Can someone walk me through timing the bird....
I know i pull the spout connector, do i set the crank at 10 degrees BTDC or 15 Degrees BTDC?
Then I line up the cam timing marks.
Ensure the distributor is pointed at 1 ( or is it close to 1 but not on it?)
Put on the timing belt.
FIre it up?
is this all correct
I would personally read the write up on NATO. Its good, and I've used it before:
You are confusing igntion timing with cam timing. Set cam timing first, then set the ignition timing AFTER the cam timing is correct.
nope that is not correct.
1st you set crank to TDC
2nd you set cam to TDC.
3rd make sure rotor is pointing at #1
4th put on belt
5th make sure crank,cam,rotor all pointing where they should.
6th tighten everything and button it all up.
7th pull spout connector
8th start her up , might have to wiggle dizzy to get her to pop
9th warm her up nice and set the base idle with the idle air controller not hooked up.
10th hook up the IAC and connect timing light
11th set base timing at 10btdc on 5sp and 8btdc on auto's
12th plug back in the spout and take her for a test run.
13th Double check the Throttle position sensor(TPS) is set correctly .90v-.97v should do it
14th get back to the shop time to pick up while enjoying a Beer!
what is can TDC? is that the 3 marks on the lower right side?
Do i disconnect IAC with engine running? and reconnect with engine running?
1 didn't know these 2.3t's had a CAN where I gotta go! Yes the cam timing marks are those on the lower right of the cam gear area. It should be almost pointing at the center mark. If your marks are borken or you just want to Use a straight edge centered on the cam bolt and Aux shaft bolt and there you go. Line up the cam gear mark with the straight edge.
2 Yes and Yes you gotta have the engine running to set the idle! Don't over look the TPS setting.
nope my marks arent "borken"... this really sucks not having a timing light... which way do i turn the distributor to retard timing... is it counter clockwise?
You should not be attempting this without a timing light. Lights are not expensive and easy to get.
Get one.
clockwise is retard
counter clockwise is advanced
what exactly is base idle? and how do i set it? Im lost there. When I got her to fire up as soon as I give it gas she starts popping real bad
1st you set crank to TDC (DONE)
2nd you set cam to TDC. (DONE)
3rd make sure rotor is pointing at #1 (DONE)
4th put on belt (DONE)
5th make sure crank,cam,rotor all pointing where they should. (DONE)
6th tighten everything and button it all up.(DONE)
7th pull spout connector (DONE)
8th start her up , might have to wiggle dizzy to get her to pop
9th warm her up nice and set the base idle with the idle air controller not hooked up. (NO IDEA HOW)
10th hook up the IAC and connect timing light
11th set base timing at 10btdc on 5sp and 8btdc on auto's
12th plug back in the spout and take her for a test run.
13th Double check the Throttle position sensor(TPS) is set correctly .90v-.97v should do it
14th get back to the shop time to pick up while enjoying a Beer!
base Idle should be 700rpm's
how do i set base idle though im real foggy on the process. Could base idle cause the popping i was hearing?
that popping sounds like its out of time. At for setting the base Idle get her running. unplug the IAC then turn the screw on the throttle body to get the idle set. The screw is on the linkage side. It could be in 2 different locations but both are on the same side of TB.
it dies immeidately when i pull idle air connecctor
sounds like you need to turn that screw that hold the throttle plate open. at least enough to keep it running.
using a voltmeter how do i check and set tps? what setting should the voltmeter be on?
Have you ever heard of searching? you know type what you are looking for in the search field and hit enter! its that easy. But for those of you that have to have it hand fed to you here we go! LOL
First you locate the wire to the TPS and use some stick pins or something like that to get to the wires not the insulation. Then I do believe that it is the Green and black wires. Set you volt meter to VOLTS and with the key on check the voltage at the green and black wires. should be set just a hair under 1volt. To adjust it you loosen the screws that hold the TPS onto the throttle body and you rotate it to get the voltage in the correct range! Then tighten those screws back down.
yeah my tps is at .04 volts.... nowhere near 1 volt or .90
I think it is shot
did you loosen the screws and rotate it. That is how you set it rotate it so it is setting at .97volts. then thighten the screws back down so it doesn't rotate out of spot.
no matter rotation it sits @ .04 and 4.75
which wire do i probe? green or orange?
Green and black. Those are the ones you want. While your here might as well check of this link. http://www.turboford.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=000055#000000
got a question again... got TPS set @ .95 volts.... now im back to timing... i figure a pretty much stock TC with a worn cam should idle a little higher than base... say 1k or 1100 RPM's.. I set the timing to TDC.. fired her up.. let her warm up... set base idle as best i could... then turned dizzy till 15BTDC... Connected spout... now my bird has an issue with starting... i have to crank and pump gas to get her to start.. and my alternator belt is slipping off...(im assuming thats because i dont have power steering belt on so im thinking that is engine wobble). But without accessory belts the bird fires fine.. underload she hesitates....
When I reconnect SPOUT where should timing go? mine goes to about 20BTDC. is that normal?
Factory specs with the pill/spout connector disconnected is 10Btdc for 5spd and 8Btdc for autos. With the spout/pill connector plugged in the timing at idle should be about 15-20Btdc. But your Spout in timing is dependent on you spout out timing. From my experience I suggest more Boost less timing. Dial in the timing stock and turn the boost up until you feel the Knock sensor effecting your timing during max boost. Then you can dial it back until the the timing retard is gone from the knock sensor. Some people like to kick the timing up a degree or two but more boost nets more power than more timing.
how do i turn the boost up?
Not even something for you to even worry about until you get it running right.
Honestly.
ok.. got timing all set everything buttoned up... idles is at 1k.. sounds beautiful...Back out to go for a test drive.. no power.... max speed maybe 15mph if im lucky....
Maybe you have an exhaust restriction. Drop the down pipe and got for another run if you power is there then you have a blockage in the exhaust
no exhaust blockage... it has to be in the motor.. not a vaccum leak... timing is 10BTDc. cam is on cam marks. Dizzy @ 1, TPS @ .94 volts closed. Idle screw about 1/3 of the way in. Could a water pump do it? just noticed today that i am leaking crazily around the water pump. could a loose water pump cause a pulley wobble that drains power? i think the water pump bolts came a little loose doing the headgasket. it is only leaking around the formagasket not from the weep hole.
Or I had one other Idea... what about the knock sensor. If i got the wiring wrong between the oil pump and the knock sensor would that do it? the 1 wire plugs for both were on the same harness.
Without belts the car sounds and seems to run terrific. but as soon as i engage my transmission the power is gone... its kinda wierd.
A leaky water pump is not good tighten that thing down. and yes if the water pump is wobbly that could put extra drag on things. Knock sensor oil sensor wires could get mixed of the connectors have been removed. And yes if the knock sensor was wired wrong that would just cut timing as much as it could until it detected no knock. If your sending wrong signal then it see knock all the time. That is if that is possible thinking the knock sensor has a two wire type plug. The wire color for the early models it yellow with red stripe. I'm not 100% on the new model wires colors. The water temp sender and the oil pressure are both the same one wire right angle push on plugs.
if you look at the drivers sife of the head... there is an oil pump.. that is the type of wire connector i am talking about.
A leaky water pump is not good tighten that thing down. and yes if the water pump is wobbly that could put extra drag on things. Knock sensor oil sensor wires could get mixed of the connectors have been removed. And yes if the knock sensor was wired wrong that would just cut timing as much as it could until it detected no knock. If your sending wrong signal then it see knock all the time. That is if that is possible thinking the knock sensor has a two wire type plug. The wire color for the early models it yellow with red stripe. I'm not 100% on the new model wires colors. The water temp sender and the oil pressure are both the same one wire right angle push on plugs.
are you sure you have it timed right? I had the same thing, except I had all kinds of power just off idle, and none when I was floored. I ended up being at about 20 instead of 10. Try moving your distributor around one way then the other and see which makes it perform better.
yeah its timed right... just realized i have an intake leak but that shouldnt not it either.
UMM< if you have a major leak around an intake. It will run like , that is unmetered air entering the engine which will not be recieving any fuel causing it to run lean, once it is lean you now will be retarding the timing so far that it will just puke and make no power, not to mention there is pretty much no way to get the idle set right if you have a vacume leak, if the idle is not right then you will likely be off on the tps settings because you have the screw in the wrong place.
ok turbo is shot.. so im installing the garrett turbo out of an 86 TC... can anyone walk me through the oil and coolant lines? can i just attach them to my 88 motor? i have an oil line that runs around the head to a fitting on the side, and a flexpipe plate on the bottom of the garret? can i run that flexpipe to my 88 block? i know it will bolt up perfectly to my E6 manifold and will bolt up fine to my exhaust system... im just real iffy on the oil and coolant hoses and the vaccuum lines... seems like there are less vaccum lines on the garrett.... this bird is my daily driver so i got to get it right.
I can't say that I used this info before but is should be what you are looking for hope this helps. http://www.turbotbird.com/ Then look under Tech articles and find the T3 swap on 87-88 turbo coupe and that tells you what you need to do the swap a Garrett onto your 88. If you look closely at my sig you can see the one water line coming from near the T-stat housing to the turbo. You can also see the line coming from the V/c too
is there much power difference between the garrett and the IHI? i know the garrett is a bigger turbo... but how much power difference am i going to see?
Stock you will notice a slight slower spool than the IHI. But you can make more boost with the T-3 than the IHI. As far as power you won't see a difference unless you up the boost and I don't recommend that until you get everything lined out and running good in stock form. Then you can up the boost.