Technical => Engine Tech => Topic started by: LJS30 on August 05, 2008, 06:21:46 PM
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: LJS30 on August 05, 2008, 06:21:46 PM
Well gents, my Mom's 83 Cougar failed California emissions miserably. To further this issue, a new rule implemented last year states that any vehicles posessing a leak of any sort that causes fumes or vapors will be subject to immediate failing. With that said, my Mom's 3.8 has all kinds of leaks ranging from the rear main all the way to the timing chain. What would you do? Obviously fix the problem, but here's what I mean. Since fixing a rear main, timing chain cover, intake, and valve cover gaskets would be labor intensive; should I just get a rebuild?
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: rancheronut on August 05, 2008, 08:41:39 PM
how many miles is on the engine now? if more than 100,000 then rebuild it or less then 100,000 pull it and fix all the leaks.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: Innes on August 05, 2008, 10:26:53 PM
Get some engine degreaser wash the engine down from top and under and go to another shop. I thought NYS was bad you guys have us by a lot.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: LJS30 on August 06, 2008, 11:12:55 AM
Well, it does have over 100,000 miles so a rebuild wouldn't be ridiculous. As for degreasing the motor, I wish it was that simple. Even without the leaks it failed nonetheless.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: rancheronut on August 07, 2008, 12:02:04 AM
well then it is over 100,000 miles. then it depends on if you want to keep the car for long time. if yes ,then rebuild away my friend. if no, then i'm sorry to see it go. what kind of shape is it in, good or ok? do the car have lot of little things wrong with it? i'm asking because you could spend a couple of grand$$$$$ into rebuilding the 3.8 and have a car only worth $500bucks.
if it something that you only plan to have for couple of years. then use the money to buy something else and sell cougar.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: LJS30 on August 07, 2008, 12:44:55 AM
Quote from: rancheronut;231005
well then it is over 100,000 miles. then it depends on if you want to keep the car for long time. if yes ,then rebuild away my friend. if no, then i'm sorry to see it go. what kind of shape is it in, good or ok? do the car have lot of little things wrong with it? i'm asking because you could spend a couple of grand$$$$$ into rebuilding the 3.8 and have a car only worth $500bucks.
if it something that you only plan to have for couple of years. then use the money to buy something else and sell cougar.
I see your point.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 07, 2008, 01:54:25 AM
Quote from: LJS30;230752
California + emissions ?
I think you just found your problem.
The second problem is the fact you could go to a different station and get totally different results.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 07, 2008, 01:56:45 AM
Quote from: rancheronut;231005
you could spend a couple of grand$$$$$ into rebuilding the 3.8 .
what are you smoking?
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 07, 2008, 01:58:54 AM
Quote from: rancheronut;230771
how many miles is on the engine now? if more than 100,000 then rebuild it or less then 100,000 pull it and fix all the leaks.
thats retarded, why pull a motor and fix only leaks.
pass some of that around man!:D
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: Innes on August 07, 2008, 12:51:30 PM
Quote from: LJS30;230752
Well gents, my Mom's 83 Cougar failed California emissions miserably. To further this issue, a new rule implemented last year states that any vehicles posessing a leak of any sort that causes fumes or vapors will be subject to immediate failing. With that said, my Mom's 3.8 has all kinds of leaks ranging from the rear main all the way to the timing chain. What would you do? Obviously fix the problem, but here's what I mean. Since fixing a rear main, timing chain cover, intake, and valve cover gaskets would be labor intensive; should I just get a rebuild?
You stated the car failed because of fluid leaking not emissions, well that’s how I took this info.
100xxx is not a lot of mileage you can consider fixing the problem first. And pulling that motor to do a partial rebuild is up surd. Just a to point this out for you if your motor is in good operating condition other than the leaks its not failing the emissions test because it needs to be rebuilt but because something else is wrong EX.o2 sensors / tune-up / to rich / you got to check that all out.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: dw85745 on August 07, 2008, 01:47:28 PM
Innes:
I just went through the a rebuild on my 1984 3.8. If I know what I know now, I'd have got a new vehicle.
Problem with the 3.8L is it is a flat tappet cam. This requires ZDDP additive to the oil, which is going to be harder to get in the future. Given this, and the fact you can pick up a car getting around the same gas mileage -- cheap -- I'd go new.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: rancheronut on August 07, 2008, 08:17:15 PM
Quote from: jcassity;231023
thats retarded, why pull a motor and fix only leaks.
pass some of that around man!:D
Quote from: jcassity;231022
what are you smoking?
because it lot easier to fix leaking rear main and oil pan gaskit on a engine stand, than it is laying on your fat rear under the fox body car!
i'm not smoking nothing! it a 1983 engine and has more than 100,000 miles on it right?
most machine shop you will have around $400$ or more for machine on pair of heads. if have to replace all the valve/valve springs/ any valve seats that are out of spec. my last set to replace every thing was $589.00 for the heads then in the short block you can have $300+ or more . you have to bore the cylinders/ install cam bearings/ turn the crank. recon the rods . you might need to deck the block surface or line bore the mains. my last short block was machine work bill was $411.89 then how about the engine kit can go for $300+ or more
so jcassity are you keepng tabs so far? 400+300+300=$1000.00 if your lucky! and that just to rebuild your long block! what if you have to pay some one to assemble your long block? my shop charge is $150.00 what if you have to pay some one to pull the old engine and install your new engine? my shop charges $300.00 for only that. so thats $1000+150+300=$1450.00
jcassity your not going to REUSE all your old belts/hoses/plugs/plugs wires/ oil/oil filter/air filter/ anitfreeze/water pump /starter/bad motor mounts. well that cost money too??????? so last one my shop did ,total for that was $640.00 so that $1450.00+640.00=$2090.00+ what about all the sensors and plastic hose to run to and from sensors that could be bad? that cost money too don't they???
yes !you could spend a couple of grand$$$$$ into rebuilding the 3.8
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: HAVI on August 07, 2008, 10:02:45 PM
Quote from: rancheronut;231129
because it lot easier to fix leaking rear main and oil pan gaskit on a engine stand, than it is laying on your fat rear under the fox body car!
i'm not smoking nothing! it a 1983 engine and has more than 100,000 miles on it right?
most machine shop you will have around $400$ or more for machine on pair of heads. if have to replace all the valve/valve springs/ any valve seats that are out of spec. my last set to replace every thing was $589.00 for the heads then in the short block you can have $300+ or more . you have to bore the cylinders/ install cam bearings/ turn the crank. recon the rods . you might need to deck the block surface or line bore the mains. my last short block was machine work bill was $411.89 then how about the engine kit can go for $300+ or more
so jcassity are you keepng tabs so far? 400+300+300=$1000.00 if your lucky! and that just to rebuild your long block! what if you have to pay some one to assemble your long block? my shop charge is $150.00 what if you have to pay some one to pull the old engine and install your new engine? my shop charges $300.00 for only that. so thats $1000+150+300=$1450.00
jcassity your not going to REUSE all your old belts/hoses/plugs/plugs wires/ oil/oil filter/air filter/ anitfreeze/water pump /starter/bad motor mounts. well that cost money too??????? so last one my shop did ,total for that was $640.00 so that $1450.00+640.00=$2090.00+ what about all the sensors and plastic hose to run to and from sensors that could be bad? that cost money too don't they???
yes !you could spend a couple of grand$$$$$ into rebuilding the 3.8
which is precisely why I didn't bother with the 3.8 in my '88. Been rebuilt once already, and another head (gasket?) issue, and I don't think it's worth it. At the very least a 5.0 will net you the same and would be better overall.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: daminc on August 07, 2008, 10:05:01 PM
Quote from: HAVI;231138
which is precisely why I didn't bother with the 3.8 in my '88. Been rebuilt once already, and another head (gasket?) issue, and I don't think it's worth it. At the very least a 5.0 will net you the same and would be better overall.
X2
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: rancheronut on August 07, 2008, 11:18:53 PM
Quote from: HAVI;231138
which is precisely why I didn't bother with the 3.8 in my '88. Been rebuilt once already, and another head (gasket?) issue, and I don't think it's worth it. At the very least a 5.0 will net you the same and would be better overall.
yep i'm in the same boat with my 86! bad bottomend ,so i wanted to keep a v6 in the car but for the money it WOULD take i could have a V-8>
EVEN with the high gas prices; i have found a fox body with a v8(factory made or not ) get more resale value than a fox body with a nonsupercharged v6 car!
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 08, 2008, 11:04:13 AM
at 100,000 or close to it miles, you genrally do not need all that machine work unless there is a very serious problem.
I did a 3.8 and paint for under 900bus with 330,000 miles.
At the time, the plasti gauge and mic's both said std mains would work, The only thng i would have done different back then was have the crank turned. New std rings yielded about .020 end gap which i wanted less but they worked.
so a std ring/bearing/gasket kit ,,, plus the cost of paint and a little bit here and there brought me back up to speed.
Like i said, the crank should have been turned and 10 over bearings.
If you cant assemble motors, hone your own block, lap your own valves, belt sand the head lengh ways full surface area, or own tools to measure / do the job, the yes your amount would be very conservative!!. My motor was given away to a guy here that drove all the way from Mass. I told him one of two things needed done, the crank need turned or .... the sping valve in the timing cover needed replaced. I am not really sure why I did not replace the oil presure valve in the timeing cover because it came with the new externall gear set. Anyway , I sent him home with the presure valve, havent heard from him since. To date I am just board wth the white coug, 20th is primary for now although i have all i need to do an HO in the white coug. The more I drive the 4.6 in the Exploder, the more I feel like that would be nice as well. So , until i figure out what I want, she sits.
Basing your numbers around someone else doing all the work kind of defeats the purpose of this forum dont you think?
see car domain for my old 3.8
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: Innes on August 08, 2008, 05:47:55 PM
Quote from: dw85745;231080
Innes:
I just went through the a rebuild on my 1984 3.8. If I know what I know now, I'd have got a new vehicle.
Problem with the 3.8L is it is a flat tappet cam. This requires ZDDP additive to the oil, which is going to be harder to get in the future. Given this, and the fact you can pick up a car getting around the same gas mileage -- cheap -- I'd go new.
Last I heard the 3.8 weak spot was the head gasket not the cam. That’s news to me, and as for the cam additives I thought they were for certain aftermarket cams (flat tappet) and for break-in only. Reason is something is missing in today’s oils but after break-in its fine that was the reason for pulling the mineral. Crane or comp sells this additive. Is this what your talking about and before I finish I’m no expert this is my hobby.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 08, 2008, 10:53:26 PM
i remember the oil topic, it was very interesting. Rotella still has zdp if that thread is accurate.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: rancheronut on August 11, 2008, 12:35:25 AM
Quote from: jcassity;231202
at 100,000 or close to it miles, you genrally do not need all that machine work unless there is a very serious problem. ok his is a 1983 3.8 right? in my shop, i have seen engines with 25,000 to 50,000 miles come in for there first oil change. there have been some engines that didn't make the 100,000 mark because back in the 70's and 80's the factory made them that way like plastic timing gears/burning exhaust valves and seats/soft cams/ a little spring to hold the cam from walking out and 1983 3.8 was one of them?.) , heck even during that time i remember doing valve cover gasket on engnie that would be so much sludge in there you couldn't see the rocker arms or pull the intake and the sludge would be all the way up to the intake valley pan>.
At the time, the plasti gauge and mic's both said std mains would work, The only thng i would have done different back then was have the crank turned. New std rings yielded about .020 end gap which i wanted less but they worked.
so a std ring/bearing/gasket kit ,,, plus the cost of paint and a little bit here and there brought me back up to speed.
Like i said, the crank should have been turned and 10 over bearings.
well what you did was not a rebuild .its called overhaul. he ask about rebuild didn't he? overhauling is a cheap short term way to get a engine back together and it not for long term. i have done those cheap OVERHAULS too but no way would i do my or his mother car that way.
If you cant assemble motors, hone your own block, lap your own valves, belt sand the head lengh ways full surface area, or own tools to measure / do the job, Basing your numbers around someone else doing all the work kind of defeats the purpose of this forum dont you think?
no, because there are alot of people that belong to these web sites that have never had ENGINE APART much less work on one, any way ,they come to these sites and ask all those funny Questions not everybody has instance notion. well all started life a dum as box of rocks. some one had to teach us. that why these sites are so importand to some of us. even myself as questions on this and other sites, don't you?? !plus some one has to do the work. lot of people pay some one else to have there long block rebuilt. most of them are called crate motor now days. some don't have the shop or tool to do the hole job or have the time to deal with a engine replacement.
with all the engines i have built over my life time, i'm no pro at the 3.8 and i'm the type of person with all the factory changes that ford have been made with 3.8 over it life time. my rides ,i would pull the 3.8 and put a V-8 in it place. i have yet to see one get more than couple of MPG better than the V-8 i installed in it place. so why wasted money on the 3.8?? maybe i'm the wicked one. yes i know some states don't have the choice to swap to a v-8 and that why i don't live in those states. they take all the fun out of fix up old cars.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 11, 2008, 01:34:43 AM
Quote from: rancheronut;231531
there have been some engines that didn't make the 100,000 mark because back in the 70's and 80's the factory made them that way like plastic timing gears/burning exhaust valves and seats/soft cams/ a little spring to hold the cam from walking out and 1983 3.8 was one of them?.).
NO,, that is incorrect.
No 83-88 fox had a platic timing gear
theres a lot of misleading information you have presented but I wont argue with your thoughts, you seem like a nice enough person.
pull and abe lincoln and do a little reading.........http://www.babpen 15s.com/editorial/ar/ar90134.htm
Lots of goodies in there for someone 4.2 project.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: Ductape91 on August 15, 2008, 08:46:49 PM
Quote from: jcassity;231536
NO,, that is incorrect.
No 83-88 fox had a platic timing gear
theres a lot of misleading information you have presented but I wont argue with your thoughts, you seem like a nice enough person.
pull and abe lincoln and do a little reading.........http://www.babpen 15s.com/editorial/ar/ar90134.htm
Lots of goodies in there for someone 4.2 project.
"1982-’83 The original flat-tappet cam was the E2DZ-6250-A. It had a hole machined in the front that had a steel sleeve in it that centered the spring-loaded thrust button. The short snout had an integral distributor gear machined on the front of it, and there was a cast, oblong with two bolt holes in front of the first journal that was used to mount the timing gear."
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: jcassity on August 16, 2008, 12:56:56 AM
i dont grasp your quote and response,, not sure what your saying there.
Title: 3.8 (Rebuild or Not to rebuild)
Post by: Ductape91 on August 16, 2008, 01:04:44 AM
it was supposed to include the quote by rancheronut you quoted in your last reply highlighting and reguarding the spring button in the cam for the 83 v6 motor, i dont know why it didnt post that also? i only meant to respond to that part of the quote because as you stated the other info is incorrect.