Ok I never did this job before but I gotta, found out I got a starting to leak head gasket. Im not paying the guy 500 bucks to do it so I will...
Im gonna do the manfold while im at it too..
I need to know the specs on torcing how much to torce it and what the specs of which ones to do first and etc...
Any + Information on this would be helpful too.
Thanks,
~Crusher
im going to try to see if i understand what your asking here.
are you sure you gaskets are blown?
what motor?
you may as well do the intake gaskets since youll be removing them anyway.
what bolts do you need .lbs force on specifically?
this is what a haynes manual is good for
If it's a V-6 or V-8,do both head gaskets.Never change just one when they are old gaskets.
Its a v8 5.0L Im doing both Head Gaskets and The manfold gaskets .... I never took apart a engine before so I hope I can do this :S..
Do your research,ask a lot of questions,and we'll help you through it.Mark the distributor location if you pull it.I didn't pull mine,I just left in the engine and pulled the heads and intake.No problems at all.It's not that hard really.Make sure you se off all of the old gasket material from the block and heads.The cleaner the better.Now is a good time to swap to E-7 heads as well.Cheap,and a step up from the E-6 heads,and did I mention cheap?Any 5.0 EFI Ford pickup has them.
yea but money is really tight, and Im not looking for speed anymore I just need a car to get me to a and b without a problem...
I don't have to take off the distributor tho right?
And how long u think it will take to do this job completely? or even to get to the heads...
I can get to the value covers in 15-20 min :D but there farther away I believe then them :-p
Don't rush, ask before you do something stupid, and don't drop anything into the shortblock.
So are you planning on doing this all in one day or in stages. I suggest stages that way we can help you as you go..
First things first what did you do so far.
I think it would take a beginner at about 10-12 hours. Depending how long you get jammed up with the exhaust and stuff.
I kind of need to do it in one day :S Its my normal car and I only have off tomorrow...
So far I have gotta the new head bolts, 2 gaskets, and the manfold gaskets :S Also anti-freeze and oil. plus seal.
WAIT EXHAUST WHAT u mean, this on top of the engine why would I need to mess with that :S...... <-- Noob
http://www.foxtbirdcougarforums.com/showthread.php?t=2984&highlight=head+gasket
Does this guild pretty much apply to the v8 and work :S ?
you need to drop the exhaust section that attaches to your headers or exhaust manifolds. That way you can take them off the head.
This is a really good time to add headers and h pipe if you got some extra money
<-- Poor as hell right now... Just got apartment and finishing off paying debts LOL... I just detailed a truck for 125 bucks for the parts needed for this job...
Is this correct for the v8???
I'm with vinnie on this, save your money till you can put e7's on. Most of the time you can find E7's for $0-$75 with no problem.
I got a major leak, where I have to add a quart of oil now 1st every week :S Also my boss is getting pissed how oil keeps spilling on the road in front of his house...
i assume this is your only car? that makes it awful tough to save money and not have a car (in regards to the e7 comments). when it comes down to it, all it is is nuts and bolts. keep track of where everything went. place bolts in cups and label them. *mark where your studs go*. hell, if it comes down to it, get a digital camera, and take pictures of everypart before you take it off, and match whats on the engine to whats in the picture when you put it back together.
honestly, if you only have one day to do it in, you may consider letting the shop do it. things can happen you cant always control, broken bolts, parts, anything, then youre left high and dry with half a car.
if you have a friend that knows somethings about cars, have him help if you can. follow jcassitys write up( v6 and v8's are pretty clse, and itll atleast give you the right direction.). spray anything you might think will be seized(ie. exhaust bolts, basically every rusty 20 year old bolt you see) with some kind of penetrating spray. mark sensor's and connectors with dots of paint if your wooried you'll forget what goes where. place parts on a bench in order from parts you took off first to last and reverse.
if it were easy, everybody would do it themselves. that shop you talk about is still in business for a reason.
goodluck
Keith
Are you sure you need head gaskets? 5.0's are not known for blowing them, and leaking oil sounds more like valve cover gaskets, maybe intake gaskets.:D
I agree. It sounds like you may be spending more money & time than you have too. ( Like I'm one to talk )
Are you losing coolant?Is there water in the oil?If not,your problem may very well be just the valve cover and/or the intake gaskets.That would sure help you out.Is there any white smoke coming from the exhaust?
X3...
IF you're NOT loosing coolant, I'd bet it is leaking at the rear of the intake... The cork end seals are famed for shifting and letting oil spew out... Also IF the PCV system is plugged(Also in the rear of the lower intake) they'll leak even worse... The PCV system has a small oil separator under the valve that gets blocked with sludge, just changing the valve and checking the vac lines won't fix it... This is even more common than the intake end seals...
That much oil, sounds like a pan or rear seal.
Where's the oil dripping from?
X4. My old 5.0 SO used to leak like a sieve from the valve cover gaskets before I changed them. AFAIK oil shouldn't leak from a head gasket.
No, oil won't spew from a head gasket like that...intake and valve covers would take significantly less time to do than head gaskets...which you certainly WOULD NOT be able to get done in a day by yourself....especially being as you've never done it before...took me and a friend of mine about 8hrs to do it on my old Cougar...but that included me lapping the valves in on the heads and installing new valvesprings and drilling/tapping an explorer intake for the IAT sensor.
I guarantee that oil isn't spewing from the head gaskets.
X5
Tell him if he gave you a raise, the front of his house would be much prettier!:D
The car mech stated its my head gasket :S... He changed the main seal, oil pan gasket , and value covers.... Now its the head gasket and manahold intake gaskets that Im changing....
Can someone give me the specs where the rear is located of the intake???? I got 4 gaskets and know where the big three go but I got a small one which Im guessing is the rear :S
Or park it on his lawn so you can't see the oil leaking lol
Also I did have white in the oil, anti-freeze was gettingmixed with the oil... also when I drained my anti-freeze some oil was spotted... No White smoke from the exhaust but Heavy White smoke coming from the engine bay when warmed up when stopped waiting for a light or stop sign... it also smells bad like burning oil... maybe because it is buring oil :-p
Dude that doesn't sound right. How did he come to the bad HG conclusion? Is he still chasing a leak and now he says head gasket?
He first said and told me originally it was my intake gaskets, He wanted like 350 to replace them I said **** it and let it keep leaking thru there... It did leak thru the main seal and oil pan gasket I saw it with my own eyes... and the value cover gasket was aswell, it was really bad on the driver side... But when I sent the car back pissed off because the leak from the manfold (intake) Gasket got worse. I told him to just change it for the 350, but He didn't he said he cleaned up the engine and realized it was the head gasket the oil was coming from... He wanted over 1k to replace that and I told him **** that.....
I bought the dam car with all these problems for 2k and have over 2k into it , and the cars not even worth 2k :S ....
God I hate these 86 Cougars.... If this car still leaks when Im done with it tomorrow... Im gonna really light it on fire and just buy a ****ing cheap 500 dollar car...
Minor hijack, but one of my valve cover gaskets is leaking and I was curious, do I have to pull the intake to get the valve covers off, or can the get past without having to pull the intake. I've got the stock non-HO intake.
I had to pull up the Intake above the valve covers, it wasn't hard :S took like 15-20 min to take off my first time... just make sure u mark where each line goes.... Also there is a evil bracket in the back of the engine....
Is this normal...
(http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2683/p1210014xj2.jpg)
and...
(http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/6766/p1210015rf4.jpg)
I saw anti-freeze dripping... a little bit when I took it off... Please note that my anti-freeze was drained from the rad before I saw this...
Is there a gasket that goes here????? or something..
Yes there is supposed to be a gasket... Appears to be some old pieces on the throttle body(dark areas upper left)... The hoses can be blocked off, or a longer one used to connect the nipples... Still not to have a vac leak, it needs a gasket ot at least a coating of RTV(only use the silicone IF the water is blocked off as it may weep coolant)...
EDIT... Actually it's the opposite side of the EGR spacer that needs the water sealed... There will also be a gasket between the spacer and upper intake, repl both...
(http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/576/p1210002tu8.jpg)
(http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/2394/p1210003sx2.jpg)
(http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/4289/p1210004jo5.jpg)
How do I disable the cable to the throttle body or what ever that cable for the throttle is called....
Throttle cable + cruise control cable and the Kickdown cable for the trans both connect to the throttle body.
The easiest way is to remove the two bolts that hold the bracket to the throttle body.
Then Remove the pin that holds the kick down cable (if you have a plastic bushing here replace it with the aluminum one).
Finally the throttle cable just snaps on, so use a flat blade screwdriver to pop it off.
Just found out that my head gaskets good my neigbor did a test, its in the rear intake gasket... My only problem is I can get the dam header bolts to get in, and its ****ing g me off..
Less typing more wrenching....
(At least it wasn't a head gasket, because if this little bit of work frustrates you, a HG replacement is not for you.)
too bad you don't have an ho upper and 60mm throttlebody laying around to put back in.
I'd do alot of research before you start. For example:
1) What is the age and mileage on the engine?
2) Does it have a flat tapper cam or roller cam (See my post on Oil if a flat tappet cam before you start)?
3) Ford used a number of different heads which require different torque specs as well as torquing at different degrees?
4) Recommend you buy new Torque to Yield bolts?
5) Lastly, consider Murphy's Law (what can go wrong will!!)
6) Does the local machine shop have the capability to remachine and magnaflux your heads?
Lastly, give do consideration to Murphy's Law. For example, if you break a bolt, do you have the tools and space to extract it -- Some of the exhaust is pretty tight!
Based on your previous posts, this job may be a little to difficult at this juncture unless you have a good friend who will hold your hand.
--------------------
FWIW I needed mine done. Had 160k miles and opted because of mileage to have the engine rebuilt. After rebuild, found out this was a flat tappet cam and potential ZDDP oil issue, which I would have calculated in my decision of buy new or rebuild.
Jobs all Done.. Finally took me all day, I got a exhaust leak on the out side tho because I was taking apart everything for a head gasket job.... For a intake there is no need to remove the header bolts...
good job,,
now delete those throttle body coolant lines.
If you have an active EGR are they needed?
They're not on a Cobra intake...
LOL I had a Cobra intake for 3 years and forgot that it doesn't have them.