The blue lines are before tuning. Apparently tuning is a must with H/C/I swaps. Never would have guessed I was only making 230hp before. Power drops at 5900 or so , probably valve float. I shouldn't have put the FRPP springs on with the 1.7 rollers
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/1969NissanTitan/img036.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/1969NissanTitan/img037.jpg)(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f364/1969NissanTitan/img015.jpg)
Nice! Amazing what a tune can do. Looks like youll be having even more fun with the new found power. I love the way your car sits with the body kit and spoiler. I have that front and rear but I dont like the rear. everytime I look at your car I think about putting mine on.
VERY nice numbers! Its good to see!
On the first run (prior to tune): Was the same smoothing used as the later run?
If so that would point to a lot of lifter pre-load on the before graph.
What was the smoothing value anyway -- for both?
As far as the "float" up top.....Is it possible he let off @ 5800?
I know the graph says 6K, but you never know.....
What was the part # on the springs?
Also looks as if you were running richer than 10:1 A/F ratio on the first run....What injectors/pump are you running?
Also, not to be a killjoy, but why are the blue times 2 minutes 48 seconds minutes after the red? Something you may want to ask the guy who ran the car......
Intake temp is high....
I ran the car myself and we started burning the chip right away. we made several pulls before we settled on a tune. I wanted to see the pre tune numbers so we ran it once without the chip after the final tune. I ran it again last night to 6200 rpm and the power loss is significant after 5900. I can't recall the part number I just remember that the springs were rated for .550" lift which I am very close to with the rockers i'm running
I don't know about the smoothig for sure but I think it was at 5 for both. the pump is walbro 255lph and injectors are 24lb fords
That's a nice gain (~40hp and 40ft/lbs) from the tune :D
Hell I should get mine tuned........
Do you know the RATE on the springs? Either way it sounds like upgrade time on them anyway....
I still can't get over how fat you were running without a tune....The equal smoothing rate on both shown runs makes me even more curious. What was the major issue beforehand?
one of the oxygen sensors wasn't giving a good reading. they are turned off now until I get new ones. i'm not sure what valve springs to look at but i'll be ordering some soon. are the 1/2" intake spacers worth installing? I have one but it's not on right now. I never degreed the cam and was thinking about doing that as well.
I have a 1/2" intake spacer. Does it add anything? Really I couldn't say. Maybe 5 hp if that, probably nothing noticeable.
Oh and what MAF are you running?
I have a one inch spacer. I noticed nothing powerwise on the butt-dyno. It DOES make injector swaps a snap though.
That explains a lot. Both the bouncing AND the rich condition. Thanks for the update!
)I was worried about hood clearance with the spacer so I left it off. I might try it when i'm doing the valve springs. the MAF is a 75mm PMAS. Would I notice any difference mounting the ACT in the intake rather than leaving laying on the intake? I didn't have a hole tapped to mount it and heard it was OK just laying there.
DO NOT PUT THE ACT SENSOR IN THE AIRBOX! HAVE THE HOLE TAPPED IN THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND PUT IT IN THERE! Get it? ;) Really it has to be in the intake manifold for the EEC to understand air intake temperature and correctly meter fuel. Sticking it in the airbox confuses the EEC and leaving it laying on the intake is just as bad if not worse......... In other words put the ACT where the computer expects the readings to be from. I did it with my Explorer lower but mine already had the boss for it that just had to be drilled and tapped.
You know I never got around to getting my EEC tuned, maybe it is time.......Seems like we have the same setup.
Hello,
Nice looking car, with good numbers also. I own an 88TC, and was wondering how much the dyno time ran an hour where you went? PM me if you can.
Thanks
IMHO, intake spacing is about cooling the air in the intake right (insulating heat form the upper intake)?
Well at WOT the air in the manifold is moving so fast that it cools the the manifold very quickly and removes the heat, so there's no heat to protect it from. I can't imagine that it is doing much.
I get it. I forgot to have the boss tapped when I was building the motor. I did some reading over at the Corral and came to the conclusion that it doesn't make much of a difference if it's mounted or not. I will have it done when it's out this next time regardless, I might smooth and polish the intake too. Oh, and I would never have put it in the air box
Highly recommend it
Thankyou, PM sent
Yeah, I agree that there can't be doing ALOT. I don't think the air would actually make a difference in the metal temperature, but the metal would have less of an impact on the incoming air that spends less time in the manifold. Heat still transfers one way or another, if the air cools the intake, the intake is heating the air; if the intake is at a lower temp, then it will cool quicker.
I had to find the order confirmation from 2006
Ford Racing M-6513-A50
Valve Spring OD - 1 500" ID - 1 006"
Seat Load - 100 lbs @ 1 820"
Open Load - 240 lbs @ 1 400"
These?
http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=44
If I'm not mistaken, those are stock apparel from the '93 heads.....
You'd have been better off with your P valves FWIW....