Well a few days ago my fathers 88 LSC started fine on the way out of his house... After stopping for gas the car wouldnt start so he got a jump and was on his way. The next few times he tried starting the car if it was cold the car started right up if its warm it turns over real slow kinda like the battery is real low and eventually will not start. I replaced his altenator, battery and ignition module which i guess is the TFI not the ignition module ( Battery and Altenator both tested bad). Now cold it starts right up no problem and with the new parts once it warms up it turns over alot more before starting up??? It doesnt turn over real slow but just takes alot longer to start the car??? ANy ideas and help would be appreciated...
Ok next problem he was driving today and pulled into a gas station and car stalled and would not start back up just turned over real slow.... He let it cool down a little and tried starting it again and it turned over real slow and than kicked in started??? This is driving me crazy.Any ideas on to what it could be he thinks starter is getting too hot thats why its not starting but that would not caus it to stall???????????
Chris
Turning over slow when hot is usually a sign of a bad starter...
Stalling, on the other hand, could be any of a million things. Fuel pressure OK? IAC and TPS working properly? When the TPS went bad on my T-Bird the thing would stall when it was shifted into gear. Always started right back up, though, but my starter was OK ;)
The probem seems to be only when the car is warm??? cold it seems to start right up once warm it takes alot more turning over tp start it up. We thought the starter as well due to the slow turning over but the stalling is a mystery to me. This all started last wednesday?ONce it stalls it dont want to start back up once it cools a bit it evetually starts after turning over real slow it kicks in and starts??? Im baffled.
It's common for starters with worn end bushings to "drag" when hot... Repl it and fix your problem...
yeah but what about stalling???
It sounds like you have a power or ground issue that gets worse with heat (resistance increases with temperature).
As the car heats up, some resistance is increasing to a point where your system voltage starts to drop to a point where the car won't run. Inspect the positive cable from the battery all the way to the engine. Make sure everything is tight with no corrosion. Also check the negative battery cable from the battery to the engine block. I would remove it from the block and clean it and re-bolt it down.
Ok got some new information went to look at car today and talk to my father. The car stalled when he pulled up to the gas pump and he thinks he just ran out of gas (he usually never lets it get that low). But I did notice something I didnt know before if you start it when its cold starts right up with no problem. Once car gets warm still seems to still be fine BUT once you take it out of gear and put it back into park it idles real real low and wants to stall (which it has done once or twice on him) which then leads to the slow starting but im pretty sure his starter has bit it so thats gonna be taken care of. WHy would car run like once warmed up only after taken out of park and put back into park?? I hope im explaining it correct. I also got a code reader and here is the codes I pulled which the book dont really help finding out why or what. They need to dummy it up some more and just say this or that needs to be changed.
Key on Engine off
code:
14
34
Key on Engine running
code:
12
13
21
22
34
44
94
P.S. I just got a call from my father andall three times he stopped and put it in park it stalled? It started right back up but it stalled none th less. Im hoping someone will let me know what the codes mean.
Chris
tune your tps sensor. If you dont know what that is, do a search.
14 Ignition pickup was erratic
E4OD Transmission diesel RPM sensor
34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test EVR - (O, R, M)
12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too lowEVP sensor is/was high PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range
13 (O) ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO)
(R) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high)
(M) ISC sticking, open ITS circuit or TP sticking
21 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range
34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range
22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
44 AIR system inoperative
94 AIR system inoperative
Transmission TCC circuit/solenoid problem
http://www.thorssell.net/hbook/2digit.html
Did you do the test hot, a cold engine will give codes...
AND what order were they originally registered??? ALWAYS fix the first code then retest...
yes the engine was hot when tested. on the first two with engine off 34 came up first than the 14.
on the 2nd test with engine running this is the order
22,94,44,34 again,13,12,21
Still sounds like a system voltage problem. Check your grounds.
yeah thats what i was going to do. I also got some advice to maybe change the TPS... I dunno I need to get it fixed soon.
Not a bad idea to check grounds... Then fix the 21(temp sensor) and retest... Forget the TPS you have no code for that...
Anybody know how the Hell it can give a 14 on a KOEO??? Erratic ignition??? It friggin ain't running...
The 34 on the KOEO likely ain't a big deal... Probably more older 5.0s have that one than any other, repl the position sensor on the EGR valve if it worries you......
I will change the temp sensor I have no clue how that one came up thats what it said???? It dont worry me at all but my father hates breaking down and it is a pain in the a$$ everytime you stop and put your car in park you stall...
My temp sensor was making my cougar stall at stops. and wouldn't let it start and idle. was using the 2 foot driving method till I replaced both sensors.
The 14 has to be a continuous memory code.
Do the tester instructions tell you how to seperate the on demand codes and the memory codes?
Do they tell you how to reset the memory codes? If you have'nt disconnected the battery lately, you don't know how old the memory codes are.
Reset them and see if they reoccur.
The 14 could mean you have a bad PIP emitter in the distributor.
I have seen one sensor shorting flake out the whole system. I would also recommend unplugging each sensor listed with a code one at a time and reflash your codes.
The goal is, if you unplug one and all the other codes go away except the one unplugged, you've found the problem.
I will change the temp sensor today is there 2 of them??? I hear alot about the PIP what is it.. I dont know if the book says how to dstiguish between the memory and on demand codes. It does tell you how to reset all codes which I will try today after replacing the temp sensor.
The one for the EEC, is two pr0ng and mounted in the water transfer tubes on the intake(near #2 injector)...
There will also be one in the heater hose near the fire wall for the EATC and another SENDER on the intake to operate the dash gage, these are not your problem...
Ok i went to get the temo sensor and they only had 1 listed and it is the one that is in the front corner of the motor that screws in directly to it and has one connection on top??? Isthat the one your talking about
Nope... Reread my last post...
i did and the parts store did not have any other sensor listed??? DO you have a part number or maybe a pictre of it to help me out on where and what exactly it is. Or is it named something else and I just asked for the wrong part...
Chris