Hello all. I just got my car back fresh off having a 351w installed.
When I received it back, when pushing the unlock button on the door, it will not unlock. It seems that both the lock and unlock button will actuall lock the door. It does the same thing on both sides. I am sure it worked correctly prior to going into the shop.
I know the shop will fix/repair this if I took it in, I just will not have the time until this Wed.... so, I was wondering if anybody knew of any trouble shooting tips.
Thanks.
when i got my 88 ony the lock button worked . ended up
being a bad relay.
this should get you started off real well.
ask questions when you your ready.
sssswwwweeeeeettt. I'll put it to good use. If I have questions, I'll contact ya for sure. I will not get a chance to start looking at anything until at least Wed . . . . . too much work, not enough PLAY. Oh well, gotta support my habbits.
Thanks, Hopefully I can get 'er whipped.
next time do a search,, in electrical tech.
lots of wiring diagrams there.
Im still trying to figure out what a motor pull/replacement has to do with the locks. I cant see anything associated or in common that would be disconnected at this time due to a motor swap.
maybe they blew a couple fuses and forgot to install a circuit breaker. ,,dono.
Sorry to hear about that man i hope you get it fixed but heres what my car is doing not as bad but still not doing what it should.
when i got my new 1988 T-Bird the door unlock buttons work but not the lock buttons anyone had that probelm before?
there is a lock relay and an unlock relay. most
likely one of them is bad. mine wouldl ock but not
unlock. it was the lock relay that was bad. i
fgured it would be the unlock reay. this is on
an 88 XR7
hmmm--maybe i should proofread what
i type w/ these 2 fingers
Ok, fine. BUT I did not even think about wiring diagrams. I may not be as technical as you, thus my problem solving abilities less than yours. I utilize this site for such reasons, to get in touch with individuals who may have had a similar experience. Sure I know about a search, did it, didn't find what I was looking for.... so I posted. I have NEVER looked at a wiring diagram anyway. I have a friend that will help me out on more technical issues, but he is not a computer person... so there is no way in hell he would know how, what, when, where to search.
If you want to know what the motor pull has to do with anything, they had to pull my dash, actually more than once. Sure this still has nothing to do directly with the motor. Next time I will not mention the motor swap, and I'll just mention specifics about the issue. I thought somebody might know of an easy fix... or at least a certain place to begin looking.
So read what you want into it, interpret it the way you want, but it is what it is.
Now, if I'm overreacting, I'm sorry. Maybe you were simply suggesting an alternative place for me to look. If that's the case. Thank you for your efforts.
The fuses look fine. Not sure about a circuit breaker. Will have to run that past somebody else, the shop, or do a SEARCH.
Thanks.
Thank you. Very useful information and I thank you. I'll try to find the lock relay and go from there. I'm sure it is something relatively simple... it's only door locks....
Post #3 tells and shows where the relays are.
I think you misunderstood me.
get use to the fact that this internet stuff leaves the human element out of the picture. I could have physically said the same words to you on the phone and you wouldnt be mad so dont be so crabby now.
Also, i wasnt second guessing anybody or anything about the comparrison of the engine pull to the door locks.
I was actually trying to visualize the circuits and how any of those up in the engine bay could be associated to the interior harness for door locks.
The association has been revealed finally and your right , your problem is simple.
I still dont understand what set you off,,,, I only pointed out doing a seach because i see you dont post much and perhaps you didnt know the site has an actual seach feature.
something just dawned on me,, i shouldnt have to explain all this.
I appologize, I mistook you. My bad. I'm sure the moderators appreciate the help and search suggestions.
Probably what got me is I am a member of another forum in which people go to GREAT pains to find things wrong with posts and to criticize people. I am very experienced on a site with this similar format, and I assure you, I always perform a search before posting. I understand the importance of posting in the correct area and trying not to double post or muddy the board up. It just makes it easier for all. I try to be respectful; and I try to help others becasue so many others have helped me.
One thing is for sure, I'm not overly technical. I'm not incapable, but I certainly have less experience than a lot of people on this board. So thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
It's all good.
I thank you for you suggestions, and for clearing the waters, even though both of us probably didn't need to, or shouldn't have had to.
i noticed something,,
I have a diy link down below and within it is another thread with lots of stuff. I included this thread as a link because this thread has power door lock wiring diagrams. there are lots of wiring diagrams in the diy link below so you can collect them. It just so happens that power door locks was missing in the diy so its there now.
thanks for posting that my locks in my xr-7 don't work either. One for my huge list of things to fix..
Thanks! I'll check it out.
as of yesterday, I am down to one thing on my list. Replace the radio bulb so i can see the channel.
I had a huge list and since sept, im down to this last one.
Yesterday i replaced cluster bulbs and found a harness not connected. Looks like thats been opened before as well. Now when i hit trip set/reset to use the "speed" function or clear a service light, i hear the tone. I guess thats what the little connector did.
day before yesterday, i added a three position dc power outlet. I took the new outlet apart and rewired it with larger wire due to my getting power from the engine bay instead of off the fuse box. I used 8awg flex.
My list just seems to keep pilling on. Oh well. I tell you to take a close look at the door lock switches. I have seen in many cases where the plastic parts that make of the frame of the switch cracks and fails causing the switches not to work right. Hope you get it worked out. Still gotta figure this one out my self. One my car if I unplug the drives side switch everything works fine. The switch seems fine but it is how old. Plug it in and they get all wacky. So it is unplugged for now. I have some other switches but they are from 85-88. I had to mod one for the passenger side about 3yrs ago. It still works great.