ok had the turbo coupe for two weeks now no problems till yesterday i have put bout 1700 miles on it and now i can't go over 3 grand any more. on my way to work it ran like the 2.3 turbos should fast and strong but when i left from work it wouldnt go past 3 grand
still can get highway speeds made it up to 80 yes i was speeding checked the compression this morning and #1had 128psi #2 had 135 #3 had 132 and #4 had 140 so i dont think its the hg any one have this problem :punchballs:
Ok, Heres your answer, Got codes? Next take some time to ask the ? the right way.
dont have any code the parts store cant help me on that and would have to miss a day of work fro the dealer . and didnt know there was a wrong way to ask a question.
If you can't help your self find how to take the codes by a search on here, I can't help you. The answer to your ? was try reading what you wrote.
Your problem is probably caused by something the ECU monitors.
Your local autoparts place should have a code reader for sale. If they're a good parts store, they'll have one you can borrow/rent OR that they can use to read the codes there.
Without codes, you're a blind man in an unlighted room looking for a black cat that may or may not be there.
That said, I'd verify the static timing, KOER verify the timing with and without the spout, and verify proper fuel delivery. And then there's the basics, hoses and clamps, lines and wires, etc, are all in good shape and connected properly.
Any other symptoms?
ok im sorry that i affended you in any way im not an english major just a small town country boy who is just trying to figure out a problem if you want i wont ask anything any more dont want to make you unhappy because of my bad grammer
thank you t3skidoo. advance or autozone both told me they couldnt help on the codes and to go to the dealer and that will have to wait till i get laid off . i will check the timing next weekend and go from there thank you for the polite responce
You don't need a code reader to check codes.
Go to http://www.turbotbird.com/ and look under the Tech Articles section. There you will find out how to check codes w/o a reader and what they mean.
How does it idle? Check to make sure all plug wires are will attached.
That blows. Find another parts store. EEC4 code readers have been available for since the late 80s, there's got to be a place near you with one. You don't need to go to a dealer.
Get one of these and learn how to use it, you'll be $$$ ahead... Defiantly do not take it to a dealer(take your KY Jelly if you do)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Equus-3145-Ford-Digital-Code-Reader-NEW-I-SHIP-FAST-NIB_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43989QQihZ014QQitemZ330302848592QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
If you car has a working CEL(Check Engine Light), it's possible to read codes with nothing more than a paper clip... BTW it must be a CEL not just engine, which is usually a temp or oil pressure indicator...
What's your boost gauge showing when it's acting up? How did your plugs look when you had 'em out? I've heard that 2.3t's are very fussy about misfiring, so make sure the plugs, wire and distributor cap/rotor are all in good shape.
In addition to a code reader you should get a timing light. This will tell you whether the timing belt has skipped a tooth.
Kitz Kat: Let's be polite here. We're not all experts on cars, or even the internet. If you wanna be nasty go join a Mustang forum.
thanks for the links i will try that and did forget to mention that the check engine light never came on at all
Does the Check Engine light come on when you turn the key on (but don't start the car)? It might not even work... not uncommon in these things.
i replaced the spark plugs motorcraft platiums new wires,cap and rotor button before i even drove it and the plugs looked good the timing light will have to wait till next weekend its loaned out have to get it back :toilet: going to read up on the codes so i dont mess it up when i go to the garage let you all know what codes poped up when i do it thanks alot all of you
yes the check engine light comes on with the key just didnt pop up when it started acting up
the boost gauge is showing between 5 and 10 id say bout 7 psi since this is my first turbo car i have owned been meaningto ask on here any way is the only time the boost goes ove 10 psi is when it is on prem. on the fuel selcetion and yes i had 93 oct. in the car when i did that
This probably isn't related to your problem, but don't use platinum plugs in a turbo motor.
the car idles at 1000 rpm i just saw that when reading back through trying to answer all questions
what is the best plugs for the 2.3
Read, young apprentice. The path to enlighted performance awaits you
http://www.turboford.net/faq/index.shtml
sounds like you have a fuel problem more than a computer problem. but I would start at the fuel pressure regulator pull the hose off and see if the inside is wet with fuel or smells of fuel. if this is the case change it and the problem should go away. also check your turbo for significant shaft play or contact of the compressor wheel with the housing.
Ok heres what i got so far the timing is good even replaced the belt and gears . as for the fuel replaced the fuel filter and seams 2 be runing better for now. ok now for the codes i got
21-ECT sensor input out of test range
24-VAT sensor input out of test range
28-?no clue to what this on is
42-EGO/HEGO or no EGO/HEGO system rich
72-power interrupt detected
74-? no clue on this one either
77-wide open throttle not senced during test
ok i have drove the car 400miles after doing this got the same codes by dueing the check engine light way no code reader both times before and after the timing and fuel filter
what do y'all think
21engine coolant tempeture sensor out of range. Bad or not hooked up.
24Vain air tempature sensor out of range, or intake air tempature sensor out of rang
28, vain air tempature out of range
42 system rich
72 (R) No MAP or MAF change in "goose" test - retest, check for frequency or voltage change - MAP MAF
(M) 1.9L MFI - VPWR circuit to PCM was intermittent - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 2.3L T/C - PCM re-initialized. Possible electrical noise, case ground or intermittent VPWR problem - VPWR Diagnosis
(M) 3.8L AXOD - Message center data link circuit fault
PCM re-initalized... I'm not sure what this means, but some one can help you out here.
74 Was brake depressed after engine ID was received ?
Brake On Off (BOO) signal open or short to ground - BOO
77 , I wouldn't worry about this one.
Also, Check out http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2digitcodes.html
I like all of there write ups alot better.
never touched the brake the e-brake was on to keep car from rollin
Was the engine @ operating temp when you did the test?
Also, you need to clear the codes, they don't "erase" themselves.
To do that you just pull the jumper wire out just as it starts returning codes as you're running the test.
Alternatively you can disconnect the battery overnight to erase them.
i will have to clear the codes and try again nope bout the engine temp thingy car was off for bout 45 min but in this ice covered place right now it cooled off really fast will redo test tomorrow :punchballs:
You need to run the car up to temp and then shut it down and connect the stuff for the code tests. It's pretty much useless to test a cold engine.
i know lost my train of thought on it was fixing a busted water line from not haveing power from the ice storm and thought bout the codes on the car droped the water line and did the codes then went back to the water line. i know i got issues let the wife tell me the water lines was more important then the car lol
ok redid test today and heres the result
11-system ok
74-brake on off switch - will replace
77-goose test
that was it and i feel stuiped not doing it right yesterday :punchballs:
Those codes show that really nothing is wrong in regards to the sensors/ECU.
If your brake lights work, the switch is ok.
You got 74 because during the test you were supposed to step on the brake. My car doesn't have this so I don't know when you are supposed to do it.
During the KOER test you will get a single pulse. This is when you momentarily "goose" the gas to WOT. This should solve the 77.
OK to clarify the "goose" and "brake " codes.
KOER outputs:
First output..engine ID code
Second output..dynamic tests code.
10 on a code reader or a single pulse on a meter. Operator performs the tests in the following order.
1. Wide Open Throttle (goose)
2. Turn steering wheel ½ turn
3. Brake On/Off
4. Cycle overdrive cancel switch.(E4OD)
Third output error codes.
Looks like only two of the dynamic tests apply to your car.
a fuel pressure regulator wont come up while scanning codes. my tc did the same thing and it ended up being a popped fpr. replaced and all is well.