turbo motors. When I step on it , it gets to 18 psi just fine but after
climbing through the RPM's the boost starts to fall off. Im not sure if it because I'm leaning out or because the turbo just does that at higher RPM's. Any answers will be appreciated.
well if its the stock IHI is still on there, its normal. Mine did it and when I raised it to 21 it would drop back to around 14 at 6200:mad: No longer a problem at 25 psi with my holset hx35:evilgrin:
The little IHI is an awesome lower rpm turbo, but runs out of breath after that and can't keep up. That's the drop your seeing. That and the stock cam is nice in the mid-range, but not so great higher up.
ok great. well im getting a racerwalsh cam put it next week and will hopefully soon have 40bob header and a bigger better turbo. :burnout:
Sounds like a great start. You are putting your own cam in, aren't you? Ridiculously simple in a 2.3T. I've got a ranger roller installed in mine, and while it's a good low end cam, I'll replace it when I can. I've got a RFE6 manifold I ported, and another IHI (mines dying) to put on. A front mount intercooler is also a good idea. Placing the intercooler on top of the motor wasn't Fords brightest idea. Quickly becomes an interheater.
yep I wanna get a stinger front mount as well. I am not actually putting the cam in. I'm not really mechanically inclined so I'm having a shop put it in along with new valve stem seals. ya I want to get the bird into the low 13's to high 12's. I think I know what I need to get to get there but incase I don't , anyone have expirience taking a 2.3 bird in the 12's. let me know what needs to be done
check my sig:burnout: Megasquirt, 65# or bigger injectors, holset hx-35, twin scroll header, 3" dp, FMIC, Boport 1.9 cam, ported head and intake, and a good clutch(spec stage 3+ here) and good tires(I used my hoosier autox tires to run that time. Mainly its all in the launch and how much boost you can get up on the two step as to how good the launch is:evilgrin: I would guess mine is making close to 400 hp because these cars are heavy. I run mine full weight - 3800# without me in it
alright thanks. how much did that turbo run you? the only one i found was for the 24v cummins. is that the one you used? have you done anything to the internals besides the cam? or are you using stock internals? if so freaking awesome?
Mine is staying a fun daily driver. We've got three and a half turbo four drivetrains around here to build another turbo car anyway. Probably be a mustang when it does happen. Once some of the back medical bills are taken care of, we'll start seriously looking for a roller to build.
Your project sounds like it'll be fun. As far as being mechanically inclined, just try and learn as you go. These engines are fairly simple to work on physically. The computer tuning is where I'll have to seek help.
yeah, 5.9 cummins. The hx-35 has a split scroll turbine housing while the hy-35 has a single inlet housing. If you are going to use the internal wastegate, go for the hy, or if you want external or to use a twin scroll manifold use the hx. On my manifold, I used a 46 mm ebay external wastegate. Had no problems keeping the boost at 12psi(gate pressure) when i was still on stock electronics. My turbo cost me around $325 on ebay. Little to no shaft play and looked almost new. Heres a pic
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/88%20t-bird%20tc/SNV30101.jpg)
BTW: Be aware that if you dont use the twin scroll manifold, It will spool pretty late(4000 or more before full spool) while my twin scroll can get full spool around 2800.
Dont know if you have seen this video or not, but heres just a look at a stock bottom end with arp rodbolts will handle
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fv1-omYCb9c
once again thanks. so where did you get the twin scroll manifold? The only thing i found that i thought could be it was the stinger header? is that what it would be or is it something totally different? is there any modifying you have to do to make the hx-35 fit? and just out of curiosity (you dont have to say if you dont want to) but how much did it cost to get to the stage you are at now with your 2.3.thanks
pretty much you have to build one. I think boport will be coming out with one eventually though. A twin scroll header is made by pairing cylinders 1 & 4 together to one side of the hotside of the turbo and 2&3 to the other. I think the hx35 will actually fit on the factory E6, but it would probably be tight back in there.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/motor%20stuff/SNV30348.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/motor%20stuff/SNV30357.jpg)
Photobucket is now being gay so no more pics at this time
As far as money, I cant honestly say because i dont remember, but it was worth it. Maybe 2 grand, probably less, and thats with making that header from scratch and getting it all ceramic coated and getting everything looking the way I wanted it to. BTW: from what I've noticed, stingers stuff is definately universal, and if you have any welding or fab skills, you may want to put them to work, at least with the IC kit. I wouldnt say it fits great myself, and the exhaust definately doesnt fit right because I'm trying to get mine to fit right now after doing major suspension work. Its good up to the lers, but the tailpipes are a bit lacking. And if stinger sees this, sorry man
once again thanks. all this info has been very helpful. do you happen to have pics of just the header ? and I was kinds figuring the stinger kit would take a bit of work to make it fit. (no offense) and for the exhaust I'm gonna have an exhaust shop do my exhaust because I want dual and I can't really weld :-)
fordguy, how did you do those beautiful tight bends?
-dz
how long do you think it would take a skilled person to put in a cam on a 2.3 bird?
Less than an afternoon for me. If your paying someone, they better get on it. Really isn't all that much to it. Getting the followers out is the toughest part. I didn't have the correct tool, and just had to make do. If your staying flat tappet, and not going roller, be really sure to break it in correctly, or you'll being doing all over again.
so should mechanic be able to take everything apart install the cam and put it back together In under 3 hrs or should I expect more?
The bends were the tightest radius 1 1/2 jbends I could get from summitracing. I had practice making the headers in my truck so it wasnt quite so bad, and didnt quite have the space restraints either.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/motor%20stuff/SNV30268.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/motor%20stuff/SNV30269.jpg)
Heres links to my photobucket album, and you can search through there for any pics you may need too.
I think this one has most of the header pics in it from beginning to end http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/motor%20stuff/?start=all
More pictures in here http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/?start=all
and a few pics of the headers for my truck. 2 1/8 primary equal length. These took me about a month full time to make
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/P3100004.jpg)
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c146/Fordguy545/P2100009.jpg)
Headers look great. Columbia River Mandrel Bending makes some really good and tight bends in aluminum, steel, and stainless. FYI.
Turbocoupetgill, I'd give it a little longer than that for a cam install/break in. If you can, get the mechanic to do the break in if your not comfortable doing it.
alright thanks.
Very nice. I bet that truck sings.