well the engine is finally done. or done enough ill consider it done. lol. the car itself still has a lone way to go, trans, rear, and suspension, but the biggest part of the project is over with. i still gotta buy a torque convertes, trans input shaft and headers before i drop her in, but its getting close. heres some pics just for a lil update and for me to show off a little :D i think i earned it tho.
i do have a question, i noticed when i was putting the valve covers on, neither side has an oil fill? i put it on anyways just for the hell of it, but wtf? something is very wrong here right? i cant image they would purposely make both sides without a fill.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/grutinator/HPIM6332-Copy.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/grutinator/HPIM6333.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/grutinator/HPIM6335.jpg)
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e359/grutinator/HPIM6336.jpg)
beautiful! -faps-
but yeah, that's odd about the fill hole. o.0
Looks great! whats the specs on the motor?
my trickflow covers came with this already installed
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2D51400800&autoview=sku
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/tfs-51400800.jpg)
its a 347, Jay Allen custom billet cam, canfeild 195cc aluminum heads, 11:1 compression, comp cams 1.6 gold rockers and track heat intake. should be alot of fun.
mine didnt come with that fill canister, neither attatched or loose in the box. where does it mount and where to the fill lines run to? like did you have to drill and tap your covers to run a line into them?
I have seen covers like that before. Check under them and see if there is a place (probably 4 places, front and back on each one) for a "knock out" or at least designated for you to put the filler neck of your choice in the place of your choice, and as many as you choose.
One set fit's all this way, otherwise they end up with
Part #
aaa = front filler on the left or rear on the right.
bbb = rear filler on the left or front on the right.
ccc = Both Fillers on front or both on rear.
ddd = Filler on one side breather on the other
eee = you git the idea...
LOTS of combinations..
OR.. just let the guy make his own holes wherever he wants them and have 1 part number per style/color
Sweet motor btw!!
Nice, I got a CI cam too I can't wait to drive mine. I bought my valve covers used and the previous owner installed the fill-tube. From what I read you just have to drill it out.
Beautiful !! I can't wait to swap engines (hopefully sometime this tear),and then I'll have pistons with valve reliefs and will do that aluminum head "thang".
Wow! Great combination! Glad to see you were able to get it together. Nice job on the clean assembly and attention to detail. It looks impressive. How was the learning curve working with Jay? When it's installed an dialed in, look out!
Great Job!
Now get it in my car asap! :hick:
Wow looks great :D Should be fun :D I wanted to do something like what you've done with my 88 but then I realized the car would need a trans, suspension work, a rear end, and frame reinforcement. I didn't have quite that much to spend on the project so I ended up with the engine combo I have. It's nice but not nearly as nice as yours :D
Oh BTW is it a solid roller or a hydrolic roller cam? I probably should have gotten a cam from Jay even for my mild build. Live and learn :hick:
thanks thunderjet, but yours is up and running right now, kinda sucks not being able to drive my car for this long. i hope its all worth it. you seem to have a very nice t bird though.
and yea, it is good to know i have a cam made specifically for my bore, stroke, compression, heads, intake, even down to stuff like valve size, port size, port location and even how fast i wanna go :evilgrin: . im sure ill be happy when, or if, it runs. lol
but i took my valve covers off and i didnt see any marks or spots where a fill tube would go. so i guess i have to buy that remote fill canister and drill and tap my covers. i also set my upper intake on and it hits my valve covers, so it looks like ill need a 1'' spacer now too. :punchballs: more unexpected expenses
btw, its a billet hydraulic roller cam.
so i removed both covers and i dont see any spot where a tube should fit. the only marks i see look like casting marks and theyre a little smaller then quarters with 2 on each end [: :] and they dont look made to be cut out. i was looking at the tube that bob posted, thats for short covers right? and that actually presses into a hole. idk if i can use that. anyone run into this problem or know what i should do? theyre trickflow tall fuel inj sbf covers if that helps.
I had to drill a 3/4" hole in my (tall) valve covers to accommodate that Trick Flow filler cover. I had no markings on the inside of the valve covers, just lined up the new cover with the old factory one and used that old one's position to mark the hole on the new cover. Pretty simple really. The Trick Flow filler uses a rubber grommet inside the hole that you drill, and the neck just slips in (O-ring at the bottom) for a good seal. I don't know if I'd use it with a boosted motor...but for N/A you should be fine.
Finally...someone that gets it. :)
thanks Eric. i never seen this before, and i was a little reluctant to cut into them. but ill go ahead and order that filler and make it work. thanks everyone for all your help.
Ah ok. I thought Jay would have sugested a solid roller cam. Then again I bet that you'll be doing most of your driving on the street so the solid roller probably isn't worth the added maintinance. I bet you'll love the engine. I've heard nothing but praise for Jay and his cams.
Ah the Canfields. They are great heads. I'm going to use those when ever I decide to do another engine :D
The guy that designed the Canfield heads did the machine work on my heads. He's something else. I have a hook-up for Canfields also, whenever I get around to doing another engine...they're local to me.
thunder, i'll be doing about 50/50 street/strip, while i wanted this to be about as fast as it could be, i didnt want to loose any streetabilty. i bought the valvetrain from jay, so they're not cheapo lifters, they can handle the springs and the cam jay made me. if it were a 100% strip car sure, but i dont want to mess with solid lifters.
and yeah, i never even heard about canfields till i delt with jay. once a started to learn the dynamics of heads and what sounds like itll make power and what actually will, i was sold with these heads. it made me think i was crazy going back and looking at the heads i was thinking about running. as soon as shes up and running ill let you know how she does :evilgrin:
I figured that he would get ya lifters that would do the job;) I'd want hydraulic too. Some how having to remove the upper intake to adjust the valves every few month doesn't sound like fun :hick:
Jay's hydraulic rollers will rev (provided you get the associated springs & lifters)! I have one in a 347 w/canfields (the old 192 castings) which has a shift point of 6,900. The lifters are the Comp Lifters (non link bar) which Jay sells, with a shim added. The deciding factor for me between H/R & S/R was: the stock block. 7,000+ on a regular basis with a late model block is asking for trouble.
Jay's cam cards (or sheet) are great! He tells you peak power, shift points, crossing rpm (at the end of the strip) and maximum RPM. I've found them to be pretty accurate.
Once it's running, you're going to have a BLAST!
The only draw back I found from putting in his combination was the upgrades I had to do to the rear end and rear suspension. The power was too much for the Auburn differential (31 spline), so I went with a spool. The rear suspension was circa 1993 (South Side Machine lowers, Ford Motorsports uppers & an air bag) fine for a low 12 second car, but a bit lacking for low 11's/high 10's. Team Z upper relocation kit and adjustable lowers went in this fall. Soon an ARB.