How hard is it to change the inner tie rods?I've got a set (and outers),and have actually never had to change them before.I have no problem tearing into it,but I want to have an idea of what I'm getting into.I'm sure the ones on the sport are the originals.The new ones don't have roll pins or set screws.
The only "issue" is getting the old roll-pins out.
Some cars don't come with any pins/screws. My Merkurs for example...no roll-pins or screws to retain the inner tie rods...haven't had one come loose yet.
Vinnie
before you replace,, read my diy link about the "two" variations i found.
First make sure you do not have allen set screws or roll pins. its possible they are located on the other side of the nut since there are two places 180deg out of phase for installing reatiners.
once your sure you dont have retainers and your actual rack shaft isnt moving up and down.... unscrew the inner nut. ITs a ****y looking nut for sure though so get on it the best you can.
Undo the inner and clean it out so you can see up inside there.
VARIATION 1
some of the inners have a disc up inside the knuckle made of metal.
Dead center of the disc will be a provision for an allen wrench.
If so, remove the disc by unscrwing it all the way out.
inspect the knuckle, fill with grease
INstall disc back in the knuckle and adjust it until its snug again.
Variation 2
Some inners have a plastic disc pressed into the knuckle.
dead center of the disc wll be a round hole.
*i never figured out how to get the disc out**
You can regrease by placing your grease gun firmly to the opening.
You can also regrease if you have a needle fitting on your gun.
Next, tap on the disc with a tool that will fit in the knuckle and tap in.
This will seat the disc further in and more snug.
IN all reality, for the platic disc variation, just the act of tightening the knuckle onto the rack will fix any play.
Long story short, both variations give you the ability to maintinance the knuckle. Its not like the outters where,, when they are worn, they are done.
Just thought you would like the good news that you may not need to spend the money.
If ive confussed you,, let me know.
My steering wheel has a LOT of right to left play before the Sport actually wants to turn.The rag joint is fine.The tires are good and the lug nuts are tight.
whats a rag joint?
the joint in the steering linkage about midways down the shaft?
slide the inner boot off and lift up and down on the inner. You will be able to see play in the rack itself there.
its easier to lift the driver front tire and do this so no presure is on the rack while testing.
"Rag joint" is actually a steering coupler.That black hard rubber disc between the rack and the steering shaft.
i changed mine with out a hitch. they are easy. 1st i taped the new inner up in place next to the old one still on the car. then i marked the basic position of the where the outer screws till.[just a help to get the alignment some what close] then i cut the tape and used a chisel to knock the rivet thing up a hair then pulled it with a claw hammer. then i used a large adjustable wrench to take them off [but used a special tool to make sure they were torqued down to the right spec] then installed the new rivet type thing and installed the new boot. i borrowed the special tool from the local parts store.
Before installing the new rack I had the tie rods swapped by a place that does that sort of thing. Didn't cost too much (~$40 IIRC). The nice thing is they have the right tools for the boots and such.
Thanks guys.
If I don't have access to the "special tool",is the job still pretty straight forward?
I just did the inners on my mark a few weeks ago and they weren't bad. I used a chisel and cut the tops off of the rivets. Then I used a wrench and gently worked the tie rod back and forth until what was left of the rivet let go. Don't put too much pressure on the tie rod nut because you can crack the rack housing or bend the pinion.
Thanks a lot.I want as much info as I can get before I tear it up.....I mean tear into it.LOL.