OK
I just did the the vacuum line set up thats suppose to get the boost to 15psi.
Hooked it all up, took it down the road and its only boosting to about 8psi
its a 88 with a IHI, was an auto car, now has a 5 speed, and 5 speed computer.
I bypassed the BCS so what else should I look at??
What should be done next to get a bit more power out of the car, cause it doesnt perform for .
I was thinking a cone filter, eliminating the rotted tail pipe and side pipeing it
any info would be great!
I know theres all kinds of threads liike this but im only making it because of the question about building boost.
thanks!
Please post a pic of the vacuum line.
Have you looked at the TurboFord FAQ (http://"http://www.turboford.net/faq/index.shtml") yet?
If you just have a vac source going to the wastegate actuator you will only get 8-10 psi. I dont remember how the "bypassed" setup works, I did run it like that for a while though. Just make a $10 boostvalve or buy one of those $15 ebay cheapies and be done with it.
Most definately do a cone filter, big gain to be had there.
Personally, after doing a few different cheap exhaust rigs for like 3 years (first a pipe out the drivers side off the cat for $50, then the stock y-pipe with pipes out in front of both back wheels for probably $30 [this was a most disgusting setup], then a 3" stinger downpipe into an exhaust shop dual 2.5" setup with dual superturbos and tails for like $200, which also sucked but was a big improvement.) I would just do a stinger single or dual and be done with exhaust altogether. You could probably do a full single exhaust turbo to tail for as little as $350, add maybe $100 for duals. Subtract a lot if you are like me and pick up the whole exhaust used from a cool person for like $150 total.
And then look, youve completed all the beginner mods for a turbocoupe and youre sittin pretty on 200-225hp and 275-300tq and you can go pick fights with stock 5.0 mustangs.
Back when I still had the 4cyl, just jumping together the two nipples on the turbo that normally feed the BCS, gave me about 12psi... Difference in boost is due to one of these fittings is different than on the 5 speed turbo...
ok I re did the lines with better hose and now am pulling 10psi and it made the car a different animal
but it will NOT idle
and its always had idle problems, it would stumble for a bit then smooth out then stumble but stay running
now it stumbles and dies unless i keep my foot in it
I only re did the rubber lines and removed the intercooler, and removed the EGR and cleaned it out, and tryed to stop it form leaking but it still does.
HELP!!
car HAS to be fixed for tomorrow so we can head from west virgina back to PA.
I think the intercooler coupler at the TB has a crack
could that be causeing this?
If you have a cracked intake coupler that is letting in air. That is after the VAM/MAF then yes that could cause it to idle poorly. I remember when I blew the coupler between the turbo and intercooler. It idled like . New hose and all was well.
the t fitting on the turbo is a different diameter inside on the auto car than it is on the 5 sp car . you can plug this with a pipe plug and bypass it to bring boost up a little more. also you can use a buttsplice connector in the line where you bypassed the bcs to get more. cant remember what color to use though. you can get up to 17 lbs with this method.
well we dont need any more boost
the increase in boost has made the oil leak much worse. I foudn the EGR was cracked as well as leaking couplers
fixed both problems and the car still idles and runs like
we are at wits end. The car has 2 major oil leaks and runs like hell
we have another motor thats been sitting in another car and we are thinking about taking it and switching it in to replace this one, but we dont know if sitting for so many years has hurt it or not.
This is his main transportation and he NEEDS the car fixed. I got it to were it is drivable, but it idles like but stays at about 1000rpm, but as u drive it the idle will float up to 3k and stick there for a bit.
We need help bad guys, should we take the chance pull the other motor, check it over and stuff it in? What else can I do to fix it?
I can tell you right now, swapping the engine isn't going to fix the issue, it's going to add a bunch more issues.
First things first, pull codes.
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/RetrievingCodes/retrieving_eec_diagnostic_codes.htm
http://www.turbotbird.com/techinfo/eec.htm
The idle jumping up the 3000 sounds like a TPS/IAC issue, but pull codes first.
thanks for the links
we are gonna go to the other car and take off the throttle body, IAC, TPS, and EGR that way we will have them if it turns out to be one of those(EGR is cracked I expoyed it for now)
I stoped the major oil leak on the main oil feed line but man it was a tight fit for my arm by the transmission but I got the sucker.
Ill post updates when I get home
any one else with advice just leave it here and I will read it later
Okay, from your first post, I thought you were wanting hotrodding tips. If you're trying to nurse a sick bird, you need to work the foundation first.
Do basic diagnostic work and verify the fundamentals. To reiterate above posts, pull codes and check the basics, ie vacuum leaks, hoses, egr, sensors, pcv etc.
Check the base voltage on the TPS, then do the "sweep" to locate any dead spots in the sensor.
It takes only a very small intake leak (after the turbo) to make it idle poorly. Double and triple check your couplers under a good light source to see if they have any weak spots.
Are you using hose clamps or t-bolt clamps on the couplers?
hose clamps
Well I went to our parts bird and pulled everything, and found our other spare intake and grabed it
I replaced the T fitting on the turbo and now itshiznitting about 12 PSI.
I replaced the intercooler couplers with good ones, the turbo elbow(on the front, the fittings were coming out of the old one)
replaced the TB with one that I cleaned and had a known good TPS and IAC on it.
replaced the plug wires
and re did the rubber vacum lines on the turbo
Made the WORLD of difference. No more dead spot in the pedal, check engine light only comes on at low idle, and when u dont move the gas pedel on the road.
The EGR is next, didnt replace it yet cause we couldnt find them, they were both missing off the parts car and spare intake. Its leaking HEAVYLY, so we know thats the issue now. and once its on, I can set the idle, and check codes for anymore issues. I would have first but i was stuck at my grandparents house with all the parts(family emergency) so i replaced the couplers, and figured while i was that far I might as well do everything.
Now how do I check the voltage on the TPS? And how would I set it?
It still has an idle issue. when u first start it it will sputter and sound like its missing at around 1k, then the idle goes up and sits at about 2500. Hard to tell because of the EGR being leaking and bad so im not sure yet whats the issue.
Any info on the TPS will be apreciated!
And I LOVE THIS CAR. I see why you guys love the turbo coupes.
12PSI on this thing and running better is a HUGE jump from the power it had with 5psi, and running like .
Next is a cone filter, and since the tail rotted off, a glass pack and turn out while my dad saves for a stinger kit!
12psi, 5 speed, and 3.73's and STILL gets over 30mpg, nothing wrong with that!
do they sell these at parts stores? because I think I am having the same problem you were.
If you think 12 psi on an ihi is nice.... I dont know what you were getting from your 5.0.
no the fitting is off a turbo from a manual car
and ive never driven my mark on the road so idk how that power is.
Im comparing to how it was before. Put a non cracked EGR on it and it still leaks out the back so it needs some more work but it helped some what of the problems.
Now it will rarely throw the CEL, and the idle stumbles sometimes but most times shoots up to around 3k, and can be adjusted down but then the idle stumbles and it stalls if u turn it down
Another thing is the timeing was 10 degrees out, turned it to were it should be and it pings like a bitch, turned it down some and it still pings
what gives??
Im thinking maybe the map sensor or something is causeing it to run lean is my guess.