Hey guys it has been a while since I have written or updated my progress. Well here goes. I have a major problem in the fact that if the cat don’t run by weeks end, I may lose it. Divorce. Long story there. I have not had time to read all the other post because time is a short factor. PLEASE HELP.
I got the timing in, fuel leaks fixed and oil problem fixed. It started once for about 20-30 seconds and died. From there the only way I can get it to start is by priming fuel strait in. The motor runs real smooth as long as I am giving it fuel manually. I don’t have a fuel pressure gauge to check with but I do know that I have some pressure. I hadthe bad oring and it sprayed out. When I press the schrader valve it will squirt fuel for about a foot. With the fuel line off I have flow. It does not seem to significant. Not sure. It just seems to me like the injectors don’t want to squirt.
Here are my questions:
The injectors get the signal strait from the computer?
When I depress the bleed valve on the fuel rail it should literally spray out of it right?
How much pressure do I need to just get it to run?
I have a couple wires not figured out.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk123/superdavesds/jpeg1341.jpg)
The wire with the boot that is red with a white stripe comes out up with the fuel injector wires.
The other plug that is over here, just behind the battery, what is it? There is also a couple other wires with single plugs that I have no place to plug in.
(http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk123/superdavesds/jpeg1351.jpg)
the second pic is your EEC data port wich doesnt get plugged to anything other than to pull codes. the first one is either your oil pressure wire or temperature wire.
have you checked to make sure that your injector harness is plugged in? also check to make sure that you are getting voltage to your injectors with the engine cranking over. best to use a test light and watch for it to flash..
If it sprays fuel from the schrader valve, likely it has enough pressure to at least run...
You problem will be wiring or EEC related... Possibly the TPS is bad putting it into dechoke mode(shuts off injectors)... Really you need to scan system for codes to get a idea what's going on...
this is the 2.3l engine correct? I just bought a 1987 turbo coupe, if its the same engine i'll go look under the hood of mine and see where the plug is. Actually i was a v6 car and a 1987 5.0 on a stand.
Let me know so i can help you.
OK well I am going to go pick up a fuel pressure gauge and test that. Yes it is a 2.3t btw. I dont think it is the eec because it was running when I put it in the garage. I dont want to sound ignorant but can you give me a link on the process to pull codes using the paperclip trick. that would be a huge help. The car is an hour and a half awayfrom me and the garage is closed up soon. need to get her out of there. My time with the car is very limited. I plan to test the fuel pressure and put a meter on the number one injector to find out if I am getting voltage. Only question is which way to go, positive or negative, how much voltage will I be looking for? I just want my car to run so I can be cool in the cat
my car wouldnt cause the hose from the fuel pump to the line in the tank was dry rotted and was just dumping gas right back into the tank instead of to the motor.. especially if it sat rof a lil bit with low fuel...
massCougarxr7, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!! that is what my problem was. dropped the tank, pulled the pump, and there it was. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it was swinging from 0 to five to 0. after replacing the line, about 40. good enough for me. Had to fix a couple water leaks and then I was doing burnouts in the drive. I do still have a lot of problems with the car and I will post those later as well a progress. But for now, thanks for helping me save it. i Will get her plates monday and bring the woundes kitty home tuesday. Thanks again guys =)
Well I got the cat home and it definitely has some problems. I seen between 13 and fourteen pounds of boost once and it felt like pretty good power but then she squalled and quit making boost. Stopped to check it out and found I had a pretty good leak in the radiator. My temp gauge dont work so I got a 13# cap with a thermometer built into it and the water/steam in the radiator was about 240:flame:
I had a jug with a little water to put in it but not much. While trying to get it to a station to get water it got so hot it died. :toilet:
After waiting a bit and drizzling water into it, it cranked over and started. I added water slowly until it was circulating and looking good. I went ahead and drove the rest of the way home stopping every few miles to give it a drink but it just acts like it has about 50 hp. and it wants to run warm. If the turbo locks up and you put all that restriction on it will it make it run warm? around 210-220? or do you think I killed it? No water in oil or white out the exhaust just a severe lack of power and a little rattle in the top end. It had a little ticking in the top end. It ticked a bit when I started, assumed it was a lifter needing adjustment.
I know I am going to buy a replacement turbo. What do you think? does anyone have anything for sale or a company they would recommend?
glad i could help!!!!!!!! cheap fix but big problem....you might need oil pump they like to go at about 125,000 miles. my 5.0 is doing the same thing little ticks\knoks but they go away after a while of driving,, and yeah definately a frzen turbo would restrict power cause the motor isnt getting any fresh air,,, just exhaust....the thing is chocking!!!!!!run it and check the turbo if you cant see the thing frozen or squealing then i dont know.....
3he engine for now seems to be fine running nice and smooth no rattles or pings. I do have a high ide problem and have been throught the directions for setting TPS. provbly vacume. have to get a can of brake cleaner and start spraying. I do still have the issue of the red booted wire above. My temp gauge dont work. sounds simple but I cant find the sending unit for this. I thought temp would be the one from the center of the intake. the wet one. oil sending is hooked up and works fine.
If my memory serves me correct that Red wire goes to the Temp Gauge sender on the block right below the oil pressure sensor. Not in the head the BLOCK right above the oil filter setup. The temp sensor in the intake between the injectors is the temp sensor for the EEC. Then there is the Ticking noise. That is normal after an extended sit. Those lifters have to pump back up with oil, also the injectors are noisy! Then you have the squeal followed by the lack of power. Recheck your timing the belt may have jumped a tooth or so. To check that turbo pull the intake hose and give the impeller a spin listen for the sound of it hitting the housing. Then try to move the shaft side to side and in and out. The turbo should spin freely. As for the high idle when you set the idle did you set base idle with it fully warmed up and the timing set correctly? If so look into you Idle air control motor. Pull the IAC and soak it in Carb cleaner. Let it soak for at least a couple of hours. Then spray it out real good the last time shake all the cleaner out of it and bolt it back on.
the timing belt is still good. The squeel was definatly the turbo. The rear seal was completely out of it and I restricted the oil way back to stop it from pumping into the exhaust. turbo seized. kinda seen that comming. As for the timing I was reading to go with Ten btdc with the spout connector off. sorry! What is the spout connector? So, set timing. reppair vacume leaks, set base idle, then TPS, after that, follow your other instructions. lol got it. Thanks for the info.
Okay the Spout connector is on the yellow wire coming off the TFI plug. I believe that in 86 it is a square box with a pull out piece. If not it could be the older style round pull apart connector. As for what it does. When it is plugged in/connected the computer is in control of the timing when it is unplugged/disconnected the computer has no control over the timing.
Hey thanks. Found the spout plug, If I have the right one it has a yellow wire and a green wire in a square plug with a jumper installed into it. Also, thanks on the temp sending unit. It was near imposible to see but with your guidance and found it by feel. Temp gauge works. I will update after getting the timing in and repairing a couple more vacume leaks, and of course rresetting the base idle and TPS. Thanks again.
OK, Timing is at ten BTDC, Emptied about a half a can of brake cleaner and then a half a can of either under the hood and cant find any more vacume leaks. And a good clean IAC. I have the idle screw all the way out to the point of not touching the butterfly actuator. The actuator will not roll forward enough to contact the housing. Is that normal? With the screw all the way out it is still at about 1000 rpm and "Hunting" up and down a few hundred RPM. This is all with it at running temp. At starting temp it jumps to 2000 and comes back to 1500 pretty quickly. Then settles to 1000 when warm. I have good throtle response, no stumbles, or hesitations. IAC bad?
Well I have been toying with it for a few days now and Like I said before. I have the timing right but I can not get the ide set. I must be doing something wrong. How do you set the base Idle. I read through the stuff for TPS and Really think I am doing that right but I still have an ide of around a thousand and it wants to hunt around a bit. It is a nice and smooth hunt but searching around nonetheless. I have replaced the IAC because the other one was sticking. I read the DIY from cassidy and it failed that test. I have not found how to set the Base Idle. Does that have to be done with the IAC unpluged? With the idle screw all the way out the car dies right away when the IAC is unpluged. With it unpluged and the idle set screw cranked in a bit to 700 it runs fairly rough. plug in the iac and strait back to 1200. I am sure that someone here can tell how to set base idle so I can set the TPS properly. Timing is at 10 btdc with spout connector out and at temp. Thanks for the help.