my 88 stang still has a stock short block, pistons and stock cam.
I'm putting on some GT40P heads and was wondering about the lift and spring rates. Would 1.7RR be a good idea or are the stock springs too wienie to be leaving the 1.6s behind. Any info would be a great help. Thanks
The stock GT40P springs *should* be ok with the stock cam and 1.6 roller rockers. Really though you would have to check to see how they would be with 1.7 rockers. It depends on how used the heads are/how worn the springs are.....
So I just pulled the passenger side head off, D8OE cast into it, now my question is, where did the E7s go? But on other thoughts, I've read very little about D8OEs, can someone elaborate a little bit?
Also my pistons have reliefs cut into them, but also 0.040 punched into the top of them. Whats the deal there? This thing bored out already? Its an 88 Stang for anyone who don't know. I'm gonna go start digging up the old receipts now.
Seems the .040 tells you something.Measure the cylinder,
show a pic.
"D8OE" were also on H.O. 302s through '84 (and '85 w/ CFI) and S.O. 302s for a couple years past that (until they also got roller cams like the H.O. did).
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-tech/72317-302-351-cylinder-head-identification.html
I'm doubting that that stang has the stock engine, at least completely stock...
THey may have went to '85 on the S.O motor, but AFAIK, no SO with SEFI had anything other than the E6's from the factory...
Your motor's bores .040" over FWIW so it aint runnin the stock pistons....however they may be stock style.
Any more description/picture info you could give on them can only help us tell you what they are. Is there a small dish along with the valve reliefs?
I'll measure it and try and get a pic while I do the driver side tomarrow, gaskets will be here in the morning, I ordered some gaskets for a 93 Cobra figuring it would be appropriate. The passenger side is ready to get put on, I'm starting to wonder what the cam says, or if these are forged pistons even or not. There a way to tell from what I can see on top? This explains why all the mustangs at the local 1/8 track are a second faster than me when no mods at all, and I got plenty. Despite being a convertible or not.
Should I use the stock rockers from the D8s or the GT40s?
I'd run the 1.6 rockers ,better springs are a good idea.
No dish, When I last built the motor for my 84 Cougar it had the same looking pistons with the valve reliefs cut into them. There is rings from inside to outside, like the rings on a tree trunk, those are seen on the pistons, I don't think my forged pieces from the cougar motor were like that. If I got a lame motor, I'm gonna be pissed.
Which ones are gonna be the 1.6s? The ones that came on the GT40P heads?
I'll measure it and try and get a pic while I do the driver side tomarrow, gaskets will be here in the morning, I ordered some gaskets for a 93 Cobra figuring it would be appropriate. The passenger side is ready to get put on, I'm starting to wonder what the cam says, or if these are forged pistons even or not. There a way to tell from what I can see on top? This explains why all the mustangs at the local 1/8 track are a second faster than me when no mods at all, and I got plenty. Despite being a convertible or not.
Should I use the stock rockers from the D8s or the GT40s?
the explorer gt40p had the 1.6 ratio,I'd use them,if you're planning on a cam more agressive than stock, you will need different pistons anyways,my 86 tbird had flat tops, i now have the engine thrity over with decent size valve reliefs. take some pics it would help alot.
He has valve reliefs. And to add, plenty of guys here are running non stock cams on non-valve relief pistons......I'm one of them....
What length are your pushrods and what's the casting # on the block?
I'll measure the rods next I'm in the garage.
My pics are too big to attach it seams. I'll have to come up with something else.
My pics are too big to attach it seams
Email em to me.....
Paul_Flockhart@hotmail.com
OK, got your pics. Here they are.
It's a rebuild with .040" overbore. They APPEAR to be forged...
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/ENG1.jpg)
The block is a roller block -- clean as well I might add
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/ENG2.jpg)
I have no idea why the old school heads....That's a BIG combustion chamber....
69cc, maybe more. You're losing about a half point or more of compression from that alone.
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/ENG3.jpg)
Is the timing chain a double or a single?
I haven't gotten to the timing chain, I do however have to change the gasket, it seaps coolant.
The motor was a reman that I have receipts for but no specs, it should have about 20-30k miles on it. Thanks for all the help.
I bet that HUGE combustion chamber is slowing you down as well.....
they had to order different pistons for my engine,what cam are you running?mine look like his with the 4 reliefs
TFS stage1 with Twisted Wedge heads......for now.
Vinnie's runnin flat-tops too IIRC.
mine are flat tops, with reliefs, mustve been because of the rebuild
You definetly got a mixed up engine,If your not pullin the cam at least put a dial indicator on the lifters to see what the lift is.They might have milled them heads to drop the cc's.
Another ? is this still SD.Or is this carbed?
Its SD
If this is like a Jasper motor, there is a good possibility it has an SO cam...They seem to cobble stuff together once in a while. Check lift the way Kitz described...FWIW those pistons might be hypereutectic. They don't look like a regular sand cast, they seem tight. Hyers will look similar to forged.
They're STILL huge...
Well, I already put the new heads and lower intake on so I can't dial the lifters unless I tear it apart again, I was gonna verify the firing order to see if its an HO, Right now I'm held up til payday, I gotta do the timing cover gasket, drop in the new rad, tranny lines, and I gotta get around this spark plug issue on the drivers side. Plus I wanted to clean up the belt routing a bit and axe the clutch fan for an electric one. It might be a bit til I can start the thing yet.
With the old setup, D8 heads, UD pulleys, cobra lower/upper and a 70mm TB, EGR/Smog/AC deleted 3.73 gears and a AOD with a B&M shift kit, the best I got out of it in the 1/8 mile was a 9.50. Its pretty consistant in the mid 9s if I don't spin too bad. I would imagine if it were indeed an SO, I wouldn't pull that but perhaps you guys know better than me.
Now I still have the rest of the 99 Mountaineer motor that I pulled the heads from, Anyone know what the lower block has in it? As far as pistons and cam? I'm sure the cam is probably garbage but I'm curious what pistons ford used in those. Again, thanks for all the help and info fellas.
now think with a bigger chamber you possibly could runa blower:evilgrin: since you would need to drop a bit of compression with forced induction. since you already have that going on why not add more power!
Hypereutectic pistons from the factory. The cam is a roller with the HO firing order with a profile designed for more low and mid range grunt due to the heavier vehicle it was designed to move. That cam is leaps and bounds above the SO cam. Runs out of steam a little earlier than the HO cam though due to the shorter duration and shorter overall lift on the intake side. Here's a chart for reference between the stock cam differences. Take note that the Explorer cam is not listed. It's cut off the page on the right side...
To see how the Explorer cam compares
Advertied duration intake 256 exhaust 266
advertised lift intake .422" exhaust .448"
INTAKE CLOSE 66
EXH OPEN 66
INTAKE OPEN 10
EXH CLOSE 20
30 DEG OVERLAP (BOTH)
ICL 118
ECL 114
LSA 116
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/Car%20Stuff/stock-cams1.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/Car%20Stuff/stock-cams1.jpg)
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/Car%20Stuff/stock-cams2.jpg)
Good bit of info. The car is indeed an HO cam, I think I'm gonna hang on to the rest of the exploder motor and possibly build a mild HO for my Bronco.
Now as for the mustang, its together and running, sort of.
It appears I'm running rich as all hell, it'll run fine after startup but shortly after when it goes to idle down. It stalls and is very hard to keep the car running at a light or a stop sign. I've got it at 10 degrees a .045 plug gap, 40psi fuel pressure, tps at .98 and
I've screwed with the idle and I've gotten no luck, the lightshow A/F gauage reads rich all the time and we pulled the rear passenger plug because we thought it was missing, I've gotta pull another plug yet but the one was near fouled out in about 15 minutes. Any idea? Should I increase the timing or back down the fuel pressure?
map sensor or maybe the coolant temp sensor.
Negative, All sensors are new and the thing shouldn't run at all without the map
40 psi fuel pressure @ idle with the vacuum line disconnected is fine.
If the vac. line is connected and you're seeing that much pressure at idle, it's too high (But with a stock pump/injectors won't matter much -- too long to explain here).
You could open up the plug gap to .052" as well...
Just because a sensor is new does not mean it's not defective....Time to check for codes.
Im not throwing any lights, but all them sensors worked in the old setup, all I did was remove the intake and bolt it back on. Whats the easiest way to check for any codes? I advanced the timing and readjusted everything and that helped it a bit but its still running fat rich and I got a feeling the plugs are fouled again. Apon deceleration while in high gear is the only time I can get the a/f guage to read a little leaner but its in the stoich range. On hard acceleration it seems to run good, its the idle and drivability thats screwed up.
Hmm. All your vacuum connections hooked up properly?
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/Car%20Stuff/Vacuumlines.jpg)
As far as codes.....
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/V8Demon/Car%20Stuff/EEC-IV-code-reading.jpg)
I'm gonna go try and get some codes now. CanP is gone, out of the car. EVR is also gone, Only thing I got left is FPR which is hooked up with new lines, the MAP coming off the plastic tree, PCV, and of course the source for the plastic tree, Theres no leaks everything has new lines. I have however developed a mad leak out the oil pan plug =P I've turned the fuel pressure down to 36psi and the timing should be around 14 degrees initial advance. I regapped all the plugs to .050 except for cylinder #7 because I have to take the header off to get him out. When I pulled them out they appeared to be starting to run a little leaner but the a/f gauge is still pig rich at idle, I even made a nice black spot under my pipes on my garage floor. I just gotta get the car to lean out at idle and part throttle and I'll be okay. I'm assuming I'm running into this due to the smaller combustion chamber and filling it with too much fuel.
So I solved the problem. Apon reassembly of the upper intake manifold I left my other helping hand in charge of hooking up the vacuum lines to the MAP sensor, well his stupid ass felt the need to unhook the wire harness to it, so this entire time the car was running like shiznit can be pointed at him for not plugging it back in when he was done. Now hopefully I can burn the built up carbon out of the cylinders, the car diffenently has much more top end power. However, at partial throttle cruising highway speeds, theres a slight miss, or a sput from time to time, just one sput and then it might happen again later. Thats unexplained and I'm not too concerned at the moment, next up is a fuel pump and rear control arms. I gotta think about an ECU tune as well, I'm sure the stock ECU would help from a little updating on whats really under the hood and whats not there anymore. Nobody would have a TwEECer? or a good suggestion for a chip or tune on the cheap side would they? I also really really wanna try these other injectors I have which being a different subject, I'll post on another thread. Thanks for all the help guys, this car has come a long way since when I bought it in June.
Glad to hear you got it worked out.....WIth the Sensor disconnected I would imagine it was running all sorts of rich...
Pull the plugs and clean them up.....
I'd bet that would be issue with the stumble at light load.