Well I was stupid, and didnt measure out how much resin I used to add the proper amount of hardener, so the mixture is out of wack(I am now measuring it out this time)
My question is will it harden? Or do I have to pull it all off and mix a new batch and start again?
anyone? Im home from school today and I want to work on the car, so i need to know! I already went and bought some containers so I dont mix the wrong amounts again!
I would say it's not going to harden and has to come out.
I am unfamilliar with the material property "out of wack."
I don't know much about fiberglass specifically but I've had a fair amount of experience with epoxies. Chances are, if its not hard after 24hrs it probably will remain tacky.
Can you pull it off and go to town with a paint removal attachment and a drill to get down to a clean surface?
well
im gonna have to get some thinner or something and try to get it off.
its been about 12 hours and its tacky, the first small batch i did should be fine second one i doubt will.
No biggy, first time i messed with the stuff
yea, if its been that long, then it probably won't cure.
It's all part of the learning experience my friend.
What are you glassing up? I can only hope its a 4 ft tall wing.
Heat will help it harden. Fiberglass resin does not like cool air at all, so if you're working on your car at under, say, 70 degrees, it will take forever to harden. Try hitting it with a heat gun for awhile (don't overheat it, you just want it to be warm)
Try heat, but you're probably SOL. Some epoxies will never cure if you don't mix them correctly.
daboss,
i found fiberglass to be an incredible pain. while trying to fill in the holes in the engine bay i found some stuff called ducky fiberglass. it's a patch you just cut and stick then let UV rays from the sun hit it and bam...perfect every time....no mess, no mixing...stuff is awsome.
http://www.boatersoutlet.com/browseproducts/Ducky-Peel-N-Patch-Fiberglass-Kit.HTML
making patch panels for my rotted rear quaters, trunk lid, and front fenders.
Not rediculious gay things.
But I have learned, and as of right now, its actually not that hard. get the correct measurement containers, and its a peice of cake. Might try to fab up some stuff next. Fiberglass sub boxes, replacement panels(mostly interior), stuff like that.
I will try heat to make sure the first patch has fully cured before i sand and do the next layer.
It was about 68 last night when I put it on, and droping, hasnt hit 60 today, so Im guessing that hurt me alot.
Gonna pull the lid and fenders and try inside.
Hey bubba!! hope your laying that on good grinded steel.
Heat will help cure it,If it don't you can still use the heat to get it off. Not a bad thing to read instructions some times!!
instructions?
Sometimes they help! I usaully read them after the fact,just to see where "maybe"
I srewed up!!
lol
Now that sounds right.
Which is soon followed by an "I knew that...."
I read them, and I guessed on the mixture haha
and yep bought a freaking 15!!! dollar paint stripping wheel, and all sorts of good stuff to get everythign done
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After having problems with using the stated mixture, I always use twice the recommended hardener now (have to buy additional). Gets nice and hot by itself and begins to dry after about 10 minutes - then comes the grinding and sanding. An hour later its ready to sand.
For quick jobs, I just spray the hardener in and usually use way too much. It gets to be up to 1 part hardener to maybe 4-5 parts resin. Needless to say, I have several tubes of hardener on hand. I love working with the stuff but you need good ventilation. Also, it sucks to sand bowl shapes perfect.
thats the info I need
my friend came over while i was preping the lid
broke my fing heat gun, so now I have to see if it will cure over night its
12.44 and I removed, stipped, rust proofed, and fiber glassed my trunk lid.
I took some pics of the glass drying but ill post tomorrow I want to pass out....
so much FUMES!! 2 dual fans running on high, and im still feeling it...
Here you guys go
it came out better this time, gonna use more hardener in the next batch for the second layer, just to be safe. But its nice and hard, except at the edge where i folded it over, gonna use two pieces for the second layer.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0412080040.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0412080041.jpg)
hey, thats going to be alright
Are those your drums?
Yep
used to play for 3ish years. They are so out of tune I cant stand to play them. Just need to get some more resin, some bondo, and sand away, put the next layer on, sand, bondo, sand, prime, and paint. Doing a two tone trunk, since I cant afford to paint the whole car, Im only fixing where I can make it look decent. Bought this rust disolver, and it works AWESOME, cut out most of it, and sprayed the stuff in there, came home and it cleaned it up alot. Car might look good after all. Id rather do metal, but carting body parts to school to weld is not practical so this will do nice.
Open a garage door and work next to it or something, even if its colder. Fiberglass fumes, along with paint fumes, will do nasty things to you without you even knowing it. Fresh urethane paint is the worst...
Even with a wind tunnel effect drying the car after spraying on urethane, 4 hours of drying time wasn't enough before I started to bolt certain things back on so that I could get home and to work. Got very sleepy fast so I said screw it and took even more time off - nothing is worth risking your life over.
Yea I got another fan, and i have every window in my basp00get working (we have no garage, all work I do is in the yard on the car, or in my basp00get, sucks)
Got another thing of resin, some extra hardener, bondo, new heat gun, more mat, and Im ready to go!
spend some cash on a 90 amp wire fed welder my guy.
its not hardcore but it works fantastic for what you are doing.
I got mine from Harbor Freight for about 100$ Keep your eyes on the paper... theyre onsale every now and then.
^what he said... I commend you for trying to fix the body yourself, but trust me, do it right the first time... will save many hassles in the long run, just ask my '85 cougar what happens when you dont do it right the first time?:shakeass:
Well its the trunk lid, front fenders, and rear quaters. Car has lots of underside rot, so this is to just make it look good. I have cut all the rust out of the lid, and treated it all, striped the entire face to bare metal. So it is done right, just easier. So many bends, and angles would have been a PITA to replicate. The glass has been awesome for that. Got the second layer on the front, and one side sanded and ready for a skim coat of bondo! Came out great!!
Pics tomorrow cause its 3am and im tired
The next one will get welded. this ones just practice
Well if I wanted to weld, I could have brought it to school
This car is just to get me around, so fiberglassing rot holes is perfect, and quick.
then if and when you hit somthing theres nothing there to help you but some fiberglass.
I personally HATE bondo and fiberglass.
i love when you can tap down the side of a car and hear metal not plastic .
Somehow i find welding alot more usefull... hell im gonna take a stab at it when i get the fenders off my birdy.
Welding is easy and fun, just takes practice, and the know how on setting the welder.
Its a trunk lid, if i get rear ended I have a GIANT steel bumper thats gonna save much more then a sheet metal lid.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0413080029.jpg)
After the second layer was sanded down
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0413080136.jpg)
third layer on the front
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0413082130.jpg)
third layer on the back
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0413082358.jpg)
third layer sanded on the back
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c384/boss3512/0414080029.jpg)
final product of one side of the back
Coming out good if i say so myself!!
That's looking pretty good, dude
thanks!!
hell ya that looks good. Great work!