Has anyone replaced the torsion bars with gas struts, where the struts are located under the package tray?
If yes, will you post some pics?
Thanks
I have not done this But thought about it many times. 1st pick where you want to locate the Gas Struts! Measure then length in that area. Then get an idea of how much Weight the trunk lid and such is. Then head over to the parts store. I know my store gets mighty lift brand Gas struts. They have many different mounting styles. I'd tell you to use the Ball Stud type. Lots of new one come with ball studs but just in case they should be able to get you some through the Dorman brand. I believe the size is 3/8" ball then pick the thread size. Or head to the Junkyard and find something
I'm doing that very mod to my bird. I'm using a pair of struts that came from a pickup canopy that the door was about the same weight as the trunk lid. I took the mounting brackets from both ends and I'm checking where and how to mount them. So far it loks like they will be mounting close to the rear seat braces. I'll get some pics of it when I get a chance to work on it again.
A guess, but wouldn't finding a pair of truck topper struts work?
Checking out the struts at the local Ohwhyme, it looks like there are a few struts for cars with big hoods that are close to right size. I was thinking one of those struts might be enough for the trunk lid.
how about this kinda setup?
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/Monte%20Carlo/IMG_3809.jpg)
Will something like that fit? If so, could all that stuff for the torsion bars be removed, or is that structural?
I don't believe that that anything connected to the bars are structural.
I think the X brace behind the back seat is the keeper.
Something like that could be connected to a bracket inside the trunk opening if there isn't enough room out side.
I'll measure them and the space they require tomorrow before the car leaves to it's new home
Being able to pull those braces from the trunk would really open up space back there. That would be sweet.
isn't yours covered up with that cardboard stuff?
I'll take peek in mine tomorrow and see whats in there. should be kinda the same as an 87, wouldn't you think
I'm thinking about these bits, not the back seat.
(http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16903&stc=1&d=1218341308)
(http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16904&stc=1&d=1218341308)
(http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=16905&stc=1&d=1218341308)
I guess, without having all the stress from the tension bars, you could probably take them out. but I would imagine they designed the hinge with that support in mind. It might need a little reinforcing after the brace comes out. It's going to be one of those build as you go projects I think. You also don't want it to twist the trunk up when the lid opens
Just got close and personal in there. The torsion bar part could be removed and still leave enough material to support the hinge pivots. Looks like the trunk has a date with a cutting wheel.
cougarman did a setup like this a while back but I cant remember the post. he had a few pics of his setup.
I put mine from the hinge to the decklid, he wants to put them under the package tray.:D
Hey, where'd ya get the remote battery box? and where did ya run the cables? I'm doin the same thing.
got some pics here
the whole hinge setup could work on the inside lip of the trunk, but will definately not work in the same setup as in the pic.
the entire hinge assembly is 2" wide
the lil' baby shocks are 11-3/4" fully extended and the shaft has a travel distance of 3-3/4". possibly more if the hinge is not stopping it.
The lil' baby shocks are 1" wide
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/crazy%20ideas/IMG_4061.jpg)
I think they can be mounted without the loss of any more room against the side
(http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee79/daminc/crazy%20ideas/IMG_4063.jpg)
daminc,
Is that a monte carlo?
The box is made by Taylor, the battery cable co, got it at a speed shop that used to be around here. Ran the positive cable along the pass, side and through the firewall. The neg. was grounded in the trunk. We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.:D
Our drip rails under the lid just don't look deep enough to me.
A bracket would have to be made, and side mounted inside.
still a good option to get more room inside the trunk itself.
the space used on the new hinge would be about equal to the hinge already there. just in a different place.
Here's the trunk struts on my wife's Cobalt. :D
Pretty much the same prinl as the Monte hinge.
I got an idea for a bracket just along the inside of the trunk gasket.
I'll see what I can dream up tomorrow.
I'm working on something that will bolt to the trunk hinges and mount to the back seat. I've been through about 6 different struts trying to find the right fit. Still not sure if this latest will work.
One big concern I have now is that where they mount at the other end won't be strong enough. Right now I'm using the back seat brace. That isn't as strong as I imagined.
i get tryng to mod it for mods sake but other than that whats wrong with the torsion bars? i think they work great.my mostang has the gas shocks for the trunk and honestly, ir rather a setup like the tbird in there.
The problem with the bars is they are in the way sometimes and you can knock them out of place while hitting them with stuff in the trunk. But I still like them, Old school, reliable , never wear out! I haven't really dug into this but what about mounting the gas thing on the Trunk arm just about where the torsion bar goes in! then find a spot in a straight line from that towards the rear deck and measure to find out how far away with the trunk open and closed. Then how much the lift will you need to hold the trunk lid up. you can get the blade Bolt type lift or the ball stud type.
Just from personal experience with the gas struts...keeping them parallel to the ground when the trunk lid is closed will be the key to a successful design. This puts the gas pressure at rest over a horizontal area, which evenly distributes the pressure laterally. Once you start tilting the angle of the resting strut upward, the struts will consequently start pushing the trunklid upward, causing gaps where water can get in. So...going from the hinge area toward the bottom, back edge of the trunklid itself seems to be the most logical way to do this correctly.
Engineering things on a convertible makes you solve problems a little differently. ;)
Any suggestions on keeping a strut compressed for installation?
Got the struts installed and everything works so far. Is there a "crossed fingers" smiley?
Here are some pics and a parts list, in case someone is interested. The first two pics show it safety-wired for installation. The third pic shows the passenger side with the install complete. There are plenty of strut choices, some have ball studs with them and might be a good choice. The ball studs I used were sold by a camper supply. At some point in the future, I might modify the trunk hinge mount by using "T" nuts instead of nylocs. That would make a nice flush fit.
Parts:
Mighty Lift 4408 x2
ball stud x4
nyloc nut x4
bolt x2
nut x2
washer x4
angle bracket, cut to fit x2
3/16 fender washer x4 (get grade 8 if possible)
safety wire
zip ties
's' hook or similar
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17704&stc=1&d=1227330837
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17703&stc=1&d=1227330781
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17702&stc=1&d=1227330781
Now we're talkin'/I like that.I've been wanting to add struts for a long time.Can you get a closer.more detailed shot or two of where the strut is connected to the hinge and behing the rear seat?Nice work.
That looks good. Do you have a video of it in action, opening and closing?
I can take some video but don't have place to host it.
A single strut is enough to open the lid, with two, you practically have sit on it to close.
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17711&stc=1&d=1227502541
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17712&stc=1&d=1227502541
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17713&stc=1&d=1227502753
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17714&stc=1&d=1227502753
sweet
I'm going to steal....er...BORROW your idea for the Sport.I promise to give you all the credit.
I hope you appreciate me getting locked in the trunk for this.
i appreciate it a lot,and I'll take pics when I get mine finished.For now,sanding the car is all there is.The Sport should be ready for paint by Wednesday evening.Hopefully the car wil be in the shop before the 12th.
Did you install an anti-lock in lever while in there, or is that next?
One advantage of having a gutted interior is not actually having to get in the trunk to take pics of the inside of the trunk.
I'll take some in-action video this week and post.
Vinnie, before you start drilling, let me know. I plan to post a step-by-step eventually but have bigger fish to fry at the moment.
I can wait for the write up,no problem.I'm still finishing the prep work on the Sport for paint.I'm getting a little excited........
The struts I used are standard Ford units, so you might be able to source ball studs and even struts from a junkyard. I found new ones at a camper supply. After removing the torsion bars, you might need to pry the bar mounts away from the trunk hinge so the struts will clear. There are some sharp edges in that area, so take precautions (I used a hammer and duct tape). It might be possible to do this modification without removing any interior parts. If you have access to the necessary metal working tools, you might consider reinforcing the mounting points.
1) machine as necessary 2 right angle brackets to accept mounting bolts and ball studs.
2) test fit struts and mark drill points
3) drill as necessary
4) disassemble the struts by removing the retaining clips at each end
5) cut and notch the fender washers so that they slide onto the ends of the strut and will hold safety wires (see pic)
6) fit the ball studs in place, with the strut ends attached
7) compress the struts and lock in a compressed position, approx. 14" total length
8) position the strut into location, moving the trunk lid as necessary
9) once the struts are supporting the trunk lid, remove the retaining wires and washers, then install the retaining clips.
interior
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w84/t3skidoo/?action=view¤t=MOV00648.flv
exterior
http://s174.photobucket.com/albums/w84/t3skidoo/?action=view¤t=MOV00649.flv
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=17785&stc=1&d=1228281311
Brilliant! My torsion bars are so worn out... I've been thinking about this and now I know how!
I call for sticky thread