So finally after waiting all winter I was able to start working on my bird again, a few days ago I started putting together the front suspension and although almost everything needed to be modified in one way or another, I managed to get it all bolted together.
Unfortunately I still have a few issues that need to be solved. First off, my tire is rubbing on the coil-over spring but I'm assuming that can be easily solved with a spacer. Second, with my new steering rack (fox) and spindles (sn95) the tie rod ends are coming up a few inches short and are also too big to fit through the spindle. Hopefully for this I can just buy new tie rod ends for a SN95 mustang.
Any information would be appreciated so I can move on with this project, Thanks!
This is a list of the parts I'm using;
- 1996 SN95 Spindles
- QA1 Fox Mustang Tubular K-member
- Granatelli SN95 Mustang Tubular A-arms
- KYB GR-2 Struts
- Granatelli Coil-over Kit
- Unisteer Fox Mustang Steering Rack
- Maximum Motorsports Caster/Camber Plates
Here are some pics...
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1083.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1088.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1091.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1108.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1110.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1112.jpg)
(http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a175/sdupuis/LatestTbirdPics/IMG_1115.jpg)
Thanks again,
Steve D.
i'm jealous. that is smokin.
also jealous.... what is going to be placed in that thing for the power plant.
Lookin good.
On the tire rubbing, is the wheel offset for SN95 cars the same as your bird? Could make a difference.
Did you have the rotor in place when you mounted the wheel?
I see no rotor in the pics, so Im guessing not. But I know nothing about SN95 stang set ups, but arent the rotors and hubs 1 piece like the older set ups? or are they 2 piece?
Sweet set up man, thats gonna be one serious bird!!
You're right, I forgot the rotor. Duh! I guess I'm just used to the rotor and hub being integrated. Well, that sure is an easy fix. :D
So now it's just a matter of figuring out what parts I need to fix my steering issue.
Thanks for all the compliments!
Midget28, I'll be running a 460.
- Steve D.
I think what is going on with you tie rods is that you are using a Mustang K-member. You were right to use SN95 control arms, so that you could get the same length as your original '88 arms, but the reason the tie rods it too short is because the '88 Bird had its a-arm mounts further inboard than a fox mustang did. If you had used fox arms, you would be able to reach a little closer. I am still not sure if that would work for you though. When I put a k member, and matching arms from a fox mustang, (before I knew that Chuck W made mounts) I still had to use SN95 inner and outer tie rods to make them reach my SN95 spindles with enough threads engaged to make them safe. The whole reason I changed mine was to replace my broken round mounts and use Mustang poly mounts.
Im pretty sure you would need to switch over to SN95 inner tie rod ends, tie rods, and outers to solve your issue.
+1
You'll need new inners and and outers from an MN12 Bird.
I'll call Unisteer tomorrow to make sure I can swap out the fox inner tie rods for SN95 ones, hopefully it won't be an issue.
Thanks for all the help!
The threads where the inners mount to the rack should be the same.
Are you planning on straight line racing?
The K and control arms are for straight line, the CC plates for the twisties. If you were planning on the latter, I'd suggest checking the subframe rails for stress failures and reinforcing the A/S bar mounts.
i used this (http://"http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_13&products_id=452") kit to solve the same issue.
they also offer it in tapered stud version(MMTR-7)
Buying new inners and outers, and having the inners professionally installed ended up costing about the same as that kit. That kit's probably easier.
I guess if my only two choices are either that kit or buying the SN95 parts I'll go with the kit since I would only be saving a few bucks doing the swap, and it would be more work.
t3skidoo, There were no visible cracks in the framerails, and I've had Kenny Brown subframe connectors welded in. I'm not sure what im doing for an anti-sway bar yet.
Regarding the MM kit, you might price check the parts before deciding.
Regarding the structure, chances are good the A/S bar mounts and frame rails are okay, but you want to verify, esp. if the car's been driven hard. They get stressed from hard cornering.