Can anyone tell me exactly what P1 and P2 do? Trying to wire up an 04 mustang ign switch and it only has one "start" circuit which is what these two need. Trying to figure out what they do and if I can connect them both (plus the starter wire) to the one "Start" output... Thanks!
You have ST and I1 hot in start only.
You have P1 and P2 to ground in start only. Used to test the dash light bulbs.
Could the P1 and P2 be changed to hot in start? Depends on where that ground connecton is. Is it internal in the switch or an external connection?
The ground is through the body of the switch. Not possible to change the polarity.
So what exactly so they do? And you're saying that these two ground out in the "start" position?
??
I am thinking since the switch is ganged, it is fords way of making sure that the switch maintains a housing to chassis gnd using P1 and P2 as a MBB, (make before break) switch application.
In the drawing below i did in paint, this is one of my as-built drawings for a project i did in enterprise al. The bypass switch maintains the BYPASS continuity until it reaches the UPS contact. Upon further rotation, bypass is lost and UPS is on line. This is useful as to not lose service and incase you need to remove the UPS system but it is delivering power.,, not a ground. The ups is in a state now as drawn so it can be removed. The normal position of the Bypass switch is in the "UPS" mode so it can discharge upon the sub panel feeds (@6 min) long enough the let the genset come on line when utility is lost.
in this situation, it looks like the ground is forced to have a path to ground using the same idea of a MBB switch.
A relay in your car would be a good example of a BBM switch,(break before make) which is the opposite.
Scott, you have way to much knowledge! :bowdown:
I'm totally lost, so can you tell me this? Is this circuit necessary? What does it do for me? I supposed I could just have it ground at the proper time through the use of a relay... but first I want to know what it does and if I even need it considering the amount of mods to the car...
if i were you , i would ignore the bk/lb wire.
I would focus on the P/W wire and try to locate where it reappears in your EVTM. I am looking at page 42 forward and notice that 3 out of 5 positions of the switch are illustrated as far as wiring goes. I am flipping around seeing if i can see where the p/w wire appears again.
I suggest you do the same.
It may be a ground lead that needs to be maintained that is supplied to some other device as well, although not a critical device likely.
hmm, ok... I'll look into that, but in the meantime, the next one :D
I am trying to find the 12v CONSTANT at the multifunction switch (needed for my 04 mustang multifunc sw). It seems to be the DB/O as seen on the connector in the first image. But I don't get voltage EVER from this wire.
Also, there seem to be an error with the diagram. I KNOW I could flash my high beams whether the key was in or not but according to the second image below, the flash to pass switch only recieved voltage when in start or run...? Either way, why do I get no voltage at the DB/O wire (fuses all good) and how can I get my 12v constant for the mustang switch going in?
bk/org would be a more obvious choice for hot at all times.
Ok, so will I find this under the column? Is it ok to tap into this? Also, am I correct that the flash to pass circuit should have a 12v constant?
the bk/or wire isnt found in the column i dont think. it may be though
another hot at all times wire would be the yellow/light blue for the flash to pass relay contacts as well as the horn .. yes to answer your question.
Brett, where's the pics.
You really know how to dive into a project. LOL
Haha, I know, I suck at getting pics up! I'm the kind of person that never let anyone see (or more often hear) what I was working on until it was done. I'll try to shoot a couple after work.
And Scott, thanks... I'll check that out. Thanks. Hopefully will connect that, left side brake light and pulsed input to the left blinkers (stays lit solid right now) tonight and will drive the car to work gauge-less tomorrow... :hick:
Ok, I hate doing this cause it's such a MESS! But you asked for it. Ignore all the wires still hanging out (alarm, etc). Also, the last pic is my radio bezel in the first coat of primer (will house my 8" 16:9 touchscreen and slim, slot-load, DVD-RW drive. Also, the steering wheel is a work in progress... An expedition wheel which will get new buttons to control cruise, hvac and radio/navigation:
PS: now that I have the shift boots back in place I can really tell the effects of the fatmat I put in a few weeks ago! Even with no back seat, rear insulation or trunk carpet it's already as quite as my buddies 05 GT with flows... :D
And yes, I've been driving it without gauges... is that legal?
So would an MN-12 style T-bird steering wheel possibly work with this setup?
Your still driving it like that?
Are you wiring during lunch now? LOL
It is looking good though.
Ahhahahaha!! Wiring during lunch? That's awesome... I didn't think of that one. I'm taking my DVM to work today. LOL, jk
Yeah, I'm driving it like that; steering wheel 90 degrees off and all. It's such a mess right now but I think within a week it'll be 90% reassembled and good (besides the fact that the cruise, HVAC, and audio buttons still won't work).
Oh, and it looks mesier than it is. There are no wires hanging under the steering column anymore and the passenger kick panel wires are tucked in much better. LOL, oh yeah, and there is a nice vac leak from the HVAC controls being out!
Looking at the pics: did anyone think the steering wheel looked big? Maybe it's that everything is unfinished. It's actually the same diameter as the TC wheel... Also, I got an undeployed airbag for $30 last night... getting closer!
are you on mp3car.com?
I/m very interested in some of the keywords your throwing out here.
had a feeling...that looks realy sweet dude. great work!
thanks, I got more pics coming soon...
Haystack, yes I am. Why??
And now, the 'I'm bored at work question' Does anyone think the first two wires I spoke of in the first post of this thread could have anything to do with my dash illumination circuit acting up (voltage at light switch but not at cluster, hvac and light/foglamp swichtes do not light)? I doubt it because they only create a closed circuit in the start position, but like i said, I'm bored. :D