84 Cougar, 3.8L
FelPro Value Covers (Blue rubber or silicone covering a hard shell -- assume metal)
I've had a persistent problem with the value cover leaking on the passenger side, bottom corner. Retorquing every other day. Today will be final since torque now will be at 105 inch lbs (Ford max 106 inch lbs.).
Questions:
1) Other than star washers anyone have a better way to keep bolts from loosing?
2) Any idea if new bolts will solve the problem?
3) Anyone every tried wrapping the threads with some fire resistant thread -- if they make such a thing (not particularly a fan of blue locktight as b*#$@ to get off)?
4) Anyone tried silicone "Real Gaskets" from Tennessee?
5) Any other tricks/suggestions to stop this leak greatly appreciated?
Thanks
David
You don't like blue locktight so what about the Red stuff. More of a permanet thing. I guess you could always do some searching and find some of those Stage 8 fasteners. Basic a bolt with a special lock at the top to keep it from backing out.
I'll try them. Never seen any for Value Cover only Heads.
The 80-106 Lb-In torque spec is for the original cork gaskets. Maybe your gaskets require more torque.
Make sure the VALVE cover is not bent from previous over tightening.
Don't know if they make these for valve covers, but they would work nice. :burnout:
If your looking for a threadlocker you could try the purple color from Permatex. They advertise it as a low strength threadlocker designed for fasteners under 1/4" (6mm) that require occasional adjustment. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly.
yeah, i got a suggestion, but no one ever does this.
take off your valve cover and flip it upside down
lay a perfect straight edge along the side wth three holes
now ask yourself why the straight edge is not touching all the way across.
get a piece of 2x4
lay the upside down valve cover edge along the 2x4
place the round part of a ball pin hammer on one bolt hole.
strick the hammer with another tool until the bevel starts to work to the opposite direction.
keep tapping until the hole bevels in the opposite direction.
you know your done when you flip the cover right side up and you feel the holes bevel pointing upward
flip over valve cover and each bolt hole will bevel upwards.
next
dont use the rubber gaskets.
make your own out of napa 1/8'' or better gasket material.
those little keeper / snap rings make good valve spring shims:D
Thanks "ALL" for suggestions.
Softtouch
Excellent Point -- Will touch base with Felpro. Also Not sure how much torque the head will handle before striping threads?
JCassity
Had thought of beating down hole bevel "somewhat" but didn't want to make matters worse (bend cover or worse yet crack bevel hole). Will definitely take under consideration as tired of @#$%^ with this value cover.
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Re: Gasket Material.
"Real Gaskets" from company of same name are supposedly silicon gasket material and primary application is aircraft, but also supply auto gaskets.
Other than marketing, I don't know anything about them.
Anyone tried them??
the torque rating on any bolt is based on the bolts shank diameter and the thread pitch/per inch. It has nothing to do with the opposite surface it secures to. All of this with the idea that your fucrum is the proper lenght as well adds to the math.
The rating you are looking for would be if that same bolt were made of aluminium,,ie- the opposite surface. So, how much in/lb of force would it take to shear an aluminum bolt vs steel. Think like that and you will not strip out the heads.
To be honest, your complicating simple stuff.
tighten the lower bolts more than the uppers,, thats the way i do it.
The root cause may not be the valve cover. Have you run the engine without valve covers to see how the oil puddles on the left/right side of the heads. If they are over flowing, the oil return holes that lead back to the oil pan are clogged slightly or more than what the heads need for good drainage.
Take a piece of wire and pig tail the end and roto root out the oil return holes. If you cant bust through,, dont continue cause there will be a bunch of goop that will clog your pump screen.
instead,,,,,,,,,,
get your shop vac and reduce the suction end until its the size of a small copper tube or something that is small enough to fit in the hole.
Shop vac out the oil return hole.
Article worth noting on torque -- however doesn't address dis-similiar materials.
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/fasteners_torque/index.asp
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Forums access has been extremely slow lately???
yep, agreed,
nor does it include information about the extra valence electrons in the k shell of each aluminimun molecule either,, the information is critical in order to seal up the problem. you wouldnt want the additional conductivity property of aluminum to act as flint rock causing sparks so near to a fuel line.,,grin : P
Key point for me was dry verus wet and the amount of ultimate torque generated. Knew there was a difference but not "that" much difference. Always good to learn something new, even at my age!!!!
Your sure that's not the "s" shell :>), :>)
Take the cover and gasket off. Make sure you can run the bolts into the holes without binding or bottoming out on something in the hole.
now thats a good piece of advice there.
Softtouch Agree with jcassity. Excellent thought!!!
And if that doesn't work head to the parts store and buy some of those Valve cover bolt washer things that spread the pressure out around the bolt area. They sell them in the Mr gasket brand around here. I've sold many of them for chevy 350's seem to work for them might work for you if the other solutions don't work 1st.
:screwy:?? im lost but oh well, nothing new : )
jcassity (Followup per your suggestion):
Ever beat a steel value cover yourself and had good results (i.e no splitting / fracturing of bolt hole, etc.?)
yes,,
not sure where your going with this.
its pretty easy, just bevel the holes the opposite direction. The bolt head is what has them beveled inwards now.
the reason i said not to use the rubber gaskets is that there are metal eyelets in the gasket where the bolts pass through. This is a stop point where your bolt tightens but if the valve cover holes are beveled inwards,, it leaves a gap along the rubber portion on the pertimeter of the fit.
ie- your valve cover is stiting 1/32 or 1/16'' higher due to this.
the 5.0 oil pans have a long metal adaptor to prevent this from happening.
if you look at valve covers or oil pans without fender washers or adapators, the pan bolt holes are beveled towards the mating surface.
Try cork gaskets as well. I've been using Felpro cork gaskets on my 5.0 for years with no leaks (either with the stock stamped steel ones on the old SO motor or the aluminium FRPP covers on the HO I have now).
jcassity
Was just curious if you had ever beat a steel cover before and the outcome.
I consider this a "last" ditch effort if nothing else works.
thunderjet302
Have Felpro perma-dry on now. Just bought cork (original).
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Bought a piece of glass to check both the covers and the head to make sure everything is flat. Once disassembled -- this weekend -- plan to use all the GREAT suggestions to date this thread.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions on my behalf.
David